The "What did you do to your B4 today" thread...

iluvmydiesels

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2015
Location
phila area
TDI
AHU
im not really 100% aware of what you refer to as when the valves were changed.
i have a few AHU heads. all have the two spring set up, yet my year is listed for the later spring. single, outer, ALH type. perhaps retroed by mfg in years since.
all the valves i find now are AHU & ALH compatible if i understand correctly. 7mm stems.
i just wanted to be clear while im ordering the last of my parts, and before assy of a head.
i will probably go with the single ALH springs, and get new retainers as well, not locks or keepers, of course i have them, the spring top retainers. not 100% sure if the part# i have is for both the single spring set up and will accept an inner spring as well. part# i have ends with 641 C.
thanks,
oh and ty corpus for that thread size.
 

Sprocket

Sprockette's hubby
Joined
Nov 18, 2004
Location
MI
TDI
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit Eco Diesel, 2005 Passat Silverstone Grey, 1996 Passat Storm Grey
1z & earlier AHUs (I believe) had 8mm valve stems. They were later changed to 7mm valve stems.
 

iluvmydiesels

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2015
Location
phila area
TDI
AHU
so the (other) concern i have. in finding the timing idler roller. i ve tried a few places, spent a few extra bucks, and now have a few extra rollers. the roller from VW, *-- one i happen to have, its quite a good bit thicker than the INA rollers currently available. napa i think a few weeks ago had 2 rollers listed, one for $27, turned out to be the thinner INA roller. they i think had another listed @~$44, this one disappeared, i cannt find it, the $27 one became now ~$34. so in trying to find a more 'stock' thicker one, now i have more than a few in my stock. i went to VW and asked them, they want $79 for one!! part# 028 109 244 B. i think the INA # is the same. yet the INA roller the outer part is quite thinner.
any place that a more affordable thicker roller is available?
 

iluvmydiesels

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Nov 21, 2015
Location
phila area
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AHU
^huh, i stand corrected
i looked back at napa web site. the roller listed price changed. this part# is now $44. so as it was a few weeks ago i cannt say for sure. as i bought one roller for $27, got it, it was the INA, looked back roller was now ~$34, bought one, it too was INA, look now roller is listed @$44. idk.
the napa part# listed is with out the 'B'.
its: 028 109 244. so its not the latest part(#).
 

iluvmydiesels

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2015
Location
phila area
TDI
AHU
seems i have 2 topics going
The spring change probably coincides with when the valves were changed.
1z & earlier AHUs (I believe) had 8mm valve stems. They were later changed to 7mm valve stems.
what sprocket points out is what i was thinking. then again i think i ve heard of AHUs with 8mm valves, never seen one. i cannt really find 8mm valves that are supposed to fit AHU either. perhaps they have been phased out.
i can find 7mm valves, and if i take it correct 7mm valves fit AHU and also ALH(??). all the heads i ve seen are dual springs. thats an AHU(older) set-up. having checked with VW the current spring called for is a single, looks to fit the ALH. the older and softer AHU outer looks to be hard to find available. ALH spring not so.
looking at kerma specs on the springs and set-ups they can use. the dual spring and the ALH single spring have similar values. the ALH has some more tension when the valve is fully open, and some less tension when the valve will be fully closed/or almost closed. the more tension when fully open is good for safety.
then again kerma also has a dual set-up. the inner AHU(older)spring, and an outer ALH spring. for higher tuned motors. esp with cams like stage 2 or 3.
as im mostly stock, with some power improvements i doubt i need the dual spring set-up. and i rarely red-line. just pull good power and low and mid range rpms. and have my mech timing right about on!.

i saw an older post about these springs, perhaps circa '06. one of the members posting was misunderstanding what was going on with the springs. he had thought with a single spring the spring would perform with less tension. i didnt update, and it seems an old member not online anymore. the single spring is stiffer, and is of a similar performance to the older dual set up.
 

Digital Corpus

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Location
Ontario, California
TDI
'97 B4 w/ 236K mi body, 46K mi soul
I bought a bag of 5, in that size. I probably got them from eBay.

-Todd
How'd they fit?

I have 2 pumps apart and o-ring tables are telling me to use bigger 63-64 mm ID or -144 o-rings for the dimensions I'm measuring. In a "static piston/cylinder" of the following:
Cylinder ID: 67.45 mm, 2.656"
Piston OD: 67.40-67.43 mm, 2.654-2.655"
Groove Depth: 1.85 mm, 0.073"
Groove Width: 3.05 mm, 0.120"

There is only ~0.25 mm, ~0.001" expansion of the aluminum over the steel/iron at the dimensions listed.
 

Digital Corpus

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Location
Ontario, California
TDI
'97 B4 w/ 236K mi body, 46K mi soul
How'd they fit?
I have 2 pumps apart and o-ring tables are telling me to use bigger 63-64 mm ID or -144 o-rings for the dimensions I'm measuring. In a "static piston/cylinder" of the following:
Cylinder ID: 67.45 mm, 2.656"
Piston OD: 67.40-67.43 mm, 2.654-2.655"
Groove Depth: 1.85 mm, 0.073"
Groove Width: 3.05 mm, 0.120"
There is only ~0.25 mm, ~0.001" expansion of the aluminum over the steel/iron at the dimensions listed.
K, so I'm not the only one to question this.

If you stretch a 60 mm x 2.5 mm o-ring to the 63.5 mm groove diameter of the pump head, aka 2.5", the chord shrinks to an effective diameter of 2.434 mm. For static applications it seems a compression of 18-25%. With a groove depth of 1.85 mm and a total compression height of 1.85-1.88 mm, this means you don't want an OD between 2.46-2.51 mm. There are tolerances to the chord diameter and ID of the o-ring too. Bosch's 60 mm x 2.5 mm o-ring seems to take this into account, but is sized a little bitty bit small. A SAE "dash" o-ring 142, 143, 144 and metric IDs of 62 mm and 63 mm all should fit, technically. If you switch to a square profile ring, then pick the smallest of the set, though you might get a pinched o-ring.

Sealing pressure is related to the hardness of the o-ring too, as you can see here and here.

Btw, https://www.marcorubber.com and https://www.allorings.com/ are likely the same company.

I cannot seem to find the thread about taking out the one M10 bolt on the back of one's IP and hooking up a pressure gauge to it. That thread had a handy graph that showed the case pressure vs RPM and I was hoping to utilize this in order to suggest a hardness rating vs dash number or metric size.

All of this is to say that though the Bosch spec'd size is correct, if you use alternative fuels, you may want to consider a larger alternative to help seal better.

Personally, I'm going to try something a little bit more exotic: FEP encapsulated silicone in a -143 size. I'll abuse it going between D2 and HPR, which is what has cause my current leak, to see how well it holds up. I've had no issues with my FEP lined fuel line with either fuel currently and since it gets brittle when stretched, I'm doing a size between the Bosch spec and the groove spec. If you want something better for cold weather without risk, -141 or -142 should be fine. Viton from McMaster only goes down to -15 °F.
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4 (sold), '97 Jetta (scrapped)
How'd they fit?

I’ll need to find the pack, to see if I used them. I remember opening at least 2 sealed Bosch kits, for that o-ring, and I may have been just trying to complete kits. I may also have been buying stuff, simply to buy stuff.... I have a bad habit of doing that.

If you’re finding the o-ring size from a Bosch cut sheet, I wouldn’t hesitate to use it. Even the Bosch o-rings were a slightly tight fit. Any sloppier, and you may be cutting it, as you install the head.

-Todd
 

Digital Corpus

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Location
Ontario, California
TDI
'97 B4 w/ 236K mi body, 46K mi soul
I’ll be installing it off the car. I have done a few to know they can get snipped easily and I plan on lubing them and going slow. Thanks for the notes though.
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4 (sold), '97 Jetta (scrapped)
I found the bag, and I never used any. The size is 65 x 2.5. They’re green and were adver as Viton.... don’t remember where I got them from.

If you want to try one, send me your address, and I’ll toss it in the mail.

-Todd
 

Digital Corpus

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Location
Ontario, California
TDI
'97 B4 w/ 236K mi body, 46K mi soul
All good. I trust the size and source and have a spare Viton one here. Maybe Bosch went undersized due to the tight tolerances between the pump head and case?
 

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
Cleaned out the snow screen in the intake air box. Pretty sure it had never been done before because I found a 1cm thick "pre-filter" made mostly of what looked like hood insulation material. (Might make a nice mouse nest for someone; free for postage.)
You're in CA, you don't need the snow screen. I'm in Iowa and I pulled the one in my Mk3 when I first got it for having a pre-filter made of dead moth parts.

Steve
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4 (sold), '97 Jetta (scrapped)
Finally installed the interior trim in the B4V. Been in the back of the project car for months, as I was dealing with a leak on the driver side, dripping into a cargo tray. Started that project in August, and it’s finally completed.

FWIW, a lot of people use the adhesive backed felt from Walmart, on their air box blend doors. I used it on the back of the plastic trim panels, to combat vibrations. What I noticed, is the adhesive is breaking down, and some of the felt was falling off. I cleaned all of the plastic trim, with wax and grease remover, so I know it wasn’t failing because of contamination.

This stuff will definitely fail, on the blend doors.

-Todd
 

iluvmydiesels

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2015
Location
phila area
TDI
AHU
thats why in the blend door topic/sticky i use aluminum tape, i happen to have an older roll thats thicker, not as thin as the stuff you can find in walmart. i also put up in a post 3M super adhesive to use as a glue. works real good. not a general adhesive spray. should be permanent, as it need to be in the vent box.
you can double up the aluminum tape you find now-a-days, use the 3M adhesive on both layers.
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4 (sold), '97 Jetta (scrapped)
No additional adhesive is needed with the proper AL tape. The Nashua tape I used and linked, had a temperature range that exceeded what I believe our blend doors will ever see.

The insulation tape I linked, should also exceed the temperature range. I’ve used this stuff and it’s aggressive. ?-180°. I’ve used it to wrap a TXV, for my house and the cold never bothered it.

-Todd
 

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
In single digits temps with a nasty north wind managed to remove rear struts from a B4V GLX to get a spare set of coil springs. It wasn't easy and I had to break the bolt on the passenger side in order to get the strut out but I think it paid off, they look pretty decent for used springs. Perhaps they are newer, the struts were replacements so maybe the shop replaced the coils too?

They look pretty good anyway.

Steve

 

Wagone

Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2019
Location
CA
TDI
1996 Passat wagon
You're in CA, you don't need the snow screen. I'm in Iowa and I pulled the one in my Mk3 when I first got it for having a pre-filter made of dead moth parts.
Steve
Yeah I was thinking of just taking it out. Next time I change the filter I guess.

Today I cleaned up a set of factory BBS bottle-cap wheels and tires I bought to replace the wrong-looking and poorly-fitting aftermarket wheels that came with the car. (I'm sure they're fine for someone and some cars, just not me and mine. Look for them on Craigslist soon.) The tires on the car are 195/60R15, and with the offset spacers they need, the right rear rubs the edge of the wheel well every time I hit a big bump or am loaded up. Makes me cringe waiting for it to cut through the casing. The new set have the correct size 205/50R15 on them. And of course the correct offset. No rub.

If I'm not mistaken, the factory wheels originally had a BBS logo cap (mine are missing.) I'd be fine with something that just said VW. Any suggestions?
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4 (sold), '97 Jetta (scrapped)
IIRC, the lowly TDI didn’t get BBS... they were saved for the GLX.

-Todd
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4 (sold), '97 Jetta (scrapped)
I was getting bored of constantly adding air to Rotbox’s rear tire. The valve stem has been leaking since the summer. 6oz of Slime sealed one stem leak, but this one persisted.

Last night I broke the bead, cleaned up the garbage at the hole, then installed a new stem. Lubed the bead with dish soap, then blasted in air, which set the bead. Inflated to 50psi, then sprayed the bead, stem base and valve core with soapy water.

Leak free, at last...

-Todd
 

Wagone

Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2019
Location
CA
TDI
1996 Passat wagon
IIRC, the lowly TDI didn’t get BBS... they were saved for the GLX.
OK. No idea if they were factory option for TDI, but my car takes 5-lug wheels and the tires are the optional size listed on my fuel door sticker.
Not that it matters much to me, I just wanted something that wouldn't rub.:)
 

ToddA1

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Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4 (sold), '97 Jetta (scrapped)
Sounds like someone did a plus suspension conversion. B4 tdis were only 4x100.

What fuel does it list on the fuel door?

-Todd
 

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
Sounds like someone did a plus suspension conversion. B4 tdis were only 4x100.

What fuel does it list on the fuel door?

-Todd
They did manufacture some BBS in 4x100 for Corrado so they could have come from that, but BBS "bottlecaps" sound like maybe from a BMW E30?

He's in California. Wonder if it's a Nice Car.
That could be, they were good at that.

Having said that, in Europe the B4 Passat TDI with the AFN 110hp engine setup came with the 5x100 'plus' suspension and I believe that was the case with the Golf and Vento too.

Typical that in the US we always get the watered down versions...

Steve
 

iluvmydiesels

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2015
Location
phila area
TDI
AHU
i bought a NAPA compression tester, (diesel), not the most expensive, the gauge is nice. the glow plug hole adapter doesnt fit quite right. it threads in but bottoms out and the hex starts to get into the head. thinking i go to the store get some copper washers thread on/over adapter use the gm adapter, and see if it seals.
other than that would need to find an adapter that fits, seals, and fits the quick-disconnect.
the injector plug hole adapter fits 1.6s nicely.
 

Wagone

Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2019
Location
CA
TDI
1996 Passat wagon
He's in California. Wonder if it's a Nice Car.
I didn't buy it here but yep, 'twas. PO bought the "upgrade" from them, and spent a few years and not a few dollars dealing with the bugs. It's pretty well sorted out now. So far so good anyway.

Optional size listed on my fuel door is 205/50-15 on a 6J rim, which is what I bought. VW part number, 3A0 601 025A, standard wheels off a B4 GLX VR6 Passat (which, BTW, the guy I bought the wheels from is selling one such wagon as a non-runner. Wants $850, might be worth it as a parts car for someone....)
 
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Wagone

Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2019
Location
CA
TDI
1996 Passat wagon
Oh yeah, forgot to mention that this weekend I installed some turn signal repeaters on the front fenders. Makes me feel better about people seeing my dark little car when I change lanes on the freeway at night. Got the correct color-coded wires too, because I could, and it didn't cost much more than generical wires from my FLAPS. I managed to route them over the foam blocks in the fenders without having to remove the fender liners. Actually didn't have to remove anything but the airbox, under which I was happy to find the clip that was supposed to be holding my corner light on. So I put that back on and ditched the bungee cord that had been holding it.
 

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
Oh yeah, forgot to mention that this weekend I installed some turn signal repeaters on the front fenders. Makes me feel better about people seeing my dark little car when I change lanes on the freeway at night. Got the correct color-coded wires too, because I could, and it didn't cost much more than generical wires from my FLAPS. I managed to route them over the foam blocks in the fenders without having to remove the fender liners. Actually didn't have to remove anything but the airbox, under which I was happy to find the clip that was supposed to be holding my corner light on. So I put that back on and ditched the bungee cord that had been holding it.
You need to yank out those foam blocks...really, they will cause your car to rust. Even in dry climates I would get rid of them.

Oh and the repeaters are nice, I installed them in my B3V.

Steve
 

IndigoBlueWagon

TDIClub Enthusiast, Principal IDParts, Vendor , w/
Joined
Aug 16, 2004
Location
South of Boston
TDI
'97 Passat, '99.5 Golf, '02 Jetta Wagon, '15 GSW
Steve, his car is 23 years old. If the foam blocks were going to cause rust I would think they would have by now. :D
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4 (sold), '97 Jetta (scrapped)
I reinstalled the foam blocks, after having body panels painted and CC fixed. This had to be 5 years ago or more.

Last summer, I ended up doing rust repair, caused by the foam blocks, I reinstalled. Had to get more paint work done.

Yanked the blocks out of the other B4, soon after.

-Todd
 
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