Front wheel bearing noise

Recently I noticed something like increased snow tire noise in the front. I jacked up the right ft wheel, felt for wheel movment [none], started the engine and spun the wheel up to about 40 , then put in neutral and shut the engine off with the wheel still spinning. Definitely noiser than the left wheel doing the same. This has been going on for about a week. 155K on the bearing. Is it likely the bearing???
If so it looks like a PITA replacment job. I called Salisbury Motors and got a $219 quote for the whole job + tax. [reasonable right]
What to do and how long should it last as is--- Ideas--

Sounds like a wheel bearing, could be the cv shaft as well. Boots OK? Wheel bearings aren't that hard to do, I did both of mine in about 2 hours. I also wouldn't drive on it long. It could lock up.

The noise will change on turns due to weight distribution if it is a bad bearing.

noisy bearing

Today I tried to listen for more noise turning left than right, but it was barely noticable. For some reason the noise was much less than last time, even going straight. In the last few trips it is noisy some days, but not so others - weird. I even went down the road with no engine running [to better hear] and turned L and R in the lane, but little difference.
The CV boots are cherry looking.

Changing front wheel bearing

I have read thru the bearing change info. I don't have any special tools to replace the bearing in the hub so I thought I'd buy the whole hub etc. from ID Parts
https://www.idparts.com/assembled-steering-knuckle-right-a4-tdi20-p-3910.html
Have others done this to simplify the change? I have local repair shops, but I want it to last more than a year because of improper assembly. What do you guys think about this, even though it costs a lot more than the bearing alone.

What I did to change mine with re-using the hub was took a dremel, cut a diagonal line in it, just before getting to the hub. I then put a chisel in the hole, shwap it with a hammer a few times. This'll fracture the remains of the bearing, and should slide off easily. Then just press the new bearing on, and call it good. Easier than buying fancy bearing splitter adapters for all sorts of wheel hubs.

Removing bearing

I would like more details on exactly where to grind the bearing to remove it. Is it on the end of the outer race or where? Thanx.

When I've pulled the bearings off, usually the inner race gets stuck on the spindle. That's the race that I'd dremel the groove into. I can see if I still have the bearing piece in my garage, upload a photo of it.

Here's a photo of one of the bearings I took off my car after I dremeled it. I did a similar cut on the opposite side so it flexed better when I ran the chisel in it to split it.

Bearing removal

Hi,
In removal of the old bearing I've ground a slot in the inner race and hammered it out. Next I had to grind on the snap ring 3 places because it would not come out like snap rings are supposed to. Now on to the outer race. I ground thru the race, but I can't tell which way it is supposed come out of the knuckle housing. You would think the race would come out the snap ring groove side, but it appears that the lip just inside the ring groove is too small in diameter for the OD. of the race judging by thickness of the new bearing outer race. Is there a spacer between bearing and the snap ring? Any way which way to press it out?If I'd known what a PITA this was I would have bought the complete assembled Knuckle-bearing from ID parts for $170. To add to this I had a fight to get the tie rod nut off because the shaft spun.
Much thanks

It should come out the snap ring side. If you had to cut several things, it could just be very stuck.

The bearing comes out from the snap ring side.

I've changed some bearings, mostly VW over the last years, and can be a PITA. The best and quickest way I found to pull the bearing off, is by using an electric hammer. Less than a minute to put the knuckle on the bench and 30 secs of beating it with the electric hammer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0udGfBWltvg

front bearing change

I finally removed the bearing races from the splined hub and the knuckle housing. Im ready to press the new bearing in. I bought a Korean made bearing from NAPA
and took it back because I got a cheaper German made bearing from ID Parts. Now to press it in, and hope that the nut I screw on the tie rod end goes on without spinning the shaft [tapered]. I may loctite it.

^ Just going from memory here, doesn't that tie rod end have a hexagonal hole in the tapered shaft so you can stick an allen key in it to stop it from spinning?

Edit, photo added:

6mm allen key

Chinese wheel bearings

I was ready to install my new bearing from ID parts that was advertised as German. Sure enough the bearing that comes in the Optimal box which says Germany has China printed in the side of the race. I called ID parts and their other boxes have made in Mexico on the bearings. I hate this. I took the NAPA bearing back because it comes from Korea in an SKF box. Any idea what to expect for bearing life from either of these? Some on this site have said they have gotten a year of life from whatever new bearing they put in. I'm not doing this again in a year. ANY OPINIONS??

SKF makes good bearings. Most bearing failure occurs due to heat or improper torque.

Yea, I would have elected on the South Korean part. They produce a lot of industrial parts.

FAG, idparts sells them, optimal is their less expensive line. I always use FAG bearings. Companies have stuff made all over the world. I have an SKF U joint sitting on my bench for a Ford 250 that says made in China. I bought a Spicer and installed that instead.

Just a side note I was at a carquest a few years ago looking for a wheel bearing for my Golf. Yup the guy says “we have them in stock” and proceeded to bring out a chinese bearing. I stood looking at it for a few seconds, I asked if there were other options. He could tell I was less than thrilled. He checked and said I can get a FAG by tomorrow for $2 less. Guess what I did?

wheel bearing replacment

Mostly all went well installing the bearing. I pressed the bearing in the knuckle housing using a bench vise. Plenty of force with just the vise. One thing to note when pressing the hub into the inner bearing race. I pulled it in the bearing with
threaded rod and some large washers. The hub started to go in at a slight angle to the race hole because the 2-part inner race can move out of straight alignment with the other part of the inner race. So when the hub shaft got in to the 2nd inner race section it did not line up exactly, so as I pushed further the inner section moved out about 1/8" with the bearing seal connected to it. I didn't think the 2 inner race pieces could misalign. The solution is the have the washer [part of the 2 washers, threaded rod & nuts] the same size as the bearing.
Anyway, I pulled the inner race pieces back together which put the seal back in place and bolted averything back together. Driving the car, there is no noise anymore. FINALLY FIXED

Please report back in a year to tell how things are. I want to know if distorting the outer race/displacing the inner races works long term.

Cheers,

PH

bearing in

Lets see if I can explain this better. I pressed the whole bearing in the knuckle OK, no issues. When I pushed the hub in thru the first half of the inner race it was slightly cocked so upon entering the other part of the inner race it was pushed out slightly. When I realized the seal was pushed out I straightened things out and pushed the far part of the inner race and seal back in. It looked good so here's hopein!!