Recently I've noticed engine oil dripping from the intake hoses on my car, mostly from the connections to the IC underneath and at the back of the engine, if I recall correctly that was from the filter side of the turbo. So today I wanted to change the air filter so I pulled the hose off that goes from the filter housing to the CCV valve and it's quite obvious that the oil is coming from that valve. There's a small amount of oil back at the MAF sensor too. So is there something wrong with the CCV? Or is it something else? I sure hope it's not the turbo but I don't think it is.
CCV Valve
- Thread starter Brent4
- Start date
sptsailing
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jul 9, 2010
- Location
- Safety Harbor, FL
- TDI
- 2006 Jetta Manual, stock with Panzer Plate & Franko6 modified EGR cooler & CAM
I believe your problem is similar to the one I posted questions about.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=496474&highlight=oil
I contacted Franko6 by email, and he sent me the following reply:
"I've found that the BRM has a regular and aggravating oil leak from the plastic elbow that attaches directly to the outlet of the turbo. It is a green Viton o-ring, which I wish were about .2mm thicker. The boost pressure will make it leak enough oil to make a mess and worse, it falls onto the cabin heater's hoses, causing them to swell or otherwise, go bad.
Until I find the correct o-ring, which seems like it's not going to happen, my alternative fix is to remove the plastic elbow, take out the o-ring. then thoroughly clean the elbow. Wipe a thin layer of High Temp RTV in the location where the o-ring seats. Let the RTV completely cure and reinstall the elbow, with the o-ring back in place. The extra layer of RTV will make the seal a bit more difficult to push into place and that is good. It will stop leaking.
As for items such as the Provent or the Alfdex, I did try to use a Provent. I found it awkward and messy. The cost, in my opinion, is high and the true value, low. I took the thing off and it's laying on a shelf around here somewhere.
The idea of taking that goop you separated out of the crank case vent and putting it back into the crankcase is not a good idea, in my opinion. It is exhaust gasses, water and a little bit of oil. The issue with the intake manifold will not be cured, as that is as much or more, the exhaust gasses which carry soot into the engine. I think the CCV that is in place is adequate, if the engine is driven correctly.
Every TDI engine produces some intake debris. The amount that will coat your intake manifold is much more to do with driving habits and engine rpm than any device you can put on it. In our own personal cars; one a '02 Jetta with the ALH and an '05 Passat with the Pumpe Duese BHW, we have never cleaned either the intake on the Jetta, which currently has over 250,000 miles or the Passat, which has about 140,000. The reason for our 'lack of cleaning' is we drive the engine in the appropriate rpm, all the time. This means down-shifting if the rpms will fall below 2000.
Although I realize there is a power band that is fairly healthy around 1500 rpm, this engine does two things at those rpm's. 1) That is 'lugging', which damages rings and pistons with premature wear. and 2) more incomplete burn and a higher level of blow by (exhaust going past the piston rings) will occur.
An example of my driving technique for city driving: at 35 mph, I will downshift to 3rd gear and keep rpm's above 2200 rpm. Although the engine will pull the vehicle in 5th gear and somewhere around 1,000 rpm, that is what causes your issue. Don't do it.
In my Passat, with the Tiptronic transmission, the transmission is set at the factory to upshift too quickly. In order to make it properly shift, you have to 'put your foot into it', as under very light acceleration, you will find shift points well below the 2000 rpm I suggest. Instead of driving the engine aggressively to meet proper shift points, I will paddle shift quite often, most particularly when driving in the city. Now, I don't mind if the engine is running 1500 rpm as you idle down the street, but if you jump on the accelerator to speed up, paddle shift down so you accelerate in the proper rpm range. Your intake will stay cleaner and your engine will last longer."
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=496474&highlight=oil
I contacted Franko6 by email, and he sent me the following reply:
"I've found that the BRM has a regular and aggravating oil leak from the plastic elbow that attaches directly to the outlet of the turbo. It is a green Viton o-ring, which I wish were about .2mm thicker. The boost pressure will make it leak enough oil to make a mess and worse, it falls onto the cabin heater's hoses, causing them to swell or otherwise, go bad.
Until I find the correct o-ring, which seems like it's not going to happen, my alternative fix is to remove the plastic elbow, take out the o-ring. then thoroughly clean the elbow. Wipe a thin layer of High Temp RTV in the location where the o-ring seats. Let the RTV completely cure and reinstall the elbow, with the o-ring back in place. The extra layer of RTV will make the seal a bit more difficult to push into place and that is good. It will stop leaking.
As for items such as the Provent or the Alfdex, I did try to use a Provent. I found it awkward and messy. The cost, in my opinion, is high and the true value, low. I took the thing off and it's laying on a shelf around here somewhere.
The idea of taking that goop you separated out of the crank case vent and putting it back into the crankcase is not a good idea, in my opinion. It is exhaust gasses, water and a little bit of oil. The issue with the intake manifold will not be cured, as that is as much or more, the exhaust gasses which carry soot into the engine. I think the CCV that is in place is adequate, if the engine is driven correctly.
Every TDI engine produces some intake debris. The amount that will coat your intake manifold is much more to do with driving habits and engine rpm than any device you can put on it. In our own personal cars; one a '02 Jetta with the ALH and an '05 Passat with the Pumpe Duese BHW, we have never cleaned either the intake on the Jetta, which currently has over 250,000 miles or the Passat, which has about 140,000. The reason for our 'lack of cleaning' is we drive the engine in the appropriate rpm, all the time. This means down-shifting if the rpms will fall below 2000.
Although I realize there is a power band that is fairly healthy around 1500 rpm, this engine does two things at those rpm's. 1) That is 'lugging', which damages rings and pistons with premature wear. and 2) more incomplete burn and a higher level of blow by (exhaust going past the piston rings) will occur.
An example of my driving technique for city driving: at 35 mph, I will downshift to 3rd gear and keep rpm's above 2200 rpm. Although the engine will pull the vehicle in 5th gear and somewhere around 1,000 rpm, that is what causes your issue. Don't do it.
In my Passat, with the Tiptronic transmission, the transmission is set at the factory to upshift too quickly. In order to make it properly shift, you have to 'put your foot into it', as under very light acceleration, you will find shift points well below the 2000 rpm I suggest. Instead of driving the engine aggressively to meet proper shift points, I will paddle shift quite often, most particularly when driving in the city. Now, I don't mind if the engine is running 1500 rpm as you idle down the street, but if you jump on the accelerator to speed up, paddle shift down so you accelerate in the proper rpm range. Your intake will stay cleaner and your engine will last longer."
Thanks for the reply. That all makes sense, but why would almost all the seals go bad at once. It seems like there's more oil coming from the crankcase than there should be, but what would cause that. Are the rings going bad? It starts right up at - 20* C.
sptsailing
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jul 9, 2010
- Location
- Safety Harbor, FL
- TDI
- 2006 Jetta Manual, stock with Panzer Plate & Franko6 modified EGR cooler & CAM
Looking closely at my engine's original green viton ring gasket, I observed flattening at the contacting surfaces. Things age, and in the case of this gasket aging, I think that could explain a lot of it. I also see from Franko6's driving recommendations that my past driving style probably contributed a lot to my problems.