Transmission Removal Procedure

Oilhammer, good post [11-16-2011] on B5 trans removal. I've not removed a major auto component before. (If I do it myself, a racing neighbor would be helping me in his garage. It is for part out sale trans. )
Do I need more step-by-step detail? (Engine already out for other reasons.)
Is there a list of required tools?
Other I need to know, such as including instr cluster?

minipsd said:

Oilhammer thank you for the quick reply, I found the axle removal procedure and it looks like I can use the procedure in the BSM replacement pdf to lower the subframe. Regarding the side brackets, are you referring to the transmisson side brackets that connect to the subframe?

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Oilhammer or minipsd.....where did you see those axel removal procedures you referred to in Trans removal thread of 11-16-2011? We are taking out a GMR, (no engine to worry about). Am I right that what you wrote pertains to a GMR, because you also mentioned BSM. (I am not replacing another trans, but parting out.)

Other things I need to know, such as removing an instr cluster? The buyer has not mentioned this, but how difficult is that to include in disassembly?

I just got through pulling my trans and I found it a lot easier access to things with the subframe completely removed. If your friend has a trans jack or an atv jack it will make your job much easier.

Jake Brake said:

I just got through pulling my trans and I found it a lot easier access to things with the subframe completely removed. If your friend has a trans jack or an atv jack it will make your job much easier.

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Can you elaborate on what you did? in other words, when you dropped the sub-frame, you dropped it with motor/trans/axles/struts everything and rolled it away from the body?

I just dropped the subframe and rolled an ATV jack under the transaxle and just took it out. I could have left it, but had more room and didn't have to take the transaxles brackets off and had a lot of room to work with it out of the way. I pulled the axles. you have to pull the starter to get to the torque converter bolts. Be sure to support your engine well before getting started.

While you are under there would be a good time to fix any oil leaks you may have or at least put in a new rear main seal.

I had to do the tandem pump gasket and I did the rear main seal and resealed the oil pan. I had a pretty bad oil leak that started not long before my transaxle went out. It was bad enough I did not want to risk any other possible leaks.

Also have you checked out your BSM yet? http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=293773
this would be a great time to take care of it if you haven't yet. That was my first thing I did on my car when I got it. I did the delete kit.

Jake Brake said:

I just got through pulling my trans and I found it a lot easier access to things with the subframe completely removed. If your friend has a trans jack or an atv jack it will make your job much easier.

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Thanks, I see what you did now.

I have a couple 1.8t gassers and I am considering swapping the complete powertrain assembly. Engine/trans subframe complete with axles/struts... everything. I was just wondering if that what you meant.

I just R&R'd my tranny to access my torque converter. Everything went fine and my rebuilt (by Erickson) TC locks up perfectly now. One problem that I cant figure out is I am now getting an intermittent 'ALTERNATOR WORKSHOP' and battery icon. It only comes on while hard accelerating. I changed the alternator pulley and the serpentine belt tensioner to no avail.

Since the problem first appeared on the test drive after the tranny job, I am now thinking that I possibly induced the problem. Any ideas? Would a poor connection at the starter cause this? As I said it's intermittent and might come on for 1-2 seconds only when hard accelerating. Voltage at battery is 12.65V (engine off) and 14.4V (engine on). Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Problem solved! Hot power cable at starter was TOO close to the engine block causing intermittent shorting.

Glad to hear that you got it going! I gotta get back on mine and finish it up.

oilhammer said:

If you unbolt the brackets on the side, it makes it signifigantly narrower, and thus easier to slide past the subframe. I could do these blindfolded.

I also completely remove the cooler pipe assembly and take it out altogether.

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I know this post is from a few years back, but it was the best posting I've found so far in searching tranny removal. I'm in the middle of the tranny remove right now, and I'm stuck on getting the shifter cable removed. I've also confused by the term " cooler pipe assembly". Oil hammer, are you referring to the oil cooler pipe on the front of the motor, or the tranny cooling lines running to the tranny?

Also, when you drop the sub frame, it sounds like you are loosening all four structural attach bolts, and the shock absorber bolt, and letting the sub frame hang from the 4 lower a-arm pins. Am I understanding that correctly?

Thanks in advance! I'll post some pics when I'm done!

No need to drop the subrfame completely. I just ran ved the rear bolt and loosed the front one so that the engine can tilt and give enough room to get to the top bellhousing bolts.