MK2 Project Beginning, From DSM's to Diesel

I've been reading through your forums for the past 5 months or so. I have recently aquired my grandfathers 1986 jetta diesel NA. Now in the past I've been a DSM'er (talon, eclipse, laser) my weekend car (back home) is a 1991 eagle talon TSI AWD,fast, amazing potential, however they arent very reliable cars for DD situations. The Jetta was bought brand new in 1986 by my grandfather, it was one made in germany. He is the original owner,a nd has all paperwork for any work done to the car via dealership.

The car only has 196,000 km (121, 520 m). However the floor is rusted through, aswell as the break lines. Engine starts beautifully and doesn't smoke (never has apparantly).

whats my best way of going about fixing the floors? I was looking over at POR 15, and considering their floorpan/trunk kit. Or should i weld in some new floor boards?

I plan on redoing much of the suspension components/engine components. Get ready for the AAZ! Canada Rocks!

exterior is mint,but things like the floorboards/brake lines need replacement. I plan on ordering from germanautoparts.com, is that the best VW diesel part site?

thx guys for all the great info. i've read so far, diesel has intrigued me..

I own 2 '92 TD's, but have never had to repair floor.
I had an '86, and the floor did perforate below the driver's side outside seat rail. I didn't repair, as car was headed to wrecker (gasser with 360,000 kms).
I have repaired the floor pan in numerous GM products, as when I was young and foolish in Montreal you could get low mileage cars very cheaply if you were prepared to live with rust damage.
In order to pass safety inspection, the repair had to be structurally sound, and airtight (exhaust). I always used sheet aluminum, about the same gauge as the sheet metal in the car. Usually I would cut a pattern out of cardboard or paper to fit the damaged area. Oftentimes I would end up with three or four complex origami structures. After cutting and folding the aluminum structures made from the paper patterns, I would test fit them into the car and adjust as necessary. Then I would cover the area where the aluminum patch attached to the steel floor woth fibrated roofing tar (glass fibres in it), press the patch into place, and attach it with pop rivets or stainless steel sheet metal screws. (Tar stops electrolytic reaction between steel, aluminum, and aluminum is easy to work with.) Finally, cover the complete underneath of the patched area with the same roofing tar, to avoid further corrosion.
I would check with your local licensing authority to make sure this form of patch is acceptable. I've safetied cars like this in several provinces, and never had any difficulty. Replaced all four footwells in an old Nova, and drove it for 5 years, no problems.
1.9 TD's have issues with the crank pulley getting wobbly on the end of the crankshaft, do 'search' for further info.
Help?