98 New beetle ALH died on freeway

I'm a self teaching repair noob. Using youtube mostly.
My car is a new beetle, it died on highway. I pulled over. It would crank, not catch.
Just before this, a mechanic had advised me to replace the turbo as it was making a high pitched whine when engaged, and the vnt actuator was jamming. It was also recommended that I clean out the intake manifold.
So, after it died on the highway I figured I'd check the air/spark/fuel. When I cranked it, it would crank but not fire up. I checked for air pull from the hose that leads to the egr/intake. No pull. So, I guessed no air. So I figured I'd clean the intake and replace the old turbo. While I was at it, I put in new oil, oil filter and fuel filter.
Well, that is all now done. Still cranks but won't kick over. I pulled fuel through the filter, and thought I'd check pump prime, but first I tested air pull. No air pull when cranking from hose that leads to EGR. Anti Shutter valve is open and moves freely. Egr is clean and all moving parts move using mighty vac.
I suppose I can tow it to a shop, but I thought I'd go to whatever is next recommend by you all.
Latest advice is to check the compression.
On that rout, what is an inexpensive compression test tool for NewBeetle TDI ALH. I have O'Reilly, Napa, Harbor Freight etc near me. Maybe I can borrow one, but maybe then again not for diesel.
Or..
Is there anything else I should check?
A year ago a shop told me cost to fix all the problems with my car outweighed the price of the car, but my late dad used to fix his cars, so I decided to fix it myself. Much has already been fixed. Seems more to go...

Little background given on this vehicle. How long have you had it? How many miles on it? What is the service/maintenance history on it? When was the timing belt last changed (and who did it)? How was the engine running before it decided to not run? What was done prior to this stoppage event?

Not sure how you're determining there's no air getting to the engine. If the ASV is open and nothing is blocking the intake then air is not your problem.

Fuel or timing issue is more likely the issue. I'd want to feel like my feet are firmly planted on the ground before going off on any long troubleshooting adventures- I'd want to KNOW that the static timing is OK (do a search on this; pretty much identifies whether the timing belt and all associated components are within operational spec).

Quick, low-hanging-fruit, stuff would be:

1) 109 relay (getting Glow Plug light coming on? do you hear the injection pumps initial QA sweep? [kind of a high pitched whine when the ignition is switched to ON]?);
2) Is there fuel getting to the injectors? (loosen up a line and cranking engine should produce a healthy volume of fuel)

I'm not certain that you haven't lost prime, in which case that may be THE issue right now (it's hard to separate previous issues with any current ones). Test #2 (from above) would help determine whether you have or don't have prime. But, I don't think it too wise to keep flogging without knowing the underlying health (that static timing is OK- if it's not then you can make things take a huge turn for the worse).

So... Air, fuel, timing and compression These are the things that affect combustion. 109 relay is responsible for the fuel shutoff valve and power to the IP (QA [Quantity Adjuster] also being key). If it tests fine then it could be a loss of prime on the IP. BUT, I have no idea whether something drastic has not taken place, in which case caution is advised (I'm NOT going to assume that the static timing is OK).

Sorry for any formatting errors.

I’m thinking no air suction, because when I take the hose that goes to the EGR and unhook it by the fuel filler, I have my gf turn the car over while I clamp my palm over the end of the hose. As it cranks I feel no suction. I tried the same on our working beetle and it quickly pulls strong suction on my palm.

I was hoping it would be a clog in the exhaust system. But those may be the wistful hopes of a noob.

I don’t know anything about timing belts, or static timing so I’m off to youtube. I’m hoping it’s not a timing issue. O.O That will mean my journey is just beginning… lol


It runs on quality biodiesel. Professional biodiesel since we bought it.



12/08 112,566 Auto Shop Glow Plugs Fuel filter

02/11 133,100 Auto Shop Timing Belt 038109119P, rollers,
water pump Serpentine belt, Fuel Filter

02/11 133,125 Auto Shop Mass air and air filter

04/11 134,412 Auto Shop Inter cooler replaced (cracked on
pothole.)

09/12 147,046 Auto Shop Fuel filter

04/13 154,839 Auto Shop Fuel Filter, Fuel filter return hose

12/13 160,648 Auto Shop Clutch replaced

04/14 Self Air Filter ————

01/15 172,420 Auto Shop Starter replaced.

09/15 Self Oil filter ————
12/15 Self Control arms, driver drive axel, Front brakes
rotors, calipers and passenger steering knuckle

06/16 Self Front Struts
01/17 Self New battery
12/17 191,170 Self Clean out intake manifold and EGR New Turbo charger

Current mileage : 191,170


Records are mostly complete. Some of the oil changes not recorded.
The Auto shops were cheaper than dealer but more expensive than other
local shops. All have good rep.


Car was driving fine. Turbo started to while while engaged. About a month before
it stoped it briefly went into limp mode on highway, threw a turbo code, then resumed
normal function.

Good vw mechanic smoked it, finding no leaks, and tried to find out where whine was coming from. He was not 100% that turbo was sound, but thought it was most likely. He pointed out that VNT was sticking. I also assumed turbo, as it whined when I assumed turbo would engage and cycled up with engine load.

Upon pulling the old turbo, the turbo shaft was a little wobbly, the VNT vanes seemed scorched and there was a little damage to air propeller.

I think next for me is check timing before anything else. Just to make sure. That sounds like worst possibility, and I should not mess around till I check that.

Sorry, forgot to mention, when I turn the key to on, I hear a click from FP and then a soft whine.

and thank you for responding.

Even though a new timing belt is rated for a 100k miles, they also have a time limit, depending on who you talk to, of between 5-7 years. You’re at about 7 so you definitely need to check the timing.

My 05 quit on the road, a small stone or something got into the belt path and stripped off 8” of teeth. Inspect the belt, make sure it’s tight and intact. Check the timing.

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/a...nt-vw-jetta-tdi-golf-beetle-1998-2003-part-1/ Plus part 2 and 3

http://pics3.tdiclub.com/pdf/a4timingbelt.pdf

These two links show the timing belt replacement and how to set the engine at TDC to make sure the timing is correct.

When you turn the ignition does the glow plug light come on? If not this may be as simple as a 109 relay. $15 part and back on the road in 10 minutes.

Since this happened right after you replaced the turbo go back through and make sure you hooked everything back up properly.

I hesitate to fix more than one issue at a time. For instance just the turbo and then the fuel filter and anything else after it’s running again from the turbo replacement.

Do you recall hearing any noises before the engine died/stopped? Any chance you had a bit of a runaway? (turbo was known to be bad)

Are you getting anything happening at the tail end of the exhaust when cranking?

When checking ASV function how sure are you that it's not closing up on you? (wire it open?)

Forgot to respond to your question on compression testers... Harbor Freight is fine; not the most accurate, but the key concern tends to be deviation between cylinders. Sometimes these units have bad Schrader valves from the git-go; just replace it if that's the case.

If you are not getting suction at the EGR and the antishudder valve is open then I would be looking at the cam/crank timing.
Your timing belt was changed ~6 years ago...the part number you listed in the first post is a belt for a later PD engine. I don't know how that could even work on that car with the proper tensioner for a 98 Beetle. That belt would be way too wide to fit not to mention way too short to wrap around the IP.
Something is fishy right there. Sure about that number? If you can still read it, what brand name is on the belt?

Sorry, but can you clarify what kind of engine you have? This is a diesel forum, but you mention that you wanted to check for spark, and that you hear the fuel pump when you turn the ignition on, which your car should not have if it's a diesel.

yahjnby said:

Sorry, forgot to mention, when I turn the key to on, I hear a click from FP and then a soft whine.

and thank you for responding.

Click to expand...

Guess I'm a bit perplexed by that, as are some others, because if it's the '98 NB in your signature, it doesn't have an electric fuel pump (unless someone has done some mods) so the noises aren't from the "fuel pump". If it's a 2004 PD type, or newer, then it would have an electric lift pump. Maybe that would explain the part number of the TB also??

jettawreck said:

Guess I'm a bit perplexed by that, as are some others, because if it's the '98 NB in your signature, it doesn't have an electric fuel pump (unless someone has done some mods) so the noises aren't from the "fuel pump". If it's a 2004 PD type, or newer, then it would have an electric lift pump. Maybe that would explain the part number of the TB also??

Click to expand...

I thought he was talking about the whine from the injection pump that indicates that the QA makes it's initial sweep.

Thanks guys for the ideas and links.

I'll recheck that my glow plug lights come on, but I'm pretty sure they did.

I should have said noise from Injection pump not fuel pump.

I don't remember anything weird happening around when it died other than what I stated above. Just quickly lost power then died.

I did not wire anti shudder valve open, but I had my hand on it while girlfriend cranked car and it did not move. Also, nothing from exhaust when cranking.

The timing belt number came off invoice from mechanic. But I'll eyeball belt when I get a look at it.

I think I'll check the timing first. After I study up on the particulars of how to do that. Sounds easy enough. Hand crank engine clockwise till you get to TDC. Actually wrangling everything will be the fun part.

If the timing is good I'll unhook the exhaust downpipe and see if it turns over then. Boy, I'm hoping the timing is still good. lol. Otherwise I have a real project car on my hands.

jettawreck said:

Guess I'm a bit perplexed by that, as are some others, because if it's the '98 NB in your signature, it doesn't have an electric fuel pump (unless someone has done some mods) so the noises aren't from the "fuel pump". If it's a 2004 PD type, or newer, then it would have an electric lift pump. Maybe that would explain the part number of the TB also??

Click to expand...

IP QAs do a full voltage sweep when the ignition is turned on. It's really a sound you have to know to listen for as it's very subtle (but I suspect dogs can pick it up better than we humans).

Can you access the ecu? What are the faults? Does the glowplug icon on the dash blink on briefly with key on? This tells you ecu has booted. These cars had sockets and chips installed in the past and may have a bad chip or such and cause it to die suddenly.

Yep, glowplug light comes on for a sec then off. Don't have a code reader atm, but will probably get a cheap wifi one soon. I don't have any auto computer skills atm, but I may need to fix that.

Over the weekend I will tussle with checking the timing.

Thanks all.

I run Ultragauges (Scangauge is another popular one). Great for monitoring a bunch of functions (I watch fuel economy, engine temp and boost) PLUS catches engine (and transmission -0lm) codes, and can clear them.

If one is intending to work on these cars then it's pretty much mandatory to have VCDS. It'll pay for itself in very short order.

Last time the fuel filter was changed was in 15 and your running bio? Fuel filter clogged.

indysoto said:

Last time the fuel filter was changed was in 15 and your running bio? Fuel filter clogged.

Click to expand...

Time has no bearing on fuel filter life. It's total volume filtered that matters. Service interval is specified in distance because it's figured that is really the only way in which one can approximate total fuel use, total fuel filtered.

Have another brownie!

Always rule out the most obvious, simple problems first.
That being said, I noticed op said in post #1 he just replaced FF.
I was looking at his service records that did not include the most recent changes.
Who cleaned the intake and how did they do it?

UhOh said:

Time has no bearing on fuel filter life. It's total volume filtered that matters. Service interval is specified in distance because it's figured that is really the only way in which one can approximate total fuel use, total fuel filtered.

Have another brownie!

Click to expand...

The filter can get trashed by less than one tank of bad fuel.

Another thing is the insides of the IP.
This car ran fine until one day that it didn't:

I cleaned intake with screwdriver, coat hanger and power drill, and oven cleaner.

yahjnby said:

I cleaned intake with screwdriver, coat hanger and power drill, and oven cleaner.

Click to expand...

On the engine or when removed??

The Good news is...I know what problem is...

The bad news is...

jettawreck said:

On the engine or when removed??

Click to expand...

LOL When off the engine.

Well, I guess the next step is to try and figure out if I got lucky, or if, more likely, the engine is el toasto.
Not sure what is next step for that.

Pull the valve over and look for spider web cracks on the lifters......I'll bet that you do and the head will have to come off to repai it.

Ouch. Pull the valve cover and do as Steve suggested. I would guess that you’ll have to at least replace the head. You’ll need to measure piston protrusion to determine if the rods are bent.

yahjnby said:

The bad news is...

Click to expand...

This was my first inclination for the issue but it seemed as though perhaps it had maybe been looked into already because there was no mention of it from anyone.
99% of the time there will be some valve and lifter damage, usually exhaust valves/lifters are the first to suffer the abuse. Typically the rest of the engine is fine but need to check things out as you go.
Now perhaps some forensics to determine what caused it. Seldom does the belt fail on its own. I'm guessing at a seized WP.
Suggest you contact member Franko6 for head/valve repairs when you get to that point.

So, replace the fuel filter?

jettawreck said:

This was my first inclination for the issue but it seemed as though perhaps it had maybe been looked into already because there was no mention of it from anyone.
99% of the time there will be some valve and lifter damage, usually exhaust valves/lifters are the first to suffer the abuse. Typically the rest of the engine is fine but need to check things out as you go.
Now perhaps some forensics to determine what caused it. Seldom does the belt fail on its own. I'm guessing at a seized WP.
Suggest you contact member Franko6 for head/valve repairs when you get to that point.

Click to expand...

If we are putting money down, my money is on a roller. Notice that the back side of the belt is worn rather than the teeth being stripped.