Inner CV Joint Rebuild/Replacement Procedure

jokila · Mar 26, 2018

Mongler98 said:
Make sure you put some blue locktight on that new or used axle nut and make sure its to at least 200ftlb
2 years ago i found out that the manufacturer of those nuts had a recal, i got a reman axle for some spare parts from autozone and the nut stripped when i took it off a year later, tried to find a nut but EVERY ONE other than ebay and some stores like IDparts and GAP had out of stock as they were recalled or so i was told. Simple solution, blue locktight, it has fixed my issues of new nuts still coming loss.
I now use RED locktight on it and to take it off, you get some heat on it!

No. You don't need loctite for this nut, but it better be a brand new one. And...200 ft lbs is over torqued, it is 200nm!

You should pull the axle fully into the hub, and snug up the nut (or bolt) before starting the torque sequence. There is a procedure to tighten the nut and it's not just the torque. The printed Bentley shows this:

Car on ground.

If using a 12-point nut for drive axle to wheel hub
-- lubricate nut and axle threads with oil.
-- 200 Nm (148 ft-lb)
-- loosen 1/2 turn (180*)
-- turn wheel 1/2 turn (180*) roll car back or forward.
-- then tighten to 50 Nm (37 ft-lb) plus 1/6 turn (60*)

If using Hex (6 pt) bolt for drive axle to wheel hub
-- install dry, no lube.
-- 250 Nm (184 ft-lb) plus 1/4 turn (90*)
-- loosen 1/2 turn (180*)
-- turn wheel 1/2 turn (180*) roll car back or forward.
-- 50 Nm (37 ft-Ib) plus 1/6 turn (60°)

Mongler98 · Mar 26, 2018

Ok, my bad, i miss read, i though it was an MK3. my mistake, yea ignore me lol

jokila · Mar 26, 2018

STDOUBT said:
Thank you kurtzl
Best walk through I've found (and it's 2018 now). I think I can actually tackle this. Thanks to TDICLUB and vendors like idparts and also not least of all gearheadgarage.us
for the affordable DIY garage with LIFTS!!!

I'm just wondering if CV Boot Crimp Pliers should be added to the OP tool list.
edit: recommend something to clean out the old grease?
Brake Cleaner maybe?

The crimp tool is only need for the outer joints.

Powder Hound · Mar 29, 2018

For a MkIV, it is nearly impossible for us mere mortals to over-torque the axle nut. You just need to take a look at the inner race of the wheel bearing to see why. It is very well constructed of a very good alloy.

I have stood on the end of a 24" breaker bar tightening one of those. That was well over 200 ft-lbs. And the assembly on that hub is still going strong.

Cheers,

PH

blis · Mar 29, 2018

Dirtiest job I've ever had to do and those spline bolts are pure evil. A good set of replacement hex bolts makes it a much easier job.

Powder Hound · Mar 30, 2018

That depends on whether you have a proper set of xzn (aka triple square) bits or not. Also whether you have proper replacement bolts. With the correct drive xzn drive bits, you'll have no problems with the OEM bolts.

Cheers,

PH

NWTTDI · Aug 15, 2019

Need to replace the left inner CV boot on my 2002 Jetta. Can anyone confirm that I don't need to disconnect the A arm or ball joint (as mentioned in post #19 of this thread)? Trying to avoid the requirement to have the front end aligned after the repair.

jokila · Aug 15, 2019

NWTTDI said:
Need to replace the left inner CV boot on my 2002 Jetta. Can anyone confirm that I don't need to disconnect the A arm or ball joint (as mentioned in post #19 of this thread)? Trying to avoid the requirement to have the front end aligned after the repair.

You won't need to get an alignment if you scribe the ball joint position to the control arm with a sharp tool. To me it is too tight to work in there without taking it out. I don't like to get frustrated with grease and dirt dropping on me. The driver side is the easiest axle to remove.

I have never had an alignment in over 446K miles that I have driven on my Jetta. Tires wear smoothly. It's had the axles out twice for CV joint service and I have replaced the struts, control arm, and ball joint once on each side.

Pro tip: Use a screw driver through the rotor disc to keep the axle from turning. It will butt up against the caliper when you go to loosen the axle nut.

hey_allen · Aug 15, 2019

For whatever it's worth, I was able to drop my left drive shaft without disconnecting the lower ball joint.
I dropped the sway bar end link, unbolted the axle bolt in the hub, and the inner joint bolts. Lifting the inner joint up and to the rear allowed enough space to slip the splined outer part free of the hub.

NWTTDI · Aug 15, 2019

jokila, I can't picture what you are talking about regarding the screw driver through the rotor disc. Could you please explain it another way or do you have a pic by chance?

hollowhead · Aug 15, 2019

I think he means to stick a screwdriver in the slot between the inner and outer parts of the roster (where the brake pads squeeze).as it rotates the screwdriver will stop movement when it hits the caliper. But I’m good at being wrong!

NWTTDI · Aug 15, 2019

OK, so put the screw driver in from the bottom of the brake rotor so that when the rotor rotates counter-clockwise the screw driver will butt up against the caliper. Do I have it right?

jokila · Aug 15, 2019

Correct on the process.

Stab the screwdriver in the middle of the rotor disc to the right side of the caliper. It will keep the axle from turning when you are loosening the nut because the caliper stops the movement. No need for an assistant to press on the brakes, etc.

NWTTDI · Aug 15, 2019

To keep the axle from moving, couldn't you just break the axle nut free while the wheel is on the ground?

Giberish33 · Aug 16, 2019

rallywagon said:
Just trying to save time....

Does anyone know if I could unbolt the longer, right axle from the flange at the transmission and disassemble/repack the inner joint and replace the boot WITHOUT taking the axle out of the wheel hub?

I realize, I would be working under the car, but with ramps and jack stands, I think I could live with it. But, I am not sure if the axle would unbolt and drop down/over enough for access?

I have just been too busy to climb under and investigate this option myself. I can remove the axle if that will be easier...I just did the wheel bearing a couple of months ago.

Thanks for any input!

Scott (98 Jetta AHU 5 spd)

Not sure if there is enough room but you can unbolt the top bolt from the knuckle to the shock and have the hub rotate towards you to give some room to pull the shaft out of the hub. PLEASE LEARN FROM MY MISTAKE DO NOT WORK ON THE CV JOINTS WHILE STILL ATTACHED TO THE CAR.

Sorry for all caps but really important one here. I made this mistake during last winter trying to save some time doing the outer cv joint with the inner still attached to the trans and while hammering the outer joint off, damaged the inner cv joint race and when I went to drive the car out of the garage I grenade the diver side inner cv joint race. Had to have the car towed to a mechanic to do all 3 remaining cv joints.

Spend the extra half hour to unbolt the axles and work on the cv joints out of the car!

Powder Hound · Aug 16, 2019

NWTTDI said:
To keep the axle from moving, couldn't you just break the axle nut free while the wheel is on the ground?

Sure you could. You also might warp the wheel bearing by having weight on it when you loosen the axle. Think about the instructions on ensuring the nut is tight before putting weight on the wheel. That axle nut works with the outer CV joint to use the axle stub to hold that outer wheel bearing together.

I loosen the lugs slightly, then jack it up, remove the wheel, replace the lug bolts, insert the big screwdriver into one of the rotor vents, then put the giant* socket on the end of a giant* breaker bar and with a bunch of torque supplied by a foot on the end of the bar, the axle nut comes loose.

Then, when it comes time to assemble the end of the axle through the bearing carrier (aka steering knuckle, or sometimes the upright) just reverse the above.

It is even more fun when you're doing a wheel bearing.

Cheers,

PH

*giant - meaning 3/4" drive. It was a PIA trying to find the socket, but it works better than the 1/2" drive stuff for a fat old guy like myself.

NWTTDI · Aug 16, 2019

OK, screw driver it is. Thanks for the tips guys

NWTTDI · Sep 23, 2019

Finally got around to doing this. I was able to remove the OEM driver's side CV axle but just removing the axle nut and the 6 bolts that hold the inner end to the trani. My replacement axle has some kind of ?balancer? on it and required the removal of the sway bar linkage to get it installed. The old axle is 22mm inn diameter and the new one is 28mm.

I did as suggested and used a screwdriver to stop the brake disc/axle from rotating when removing the axle nut but in my manual it says to always loosen and tighten the axle nut with the weight of the car on the wheel. I tightened again with the screwdriver but it seems pointless as the torque procedure requires that it be done with the wheel on and the car on the ground........tighten axle nut to 200NM, loosen axle nut 1/2 turn, roll the car to get the wheel to make 1/2 turn and then retighten.

I tried to post a picture of the new axle but even after reading the FAQ I couldn't figure it out

Can't find the "pictures and albums link" that is suppose to be in the user CP. Any suggestions?

[/url][/IMG]

BobnOH · Sep 23, 2019

Short version:
Log in again at pics.tdiclub.com
Select Upload button, follow prompts (check your file type)
At the end, harvest the url to use as a link for your post
Note there are 3 sizes with separate urls. For large data use the thumbnail, it shows the full size when clicked.
More complete instructions in my signature.

NWTTDI · Sep 23, 2019

Thank you Bob!

jokila · Sep 24, 2019

NWTTDI said:
Finally got around to doing this. I was able to remove the OEM driver's side CV axle but just removing the axle nut and the 6 bolts that hold the inner end to the trani. My replacement axle has some kind of ?balancer? on it and required the removal of the sway bar linkage to get it installed. The old axle is 22mm inn diameter and the new one is 28mm.

I did as suggested and used a screwdriver to stop the brake disc/axle from rotating when removing the axle nut but in my manual it says to always loosen and tighten the axle nut with the weight of the car on the wheel. I tightened again with the screwdriver but it seems pointless as the torque procedure requires that it be done with the wheel on and the car on the ground........tighten axle nut to 200NM, loosen axle nut 1/2 turn, roll the car to get the wheel to make 1/2 turn and then retighten.

I tried to post a picture of the new axle but even after reading the FAQ I couldn't figure it out Can't find the "pictures and albums link" that is suppose to be in the user CP. Any suggestions?

[/url][/IMG]

You are using the screwdriver to hold the axle from turning whilst loosening and removing the axle nut. You also can loosen (but not remove yet) while the weight of the car is on the ground before removing the tire. Doesn't matter.

When you go to install the axle nut before final assembly of the tire, you can use the screwdriver method to help you snug the nut enough to keep it in place while you then put the car back on the ground to follow the VW torque procedure. What you don't want to do is allow the weight of the car to rest on the tire with no axle nut in place because you will break the wheel bearing.

It's a little late, but rebuilding the OEM axle is way better than most other solutions, especially chinesium axles from the local parts store, no matter if you bought the highest quality standard that is sold. It's not hard to do even if it looks like it would be.

NWTTDI · Sep 24, 2019

jokila, thank you for the clarification.

I bought a boot kit and it is my plan to rebuild the OEM axle but I don't have access to a garage and need to have the car ready for a trip. Hopefully the replacement axle holds in there.

When I removed the OEM axle I wasn't careful enough (first time doing this) and five of the 6 balls fell out. Previously in this thread it was mentioned that hub and housing races need to remain paired. Do the balls also have to be in their original position? Hopefully not

jokila · Sep 25, 2019

NWTTDI said:
jokila, thank you for the clarification.
I bought a boot kit and it is my plan to rebuild the OEM axle but I don't have access to a garage and need to have the car ready for a trip. Hopefully the replacement axle holds in there.
When I removed the OEM axle I wasn't careful enough (first time doing this) and five of the 6 balls fell out. Previously in this thread it was mentioned that hub and housing races need to remain paired. Do the balls also have to be in their original position? Hopefully not

While it's always better to put anything back to its original status, as long as the balls are not damaged in any way you should be fine. If the hub has any wear, you would want to replace the whole thing. They are not expensive from IDParts.

You don't need a garage to do the work. Just a bench and some tools. There is nothing in the axle that you cannot do with common tools, well maybe a band crimper is not as common, but you don't need a press. I did it all without a vice too.

NWTTDI · Sep 25, 2019

The lack of a garage is an issue because we are already seeing temps below freezing............I need to move to Texas

I did buy a band crimper.

jokila · Sep 27, 2019

NWTTDI said:
The lack of a garage is an issue because we are already seeing temps below freezing............I need to move to Texas I did buy a band crimper.

Well that is something.

The crimper is only needed for the outer joints.

Genesis · Oct 9, 2021

I know this is an old thread but..... how do you get the new circlip back on?

My snap-ring pliers were sufficient to get the old one OFF, but are worthless in getting the new one on as there are no holes into which the nubs engage.

hey_allen · Oct 9, 2021

For rings that go around a shaft and have only pointy ends, this is the style that I've used:

Amazon.com

They have knurled flat jaws to catch the ends of the ring and allow you to spread it.

Smokin' Dually · Mar 5, 2023

Powder Hound said:
One other comment: usually the reason you'd be doing this is that the CV joint will have pits on one side (the driving side of the housing, driven side of the hub) of the races. Check the balls. If the balls are OK, you can clean the joint and balls, reassemble, and install it on the other half-shaft. Then do the same thing to the other side. By swapping sides, it is like getting double service from each CV joint.

Powder Hound (or anyone else), have you done this side-to-side joint swap? I'm in a situation where this could be viable for me, saving a bit of money (but not necessarily time).

norbert77 · Feb 23, 2024

Found this while looking for info to replace all 4 rubber boots. Thanks! Did you guys reuse the 6 bolts?

Prairieview · Feb 24, 2024

I have for over 30 years if they are in good shape. Otherwise, buy some new ones.

Inner CV Joint Rebuild/Replacement Procedure

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