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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKV-A5 Golf/Jettas

VW MKV-A5 Golf/Jettas Discussions area for A5/MkV Jetta/Golf (2005/2006 PD and 2009 CR).

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Old August 8th, 2016, 14:47   #1
banshee365
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Default BRM engine bracket stripping threads?

This engine bracket that the motor mount bolts to with the large 18mm head bolts pulled some threads out with the bolts on removal. I didn't not use an impact. I did the timing belt on this car and used all new bolts on the motor mounts a couple of years ago. No after removing the bolts for a second time to get the mount and bracket out of the way quite a few threads came out with the bolts and they are pretty buggered up looking the first 1/2" or so into the bolt hole.

Is this a pretty common issue? These bolts are obviously important because if they pull the threads while driving the engine will fall down on that side. That bracket isn't cheap either at well north of $100.
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Old August 8th, 2016, 15:26   #2
Spiked1Z
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yep its common documented over at myturbodiesel.com .. motor mounts may not have been aligned completely when installing them? or a bad rubber mount caused it to fail..
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Old August 8th, 2016, 16:22   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spiked1Z View Post
yep its common documented over at myturbodiesel.com .. motor mounts may not have been aligned completely when installing them? or a bad rubber mount caused it to fail..
Is that what you learned on mtd?

The threads get pulled out of the aluminum either because the bolts were removed while supporting the weight of the engine or they were over torqued during install. Torque spec is 74ft lbs with no additional rotation.
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Old August 8th, 2016, 18:43   #4
banshee365
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There was no load on the mount during the timing belt change, or the removal just today.

I used the erWin spec of 44 ft/lb + 90. I bet the 74 ft/lb spec ends up being less than what the 90 after the 44 ends up being.
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Old August 9th, 2016, 12:47   #5
Spiked1Z
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Originally Posted by greengeeker View Post
Is that what you learned on mtd?

The threads get pulled out of the aluminum either because the bolts were removed while supporting the weight of the engine or they were over torqued during install. Torque spec is 74ft lbs with no additional rotation.
Yes you are right, that site has a plethora of information. not sure why you would point something like that out unless you have a grudge against that site? Do you respond to other people who are trying to help like that?
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Old August 9th, 2016, 12:52   #6
Spiked1Z
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Originally Posted by banshee365 View Post
There was no load on the mount during the timing belt change, or the removal just today.

I used the erWin spec of 44 ft/lb + 90. I bet the 74 ft/lb spec ends up being less than what the 90 after the 44 ends up being.
I used the 74 ft/lb spec when I changed out my water pump recently and did notice that when bolting back up everything may not line up to the previous bolt outlines on the mount. Best way to be sure is snug them down by hand, then tighten with torque wrench, but sounds like you probably did this.

You should be able to find a used mount at your local junk yard, or ebay...
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Old August 14th, 2016, 16:56   #7
banshee365
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Boy these motor mounts are proving to be 1-2 time use only. I was just torquing down the M8 bolt on the small bracket that holds the side load on the motor mount to the body. I didn't make it anywhere near 20nm, much less another 90 degrees and it stripped right out. The large 18mm head bolts that goto the engine bracket look awful as I mentioned in the OP. This is really a crap design. If I had it to do over I guess I would only remove the 8mm bolt that holds the angle bracket to the body as that captive nut is steel.

The motor mount bolts on these BRM's seem to need to be touched AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE. For this reason I think many people, including Frank06, recommend doing cam jobs without removing the mounts for this exact reason.

I suppose the best option at this point to just have the holes filled with steel inserts and be done with it for good.
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Old August 17th, 2016, 15:41   #8
banshee365
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Problem solved on the engine mount itself. The M8x1.25 bolt stripped out way prior to the specified torque. I had a machine shop quote me $150 to machine some custom steel sleeves for the M8 and two M12 bolts that goto the engine bracket. The engine bracket is cheaper than that new so I didn't go that route, though they would never strip or pull the threads again.

I loosely installed the mount and engine bracket so I could torque the two M12 with the 18mm head to the 74 ft/lb spec to see if they would take the torque. Although the threads look pretty buggered the first half inch or so they seemed to grab plenty well and took the torque no problem.

The only issue then was the M8x1.25 that was totally stripped out. I've been using these keyed locking thread inserts lately on other holes that had stripped or damaged threads. They really really work awesome. I get them from McMaster-Carr. You have to drill the hole to the specified size for the outside thread diameter, which in this case was with a 10.8mm bit. Then you tap the hole to M12x1.25 which is the outside thread of the inset. Screw the insert in until it bottoms out on the keys then use the special tool to drive the stakes perfectly and evenly down into the aluminum. This prevents the insert from backing out with the fastener like helicons and others can do.

For many projects I've become fond of these inserts. I don't think they would work for spark plug holes or anything like that. I would go for the timeserts for that I think, they also are designed to be staked using another method and will not back out. These keyed locking inserts would be way too thick for a spark plug or something like that. I used these style inserts on some M6 transmission pan bolts that went into the aluminum Toyota transmission case they got cross threaded and stripped by someone in prior years. They work like a charm and aren't going anywhere. They also make them in stainless steel but I'm been using the black steel variety for my uses up to this point.


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Old August 18th, 2016, 13:45   #9
Spiked1Z
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nice find! I used some spark plug thread replacements on a stripped aluminum oil pan drain bolt (gsxr bike), still holding and not leaking many years later.
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Old August 16th, 2019, 22:24   #10
kpaske
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I had this same problem a couple of years after doing a timing belt change - the bolts that attached the motor mount to the motor mount bracket snapped. One was stripped and the other has half a bolt still in it. So I purchased a new motor mount bracket, but could somebody please tell me exactly which bolts I need to order? I need to R&R the motor mount bracket to the engine block, and then bolt the motor mount to the bracket.
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