leaky injector pump

Just noticed a small fuel drip from from the bottom of the rectangular plastic box which attaches to the front of the pump with four screws and has a pigtail which attaches to the harness - (don't know what it's called) - Three of the screws have a torx like recess on the top - they were a bit loose - the fourth on the lower right-hand corner has a head which appears to have a somewhat irregular head which seems to require a special tool. Anyone know where I could find such a tool? Could snugging the screws down evenly solve my leak or is this a main seal problem . .

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=2733762

READ this and check out the photos. This might give you some insight. Good luck.

thanks for the link - looks like it should be do -able . . .

That black box is simply a pass through for the wires going to the quantity adjuster and fuel temp sensor. The problem is that I believe the wires are welded to the board these components are mounted on.

fuel leak THROUGH Wires: Help

Hey, I'm trying to get that black connection box off pump because the fuel is actually leaking through the insulation in those wires leading into the pump and out all the way down at the large electrical connector on front of the motor. What is the repair for that? I also need to replace that green silicone gasket at the black connector on pump(two separate leaks). How can I separate the connector from pump. Like was previously mentioned, it appears the wires are soldered inside pump.

I would certainly try snugging those 4 perimeter bolts on the black electrical penetration first to see what happens. Hopefully you will get lucky and that will take care of the issue for you. As you mentioned there is one of the 4 bolts that has a security head on it that is a challenge to remove. I ended up making a bit for mine to remove it. I was trying as a preventative maintenance item to reseal my connection there when I first bought my TDI. I quickly found that the wires were soldered somehow to the board inside, and quickly got skunked on that PM item. I did however reseal the two main body gaskets, and also the large high pressure head "O" ring since they were leaking.

Unfortunately leaking through the wires themselves would be a death sentance to your IP. I haven't seen any fixes for this issue except for sending the IP to a specialty shop that can perform the needed maintenance. I was hoping they had some type of replaceable seal in the assembly that could easily be replaced, but alass nothing.

I also recently learned of a non curing sealant that is impervious to diesel, and many other chemicals. It is called "hylomar". Pretty amazing stuff. I would use a little smear of this on the backside of the black IP penetration piece you mentioned if you take or have taken it completely off. Keep it from getting inside the IP as best as you can, although it does turn into a clay type consistancy and will stay put very well. Doing this may take care of your issue without having that black piece replaced(as long as it isn't leaking through the wires )

Thanks, Josh. I tightened those bolts and it still leaks on occasion(the green gasket has been hurt). My bigger problem is the leak through the wires. Where can I buy that hylomar stuff? I might try melting/cutting the soldered connection, removing the black connector, and sealing those wires from the inside with that stuff.

rebelgreen said:

Thanks, Josh. I tightened those bolts and it still leaks on occasion(the green gasket has been hurt). My bigger problem is the leak through the wires. Where can I buy that hylomar stuff? I might try melting/cutting the soldered connection, removing the black connector, and sealing those wires from the inside with that stuff.

Click to expand...

Well........... before you try the melting/cutting, go down to NAPA and see if they have any Hylomar. Sometimes they do. Most likely you will need to order it off line unless you have an aviation supply local that has it. I wouldn't go with the Hylomar Blue as it's probably thinner than the standard stuff. Once you have the Hylomar, just cote your "hurt" green gasket with a little bit, and see if that cures the issue. I'm hoping that since it's leaking at that gasket, it's flowing down the black wire chase and just looks like it's leaking through the wires. I am hopeless optimist I guess

BTW, go ahead and source a replacement allen cap screw for that security bolt if you finally get it out-it will help you in the long run in your troubleshooting efforts.




Hey, looks like Grainger also carries it too-may have to be ordered though. Around $18.00 for 85 grams.



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http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=45870

Guys I added the pump exploded diagrams along with the Bosch parts list and part numbers....enjoy.

rebelgreen said:

I might try melting/cutting the soldered connection, removing the black connector, and sealing those wires from the inside with that stuff.

Click to expand...

In a thread I started regarding pump weirdness, member "friech" here on the forums posted this link to a Google English translation of a French post regarding disassembly and cleaning of the QA section:

Injection pump Golf III 1.9 TDI - Accoup acceleration and idling unstable

Definitely not for the squeamish!

Drivbiwire said:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=45870

Guys I added the pump exploded diagrams along with the Bosch parts list and part numbers....enjoy.

Click to expand...

Thanks DrivBi-very helpfull!!




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visionlogic said:

In a thread I started regarding pump weirdness, member "friech" here on the forums posted this link to a Google English translation of a French post regarding disassembly and cleaning of the QA section:

Injection pump Golf III 1.9 TDI - Accoup acceleration and idling unstable

Definitely not for the squeamish!

Click to expand...

WOW....Thats really cool! Never seen those before! That will certainly help the OP to know what he is getting into. Thanks!


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I have a similar article in Polish. I can't seem to find the translation I ran but it was much more understandable than that one. I would like to find the original French one and try a better translator.

One thing that article doesn't seem to mention is positioning the moving parts of the "feedback device" on reassembly. The Polish article mentions taking a before and after measurement of a voltage to get it correct.

I'll have to dig it up if anyone's interested.

KLXD said:

I'll have to dig it up if anyone's interested.

Click to expand...

I, for one, would love to see it.

visionlogic said:

I, for one, would love to see it.

Click to expand...

Me Too

Drivbiwire said:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=45870

Guys I added the pump exploded diagrams along with the Bosch parts list and part numbers....enjoy.

Click to expand...

awesome update to that thread!! ...good info

36hp said:

Just noticed a small fuel drip from from the bottom of the rectangular plastic box which attaches to the front of the pump with four screws and has a pigtail which attaches to the harness - (don't know what it's called) - Three of the screws have a torx like recess on the top - they were a bit loose - the fourth on the lower right-hand corner has a head which appears to have a somewhat irregular head which seems to require a special tool. Anyone know where I could find such a tool? Could snugging the screws down evenly solve my leak or is this a main seal problem . .

Click to expand...

Any updates on this issue?


Also, you might be able to contact DFIS to see if they can get a new IP electrical connector assembly for you so you can solder it in and take care of the issue.



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josh8loop said:

Also, you might be able to contact DFIS to see if they can get a new IP electrical connector assembly for you so you can solder it in and take care of the issue.

Click to expand...

Ditto - call DFIS and see what they've got to say: 503-235-1947

scurvy said:

Ditto - call DFIS and see what they've got to say: 503-235-1947

Click to expand...

Ah hah!! A phone number....Me likes ...

Since I am so curious, I called DFIS myself this afternoon. Really nice folks up there I asked about just getting the replacement black electrical penetration piece, and they told me that piece comes only with a new quantity adjuster. The QA, and the electrical piece around $800.00 and they would still need to be soldered with a micro torch, and high temp solder. He had never heard of one leaking through the wires before, and mentioned that they can get ahold of a new gasket for that piece if needed(does not come in the standard rebuild kit). Could be worth a try I suppose.

Fixed Injection pump leak

I had the black electrical piece off the pump out as far as I could get it without breaking the solder connection and found there are two green gaskets(orings)- one inner and one outer. The solid wires from the QA inside the pump just led to a circuit board on the inside of the black box, no chance for fuel to leak down through the wires that way. The wiring that leads to the big plug at the front of the motor must come off the other side(outside) of this black box.
Bottom line is I was able to stop my fuel leaks by following Josh's advice and coating both gaskets with Hylomar sealant. Somehow fuel was getting around each gasket and one caused a leak down inside the wiring and out the big plug connector and the other caused a leak around the underside of the black box.
Thanks Josh for continuing to follow up and the great advice- it was also good to know you sourced a supplier for those gaskets if someone really needs one. I contacted Dieselgeek for them and got no reply. Those gaskets are hard to come by.

Well,.... that's really good to hear, and I,m glad to be part of the fix!! Nice work. I'm sure this will help others in the future too. That's the first time I have heard of a leak through that area, and I wasn't aware there were two gaskets there-good to know for the future. When I had mine loosened all I could see was one. Does it look like the gasket/O rings can be replaced while the wires are still soldered?

Maybe it can be stretched over the body the way some guys do the head seal.

It can be stretched around the black box by starting at the 10 pin connector sliding up and stretching over the black box.

Picture to follow

courtesy of a smoked QA:



There are two seals in there.

In the above photo you can see the soldered connections (they look like crinkle cut french fries). They were very hard to separate.

I just got off the phone with DFIS, they claim that they are unable to source the seals and are re-using them on rebuilds. When further prodded for size info, he stated that at some point they did attempt to find the sizing info (no help from BOSCH) but efforts were fruitless so ultimately they decided to "let that dog sleep"

bummer.

If I wasn't on vacation right now, I'd put some serious brain power into this.

runonbeer said:

courtesy of a smoked QA:

There are two seals in there.

In the above photo you can see the soldered connections (they look like crinkle cut french fries). They were very hard to separate.

I just got off the phone with DFIS, they claim that they are unable to source the seals and are re-using them on rebuilds. When further prodded for size info, he stated that at some point they did attempt to find the sizing info (no help from BOSCH) but efforts were fruitless so ultimately they decided to "let that dog sleep"

bummer.

If I wasn't on vacation right now, I'd put some serious brain power into this.

Click to expand...

That's a really great shot of that connector and gaskets! Thanks for sharing I probably should have had the guy I spoke with about those seals get some part numbers for me when I was on the phone with him that way he would have realized that they weren't actually available. I agree........Bummer!


Looks like the seals are in recesses that would hold them in place pretty well. I don't necessarily see that there are rubber prongs on the O rings that help hold them in place...RunonBeer, could you confirm this? If they are standard O rings, I'm sure we could find replacements and stuff them in the grooves. Not sure if the O rings would be able to gently stretch over the electrical penetration like mentioned above or not-any thoughts on this? I'm sure viton would be the way to go material wise. If nothing can be found that works, we will have to track the longevity of the "Hylomar" fix I guess.

They appear to be "shaped" seals rather than simple o-rings but I could be wrong. Even if they are shaped, you could get simple o-rings to fit if you got good dimensions off the old seals.

Got to thinking about it more and realized that you'd actually have to pull the pump to get it around the advance solenoid or pull the wires out of the 10 pin connector, which is easy enough.

runonbeer said:

They appear to be "shaped" seals rather than simple o-rings but I could be wrong. Even if they are shaped, you could get simple o-rings to fit if you got good dimensions off the old seals.

Got to thinking about it more and realized that you'd actually have to pull the pump to get it around the advance solenoid or pull the wires out of the 10 pin connector, which is easy enough.

Click to expand...

From your picture it looks as though one could stretch the O ring around the black connector that has the 4 bolts and eventually work it toward the IP electrical harness and then it can be removed. Maybe thats what you meant, but you mentioned something about working it around the advance solenoid and that threw me off. The Smaller O ring would be the most difficult one to get but the larger one would be easier. Removing the wires from the electrical plug in should be a snap. By the way, what would be the odds of you sending me the two seals so I can look/measure/ponder on them? Perhaps I can locate a suitable replacement for them. I also realize you are away and this may be a challenging request- your help is appreciated!

In the seal kit I got there were a couple o-rings that I didn't use. I assumed they were for that block.

Guess not?

KLXD said:

In the seal kit I got there were a couple o-rings that I didn't use. I assumed they were for that block.

Guess not?

Click to expand...

Probably not. They weren't in my kit for sure, and DFIS said they don't have them in there kits, and cannot get them seperately.



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