Dropping exhaust / downpipe

garciapiano

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2018
Location
Southern California
TDI
1997 Jetta TDI (1Z)
Hi all,

I am interested in installing my 02J shift box, but from a preliminary inspection I see no easy access to the downpipe to turbo nuts without removing the EGR cooler. Has anyone found a way to do this without disturbing the assembly?
 

Mongler98

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Location
COLORADO (SE of Denver)
TDI
98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
you should be able to get to the down pipes bolts from below the car.
If your feeling a bit lazy about it, just cut the down pipe and install 2 clamps and a coupling, assuming your exhaust is not rotted out!
 

garciapiano

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2018
Location
Southern California
TDI
1997 Jetta TDI (1Z)
For reference I didn’t have too much trouble getting the downpipe off. It certainly requires you to go through the bottom and doing it on your back sucks. Amazingly I was able to properly torque the downpipe back on with fresh gasket and nuts by removing the battery and using a few extensions to reach over to the turbo.
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4 (sold), '97 Jetta (scrapped)
Removing the battery helped for access? I’m amazed none of the studs snapped.

-Todd
 

garciapiano

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2018
Location
Southern California
TDI
1997 Jetta TDI (1Z)
PB Blaster works wonders.

Removing the battery was more to get my head down in line with the downpipe studs to get line-of-sight to get the socket on. So yes, it can be done from the top, but there is definitely the potential to strip a soft copper nut with all those extensions.
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4 (sold), '97 Jetta (scrapped)
Penetrating oil works wonders when given time to work. I usually think about it when I start a project and rely on the torch.

Those nuts are only copper coated. If they still fit a 12mm socket properly, they may have been replaced at one time. I find original exhaust hardware is usually rusted away, to the point that I’m hammering smaller sockets on, to get a proper bite.

-Todd
 

ToBiN

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2017
Location
Colorado
TDI
2013 Sportwagen TDI/M6; 2006 Dodge 3500 Cummins/M6 Mega Cab; 2011 Jetta TDI/M6 (sold)
Has anyone ever heard about using Coke to loosen rusted nuts? Have you wondered why that works?

I'm with ToddA1 on the torch. Have used the torch many times to save nuts and bolts from snapping into pieces, but only after trying Coca-Cola or Pepsi.

Little known fact - Coke, Pepsi, and other sodas have Phosphoric Acid in them. When Phosphoric Acid comes into contact with Iron Oxide (rust) it immediately changes the composition to Iron Phosphate. Unlike Iron Oxide, Iron Phosphate does not stick and aids in releasing the nut from the bolt without breaking it.

My son and I used this trick to get the drums off his 1972 Chevelle that had been sitting in Kansas since the mid 80s. We tried most everything beforehand and then remembered "Grandpa" telling us about Coke on rust. When we sprayed the lug studs and center hub with the coke, let sit for about 30 seconds, maybe a minute, and the drum almost fell off the car. We were so shocked we did the same on the passenger side. Pulled on it with the slide hammer first and it didn't move. Sprayed the lug studs and center hub with coke and the passenger side came right off as well.

Forget penetrating oil to get things off. Use it to put the nut back on for lubrication. Or put on some anti-seize to prevent rusting of the threads.

Easier life through chemistry.
 
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