'84 Toyota Truck 1Z TDI Swap

Clutch Chaos




New 1600 lb HD clutch from Marlin Crawler is here.

Seco SCTY-255/47567HD.

Thanks Jaysin, I was debating whether or not to do that. When jimbote was here, we found lateral play in that bearing to be within limits, but I sure don't want to do this again, and I have the time, so I'll check into it.

Wow, sweet project just up the road from me.

Cummins- when you get it back together, would you be interested in giving me a ride around the block in it? I'm looking to do a ALH or AHU in a CJ-5.

Dan99TDI said:

Wow, sweet project just up the road from me.

Cummins- when you get it back together, would you be interested in giving me a ride around the block in it? I'm looking to do a ALH or AHU in a CJ-5.

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Just do it!! I have an AHU in my samurai. I love every second of it!!

Dan99TDI said:

Wow, sweet project just up the road from me.

Cummins- when you get it back together, would you be interested in giving me a ride around the block in it? I'm looking to do a ALH or AHU in a CJ-5.

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Dan99TDI, of course. I aim to have it on the road again this week. Spending the weekend putting it all back together with new adapter plate, clutch, throwout bearing, front bearing retainer & seal, etc.

cumminsfromthecold said:

I aim to have it on the road again this week. Spending the weekend putting it all back together with new adapter plate, clutch, throwout bearing, front bearing retainer & seal, etc.

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Yeah!! It will feel good to have it back on the road, I know I feel great having mine up and running again. Please let me know how that adapter works for you.

Jaysin

New Adapter Plate Installed

Removed pilot bushing - hammer in grease, launch out pilot bushing. Slick. (thanks jimbote!)



and the flywheel and oil filter and installed the new jaysinspaceman adapter plate. Reinstalled pilot bushing with the new one from ACME, which is the same diameter but 5mm shorter. The old one appeared to have no wear and actually measured the exact same ID and OD as the new one.
Flywheel remains unscathed during clutch fork and throwout bearing thrashing around, so that's good.






Tranny is ready to go on tomorrow. I did a very light greasing of splines with high temp wheel bearing grease. Very light, but even. I've foregone replacing the input shaft bearing, as it, too, is well within lateral play limits.



A note on the 1Z's flywheel bolts - 15mm bolts, 3 stage torquing, as I understand it. 1st to 22 ft lbs (in star pattern). 2nd to 44 ft lbs. Finally, turn from 44 ft lbs 90 degrees. I do this rather seldom, so anyone wanna confirm this? Hopefully have it all in the truck by tomorrow night.

Ready!


Here's a shot you don't see often - the end of the transmission's input shaft in the pilot bushing:



This part of northern CA is forecast to have a "66% chance of an above average winter." El Nino's going to leave snow mainly up high this winter. Looking forward to it!

Ha! Next time I'll post bigger pics...

I for one can't wait for that El Nino weather. And I also look forward to seeing your truck back on the road.

Jaysin

looking good Ronnie... and looking forward to the results...as for the flywheel bolts if you're using oe tty bolts then that is the correct spec ... if using acme bolts i believe the torque may be around 65 ?... someone please chime in if im wrong

The truck has been back on the road and driven daily for two weeks jaysinspaceman gets beers forever, pretty much, for getting me that adapter plate. I hope my install did it justice. The clutch and all gears feel great. Snow we're getting allowed for some 4 hi and 4 lo fun, and that's all working great, too. I'm very happy and even more grateful.

My old push-pull steering box is leaking still, despite the Dextron 6 fluid swap. A hi-steer kit is next - sick of that steering system.

I visited a friend here with a 2014 Land Cruiser built by SMP Fabworks down in LA (where I actually happen to be, momentarily, with my wife who is recovering from hip surgery - the 2 weeks leading up to this have been nonstop).

Here's his burly, de-badged, tank of a machine beside my old tool-hauling beater


He told me about the VW GTD he had in Europe and how fun (and efficient) it was.

Aiming for some silly AWD snow driving/drifting pics here in the next week or two.

I am very glad to hear that everything is back up and running. I have to say that there isn't much that is as good as a Toyota pickup with a TDi engine.

I did mean to ask you a question though. When I first got my truck up and running with the Acme adapter I noticed that when I stepped on the clutch it made a fair amount of noise, like a low pitched whining sound and now that I have the new (centered) adapter in place that whining sound is gone completely. Is this something you noticed as well?

If you have any more questions about the adapter let me know.

Thanx,
Jaysin

jaysin, I have not noticed this. I like to think I am pretty attuned to the truck's workings - my wife would say I'm more on edge. My coolant temp guage remains my nose - I can smell heat . I will listen carefully for it, though. What do you think it is, in your case?

What I meant is that with the old Acme adapter I had a noise when I stepped on the clutch and now that the Acme has been replaced the noise is gone. I believe that the noise that I heard with the Acme was the throw out bearing as it was wearing into the clutch fingers. It doesn't make any sounds now so don't worry about trying to listen for it. I don't want you to be any more "on edge" then you might already be.

Jaysin

JaysinSpaceman said:

What I meant is that with the old Acme adapter I had a noise when I stepped on the clutch and now that the Acme has been replaced the noise is gone. I believe that the noise that I heard with the Acme was the throw out bearing as it was wearing into the clutch fingers. It doesn't make any sounds now so don't worry about trying to listen for it. I don't want you to be any more "on edge" then you might already be.

Jaysin

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i noticed roaring noise and intermittant vibration before centering my acme plate ... i just always thought it was input bearing wear on a multi 100k trans... noise and sometimes vibration is now gone after the centering

Yeah. Mine only made noise when I had my foot on the clutch pedal, even if I was just resting it there between shifts. When I depressed the clutch the sound became a lower pitch grumble. Now that it is all centered, quiet.

Thanx for your input Jimmy.

Jaysin

With my foot resting even just very lightly on the clutch pedal (which I no longer do, and about which I am forever gently reminding my wife not to do ) I did feel a light vibration. Contact was being made with the clutch splines, perhaps just a little, perhaps more than I knew.

That does now seem to be gone. Right now, though, it's hard to say, because with all this snow, there is serious AWD rallying happening!

Thanks to you both, and others here, for your invaluable input and assistance throughout the year.

Hey man where did you tap into for your starter solenoid signal the little one that clips on the starter? since I've removed my old 22re the only answer I get about where that comes from is the switch?

Small Wire to Starter Solenoid, '84 Toyota 1Z TDI

I used the only black/white wire coming from the emissions control box on the passenger's side. I'd have to dig deeper to see what this is again, but that's what works. See my post #160
and those later on.

Note that my truck's VIN declares it's a 4Runner, and this has caused parts confusion at the dealer and elsewhere before. For example, the transmission to transfer case gasket is different between the '84 4Runner and this particular '84 truck, so I had to run to the dealer a couple of times for that confusion. I never found an '84 factory manual, but what did help me a lot were Mitchell Repair diagrams - for both the 97 Passat and the 84 Toyota -, which I got down at the local Napa Auto store.

Quick update - been tending to the little power steering box leak. Dextron 6 didn't stop it. So for the last month, I have been trying Lucas Oil's stop-leak. A lot of reading found enough testimonials to convince me to try it - it's apparently stopped some very badly leaking PS pumps and boxes, so I'm giving it a shot.

Otherwise, Diesel torque + 4wd + snow = great wintertime fun

Flash

Just wondering if you had to flash the ecu or not?

I didn't, thankfully.

250,000 miles



30,000 miles on the swap. Came up Donner Summit (at 65mph) with 100 gallons of biodiesel in the back on a nice cool night (keeping EGTs low) - stopped at the breezy rest area and snapped the pic. Got curious looks from some tractor trailers I passed on the way up.

Only pulled the engine and trans twice in 5 years!

New Rancho RS9000XL 8-way adjustable shocks all around vastly improved ride comfort and also allow for loading the thing up with tools, lumber, firewood, whatever. Should not have waited so long. I overthought the issue and thought it was too-rigid springs or bound shackles.

Power steering leak going away thanks to the Lucas stop leak.

Need tie rod ends (had them sitting here since 2011 ) and a steering knuckle ball joint something or other. But that's only on rutted highways over 65mph.

Nice!
Do you have a pyrometer,if so what's the average temp when not pushing it?

Yes, pyrometer here at this altitude stays comfortably around 500-700 I'd say.

Nice,thanx,
Lots of hills where I'm at, probably wouldn't hurt to install one.

Losing oil pressure ~ 5 minutes after starting

Truck has been running strong until the last couple of weeks, when oil pressure has soon dropped to reading "Lo" on my gauge. Theoretically it shouldn't drop below 26psi / 1.8 bar, and it typically doesn't, but it now does so regularly. I also discovered a recent low coolant situation, and so that bums me out.

So probably a failing head gasket - but is there any other way to test to see if the oil pickup has stopped working? This aspect of the motor I have not worked on before. I have replaced the intermediate shaft bearings and rebuilt the vacuum pump, maybe 20k miles ago. I'd not done that before, but it worked - oil pressure displayed as being over 80psi on startup, as it always has, and then hung out in a reasonable range during operation.

Any insights welcome.

could be a worn oil pump or the pump relief valve is hanging open... or time to upgrade to an ALH

1Z/AHU Oil Pump

Thanks Jimbote!

How can one tell if the pressure relief valve is faulty? The Bentley shows it to be oh so small and ordinary looking. I see the special tabbed washer on which it sits, though.

I see Kerma offering this:
http://www.kermatdi.com/oil-pump-028115105g-febi/

I'll pull it apart this weekend and explore. Taking dimensions seems like a lot of work, and for $100, since I'm in there, a new pump makes sense.

sorry to hear about your oil pressure issues with the 1Z. I had some oil pressure issues with my 1.6td, and I tried a new pump, but to no avail. I dont think the pumps generally wear enough to cause issues, but its probably worth a shot. You could also try replacing that seal inside the vac pump shaft, that could theoretically leak some pressure. https://www.idparts.com/vacuum-pump-bottom-sealing-washer-ahu-1z-p-3842.html

Now that you have had your truck for a while, do you think a stockish (tuned) TDI is adequate power for a 4x4 toyota?

I really want to put my ALH into a first gen tacoma for my next daily, and I would like it to be 4x4. This would be my daily, and I drive a lot over hilly terrain etc. Are you satisfied with the grunt of a TDI in a heavier vehicle?

I have experience getting good horsepower out of a TDI, but I want to keep the engine fairly stock for longevity sake in the truck (130hp maybe?). I love that I can beat my mk4 all day long and it survives. I have not had as much luck with my highly modded AHU in my audi. Need to be more careful with that one, or things break.

vtpsd said:

sorry to hear about your oil pressure issues with the 1Z. I had some oil pressure issues with my 1.6td, and I tried a new pump, but to no avail. I dont think the pumps generally wear enough to cause issues, but its probably worth a shot. You could also try replacing that seal inside the vac pump shaft, that could theoretically leak some pressure. https://www.idparts.com/vacuum-pump-bottom-sealing-washer-ahu-1z-p-3842.html

I'm going to look at that. Is that accessed from the top or bottom?

Now that you have had your truck for a while, do you think a stockish (tuned) TDI is adequate power for a 4x4 toyota?

I do. I have 31x10.50 BFG ATs, a lumber rack or camper shell on, and live at 6000', but my ~ 130hp suffices. Chip tune, cone filter, PP520s, no EGR, 2.5" exhaust with resonator only.

I really want to put my ALH into a first gen tacoma for my next daily, and I would like it to be 4x4. This would be my daily, and I drive a lot over hilly terrain etc. Are you satisfied with the grunt of a TDI in a heavier vehicle?

Yep


I have experience getting good horsepower out of a TDI, but I want to keep the engine fairly stock for longevity sake in the truck (130hp maybe?). I love that I can beat my mk4 all day long and it survives. I have not had as much luck with my highly modded AHU in my audi. Need to be more careful with that one, or things break.

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You will dig it. Find someone with one and check it out sometime. Good luck!

1Z TDI low oil pressure

So, new valve cover, oil pan gasket and oil pump. And sure enough, no change. Runs for 10 minutes and then pressure's effectively gone to 0.

vtpsd, I'd bet you're right on and that I should have taken care of that when I was in it from down under. Should've looked at tdiclub! Anyone else experience this?