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VW MKV-A5 Golf/Jettas Discussions area for A5/MkV Jetta/Golf (2005/2006 PD and 2009 CR).

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Old March 28th, 2011, 18:51   #16
Dimitri16V
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if anybody needs the cam holder and pulley puller for the PDs, I have the VAG variety and can rent them.
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Old April 10th, 2011, 16:29   #17
LF06VWJTDI
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Well, I went to Port Jervis, NY this past Friday and took my TDI to TDIJetta99's shop. I rented a UHaul truck with a dolly and that's how I towed the car all the way there. It was so bad that when it came time to unload it from the dolly, the car didn't even have the power to roll off the 1.5in. little hump that is on the platform where the tires sit on. Thick clouds of pitch black smoke everywhere.
When TDIJetta99 heard the sound of the engine, he thought the problem was more severe than anticipated, possibly something wrong with the head.
Nevertheless, Jason (TDIJetta99) performed the cam replacement using the kit I bought from Aaron BleachedBora, in a stunningly short (for me at least) 2.5 hours, and when he fired "Teedee" up the engine sounded like it had just come out off the factory. We took it for a ride and it ran beautiful!
The cam Jason replaced was very badly worn out, all lobes were scratched and had deep grooves in them, excavated by God knows what.
But, thanks to the very talented and skillful hands of TDIJetta99, my nightmare is now over, my baby has fully recovered from "open heart surgery" and I can enjoy her for many more thousands of miles.
I wanted to thank Jason again for getting my car back to life. You're definitely going to see me for all extraordinary maintenance, buddy. You truly know your trade and I feel very comfortable in letting you touch my car. Good job, dude.
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Old April 10th, 2011, 21:56   #18
Henrick
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-What cam did you end up, an OEM one or aftermarket?
-What was your break-in procedure?
-What oil did you use for initial fill? Afterwards?
-Willing to post pictures of the old/worn/failed parts?
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Old April 11th, 2011, 08:07   #19
LF06VWJTDI
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I used an OEM cam (BRM) and my break in procedure was simply fire it up and drive it as I normally would for about 30 minutes. The initial fill was done with LubroMoly 5w40 and I'm doing another oil change at the 1K mi. mark from the replacement, using Rotella T6 5w40.
TDIJetta99 kept the cam to take some pictures, perhaps he can post them too. It was bad...bad.
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Old April 11th, 2011, 09:27   #20
leibuys
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LF06VWJTDI View Post
I used an OEM cam (BRM) and my break in procedure was simply fire it up and drive it as I normally would for about 30 minutes. The initial fill was done with LubroMoly 5w40 and I'm doing another oil change at the 1K mi. mark from the replacement, using Rotella T6 5w40.
TDIJetta99 kept the cam to take some pictures, perhaps he can post them too. It was bad...bad.

LFO6, Don't use Rotella T6! This is very good oil and it's inexpensive but the problem is it doesn't meet VW's 505.01 spec which you need to help prevent the cam wear in the BRM. If you were using T6 prior this could be a partial cause of the failure. There are guys in europe claiming to get 250,000 miles (400,000km) on their stock PD cams.

Can you let us know what oil you were using prior to the failure also how many miles on the car when it started to loose power? Also, what did the cam kit cost and how much did TDIJetta99 end up charging?
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Old April 11th, 2011, 09:31   #21
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Thanks for the kind words... It sounded like a connecting rod was letting go when we were trying to get it off the dolly.. We ended up anchoring the car to another car and pulling the dolly out from underneath it.. The replacement was an OE BRM cam..

The oil that went in initially was the lubro moly 5w40 that came with the kit.. I suggested to run it for 1k or so and change it using either Rotella T6 or Mobil1 TDT.. The Lubro Moly stuff is ok as long as it's the 5w40.. The 5w30 just doesn't seem to work well enough for the PD's..

As far as break-in, other than not letting it idle for hours, my advice is to just drive the car like you would normally drive.. Unless of course it's a track car.. It seems to work fine like that..

I'll post some pictures of the cam and lifters if it's ok with LF06...
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Old April 11th, 2011, 09:32   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leibuys View Post
LFO6, Don't use Rotella T6! This is very good oil and it's inexpensive but the problem is it doesn't meet VW's 505.01 spec which you need to help prevent the cam wear in the BRM. If you were using T6 prior this could be a partial cause of the failure. There are guys in europe claiming to get 250,000 miles (400,000km) on their stock PD cams.

Can you let us know what oil you were using prior to the failure also how many miles on the car when it started to loose power? Also, what did the cam kit cost and how much did TDIJetta99 end up charging?
The T6 AND Mobil 1 consistently return better UOA's than most of the 505.01 approved 5w30's... Go look around in the oil section.. There's nothing wrong with either oil..

He was using 505.01 approved oil, and the cam failed prematurely...
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Old April 11th, 2011, 10:52   #23
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Jason, you can post the pictures of the cam. I think it is good documentation.

To leibuys, my TDI has always had 507 spec Longlife III in its engine since I bought it (whatever was in the engine when I drove it off the dealer's lot was no longer there a couple of hours later as changing the oil was the very first thing I did). For the first year of its life, I did oil changes every 5000 miles, then by reading threads upon threads on this forum, I decided to go to 10K miles intervals which I observed religiously.
The cam failed, to the point where I could no longer drive, when the car hit the 132500 mile mark.

TDIJetta charged me standard hourly price a reasonably priced shop would charge, for a 3-4 hours work (he also changed the engine temp thermostat).
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Old April 11th, 2011, 21:13   #24
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So you bought the car new and changed the oil in a few hours?

Also, I have heard that using LongLife II or LongLife III oils in cars without WIV (service interval extentions + on-board monitoring system) is a BIG NO NO (not sure why, though).
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Old April 12th, 2011, 04:18   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Henrick View Post
So you bought the car new and changed the oil in a few hours?
That's exactly what I did.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Henrick View Post
Also, I have heard that using LongLife II or LongLife III oils in cars without WIV (service interval extentions + on-board monitoring system) is a BIG NO NO (not sure why, though).
I have no idea. I was trying to follow VW recommendations on using 504/507 spec. They're obviously wrong.
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Old April 11th, 2013, 12:13   #26
damlot
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help, i cant find the link on your website

Quote:
Originally Posted by chittychittybangbang View Post
I would DIY since "Cash is tight right now". However, if you're not good at following instructions and have no mechanical experience or aptitude, maybe not because it will cost you more to repair what you mess up. If you do, it'll save some cash and give you some pride in the repair (or frustration and shame if you mess up ) There is a detailed step by step pictorial on my website if you want to DIY.
Prepare, read, reread the instructions, and it should be doable in 1 day if you reuse the timing belt (no need to remove motor mount).
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Old July 3rd, 2014, 11:46   #27
amandanicole
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LF06VWJTDI View Post
Well, I went to Port Jervis, NY this past Friday and took my TDI to TDIJetta99's shop. I rented a UHaul truck with a dolly and that's how I towed the car all the way there. It was so bad that when it came time to unload it from the dolly, the car didn't even have the power to roll off the 1.5in. little hump that is on the platform where the tires sit on. Thick clouds of pitch black smoke everywhere.
When TDIJetta99 heard the sound of the engine, he thought the problem was more severe than anticipated, possibly something wrong with the head.
Nevertheless, Jason (TDIJetta99) performed the cam replacement using the kit I bought from Aaron BleachedBora, in a stunningly short (for me at least) 2.5 hours, and when he fired "Teedee" up the engine sounded like it had just come out off the factory. We took it for a ride and it ran beautiful!
The cam Jason replaced was very badly worn out, all lobes were scratched and had deep grooves in them, excavated by God knows what.
But, thanks to the very talented and skillful hands of TDIJetta99, my nightmare is now over, my baby has fully recovered from "open heart surgery" and I can enjoy her for many more thousands of miles.
I wanted to thank Jason again for getting my car back to life. You're definitely going to see me for all extraordinary maintenance, buddy. You truly know your trade and I feel very comfortable in letting you touch my car. Good job, dude.
Bumping for an update. How are things with your Teedee a year later? Stock cam shaft right? going to be ordering ours in the next couple days with the install kit from Kerma and wnated to know if you have been doing anything differently to try and prolong the life of the cam? It is still running great?
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Old August 13th, 2019, 20:43   #28
kyles s
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mnguy View Post
When I did my cam I left the injector pump on and turned the cam 90 degrees and slid it right out, you will need the seal for the other end of the cam.
sorry to bring this up from the dead haha but did you rotate the crank 90 degrees also to avoid smashing the valves into the pistons? or can you simply just rotate cam 90 pop out old put new one in and rotate back 90?
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Old August 14th, 2019, 08:31   #29
James & Son
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It is not dead, you can always learn from history. But you need a correct procedure and ideally understand why each step is required. The question you are asking is very important. The answer is NO to question one as the cam belt is still attached when you rotate 90 and the answer is no to question two as this is an interference engine. Once you now know these two facts I think you will understand the procedure.

Last edited by James & Son; August 14th, 2019 at 09:08.
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Old August 14th, 2019, 09:28   #30
crazyrunner33
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This video shows how to do the 90 degree method.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3XNNGpdu7w

That's the method I used. I researched the videos and articles from MyTurboDiesel as well as the threads on here. If there was something I wasn't 100 percent sure about, I rewatched the videos and read up on the procedures. Then I rewatched the videos again when I was done to make sure I didn't skip anything.

Growler's checklist is also very handy to have.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=264887
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