From your Album(s), find the pic you want to Post.... Click on it. Then, scroll down until you see Share this Media.
for a tuned car, what the IQ "should" read at hot idle can vary wildly.... the tuner should specify for your setup (pump/nozzles). but changing "IQ" will generally just shift problems around, as it's simply adding/subtracting volts (duration) to the fueling map and it's usually not enough to fix any real problems, only very fine tuning. if you hammer up "+1mg", "40mg" (which might be 52mg in reality, all depends on tune and your hardware), now "40mg" is actually maybe 53mg in reality and "41.5mg" in the tune.. but this can vary quite a bit depending, again, on the tune... IQ can also be jumpy and there is some accuracy lost in trasmission of the real values to VCDS (rounded and send over 8bit then scaled up). for a factory tuned car, IQ actualy means something, and for a stock car, is probably right around 4-4.4mg. my wifes BEW with factory fueling, hot idle of 903 requires ~4.5mg to idle with stock timing.
Sheet of paper.My 06 corolla years ago i glued a wire mesh to the firewall where the cabin air intake was. If i find where that is on the beetle, its getting one too. #farmlife
I recently discovered (thanks to @burpod ) that a least some tunes can hurt fuel economy pretty badly. I removed the stage 3 tunes (with dynamic EGR) from my Golf and Jetta wagon and fuel economy jumped 5-ish miles/gallon. And most of the time I wasn't even taking advantage of the extra power that the tune provided, but it still hurt fuel economy. Just road tripping at the speed limit and I went from 47 miles/gallon to quite a bit over 50. Not sure if it was the dynamic EGR that was hurting or the potential extra power of the tune that was causing the loss of fuel economy. Of course, "Your mileage may vary."
i could tell you why
you could also be getting much better than 50 at the speeds i'm guessing you drive... but you know what needs to be done for that 
Thanks Moz, I learned something new! I've never seen an inverted torx that tiny, so it didn't even register as one. I probably would have replaced them with regular torx if I had known.....
Some also call them e- torx
Thank you AndyBees!
I'd get the kit from one of the supporting vendors here. Idparts and cascade german are some. They have the good quality kits and would have most everything you need for the timing belt change.
I get my ALH timing belt kits from germanoem.ca
I would also check to see if the drain holes are plugged - water has to leave the door somewhere.Haven’t been able to drive as I have had ankle fusion surgery…was finally able to get into a walking boot with Almost 11 weeks with no weight bearing and got to my 2000NB only to find the foot well behind the drivers seat full of water….destroyed a brand new heavy duty fabric tool bag…..ended up being a giant mold ball…not happy.
No sunroof…and yes the window was all the way up.
Pulled inner door panel and found marks in the dust like an old dry river bed towards the back of the door.
Pulled up door sill cover and found it all wet in line with the “ dry river bed “ resealed entire lower door panel to door with rtv….time will tell.
Normally I don’t don’t park on the grass , but due to surgery didn’t need to block up driveway with unused car so it’s sitting sideways with the drivers side facing uphill.
Heres a picture hopefully of the “dry river bed “
The door itself should not pass water to it's interior.
Drain holes are all wide open.
Or Roseland Tech, I used their kit on my ALH
Maybe filled up a jug for their generator, or just to have as backup?
why do people still use these Chinese pieces of junk! Not the first time I have seen this either. The n75 valve was really warm too. New pierburg on the way.
