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VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old March 15th, 2017, 10:10   #1
Lock_t
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Default Motor mounts

Looking to get a dog bone and possibly motor mounts, wondering if there's any recommendations where to get them and hardware without paying an arm and a leg. Was looking into febi mounts but let's hear whats good
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Old March 15th, 2017, 11:41   #2
AnotherPerson
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Mounts aren't that big a deal what brand you go with if yours are shot. Bolts, for the most part it's dealing with the dealer. Some of the vendors have them but your looking same price.


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Old March 15th, 2017, 12:10   #3
BobnOH
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Here's a list of vendors (work in progress) if you need that info=
www.dieselgeek.com
www.cascadegerman.com
www.idparts.com
www.metalmanparts.com
http://www.metalnerd.com/ (tools)
VW Dealership parts-
www.WorldImpex.com
www.1stvwparts.com
www.expressoemparts.com/
www.jimellisvwparts.com/
and more at
http://www.tdiclub.com/links/tdivendors.html
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Old March 15th, 2017, 12:26   #4
Dieselmonkey02
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Partsgeek.com, some decent prices.

ECS tuning; they carry a rebuild kit for the dog bone mount. It may be too stiff for your liking though. But it's about half the price of a new one.
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Old March 15th, 2017, 14:01   #5
hey_allen
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I bought a set of OE bushings for the big end of the dog bone mount from Black Forrest Industries for about $8.
I'm guessing that they were refitting OEM mounts with urethane bushings for sport applications and these are the left-over removed bushings.
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Old March 15th, 2017, 15:27   #6
Lock_t
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Thanks for the links and info, does anyone have the thread pitch specs on the bolts for mounts or dogbone? On BFI i found this: (doesn't include thread pitch)
N-905-970-05 10x70mm bolt (qty 1)
N-102-683-04 8x45mm bolts (qty 2)
N-102-466-10 10x30mm bolt (qty 1)

Hey_Allen are these the bushings you were talking about?
http://store.blackforestindustries.com/mk4oedore.html

Is this a viable option or replacing the whole thing better, thoughts?
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Old March 15th, 2017, 16:46   #7
hey_allen
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That looks like the ones that I bought, though I could have sworn that they were cheaper. Still cheaper than a whole set though.

From what I'd read here, and my experience with mine, the small bushings are very slow to wear, the large end is what takes the brunt of the wear and tear on the dog bone mount.

If you have a vise to clamp the mount in, just secure it, spin out the two bolts holding the old bushings, and replace with the new ones. Cleaning up the grimy mount is an option while you have it apart.

Make sure to keep the order and orientation of the bushings as you R&R them, but not a difficult task. I did it while I was changing the oil in my engine and transmission, replaced the bushings while letting the pans drain.
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Old March 15th, 2017, 19:32   #8
JDSwan87
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M8x1.25 and m10x1.5... IDPARTS has a good alternative Dog bone and has bolts too. Use an impact to remove them if you can, the quick snap will hopefully break them loose. I used and a ratchet on my first one and snapped the first bolt. Used an impact on the next 2 and they came right out.
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Old March 15th, 2017, 22:01   #9
Wilkins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lock_t View Post
Thanks for the links and info, does anyone have the thread pitch specs on the bolts for mounts or dogbone? On BFI i found this: (doesn't include thread pitch)
N-905-970-05 10x70mm bolt (qty 1)
N-102-683-04 8x45mm bolts (qty 2)
N-102-466-10 10x30mm bolt (qty 1)

Hey_Allen are these the bushings you were talking about?
http://store.blackforestindustries.com/mk4oedore.html

Is this a viable option or replacing the whole thing better, thoughts?
I replaced Dogbone mount on my 2005 and was unhappy with the non OEM stiffness in cold weather. I ended up using the big end mount from an aftermarket Dogbone and the rest is my original with the original big end bushing. The original big end mount was destroyed when I tried to remove it, not unusual if it has seen lots of salt. Using a small 3/8 ratchet the bolts sheared like butter inside the mount. Galvanic corrosion between the aluminum and steel eats the steel and causes the bolts to seize inside the mount. Once the mount was off I could almost remove the rest of the bolts with my fingers.

For some reason I never could figure out the new long piece of the Dogbone would not work with the OEM bushing. The engine sat in the wrong orientation and I had to reef on it to get the vertical bolt in. I had the Dogbone apart and back together in every orientation I could think of then when I went back to the original long end it went in like it was made to first time.

That said if you have cold weather to deal with I would seriously consider the OEM rubber from BFI in your existing Dogbone. Get a cheap aftermarket unit as well so you have options and parts to combine in case you shear the bolts. If the bolts shear the only thing you can do is cut it apart.
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Old March 16th, 2017, 09:27   #10
Lock_t
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDSwan87 View Post
M8x1.25 and m10x1.5... IDPARTS has a good alternative Dog bone and has bolts too. Use an impact to remove them if you can, the quick snap will hopefully break them loose. I used and a ratchet on my first one and snapped the first bolt. Used an impact on the next 2 and they came right out.
you're talking about these from idparts?
http://www.idparts.com/dogbone-mount...a4-p-1078.html
good tip, thank you, im hoping i dont have to deal with that but never know with these things..prep for the worst.
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Old March 16th, 2017, 09:35   #11
Lock_t
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilkins View Post
I replaced Dogbone mount on my 2005 and was unhappy with the non OEM stiffness in cold weather. I ended up using the big end mount from an aftermarket Dogbone and the rest is my original with the original big end bushing. The original big end mount was destroyed when I tried to remove it, not unusual if it has seen lots of salt. Using a small 3/8 ratchet the bolts sheared like butter inside the mount. Galvanic corrosion between the aluminum and steel eats the steel and causes the bolts to seize inside the mount. Once the mount was off I could almost remove the rest of the bolts with my fingers.
For some reason I never could figure out the new long piece of the Dogbone would not work with the OEM bushing. The engine sat in the wrong orientation and I had to reef on it to get the vertical bolt in. I had the Dogbone apart and back together in every orientation I could think of then when I went back to the original long end it went in like it was made to first time.
That said if you have cold weather to deal with I would seriously consider the OEM rubber from BFI in your existing Dogbone. Get a cheap aftermarket unit as well so you have options and parts to combine in case you shear the bolts. If the bolts shear the only thing you can do is cut it apart.
i do deal with cold and snow, ive read less than impressed reviews on poly bushings so ive been planning on using oem rubber ones. not sure whos idea it was to put steel and aluminum together but had my calipers strip out cause of that. but yea im thinking just getting a whole new dogbone may save a bit of frustration. thanks for the info! :thumbup:
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Old March 16th, 2017, 09:41   #12
Lock_t
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anybody opposed to the idea of just getting some US grade 8 spec bolts instead of the oem mount ones? curious if there would be a difference or reason not to
10x1.5 70mm bolt
8x1.25 45mm bolts
10x1.5 30mm bolt
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Old March 16th, 2017, 23:28   #13
joncfinney
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How do you know when the engine mounts need replacing/ is there some sort of interval? symptoms?
03 tdi
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Old March 17th, 2017, 08:18   #14
Lock_t
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Generally if the motor has a lot of shake, ive read/seen that you can pull the ebrake, put it in 1st slowly let the clutch out like halfway and the push it in and if theres a lot of motor movement they're no good.
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Old March 17th, 2017, 08:47   #15
BobnOH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lock_t View Post
anybody opposed to the idea of just getting some US grade 8 spec bolts instead of the oem mount ones? curious if there would be a difference or reason not to
10x1.5 70mm bolt
8x1.25 45mm bolts
10x1.5 30mm bolt
Not me.
Keep in mind that the VW bolts, if they are in fact stretch bolts, will hold better, as in won't back out as easy.
If you do use a standard SAE Grade 8, you'd use the maximum torque for those and not the odd torque sequence called for in the instructions.
To be on the safe side, most of us will recommend the stretch bolt.
Maybe one of the mechanics on here can recommend what they use.
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