1997 TDI Passat with 150,000 miles

Hello all,

I am in the market for a TDI Passat, so I came across a 1997 model Passat TDI. I am having reservations about it because of the high miles (150,000).

My friend has a 1984 Jetta diesel that has 272,000 miles on it. He tells me that this car should last me at least another 100,000 miles. As far as I know the previous owner took good care of this vehicle. (changed belts every 60,000 miles, oil, brakes...)

Are these engines really that good? Do they last that long often or is my friend's car a special case?

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

IMHO ...If Your serious about buying the car...and it looks & drives good...What I would do is to pay the $50 bucks at a VW dealership and have them do a compression & leakdown test.
If the numbers look good on the test...and you are satisified with the rerst of the car....then yes..I'd buy it.

The car is for sale at a dealer. The salesman just got the car in on a trade.

Do you think they will be honest if I ask them to do the tests? Or should I ask them to allow me to go to another dealership?

Thanks.

I'd strongly urge you to use a 3rd party to do the compression test....this just leaves out temptation...

Using a third party is crucial. If the dealership isn't willing to allow you to do that, then don't bother with the car. My dad years ago was looking at a used 1989 Audi 100 from a Toronto dealer, and took it to an independent to have a look at the car, and found a serious problem with the engine, as it was leaking oil from somewhere (don't know details). My dad took it back to the dealer, and they raised a whole fuss, and asked what stupid place did he go to, etc. Just be very careful when purchasing a used car and never trust what the dealer has to say. If all is well, then go for it. It's a beautiful car and should last many more miles!

Cyman 73 Take it to Pete Baranko....Drivbiwire in Hammond IN. ( I think he's one the East Coast this weekend doing Timing Belts) He can check the car over for ya!
Plus he can fix anything faster than the dealer!

I just spoke with the dealer about the car. He told me that the car checked out and everything was A OK. I told him that I was interested in doing a compression test on this vehicle. He told me that they hooked the car to the computer and that the computer would have told them if there was anything wrong with the vehicle. Does that sound right? I guess maybe the emissions would not be right if compression was bad.

So it looks like I might not have a chance to do a compression test.

The salesman also told me that the mechanics get paid for what they find wrong with a vehicle and that it is in their interest to fix any problems. But they did not find anything.

Thanks.

The ECU will not tell you anything about the state of the cylinders, rings or valve, Pete has a compression tester. THis is the only way to have any idea of what shape they are in , except for driving it a month and looking at oil consumption and fuel consumption, chances are it's fine, the intake will probably need cleaning.

I purchased my 96 Passat one year ago with 151,000 miles. I have put over 40,000 miles on in the past year. I hope to keep the car for 5 or 6 more years.

Tell the dealer if you cannot get the car checked out then no sale.

Pete does every good work. I drive from Ohio to have work on my car.

Tell the dealer, "That's fine, but I still want to do my own INDEPENDANT test on the car." If they still won't let that happen then its obvious they have something to hide. Remember not to let emotions get in the way of buying a quality vehicle.

How can I get a hold of Pete?

How can I check to see if the intake needs cleaning and what does the cleaning entail? Does the intake need to be removed or are there some chemicals that will do the trick?

Thanks.

Originally posted by cyman73:
He told me that they hooked the car to the computer and that the computer would have told them if there was anything wrong with the vehicle.

Click to expand...

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">This tells us beyond a doubt that the salesman in question is a lying weasel, as it is a demonstrably wrong statement.

But then I suppose that they all are.

Get it checked elsewhere.

Pete was in New Hampshire this past weekend He did 5-6 timing belts over a 3 day period and some tuning and dynoed his car also and he is on his way back as we speak.
I will e-mail you his cell number

Hi cyman73, If you end up having Pete check this car out for you, be sure to have him or someone experienced check for previous paint and body work along with any possible frame damage. Later!

Originally posted by cyman73:
I am in the market for a TDI Passat, so I came across a 1997 model Passat TDI. I am having reservations about it because of the high miles (150,000).

Click to expand...

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">150000 miles is not high mileage (even for gasoline powered cars), if proper maintenance is done. I know someone with >500000 miles on a car that isn't even a diesel.

However, many used cars have not been properly maintained; 100000 miles of poor or nonexistent maintenance usually results in a poorly running and unreliable car. Many of the people who do take good care of their cars just drive them "forever", so they may not be as commonly found on the used car market.

Much more important than odometer mileage is the previous maintenance history and the actual condition of the car. In the latter case, a mechanic's inspection may be called for.

just take the hose off that goes into the intake. you need water pump pliers a big phillips screwdriver and a flashlight and a mirror. look deep inside they might have cleaned the easystuff without removal.

Thank you all for your advice/imput.

I purchased the car yesterday and I had it checked out at Dupage Auto Werks in West Chicago prior to buying it.

The diagnosis is a dirty intake with two engine codes set in ECU-00553 & 00575. I was told that the intake cleaning will hopefully eliminate those codes and increase engine power. I know that one of the codes refers to the MAF sensor (I don't know which one) and I was told what the other one is but I don't remember. Can anyone explain? I don't dare second guess the guys at Dupage Auto Werks, but does this sound right?

The car drives just fine and I am able to get up to speed 70-75 mph(its relative), I just don't try to pass anyone.

Thanks.

If you're having issues getting past 70-75, you definitely need to clean the MAF and see Drivebywire. My Passat will go to 110 with ease (not that I recommend doing so).

Also, you must chip the car (UPsolute). The difference is significant. It'll be the best ~$350 you'll ever spend.

00575

Manifold Absolute Pressure






Control difference
ON
Wastegate bypass regulator valve -N75- faulty
Hose connections interchanged or not connected
Reduced output
- Check -N75- page 01-46 ; Output Diagnostic Test Mode (DTM).

00553

Mass Air Flow Sensor-G70






Incorrect signal
ON
Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor -G70- faulty
Reduced power output
Black exhaust
- Check function of EGR and Mass Air Flow sensor -G70- page 23-87 .


Open/short circuit to Ground
ON
Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor -G70- faulty
Wiring: open circuit or short to Ground


Short circuit to B+
ON
Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor -G70- faulty
Wiring: open circuit or short to positive


Voltage Supply
ON
Wiring: open / short circuit

Give me a call today. The compression check is pretty straight forward and only takes about 20 minutes to do. If the N75 is faulty this does not surprise me and most of the cars with 100K+ seem to need them replaced at this point. Regarding the MAF if the MAF is actually bad that is unusual. The first MAF I saw like this that failed was coated in oil at the Dyno GTG this past weekend. A car dealer brought the car over to the Dyno runs because their techs could not figure out what was wrong (using a Snap-On OBD unit), after about a 20 second drive and a quick hook up to the Vag-Com we diagnosed it as a faulty MAF.

A new N75 is about $60.00 from the dealer, as for the MAF I have a spare we can try and we can try and flush the original with some denatured alcohol.

DB
(219) 902-4137

[ June 13, 2002, 05:38: Message edited by: Drivbiwire ]