2005 Passat TDI AC Relay problem (where to find?)

How firm or snug is the relay supposed to fit into the plug? I know this may sound strange, but it took a little bit of a tug to get the original out. I didn't think to try moving the original back n' forth (left and right, if you will), before pulling it out, so I have no point of reference. I just pulled it straight back, gave it a bit of a tug, and it came right out. But when I put the replacement in, it slid in the 1/4" or so that is the length of the metal prongs on the end, but it seemed to move left & right quite a bit after it was installed. I tried giving it an extra push, but no further movement. Seemed it was going in as far as it was going to, but it still had quite a bit of left-to-right play in it. Took it back out, and it required about the same amount of "tug" effort and came right out, so I put it back in again and it still moved quite a bit left-to-right. Everything seemed lined up correctly though, and the "384" was right-side-up just like the original. I started the car, and the AC came on right away. Is this one of those things where it is either installed correctly and the AC works, or if it's not right the AC doesn't work at all? By that, I mean in the opposite, is it possible to sort of half-a$$ install the relay so the AC works for a bit, but you're possibly risking doing more damage and/or blowing this relay a little while down the road? I didn't feel fully comfortable with it after I was finished, but couldn't figure out what more to do.

And BTW, $120 labor is a friggin' joke on that. I could see how it could take someone literally 2-3 minutes to change it out. As for me, I probably spent 4-6 minutes my first time doing it because I wasn't sure it was all the way in and seated correctly. $120 in labor for that!!???? Between that and the light bulb on the HVAC fan switch, I'm in the wrong line of b'iness.

My AC was intermittent so I searched the forums for a solutions and found this thread. It was a five minute job to pull the relay and solder the relay joint inside. Thanks TDI CLUB!

Mikey_TDI said:

My AC was intermittent so I searched the forums for a solutions and found this thread. It was a five minute job to pull the relay and solder the relay joint inside. Thanks TDI CLUB!

Click to expand...

I'm over in Safety Harbor (at least for the next couple months). I'm always on the lookout for other Passat TDIs - I like to give people a link to this forum and educate them on the possible issues they will be facing. If I can save one person from spending $200 on an AC relay repair I will be happy.

Mikey_TDI said:

My AC was intermittent so I searched the forums for a solutions and found this thread. It was a five minute job to pull the relay and solder the relay joint inside. Thanks TDI CLUB!

Click to expand...

Same here, just now...

Similar AC Problem

Wife's 2005 Passat is having A/C problems with a slight variation - blower fan will not come on except at the highest setting. When A/C is selected the electric radiator fans come on but not the blower. When blower fan is selected to highest setting fan comes on full bore but electric radiator fans cut off. A/C compressor never does engage. Checked all fuses - they are fine. Pulled Relay 384 and resoldered what appeared to be cold solder joints and reinstalled. Still no help! Any ideas from the gurus????

How does the "blower fan" work in non-AC mode? Does it operate at all speeds or only at the hightest setting? If yes, then the resistor pack for the fan, or the switch, is defective. Has the AC charge ever been checked?

Blower fan will work only at highest setting in both AC and non-AC mode. Entire system was working fine until blower fan quit working at lowest 3 settings. AC charge has not been checked - I suspect switch itself has gone bad and will check that in the morning - thanks MOGolf for the ideas.

I currently have the same problem, along with the passenger side brake light not working when the pedal is depressed (all bulbs are good). Hopefully, the dealer will address both under my extended warranty. Fingers crossed.

You guys saved me some time.

I'm having this problem for the second time.

Still have some time on the extended warranty. I'll see if they cover it. If not, I'll swap it myself.

Second relay in less than 18 months was covered by my extended warranty (among other problems). I had fewer problems with every other car I have owned except a Land Rover.

Thanks Guys for all the information and "Tampapassat" for posting up the pictures of your relay. I had the same problem on my 04 Passat TDI.

I thought it may have been my expansion valve, they call it a Restrictor in the VW parts book and there are 2 of them.

After doing some troubleshooting and reading over this thread.
I was able to pull the relay, solder, and reinstall the relay in a few minutes.


A/C is working fine now. No more intermitent problems.

Thanks Again

Sven

I replaced my relay and the new one lasted about a week.

So I'm thinking of fixing the old one. Is there an electrically conductive, thermally stable glue that would work in this application? I'm ok spending $50 on a new relay, but it seems like the root cause is the heat this thing throws off, and the expansion of the circuit. So a repair might be more effective long term if there is a magic glue that can expand and not break the circuit, or not expand at all.

Any electrical engineers in the house? (I'm calling the nasa lab next...but start here first!)

Thanks for all the help! 125k and counting!

I just used plain oid solder a few months ago, no issues.
You can't afford the NASA solution...

Thanks for all the posts on the A/C inhibit relay. I have found through some research that the Gas Engine Jettas and Passats don't suffer the relay failure nearly as frequently as TDIs so I would surmise that diesel engine vibration is probably a contributor. The new environmentally friendly "lead Free" solder also as it is a lot more brittle than the old poisonous (lol) lead stuff. I have attached some photos to help folks who are new to the DIY game.


Here is where to find the suspect inhibitor relay



This is the culprit



Notice the blistering around the solder joint at the PC board. A sign that this problem was intermittent for a time



This is after the suspect cold solder joints were re soldered with good old fashioned 50 / 50 rosin cored lead solder.

Vehicle in question is a 2005 Passat TDI and has passed this entire summer without any re-occurrence.

Thats good looking solder work, I'm not sure i could pull that off so Im looking for an alternative to an iron. the rocket scientists must have something for repairs I doubt you can solder in space.

This site comes through again. I think that 75% of the reason buying this car was a good choice is this site. Repairs are so easy with the help we get here. My car just started having this intermittent problem with the A/C re soldering that relay was a breeze. I would have had no idea where to start looking for that problem. Oilhammer is exactly right about Honda/Acura with the main fuse, I had that same exact thing, re solder the circuit board inside and good as new. Recently I also had a 25 year old Crasftman battery charger go out, took the cover off re solder the circuit board and it's working fine now. Thanks for the helpful posts.

I am having a similar issue with the AC. I hear the relay kick in for a second then click again. The A/C today stopped working for the most part, but I found if I rev the engine or downshift for a second to rev the engine, I hear the relay click and then it works for a while then cuts back out. But on my way to work today, it wouldn't work at all no matter what I did, bringing it to the Dealer to take a look on Monday as I have the extended warranty. Also going onto my 3rd Cluster. The first 2 the Info Display started glitching, and now the 3rd is starting to get dim around the corners. I never had any issues with the electrical of the car until 2 months ago when the dealer replaced the Heater Core, and when I picked it up I got a error light on, brought it back and they said the ESP button was bad, seat belt switch, brake light switch and others needed replacement that it was "coincidence" to the heater core, and now I have a Airbag Fault that came on the other day. grrrr. Dealer grrrr

I HAD the same issues with intermittent AC. Removed the solenoid, soldered the relay points on the board. AC is good as new, all complete in about 15 minutes. Thank you TDI Club!

If you don't want to take the panel off, you can reach in through the opening above the fuses on the left. You just need a good flashlight.

thumbdoctor said:

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FIXED this weekend. Easy easy easy. Mine looked exactly like that posted in post #34.

My soldering skills were a bit rusty, and the job I did was not very attractive, but it worked great.

I did use a hot solder iron, and 60/40 solder. I accidentally touched another solder and had to fix that one too.

Also to the last poster... it is easy to take that panel off. Don't sweat it.

2 screws on the fuse side, and one on each side of the steering column.

I found this after paying the dealer $172 to fix my o4 Passat relay. I fixed my sisters Passat today in about 15 minutes start to finish re-soldering the relay. Thanks guys.

Yippee, got my AC fixed thanks to all.

LongRifle said:

Also to the last poster... it is easy to take that panel off. Don't sweat it.

2 screws on the fuse side, and one on each side of the steering column.

Click to expand...

Don't even bother removing the panel. Just study the picture to know where the relays are and reach right through the side opening and pull it out.

Wahoo!!! Icy cold A/C again! I thought I was gonna short circuit my heated seats last summer with all the sweating I did last summer! Thank you!

owr084 said:

Don't even bother removing the panel. Just study the picture to know where the relays are and reach right through the side opening and pull it out.

Click to expand...

That's how I've done it the last 3 times I've replaced it. Cut the back of my hand one time on a little bit of sharp metal, but still beats taking everything apart.

The job is not done until some blood has been let...

Time to jump on the bandwagon. Last year, paid about $175 to have the relay replaced. After reading this -- 15 minute fix (and that included finding the tools). Thanks to all -- and special thanks to those of you that are willing to share your detailed knowledge & experience. Now I need to budget for going chainless.

i need to do this, but i'm almost embarrassed to say, i've never soldered electronics. i've soldered loads of plumbing - but that seems like it's a different animal.

i just watched this video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5dG0fwE7TC4 - and i'm sure i can do this, but ...
for this repair, should i get a solder sucker to remove the old solder or should i just heat the joint and add a little solder?

I first reflowed the old solder and added a bit where needed. See post 75 for the pictures. And you will have to get a wimpy 25W or so pencil soldering iron. That torch you probably use for plumbing is a bit on the overkill / imprecise side of things.