New project: Golf Mk4 PD TDI 4motion 6-speed

Im sure Ruben can fix the welds, Its a easy fix, just weld it again with a tig with enough amps and dont add to much material. Hope solar flux is fine, else backpurge is no problem, all you do is connect a hose and let the money(gas) blow up 5-7lit/min is enough with only a few small holes in the tape or what you use to cover the holes.

Long story short: exhaust manifold didn't pass QC. I will make a new one. The only parts that can be used are the flange itself and the collector.

Ruben welded parts of my D24 tonight, too. A pain in the rear to weld nasty cast, but form follows function. The cone was rolled out of 1.5mm thick alloy sheet. 2x 1/8" NPT threats for boost and IAT sensors.

Never seen shuch a crap welds in my life on the exh manifold. I don't say I am a good welder, far from. but this was really mind blowing. on the inside there were slags from about 8mm thick here and there. alot of the welds one could not reach from the inside so no way to remove them, it flows like **** and even worse if one lets loose byebye turbine wheel..

Fabian, show the tits

(these where not made on purpose but purely neccessary as there were some area with I think sand or other impurities in the cast manifold which really turned into an evil vulcano when the alu got warm trying to achieve a nice pool)

Rub87 said:

Fabian, show the tits

Click to expand...

There you go



Really disappointing I spent money for welding of the exh manifold... Not to speak about time and material I invested getting it prepared and designing the pipes.

Titten raus!

The D24 intake looks very well prepared

Is this the best sensor position? ...because there is not so much airflow at the of the intake.



@Rub87:
Could you weld another intake, too? ...I have a Golf MKVII water intercooler for my PD130. It need to be weld on the intake manifold. I search somebody with good enough welding technics ... money for your work should be not the problem

cycleracer88 said:

Is this the best sensor position? ...because there is not so much airflow at the of the intake.

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I suppose that they are not measuring the airflow.

TheoSweden said:

Im sure Ruben can fix the welds, Its a easy fix, just weld it again with a tig with enough amps and dont add to much material. Hope solar flux is fine, else backpurge is no problem, all you do is connect a hose and let the money(gas) blow up 5-7lit/min is enough with only a few small holes in the tape or what you use to cover the holes.

Click to expand...

This was way beyond fixable.. also wonder why its rusting when it should be stainless??

My god!!

Another case of B/S and a quick buck made!!..............Imitation stainless better known as mild steel

Do you think it's a matter of the wrong steel or bad welds? I have to order new bends anyway and will choose another supplier if I got mild instead stainless steel

Fab176 said:

Do you think it's a matter of the wrong steel or bad welds? I have to order new bends anyway and will choose another supplier if I got mild instead stainless steel

Click to expand...

Check with a magnet
That's the worst weld i have seen for a looooong time

It's stainless.

Sad thing is I paid money for welding this

I got a nice Golf Mk5/6 GTI upgrade FMIC.



It's roughly 50mm thick and full-size. With a few mods I put it into my standard PD115 front mask, replacing the OEM Mk5 GTI FMIC.





Using Mk4 .:R32 fans.



Tight fit

Beautiful intercooler! Good upgrade!

Interesting turbo

Fab176 said:

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This turbo looks very interesting for a TDi engine .
Can anyone provide a code for this turbo. I am interested to start a similar project.

That is Borg Warner S200V, dont know that part number.

I have little bigger S300V (S356V) for sale if you need turbo for 320-420bhp.

Stock S200v compresor is a bit useless as the inducer is about the same as that in a 2260vk =)

there are altough nice wheels available to upgrade it and the turbine is quite healthy sized

I finally managed to continue working on parts to finish my project car.


First draft of my downpipe. Pretty much a similar setup like many Audi S3 8L upgrade downpipes.


Starting with 3" diameter right from the V-band flange with a reducer to 2.75". Otherwise I had problems going past angular drive. I decided to us an Audi S3 8L exhaust support as my TDI didn't have on before catalytic converter.


Building the intake snorkle.


Tight fit


Starting with a 90mm pipe right from the airbox. Selfmade flange to replace OEM MAF housing. Reducing to 76mm turbo intake. Unfortunately, the big Touareg brake booster consumes more space than the OEM Golf Mk4 one.


Upgraded my rear rotor to 310x22mm Phaeton rotors. Re-drilled to 5x100 with center rings and a simple adaptor to move the OEM caliper to the right position.


Fender flares painted and installed. I had to cut the original wheel arches and weld them. Overall I gained another 30mm per side.


No chance to hide the Golf Mk5/6 GTI FMIC


I got a pair of Porsche Cayenne 4-pistons rear calipers as a bargain, so I couldn't resist to buy them. I sandblasted them and painted them red. New gaskets etc are ready to be installed. They will be used for the rear axle. A friend CNCs a set of adaptors that allow using the 4-pots as regular hydraulic brake. But due to the fact they don't have any handbrake-capability, I have to use the OEM calipers as handbrake calipers. Another option is to use Audi R8 calipers, but they are around 750€ a set. Thats more than I paid for my 6-pots and 4-pots together.

I didn't take pictures of the boost pipes yet. They are made of 65mm alloy. It's a little diffcult to find the best way to connect turbo out with FMIC in - I put the pipe across the gearbox now.

More to follow soon.

Looking good Fabian

Fab176 said:

I got a pair of Porsche Cayenne 4-pistons rear calipers as a bargain, so I couldn't resist to buy them. I sandblasted them and painted them red. New gaskets etc are ready to be installed. They will be used for the rear axle. A friend CNCs a set of adaptors that allow using the 4-pots as regular hydraulic brake. But due to the fact they don't have any handbrake-capability, I have to use the OEM calipers as handbrake calipers. Another option is to use Audi R8 calipers, but they are around 750€ a set. Thats more than I paid for my 6-pots and 4-pots together.

Click to expand...

Interested in more details on this as I'm working on the same conversion for my car. Haven't figured out the ebrake yet. My buddy has a dodge viper ebrake caliper to use, but still have figured out how to route the cable based on the adapter he currently has.

That sure is turning into a nice toy with all those sweet parts! A bit more than €587.50 Only design feature I would be concerned about is the long hard-pipe off the airbag allowing little flex when the motor pulls back under load. Will that short piece of silicon hose give you enough flex to allow the airbag to stay in place?

Some words on warning. Be prepaired to put an external wastegate flange somewhere in your exhaust manifold. I got my s200 hybrid with GTX style 50/72mm compressor running in my Audi 3.0. With vanes fully open and 83mg injected its boosting over 3bar at 4000rpm.

It will boost creep later on a 1.9 than on a 3.0 but for sure this is the risk when upgrading the comp wheel (too) much on a VNT turbo

To me 50mm compressor mated with 56mm turbine sounds like a reasonable match. With 2.5bar boost emp was about the same. With 3bar it was still under 4bar. I will install an external gate next week and see how it really works.

You Finns are all some crazy boostards *lol*

hatemi said:

To me 50mm compressor mated with 56mm turbine sounds like a reasonable match. With 2.5bar boost emp was about the same. With 3bar it was still under 4bar. I will install an external gate next week and see how it really works.

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Sounds like a reasonable match indeed, but what is the A/R of the turbine housing? No way predicting the turbine choke flow from just the turbine exducer.

It would seem to be pretty small A/R after all. And the vanes have limited movement that wont go near the max open (ie, nozzle tips closing on turbine wheel) postition.

hatemi said:

Some words on warning. Be prepaired to put an external wastegate flange somewhere in your exhaust manifold. I got my s200 hybrid with GTX style 50/72mm compressor running in my Audi 3.0. With vanes fully open and 83mg injected its boosting over 3bar at 4000rpm.

Click to expand...

83mg is nothing for that turbo , I made one this weekend with 76mg at 4k, stock turbo just dpf delete and 1.7 bar.. Top end felt really good for just a 2260.. Lambda 1.15..

With the s200v we have one can open the vanes so much till they touch the wheel, is it also the case in yours Hannu? Ok missed your last post. maybe the vanes can be slightly shortned so that they can open further? How is the spool on a 3l?

For some reason this turbo wont open the vanes nearly enough to be able to hit the turbine wheel. There might be some limiter for max open position in the CHRA. With the turbine side dissasembled, the vanes can surely open so much that they could make contact wiht the wheel.

With this file and stop screw setup I get 1 bar just after 2100rpm. 1.7bar from 2450rpm. After that the vanes are fully open and the boost keeps on climbing. 2bar at 2900rpm, 2.7bar at 3600rpm. With around 2.9bar boost I get 3.2bar EMP at around 4300rpm.

BTW I found out I have some air mass limiter still in place. MAF values are pretty much the same as they were with stock turbo and 1.6bar...