New Turbo and No Power

Hello. I am new to the TDI forums and stumped.
I have a 2001 VW Jetta with the 1.9 Diesel, 5spd manual and 130,000 miles
Recently while driving the turbo went out and I had it hauled home. I took it apart and found the turbo shaft broke in half. Ordered a new Cardone turbo off of Rock auto and installed it with a new aftercooler and changed the oil and threw a new air filter in.

Now though when you drive it, it is like the turbo dosent kick in to make any boost. Has no power and wont pull a hill over 40mph.

It kicked out code p1556 after driving it for a while which from what I found is a low power code basically?

I looked over the vaccum lines and they seemed normal. Then I hooked up a mighty vac to the turbo and watched the turbo actuator move. It seems to move correctly to me. Then took it for a test drive manually trying to run the turbo with no real difference and then just Teed the vaccum gauge in line to watch what the car tried to do. It changed the vaccum and pulled around 20 when starting off and then lowered it when trying to throttle it up a hill. So I am assuming the vaccum system is all good.

I then looked at the MAF which has some oil residue on it. From what I understand if you unplug it, it will change the paramaters to a default setting if its bad and run better. When I tried it, it ran about the same and then threw the P0102 code

I then unbolted the exhaust system in case the exhaust was clogged, but it made barely any difference.
Also double checked all the turbo clamps and they all are intact, so I dont think I have any boost leaks.

So what should I do?
-Im kinda tempted to try a new MAF anyway?
-Or is my probably chinese Cardone turbo made wrong?
-Or Option 3 ?

That code is for charge pressure control negative deviation. Could be caused by no vacuum being supplied to the turbo, or a very severe exhaust leak. Or a siezed turbo shaft. But I doubt that the car would barely run because it would act as an exhaust restriction.
I'd start by checking to make sure you have your vacuum lines plumbed correctly, and that you have vacuum at the turbo.

I'm alarmed by a turbo letting go at such low mileage. I've got 306 on a 2000 and I believe it to be original...tired but original.

I second the idea that your vacuum isn't plumbed properly or your actuator rod is way out of adjustment or a split boost boot...the 2000 had a split boot when I bought it and I think that's why it was as cheap as it was, it would throw boost code and I could hear it hissing.

I wouldn't start throwing parts at a problem when the arrows don't point in that direction. If you have access to vcds, do some data logging, requested boost and actual boost

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Also check your intercooler for excess oil (from the previously failed turbo). And if there's oil on your MAF, replace your air filter and MAF.

A plugged intake will cause that code. Pull the egr and have a look down into the intake. If it needs cleaning don’t try and do so without removing it. You’ll run the risk of getting chunks into the engine.

There is a cleaning write up in the tdi 101 section.

Of course the new turbo is suspect I would not use a Cardone on my car. Cardone is often reman and a reman turbo usually doesn’t last to long.

I did some more testing on the Jetta today.
I forgot to mention earlier. The PO deleted the EGR, but the intake looked pretty clean when I had it off to check the turbo.

Tried installing a new MAF today. It seemed slightly peppier, but still doesnt have the power it should and drops speed on hills.

Double checked my vaccum lines today too. They are ran properly, and going to the turbo control solenoid it has 27" of vaccum. Then when I T my vacuum into the out port it has around 20" and varies as I drive it. So I am thinking the vacuum system is all good.

I looked over the turbo boost hoses today, and they all look good, but I will probably end up pulling them all off again this weekend to be sure.

-Where is the best place to get VCDS?
-Any other ideas?

We'll pretend that turbo is at least functional.
Disconnect the vacuum hose at the turbo and connect the mitivac, adjust the rod on the turbo actuator so it just starts to open at 3.5 to 5 "/hg. Then observe the thing when you start the engine, it should move all the way over.
You can purchase VCDS (VAGcom, older) about anywhere, be sure you get the real one and be sure it's licensable, the older VAGcom will work fine, but the licensing is different. Ross Tech is a great place to buy from, they have some slightly lower prices with limits based on VIN.
And some for sale here.
I disagree with the conventional wisdom that you must have the device, you only need it occasionally, so if you can find a friend locally to borrow from, that works. In 10 years of TDI driving, I've found most every problem came down to mechanical knowledge/skill. You do need it to set timing, and it does many other things. I bought one, cause it's jut way cool.

I did some checking on the actuator. It just starts to pull the rod over at about 3" vaccum and pullis it all the way over onto the stop by about 18". So that seems correct. Boost pipes all looked good.
Anyone ever have to reset the stop for the turbo actuator?

I was talking to a friend of mine and he has an old turbo that he changed off his 1.9 TDI because it burned a little bit of oil. I think I`m gonna try installing it before I order the vagcom just to rule my chinese turbo out...

You should look at this from another perspective. Your original turbo failed at 130K miles, which I agree is shorter than average life for an OE VNT-15. Odds are something is going on in your boost system that caused that turbo to fail. You've installed a new turbo, but the issues that caused your first turbo to fail may still be present.

Best approach is to run a boost log with VCDS. You've already determined that the actuator is working properly. Assuming that the turbo is good (Cardone is a rebuilder, not a manufacturer, I believe, but let's assume this turbo is OK), then you need to identify why it's not boosting. Incorrectly routed or holed vacuum lines, faulty N75 valve, plugged catalytic converter, faulty anti-shudder valve on the EGR, cracked intercooler or other boost leak...there are any number of causes. There are some good threads here on diagnosing limp mode, use one of them.

It's important to keep in mind that fault codes are symptoms, not a diagnosis. Good luck.

!!! I HAVE BOOST !!!

So I swapped my friends old turbo onto the Jetta today. I took it for a test drive and all is good now. It boosts correctly and has that cool little whistle back.

I looked into the Cardone brand too. I guess there is two divisions. There is the Cardone that I got my New china turbo from and then there is the A-1 Cardone that remans turbos.
Either way this has been an expensive head ache of a lesson for me that has taught me to NEVER buy cheap crap chinese turbos.
Thanks

Glad you got to the bottom of it, I wonder what was up with the Cardone turbo... Maybe vanes not reassembled properly.

you can get bad turbos occasionally from any brand.

its bad luck but the only way to test them is to fit them

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