Found my clattering noise & manual trans swap

Jake Brake · Nov 12, 2015

My flex plate rivets were coming loose and making one heck of a noise!

Getting ready to do my swap over after fixing the tandem pump leak and changing the coolant pipe flange. The tandem pump was leaking really bad. So bad, I can't tell if the oil pan is leaking or in the path of the tandem pump leak. I may pull the pan too, just to rule that out.

My new transaxle is supposed to be in on tuesday

Windex · Nov 12, 2015

If you're pulling the pan, might as well do the BSM delete at the same time

Jake Brake · Nov 12, 2015

Thanks for bringing that up Windex, I already did the BSM. Good to bring up for the new guys here with B5.5's. There was so much oil from the leak, I just wanted to rule out any other possible leak. I did the BSM around a year ago.

I had to do some major degreasing before I strated work on it.

I pulled the subframe all the way out and have really good access to everything. It gave me a lot more room to get to the bellhousing bolts and to drop the oil pan.

Windex · Nov 12, 2015

Not a bad idea to change out the rear main as well while you are in there.

Jake Brake · Nov 12, 2015

will do

Jake Brake · Nov 13, 2015

I pulled the coolant flange under the tandem pump and was taking the bolts out of the tandem pump. I did not have any of it's diesel fuel hoses pulled and they are still dry from what I can see.

I ended up with a trace amount of diesel fuel on my hand from somewhere. Is this normal or do I possibly have a bad tandem pump? I am doing most my work from under the car with trans pulled.

Jake Brake · Nov 14, 2015

Ok duh, I should have caught that, lol. The only manual I have is the useless Autozone All Data one. It is by far the worst manual I have ever used.

Jake Brake · Nov 16, 2015

I am starting to get excited about my project! I got my transaxle and flywheel with clutch today. Still waiting on a few parts, but that gives me time to finish getting it ready. I got the rest of my parts in the next day.

I got the tandem pump and coolant flange back on and still have the oil pan to reseal and console to take out.

This is about as big of a project that I can do anymore do to some health problems I have. I used to do projects this big and bigger and not think a thing about it. Thanks goodness for my daughter's boy friend who has been assisting me.

Jake Brake · Nov 19, 2015

Ok, making a little headway.
I have the rear seal replaced and oilpan resealed.

I also took the console out and removed the auto shifter.

I also mounted the flywheel.

I need the pilot shaft bearing to do much more.

I guess I could mount the new clutch pedal assembly. Do I need to take the brake booster off to get the clutch line in?

Windex · Nov 19, 2015

No, you can lift it slightly and squeak the line in without totally removing the booster.

post 113 in this thread:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=378108&page=2

Jake Brake · Nov 19, 2015

Thanks again Windex!

zzdiesel · Nov 19, 2015

With the booster loosened it is also easier to add the clutch pedal if not changing the whole unit.

Jake Brake · Nov 19, 2015

Thanks for the tip!

Jake Brake · Nov 25, 2015

The clutch hoses were a pain, but I got them. I have my new pedals in too.

Does anyone have a good picture of the clutch pedal spring installed?
I put it in but it doesn't seem to work right that way.

My grandma has been very sick and passed away. We have been checking in and helping the family sit and watch over her. She was 96.

This has slowed me down on my project but at least I got to spend some time with her before she passed. When my dad passed it was very sudden and I was away on a trip with my tractor trailer.

Jake Brake · Nov 28, 2015

Ok, got my shifter in and clutch bled with my mityvac, installed the throw out bearing and fork and the brake booster tightened back down.

put the trans on the atv jack and went up, but found when the old trans came out. it must have tilted the engine nose down. So I think I will borrow my brother's cherry picker to get the right tilt, so things will line up.

I used a jack with a 4x4 on it and lifted by the oil pan. I leveled it up and it slid right in with a little wiggling and pulling. Will get back to it tomorrow night.

ShaneShelley234 · Nov 30, 2015

The clutch spring will seem funny until clutch is bled. Then will work as it should.

Jake Brake · Nov 30, 2015

Today I finished bolting up the bell housing bolts, put the starter in, have the axles in and hooked up the slave cylinder.

I bet that starter is a bear to pull with the subframe in place!

I still have the shifter stay and linkage to do and then I will be ready for the subframe. I will get back on it tomorrow.

Jake Brake · Nov 30, 2015

thanks for the tip QuickTD!

I finally feel like I am getting some where on this project.

Jake Brake · Dec 1, 2015

I changed the transaxle oil, hooked up the shifter stay and shift linkage and cleaned up the subframe. I also rewired it for the back up light.

After supper I am going to try to get the subframe back up if my helper isn't busy.

Subframe is up, checked out the clutch and it seems like vI got all the air out of the system.

Jake Brake · Dec 2, 2015

Question: the round transaxle plug with I think 15 pins, does this get used and if not can it be unplugged from the harness?

Jake Brake · Dec 2, 2015

Thanks QuickTD! I was going to go out and trace where it goes. I guess I will tie it back for now and cut it loose from the harness later.

Going back out to the garage to tinker for a bit.

Jake Brake · Dec 2, 2015

Ok, all I have left is wiring the clutch switch and put the console and lower dash in. I also have to put the front wheels on and get it down off the jack stands. also need to take out the tcm

I am hoping for a test drive tomorrow!

I will drive it before I do the console and lower dash.

Jake Brake · Dec 3, 2015

I got it moving under it's own power. I had to order a wiring plug for the clutch switch, so for now I have it bypassed with a jumper.

I will take it out for a proper test drive tomorrow.

I took it out for a drive today and I am very pleased!

Everything is good to go except wiring the two clutch switches

Jake Brake · Dec 6, 2015

Is there any trick to popping loose the cowl panel under the wipers?

I have to pull the wiper arms, but was wondering if I will have to carefully pry the panel up.

I have about 170miles on my car with the manual trans and I am really enjoying it!

I have an EEN transaxle and like the gearing!
I had it on the interstate and the gearing could be a bit taller in high gear, but still not bad.

I still need to get my computer flashed.

I repinned wire 59 to wire 43 on the large ECM connector and cut loose the same gray wire at the throttle. I hope to install the cruise switch followed by the interlock switch.

Found my clattering noise & manual trans swap

Veteran Member

Top Post Dawg

Veteran Member

Top Post Dawg

Veteran Member

Veteran Member

Veteran Member

Veteran Member

Veteran Member

Top Post Dawg

Veteran Member

Veteran Member

Veteran Member

Veteran Member

Veteran Member

Veteran Member

Veteran Member

Veteran Member

Veteran Member

Veteran Member

Veteran Member

Veteran Member

Veteran Member

Veteran Member