Motor mount inspection and replacement

So I searched and got 40 hits on motor mounts, but most seem not so helpful. I'm going to do my 60k service soon and I always pull the bottom cover to inspect stuff down there.
Is there a thread or 3 that will guide me on R&R if they need it?

You could look at the balance shaft module replacement pdf and just do what's shown on pg 7, 9, and 10. Ignore the bolt for the transmission line in the picture on page 9.

From there you only need to unscrew the top bolt of the motor mount to remove.

Look for a red stain or red liquid (if a fresh leak).


See the hole with a metal collar around it in the picture above (about 2 o'clock)? Make a note of where that is located in the backet on the bottom side before disassembly.

I've replaced the mounts without lowering the subframe. It is not easy. You have to support the engine, lift it up as much as possible. The right side is nearly impossible. The left side is very difficult and required unbolting the bracket from the engine too. You also have to unbolt the front mount (torque limiter) bracket from the engine front to allow the engine to be lifted, or put the front of the car into service position.

It is quicker to support the engine and lower the subframe (as done in the BS module replacement) then undo the nut on the top to remove. Make sure you install the new one with the collared hole located in the same position during installation. The top side of the mount has "ears" that fit into slots on the bracket attached to the engine.

Thanks to both responses and the good advice. I'll inspect in the next week or two during the oil change and go from there.
Anything else to look for besides CV boots and leaks while I'm there?

Name this part

Good news and bad news. First the good; I could not find any signs of leaking from the motor mounts.
Now the bad; I did find a large rubber plug looking object just laying near the turbo though. It's 4.25" in diameter, a little over 1" thick on the outside with about a 1/8" thick diaphram wall. It has a part# 038106278A>EPDM<
What is it and where does it go?

abctdi said:

Good news and bad news. First the good; I could not find any signs of leaking from the motor mounts.
Now the bad; I did find a large rubber plug looking object just laying near the turbo though. It's 4.25" in diameter, a little over 1" thick on the outside with about a 1/8" thick diaphram wall. It has a part# 038106278A>EPDM<
What is it and where does it go?

Click to expand...

Could that be the rubber cover that covers the hex bolts on the front of the vibration dampner (harmonic balancer)? Later!

Harvieux said:

Could that be the rubber cover that covers the hex bolts on the front of the vibration dampner (harmonic balancer)? Later!

Click to expand...

Yes, if he misread the part number which is 038 105 278 A for the cover.

Yup, it is a 5 and not a 6.
I had pulled off the top timing belt cover, which had a loose clip and thought it might fit there, but it didn't seem correct.
Is this part very important to reinstall?
Thanks guys.

It will keep the harmonic balancer bolts from corroding. Very difficult to install without pulling the lock carrier into service position.

Thanks again MOGolf.
Good thing I live in the desert...I think I'll wait until I do the TB and water pump. Sound like a good plan?

My left mount (drivers side) is leaking, and so I plan on replacing it when I have the lock carrier in service position for a camshaft replacement next week.

MOGolf notes above that it can be done (although difficult) without dropping the subframe. This is my plan, I have a good engine support, so should be able to lift the engine, and remove the mount bracket from the engine.

Are these engine brackets bolts TTY ?? I have the B5 Bentley on DVD, but cannot find a diagram of the engine mounts anywhere ?? and no torque values ??
I found a good assembly drawing in VAGCAT, shows bolts as N 0147236 M10x30... but some are M10x40 combi ? but again no torques or 'replace' info for the bolts.
What am I missing ?! why is none of this in Bentley ?! or am I looking in the wrong place ?

The engine bracket bolts and the subframe bolts are tty and removing only the bracket bolts will not lower the mount brackets because the front subframe bolts also hold it. Here are torque values and my notes: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q_how_to/b5/motorMount.htm

Thanks, excellent write up, I forgot to check your site, sorry !
I am still a little confused.. I think I may have names/terminology mixed up.

My plan was to support the engine, remove the M8 nut from the top of the old rubber mount, then carefully lift the engine. From what I have read, the engine cannot be lifted enough, so I was also planning to remove the bracket from the engine (the bracket that mounts to the top of the mount).
VAGCAT listed these bolts as M10, but shows two different lengths.. 30mm and 40mm ? what torque ?
And, if you don't mind me asking, where did you get your torques from ? as I still cannot find any mention of these mounts in my Bentley.
Once the engine bracket was out of the way, I can changeout the mount..
I would like to avoid dropping the subframe, don't want to get into alignment etc...

You won't be able to move the bracket completely out of the way. The thermostat housing/radiator hose are in the way on the left. Turbo is the obstruction on the right.

MOGolf.. Thanks.. I was hoping to not hear that... but you are no doubt correct.

I guess I am going to have to drop the subframe.

Be careful with the subframe. Oilhammer can give you good instructions on doing that. But if you drop the subframe you need some SST guide pins to get the subframe back in alignment when you bring it back up.

Those pins are shown in the PDF of the BS replacement procedure, too.

What happens if an engine mounts is leaking (drivers side). And I plan to drive it say 700miles before getting it fixed? Any catastrophic risks? I reached down into the engine to get a tool I dropped when changing the oil filter and my hand had an oily red liquid on it which I'm assuming came from the engine mount.

While its being replaced, is there anything else I should think about having done that would be cheaper to preemptively replace now?