2001 Golf Alignment Pulls to Right

G

Gto7784

Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2019
Location
Connecticut
TDI
2001 Golf
2001 Golf: Fresh suspension components all within last 2 years to include:
- Koni Yellows and H&R Sport Springs (new strut mounts at same time)
- All new control arm bushings
- New ball joints and tie rods
- New Steering Rack
- New front wheel bearings
- New Calipers on all 4 corners
- New axle beam bushings

My car has a pull to the right. Not a sticking caliper. Not a tire issue as I have swapped sides and even had new tires installed.

It is not bad in the left lane on a 3 lane highway but other than that it pulls right.

For the life of me I can not find a shop who will touch the camber adjustment. I recently paid for a lifetime alignment from Firestone. Here is the printout:



Shop manager says there really is no caster or camber adjustment although the subframe can be adjusted but he will NOT touch the subframe bolts to try and get the caster/camber in spec .In Firestones "defense" none of the other shops I have gone to will touch it either.

Is this kit something I would need to get my car driving straight?

https://www.urotuning.com/products/...r-kit-per-side-spc81340?variant=8384790954039

Can anyone explain if the printout represents why it would be pulling right? I'm assuming since I still have a lot of areas in the Red that it is contributing to the right pull. Or.... is my car just this sensitive to road crown? I am constantly having to drive with the pressure to the left on the steering wheel otherwise it will drift right.
 
Last edited:
STDOUBT

STDOUBT

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2007
Location
Portland, effing Oregon
TDI
dos jettas
T

TLH_TDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2003
Location
Florida
TDI
2002 Jetta Wagon
The kit may not help, as these cars get older the subframe may begin to shift, even back and forth as you brake or accelerate. May need to just replace the subframe bolts and bushings. On mine after replacing these parts I just pulled the subframe backwards using a ratchet strap in the middle of the subframe and then tightened and torqued the bolts, (these are TTY), and then took it back for alignment and all was well. The caster angle was a little less than ideal, but it was fine. With less caster and toe in the tires last longer.


Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
 
G

Gto7784

Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2019
Location
Connecticut
TDI
2001 Golf
TLH_TDI said:
The kit may not help, as these cars get older the subframe may begin to shift, even back and forth as you brake or accelerate. May need to just replace the subframe bolts and bushings. On mine after replacing these parts I just pulled the subframe backwards using a ratchet strap in the middle of the subframe and then tightened and torqued the bolts, (these are TTY), and then took it back for alignment and all was well. The caster angle was a little less than ideal, but it was fine. With less caster and toe in the tires last longer.


Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
I see. Just seems odd that the one side has the camber issue. Car hasn't been in an accident. Connecticut roads are less than ideal... actually they are downright awful and I have certainly had some cringe moments where I hit a pretty big crater. Maybe the control is tweaked on that side?

Just trying to find a game plan here instead of blindly replacing parts. I wish the shop could pinpoint the issue but I guess it may be a blind battle. With that all said, do I:

A. Purchase the camber correction kit and hope for the best?
B. Replace subframe bolts/bushings but even then, Firestone aint gonna touch it so how will I know where it needs to be on the re-install?
C. Replace left side control arm?
D. All the above

STDoubt thanks for the shop suggestions. I will give them a call as a "last resort" if I cant find someone a tad more local
 
Last edited:
T

TLH_TDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2003
Location
Florida
TDI
2002 Jetta Wagon
Start with the bolts and bushings, and one slight addition to the instructions, with the bolts and bushings installed but loose and the ratchet strap pulling back on the subframe, tighten and torque the rear subframe bolts, release the ratchet strap, and then tighten and torque the front bolts. There are no obvious signs that the subframe has moved other than not being able to align it or for it to hold the alignment. Until you are sure that the subframe is not moving, anything else would be a waste of time.


Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
 
T

TLH_TDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2003
Location
Florida
TDI
2002 Jetta Wagon
Hard braking while hitting pot holes or hard stops, such as parking space bump stops, is probably the cause for the subframe shifting, although it takes a while.


Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
 
T

TLH_TDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2003
Location
Florida
TDI
2002 Jetta Wagon
Gto7784 said:
2001 Golf: Fresh suspension components all within last 2 years to include:
- Koni Yellows and H&R Sport Springs (new strut mounts at same time)
- All new control arm bushings
- New ball joints and tie rods
- New Steering Rack
- New front wheel bearings
- New Calipers on all 4 corners
- New axle beam bushings

My car has a pull to the right. Not a sticking caliper. Not a tire issue as I have swapped sides and even had new tires installed.

It is not bad in the left lane on a 3 lane highway but other than that it pulls right.

For the life of me I can not find a shop who will touch the camber adjustment. I recently paid for a lifetime alignment from Firestone. Here is the printout:



Shop manager says there really is no caster or camber adjustment although the subframe can be adjusted but he will NOT touch the subframe bolts to try and get the caster/camber in spec .In Firestones "defense" none of the other shops I have gone to will touch it either.

Is this kit something I would need to get my car driving straight?

https://www.urotuning.com/products/...r-kit-per-side-spc81340?variant=8384790954039

Can anyone explain if the printout represents why it would be pulling right? I'm assuming since I still have a lot of areas in the Red that it is contributing to the right pull. Or.... is my car just this sensitive to road crown? I am constantly having to drive with the pressure to the left on the steering wheel otherwise it will drift right.
Click to expand...


Did you replace the top strut bushings?


Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
 
G

Gto7784

Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2019
Location
Connecticut
TDI
2001 Golf
T

TLH_TDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2003
Location
Florida
TDI
2002 Jetta Wagon
T

TLH_TDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2003
Location
Florida
TDI
2002 Jetta Wagon
I would think that solid mounts would transfer more suspension noises to the car.


Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
 
T

TLH_TDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2003
Location
Florida
TDI
2002 Jetta Wagon
From looking at your alignment report you may need to replace the bushings and bolts and torque it to the initial starting specifications and then get it to the front end shop and have it checked and maybe have the bolts on the subframe loosened and it shifted forward for more caster, or backwards for less. Never have seen the caster less like yours is showing, could be because of bushings being worn out. After the caster is set, then do the initial torque again and then add the additional turn required for the TTY.


Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
 
I

IndigoBlueWagon

TDIClub Enthusiast, Principal IDParts, Vendor , w/
Joined
Aug 16, 2004
Location
South of Boston
TDI
'97 Passat, '99.5 Golf, '02 Jetta Wagon, '15 GSW
There are shops that will adjust camber by shifting the subframe. But most shops that offer lifetime alignments won't bother, because it's too time consuming. Look for a shop that sets cars up for track duty including corner balancing, and I bet they'll do it. I think equalizing the camber will help a lot with the drift.

Another option is to oval the ball joint bolt holes so you can shift the bottom of the wheel in to get rid of that negative camber. But I think it's harder to find someone who'll do that than the subframe shift.
 
PakProtector

PakProtector

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2014
Location
AnnArbor, MI
TDI
Mk.4's and the Cummins
As IBW suggests, you need a shop that will do the job right. They are not cheap...but worth it IMO. It sounds like a new set of subframe bushings would help, and I'd not do solids...first step stiffer aftermarket would be as far as I'd go. Then follow TLH's instructions with the final TTY after getting the settings right.
cheers,
Douglas
 
G

Gto7784

Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2019
Location
Connecticut
TDI
2001 Golf
Before I go installing new subframe bushings, I need to find a shop willing to do the subframe adjustment.

Today I stopped by my local VW dealer. Service manager was nice enough to chat with me for awhile but no-go. I explained the situation and showed him the alignment printout. He stated they could play with it but it's not something normally needing adjustment so something has to be bent. Not very confidence inspiring. Won't be going there.

There is a good local VW/Audi performance tuning shop who does alignments. Going to give them a try...
 
turbovan+tdi

turbovan+tdi

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 23, 2014
Location
Abbotsford, BC.
TDI
2003 TDI 2.0L ALH, auto, silver wagon, lowered, Colt stage 2 cam, ported head,205 injectors, 1756 turbo, Malone 2.0, 3" exhaust, 18" BBS RC GLI rims. 2004 blue GSW TDI, 5 speed, lowered, GLI BBS wheels painted black, Malone stage 2, Aerotur
Check ride height, if even, then you probably have a bent knuckle or control arm, left front. Caster is close but with the camber being so far it, its causing a pull. Toe is way out as well.
 
G

Gto7784

Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2019
Location
Connecticut
TDI
2001 Golf
Update: Car is aligned properly and drives straight!

Went to Excelerate Performance in Branford, CT. Great atmosphere there. They utilized new stretch bolts and were able to shift the subframe to equalize both sides. They said the OEM bushings still appear fine.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top