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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > VW TDI Discussion Areas > Upgrades (non TDI Engine related)

Upgrades (non TDI Engine related) The place of handling, lighting and other upgrades that do not relate to the performance or economy of the TDI engine. In other words upgrades to your TDI that don't fit into TDI Fuel Economy & TDI Engine Enhancements.Please note the Performance Disclaimer

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Old August 19th, 2019, 09:26   #421
HeatAttack
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Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Tn, USA
TDI(s): 98 vw beetle
Default 98 vw beetle DIY lift plans.

Hey everyone, I know this thread has been going on for almost 10 years and not sure if anyone is even following it anymore.


I just purchased a 98 VW beetle that I plan in running in the upcoming Gambler 500. Naturally I want to get some lift and larger tires on it to prep for the event. After reading through every page of the thread I am pretty sure I know how I want to go about it. But if some of you have any thoughts or notice something I have completely missed I would greatly appreciate the advice.



A couple of specific things to my needs and the use of this vehicle. It is not a daily driver. It will only be driven off road ever. It will be hauled on a trailer to and from any location it is driven. Overall road drive quality is not really an issue at all. The rear is going to be slightly heaver than normal. I plan on carrying toolboxes, gear, and 2 full size spare tires in the back. Back seat may be deleted.



I plan on completely removing (with a possible modification later to refit them) the front and rear bumper and fenders. Bumpers will be replaced with custom tube bumpers/guards. Ideally this is for larger than normal tire clearance. Although I am not sure what offset/spacers I would need. I would like to fit somewhere around a 30-31inch tire, preferably on the stock wheels. If a little bit of rubbing happens at max turn and I cant cut it out of the way that may be okay.


After reading through everything. My plan right now for the lift is, Wagon springs and shocks all around front and rear, 4x2 hex and 2 inch pipe spacer and angle iron bottom shock mount extension for the rear, and 1'' pipe spacer for the front. I would expect some where around 3 inches of lift from that combo? And then I would gain about another 2 inches from the larger tires.



I have no doubt in my ability to do the work, but I am not at all versed in the effects of what doing the work will cause the vehicle to do. I also know nothing about tire sizes, spacers, and offsets. Like i said it wont be a road driver, it might get 500 miles on it a year at most off road. I just dont want to over stress anything that it will break too quickly, or over lift it to the point that some linkage I didn't think about is binding.


Any input would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks!
RTA
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Old August 19th, 2019, 10:39   #422
brnsgrbr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeatAttack View Post
Hey everyone, I know this thread has been going on for almost 10 years and not sure if anyone is even following it anymore.


I just purchased a 98 VW beetle that I plan in running in the upcoming Gambler 500. Naturally I want to get some lift and larger tires on it to prep for the event. After reading through every page of the thread I am pretty sure I know how I want to go about it. But if some of you have any thoughts or notice something I have completely missed I would greatly appreciate the advice.



A couple of specific things to my needs and the use of this vehicle. It is not a daily driver. It will only be driven off road ever. It will be hauled on a trailer to and from any location it is driven. Overall road drive quality is not really an issue at all. The rear is going to be slightly heaver than normal. I plan on carrying toolboxes, gear, and 2 full size spare tires in the back. Back seat may be deleted.



I plan on completely removing (with a possible modification later to refit them) the front and rear bumper and fenders. Bumpers will be replaced with custom tube bumpers/guards. Ideally this is for larger than normal tire clearance. Although I am not sure what offset/spacers I would need. I would like to fit somewhere around a 30-31inch tire, preferably on the stock wheels. If a little bit of rubbing happens at max turn and I cant cut it out of the way that may be okay.


After reading through everything. My plan right now for the lift is, Wagon springs and shocks all around front and rear, 4x2 hex and 2 inch pipe spacer and angle iron bottom shock mount extension for the rear, and 1'' pipe spacer for the front. I would expect some where around 3 inches of lift from that combo? And then I would gain about another 2 inches from the larger tires.



I have no doubt in my ability to do the work, but I am not at all versed in the effects of what doing the work will cause the vehicle to do. I also know nothing about tire sizes, spacers, and offsets. Like i said it wont be a road driver, it might get 500 miles on it a year at most off road. I just dont want to over stress anything that it will break too quickly, or over lift it to the point that some linkage I didn't think about is binding.


Any input would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks!
RTA


I am just going to add in my two cents on this one. I am currently running BF good rich K02ís. 27 inch on 16 inch wheels. Turning is restricted already. I donít see you being able to do 31 inch tires. Even with spacers. The issue isnít so much of how the tires turn out as much as the issue is the tire is rubbing on the firewall side because of the space.

I donít know the engine power train set up on your off-road vehicle. I will say, that getting out of first gear is a little harder even though itís just two more inches.

Below is what I need.
I am running airbags all the way around. What I would love, is to have the ability to have a CNC disc or two that are 2-3 3inches thick on top of my front airbags. I got a quote and the price was way too high basically $1000 to be able to do it not including labor. If anybody could get some reasonable pricing on CNC machining I would be very very grateful.


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Old August 19th, 2019, 10:51   #423
HeatAttack
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Originally Posted by brnsgrbr View Post
I am just going to add in my two cents on this one. I am currently running BF good rich K02ís. 27 inch on 16 inch wheels. Turning is restricted already. I donít see you being able to do 31 inch tires. Even with spacers. The issue isnít so much of how the tires turn out as much as the issue is the tire is rubbing on the firewall side because of the space.

I donít know the engine power train set up on your off-road vehicle. I will say, that getting out of first gear is a little harder even though itís just two more inches.

Below is what I need.
I am running airbags all the way around. What I would love, is to have the ability to have a CNC disc or two that are 2-3 3inches thick on top of my front airbags. I got a quote and the price was way too high basically $1000 to be able to do it not including labor. If anybody could get some reasonable pricing on CNC machining I would be very very grateful.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Thanks you so much for your input, that is exactly the type of info I need before I get moving on this project and the type of things I would not have known until everything was in place and mounted. Obviously a firewall is way more of an issue then removing some fenders or cutting out some plastic or rubber shielding some where. Ill reconsider my tire size to something more in line with what you have and go from there.



I am not looking to make this some sort of major Baja bug or an offroad beast, I have a truck for that. Just wanting to get it up high enough where I can do some slightly more difficult trails without to much difficulty and less chance of bottoming out/high centering, or cracking an oil pan.
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Old August 19th, 2019, 20:06   #424
ItAintRodKnock
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For heatattack.
Panzer plate with full metal jacket, or similar. The end. Lol



Im redoing my lift now, as i like to take realistic side trails myself. Before, i did Bilstein TCsports, and moog springs and spacers. The springs have wore out it feels like, so I'll be upgrading those.
Now, the lift with a purpouse. Id like to have more travel, no spacers. What I have seen, but not many comments, are jeep JK front springs in the front and jeep XJ front springs in the rear. I would pair those springs with bilstein HD struts, as you'll want the strength(and warranty) In My Opinion. Those give the lift withoit spacers, thus more purpouse built.
In addition, i would consider the "airshocks" in the rear, their is a ghetto mod thread explaining that, and it will keep the vehicle level with the added weight. I carry a miter saw, table saw and tons of tools for work, and love the comfort and level ride of the Monroe airshocks. (Slight modding to make these fit, id carry 2 spares incase they blow out(or maybe this isnt the best application?) easy to have them setup to just slap them in)

I dunno if gambler 500 is rally style, but id spend the extra couple hundred and upgrade to VR6/1.8t calipers/brakes.

And, if it were me, id be running Sprint520 nozzles and a rocketchip stage3 tune. Great fuel eco and perfect power, i feel like.
(Notice how opinionated my post is, and research to see if this fits your needs)

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Last edited by ItAintRodKnock; August 19th, 2019 at 20:15.
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Old August 20th, 2019, 06:52   #425
HeatAttack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ItAintRodKnock View Post
For heatattack.
Panzer plate with full metal jacket, or similar. The end. Lol



Im redoing my lift now, as i like to take realistic side trails myself. Before, i did Bilstein TCsports, and moog springs and spacers. The springs have wore out it feels like, so I'll be upgrading those.
Now, the lift with a purpouse. Id like to have more travel, no spacers. What I have seen, but not many comments, are jeep JK front springs in the front and jeep XJ front springs in the rear. I would pair those springs with bilstein HD struts, as you'll want the strength(and warranty) In My Opinion. Those give the lift withoit spacers, thus more purpouse built.
In addition, i would consider the "airshocks" in the rear, their is a ghetto mod thread explaining that, and it will keep the vehicle level with the added weight. I carry a miter saw, table saw and tons of tools for work, and love the comfort and level ride of the Monroe airshocks. (Slight modding to make these fit, id carry 2 spares incase they blow out(or maybe this isnt the best application?) easy to have them setup to just slap them in)

I dunno if gambler 500 is rally style, but id spend the extra couple hundred and upgrade to VR6/1.8t calipers/brakes.

And, if it were me, id be running Sprint520 nozzles and a rocketchip stage3 tune. Great fuel eco and perfect power, i feel like.
(Notice how opinionated my post is, and research to see if this fits your needs)

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the input.


I have taken a step back and decided to do a little more research before I commit to anything and jump in on the modding.



The gambler 500 is an off road event where you do about 500 miles of various check points all or mostly off road. The one I am going to is in crossville Tn and will be on the management/off road area there. Think anything from being able to do the entire event on gravel roads, to what the call "the devils butthole" routes which would be capable rock crawling vehicles only. Its not high speed or rally at all. And the idea is to buy a $500 incapable car, put as little money into it as possible and push it as little or as far as you want.


Right now I have $520 bucks in the car, $500 for the car and $20 for new rear brake pads. Id like to keep my total spent under $1000 for now as I have no plans to do anything with this car but trailer it to and from off road spots and drive it on the farm.



Thats why I was trying to look for suspension mods I can do with junk yard parts from other vehicles, or fabricating myself. I have a pretty decent at home shop with basically everything but high end specialty machines, and a lift.


I have a welder, and access to plenty of free angle iron, flat metal, piping, etc through work.



But my car knowledge is lacking, specially in the suspension area. I did take 2 years of autoshop but that was 15 years ago and I haven't worked on any of my own vehicles since 2005.





more on your post. I assume the jeep springs are longer then vw stock thus giving more lift and travel? I like this because I can "pull-a-part" those easy and cheap. and not have to do the 4x2, pipe spacers on the springs.



what about the bilstein HD struts I assume these are slightly longer then stock as well? Does anyone know if there are any stock struts from another vehicle I could also "pull-a-apart" that would provide the same lift?


I know its not ideal to frankenstein everything from other vehicles but I am trying to keep my budget down as low as possible. If i ever planned to daily drive this vehicle I would consider spending the extra money, but its basically just a Go-Cart to me at this point. If I can get everything at the junk yard I can do the entire suspension myself for probably $200-250 or less. I just dont know exactly which parts to get off which vehicles as there seems to be alot of different info on that.
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Old August 20th, 2019, 07:25   #426
ItAintRodKnock
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Its just so hard to do everything on a budget.!.! Since its not world rally cross style, but more of an adventure crawl, id stay with the stock caliper then. Good mentioning.
Honestly, id be sure to have the metal skid plate. that's real important for keeping the oil pan safe, as well as, peace of mind nothings going to fly up there. Is a chunk of your remaining $$ but almost guaruntees you'll finish the race with oil pan intact and car still running. (There was a guy recently who did this kindof stuff to a jetta, his fun was cut short due to the,all too common, oil pan cracking.. due hitting the ground, sinking in mud i believe. Its on youtube)
Per budget, I would stick with the Bilstein TC sports, which do travel farther than stock and are significantly cheaper than the beefier HDs..
Junkyard jeep springs should be cheap, but annoying to get a hold of.(they seem to be the same diameter top and bottom, but are taller springs and are said to be the proper spring rate)
And that should complete the list.
($300) new bilstein TC-s
($350) new panzer plate and FullMetalJacket
(Sub$100) junkyard jeep springs
($100) suspension refresh kit(bushings and bolts and such)
Broke your budget, but not by much and those are NEW, possible to find used.

Speaking of used, my HDs have arrived, I'll swap them soonish, and will have a set of 60K+ mile used bilstein TC sports for sale. The rears have about 45-50K or so miles, as I swapped them for the monroe air shocks last year. Dunno your timeline though..

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Old August 20th, 2019, 07:34   #427
HeatAttack
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Yeah I hadn't planned for the skid plate and that does break the budget. But now that I look into it I for sure need one for what I plan on doing. I might jack the car up this evening and see whats going on under there and take a look at pre-made plates. Its possible I can fab something up out of some cold rolled scraps that will function and save me a few hundred there.



Edit: Checked out, the panzer plate and side skirts, Ugh I am going to have to order that....

Edit on this again: I checked out the gunaxin VW beetle build that also did the gambler 500. They just used a 4ftx2ft piece of diamond plate and from the pictures seems to be an easy and fine solution with only 1 bend. Ill probably go this route as it will be around 1/10 of the price.





Im currently checking springs vs stock dimensions seeing if there is anything else available that will work and provide that lift. New spring sets are showing around $75 ish a pair which I may just go that route if I can find something that works considering it will save me the drive to the junk yard and the labor of having to pull old springs out plus they will be new.


The car is still sitting stock in the driveway but once I get started I will be sure to update with pictures and parts that I went with.




Edit #2:


Regarding Jeep Springs. The spring set up of Jeep JK Front springs in the front and Jeep XJ front springs in the rear seem to match up to VW Stock measurements pretty close.


VW Stock spring info:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/s...kswagen/beetle





The JK jeep springs look to be about 2.5 in compressed taller than vw stock for the front. The compression rate is about 10lbs different on the set I am looking at and assuming the JK jeep is heaver in front then my Beetle they may not compress as far and its possible the lift would come out closer to 3-3.25 inches?



JK jeep Springs info:

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/s.../jeep/wrangler



The XJ Front Jeep springs seem to match up close to VW stock rear springs. With a compressed height only 1 inch higher than VW stock, and a compression rate about 30lbs/in less. I am again assuming the weight on the rear springs on a VW beetle is much less than on a Jeep and I would not expect the Jeep springs to compress as far if mounted on the beetle.



XJ Jeep Springs info:

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/s.../jeep/wrangler


New price for both front and rear is about $180.



Edit 3, Can get both sets of springs new from RockAuto for $95+Shipping. Moog brand


Edit #4, I got the rear springs installed last night, they fit and provided about 3'' of lift for the rear, You 100% need to buy spring compressors to get them in. I have a few pictures I will try to get posted soon. Right now I still have the car jacked up because I have a bad brake caliper I need to pick up a replacement for and install today. The rear shocks are way overextended, almost maxed out. I am still doing research on a replacement shocks that are about 3 inches longer and will mount up stock, or with minor modifications. I may just do the angle iron lift on the shocks and see how that works since its about 30 minutes of work and free.





Anyone have any thoughts on that as I move on to researching shocks and struts.

Last edited by HeatAttack; August 22nd, 2019 at 11:07. Reason: Added additional information about Jeep Springs.
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Old August 20th, 2019, 09:18   #428
HeatAttack
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Originally Posted by brnsgrbr View Post
I am just going to add in my two cents on this one. I am currently running BF good rich K02ís. 27 inch on 16 inch wheels. Turning is restricted already. I donít see you being able to do 31 inch tires. Even with spacers. The issue isnít so much of how the tires turn out as much as the issue is the tire is rubbing on the firewall side because of the space.

I donít know the engine power train set up on your off-road vehicle. I will say, that getting out of first gear is a little harder even though itís just two more inches.

Below is what I need.
I am running airbags all the way around. What I would love, is to have the ability to have a CNC disc or two that are 2-3 3inches thick on top of my front airbags. I got a quote and the price was way too high basically $1000 to be able to do it not including labor. If anybody could get some reasonable pricing on CNC machining I would be very very grateful.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro



I am 100% unsure of how your bags are connected or what your exact needs are but if you are just looking for a 2-3'' "puck" on top of your air bags then I would just find some flat iron in the thickest stock you can, hopefully as wide as you would have the diameter of your "pucks" and hopefully at least 3/8 to 1/2 thick. Cut it square to the diameter your pucks would have been, drill your holes in each piece where needed, get some longer bolts, and stack them in there.



You can clean them up more round with a grinder if need be, and can weld them all together if you have the ability or want to, although I wouldn't think it would be necessary.



Only tools you would need are a grinder and drill. and you should be able to source the flat iron local for $50 or so. Itd be just as strong if not stronger than a CNCed piece of aluminum.



If it was my crappy beater car Id probably just use black steel pipes large enough for the bolts the fit through and cut them to the length I want the spacers to be.
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Old August 22nd, 2019, 18:14   #429
bigsexyTDI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeatAttack View Post
Hey everyone, I know this thread has been going on for almost 10 years and not sure if anyone is even following it anymore.


I just purchased a 98 VW beetle that I plan in running in the upcoming Gambler 500. Naturally I want to get some lift and larger tires on it to prep for the event. After reading through every page of the thread I am pretty sure I know how I want to go about it. But if some of you have any thoughts or notice something I have completely missed I would greatly appreciate the advice.



A couple of specific things to my needs and the use of this vehicle. It is not a daily driver. It will only be driven off road ever. It will be hauled on a trailer to and from any location it is driven. Overall road drive quality is not really an issue at all. The rear is going to be slightly heaver than normal. I plan on carrying toolboxes, gear, and 2 full size spare tires in the back. Back seat may be deleted.



I plan on completely removing (with a possible modification later to refit them) the front and rear bumper and fenders. Bumpers will be replaced with custom tube bumpers/guards. Ideally this is for larger than normal tire clearance. Although I am not sure what offset/spacers I would need. I would like to fit somewhere around a 30-31inch tire, preferably on the stock wheels. If a little bit of rubbing happens at max turn and I cant cut it out of the way that may be okay.


After reading through everything. My plan right now for the lift is, Wagon springs and shocks all around front and rear, 4x2 hex and 2 inch pipe spacer and angle iron bottom shock mount extension for the rear, and 1'' pipe spacer for the front. I would expect some where around 3 inches of lift from that combo? And then I would gain about another 2 inches from the larger tires.



I have no doubt in my ability to do the work, but I am not at all versed in the effects of what doing the work will cause the vehicle to do. I also know nothing about tire sizes, spacers, and offsets. Like i said it wont be a road driver, it might get 500 miles on it a year at most off road. I just dont want to over stress anything that it will break too quickly, or over lift it to the point that some linkage I didn't think about is binding.


Any input would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks!
RTA
Pulling the front and rear clip will let you run 31x10.50-15s no problem. BUT not on factory wheels. You need less offset so they stick out more. There was a guy on newbeetle.org that had 31x10.50s even with fenders, but they had definitely been trimmed.

Start a build thread and post pics! I will be doing pretty much the same build soon.

Here's the link from back in the day. The OP is on 28s, but theres a yellow Hot Wheels bug in there on 31s. Looking back, we never got any specific info on it.
https://www.newbeetle.org/forums/tec...-beetle-3.html
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Last edited by bigsexyTDI; August 22nd, 2019 at 18:49.
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Old August 23rd, 2019, 04:19   #430
HeatAttack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigsexyTDI View Post
Pulling the front and rear clip will let you run 31x10.50-15s no problem. BUT not on factory wheels. You need less offset so they stick out more. There was a guy on newbeetle.org that had 31x10.50s even with fenders, but they had definitely been trimmed.

Start a build thread and post pics! I will be doing pretty much the same build soon.

Here's the link from back in the day. The OP is on 28s, but theres a yellow Hot Wheels bug in there on 31s. Looking back, we never got any specific info on it.
https://www.newbeetle.org/forums/tec...-beetle-3.html

Yeah I saw that thread, thats the one that made me think I could fit up to 31's in there to begin with. It seems to have died though.


I will look into starting my own build thread. I have been taking a good number of pictures as I go along I just have not made it very far yet. The project is kinda a build and and slight restoration in one.



I am still working on the rear, rear jeep coil springs are in. I have the material to fab up the lower extensions for the rear shocks, should be less than an hour to fab and install those. Also have new rear brake calipers and rotors that should be in today. So I am hoping to mostly finish up the rear suspension mods tonight and be able to focus on the front this weekend.
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Old August 30th, 2019, 06:22   #431
HeatAttack
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Default Preview of what I have been able to accomplish so far

I have made some slight progress on my build. Here is what I have done and what I have discovered and had to modify so far. Please be aware of the previous use I posted for this vehicle. It is an unregistered, off road/Farm car only (Its basically a go cart to me)


Here is a link to the Imgur Gallery I will be using as I progress
https://imgur.com/gallery/ZYLwoNF


Instead of posting a bunch of pics here just take a look at that. Let me know if its not working.




I started with raising the rear first. I used Jeep springs as discussed previously in the post, and used the angle iron shock extender as discussed before. I went with 4'' spacing for the bolt holes on the extension piece and it seems to be working fine. Front and rear are both running on 235/70/r16s. I removed both plastic under body cowls from the rear. With those removed I do not seem to have any rear clearance issues. The fuel fill system, other pieces by the fuel fill port are kinda close and I may end up relocating them.



The front was a little more complicated. In order to meet the approximately 4 inches of lift I was able to get out of the rear I had to do what some may consider to be major mods to the front suspension system.

I went with the jeep springs again on the stock struts. These were pretty darn tight on the struts. But because of stock strut length and the way they mount to the lower control arm on these vehicles I was still short about 1.5-1.75 inches of lift with the top struts mounted in the stock location. I ended up getting some upper strut mounts for another vehicle (I cant remember which vehicle, I just went to the parts store and looked through everything they had until I found something that looked like it would work, Ill update with what I used later). I was able to mount these to the stock upper strut mount locations, but on the underside of the vehicle. This moved the upper strut mount location down just enough to provide the extra lift I needed.



Front drivers side all looked fine, no problems with clearances or odd angles or anything on the suspension and drive train. There were some problems with clearance once tires were mounted. More on that later.



Passenger side drive axle just barely hit the lower control arm. I ended up having to drop everything down, including the subframe on that side and I took a grinder to the lower control arm where the drive axle was hitting and took out out about an inch of metal until the axle had about 3/8'' of clearance when the suspension was fully extended.



Once the tires were mounted I ran into some issues with them hitting the lower spring seat on the struts. A combination of beating on the strut and some 38mm offsets for the wheels solved that problem with plenty of room to spare.



Both drivers and passengers side tires rub on the corner of the unibody frame. I am going to try and beat it in this weekend and see if I can get enough room. If not I will just cut out that corner and weld in a new piece of plate metal to make sure everything clears.



And thats where I am at right now. Aside from the rubbing issues everything seems to be fine, No problems at all pushing the tires and the suspension seems to have stopped making popping sounds so hopefully it is settled in.



Ill keep you up to date as I progress.
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Old September 17th, 2019, 11:08   #432
HeatAttack
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TDI(s): 98 vw beetle
Default News Update, Completely broke the car

So, I kinda got done with the lift and a few other things I wanted to get done for the Gambler 500 this last weekend. Bad news is we managed to destroy a bunch of things. Main issue was the passenger side strut decided to pop free and push down through the fork and rest of the drive shaft. The car will not move now and I get some wonderful grinding noises, Not sure if the axle pulled out or if the transmission is also exploded or what. Also have some new electrical issues that may have been caused by the 2ish feet of mud I decided it would be a good idea to drive through. Car will start and idle fine but dies after a 15-20 minutes, battery completely dead. I suspect an alternator issue. but haven't had time to investigate further.



Also managed to rip off most of the front end towing it back to camp. Front bumper mounts just werent up to snuff and the drivers side broke free. Which also means the radiator mount on that side is gone.



Current plan is to weld a plate on the underside of the fork strut mounts to make sure they do not push out of the bottom again. Fix the drive axle/transmission problem. Figure out the electrical issue, maybe its a bad alternator, maybe I have a short some where. And then work on fabricating up a stronger front end, skid plate, belt shield, and remount (possible relocate) the radiator.



Lots more pictures and a video on my facebook. https://www.facebook.com/rabbott83
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Old September 19th, 2019, 11:59   #433
ItAintRodKnock
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Fraggle Rock, CO
TDI(s): 01GolfTDi
Fuel Economy: 40 with lift
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Cant see the pics..
Did you have fun?

Sucks you had afew breaks.
Id have "babied" it a particular way to have better hopes of completing the day. As opposed to hauling ass, rally cross style. But, either way, thesencars werent made for that stuff. (Coming from someone who wants to trail ride his lifted golf, and someone use to regularly drive it on the beach.

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From FLA to CO!! 2001 Golf 4 door White: R520, Malone 2, McNally gauge, SB stg2E clutch, Panzer FMJ, FrostHeater, 2white2blue Moog 81055, Bilstein TC-s, homemade "$40 2 inch lift" Long time poster, now just a lurker.
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Old July 6th, 2020, 08:14   #434
gosoxtony
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Owasso, OK, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnnysuede View Post
The square tubing pieces and the huge pipe coupler. Just like the original post on this thread. The threaded pieces are for the front.
Could you please explain, or show pictures of how the threaded cylinders go on the struts?
I love your set-up, but don't understand the front.
Thanks,
gosoxtony
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