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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW Passat Family (NMS and B7) TDIs (2012+)

VW Passat Family (NMS and B7) TDIs (2012+) Discussion area for the 2012+ Passat TDI (North American and rest of world versions versions). The North American model was previously codenamed NMS (New Midsize Sedan) and the version the rest of the world gets is sometimes referred to as B7.

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Old November 17th, 2015, 07:30   #46
c-wagen
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Searched the internet for the code, found this;

http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f9.../51876?page=13

Low pressure. The tank might not be properly sealed, or the pump is not working properly. Unistall and check if nothing is broken (some people reported breaking a connection when reinstalling. Good luck.
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Old November 17th, 2015, 15:19   #47
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Found the problem. I broke the nipple on the control module. Just my luck. I knew it was too easy. Another $365. It didn't buil pressure so it sen the code and the add fluid was due to it all leaked out. At least I know the problem. I did not remove the bumper. Only the 4 trim screws. I even markd the arrow. I now adjusted it as close to the inside as possible. It prob happened when I installed it the first time and forgot the foam. Still cheaper than the dealer and I will know next time. And there will be a next time.
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Old November 17th, 2015, 22:12   #48
Roger108
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Hi guys- new here. Replaced my heater per the error code, cleaned nox sensor both errors are now gone. I have 35 miles left in my def range. Drove it 4 cycles and reset the scr lock when the car prompts me that no restart... which gives me 35 miles def range every time I reset the lock. Total driven since heater replacement was 60 miles. Still getting Adblue warning. Any ideas or recommendations?

Also checked tank heater/ tank level in vcsd everything looks right. No more fault codes.
Also did the Adblue reset via the instructions in vcsd.

I'm stuck. Really appreciate the help
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Old November 18th, 2015, 05:51   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silvrmax04 View Post
Found the problem. I broke the nipple on the control module. Just my luck. I knew it was too easy. Another $365.......

Yeah, same scenario here. After replacing the heater I'm getting the p20e8 code and it says to refill my tank when it's still about half full. Like you said it was really easy for me as well. I re dropped the tank and I don't see anything broken, the connection to the nipple on the control module is very loose though but it is still attached and does seem broken. How do take that thing off to see if the nipple is broken? Maybe it is leaking air from a bad deal under the control module. Anyhow, away on business now and will revisit when I return.

Frustrating!

Last edited by kconnor123; November 18th, 2015 at 09:56.
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Old November 18th, 2015, 11:50   #50
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Thanks for the great Sticky! I was getting the P202A code and ordered a replacement heater from Keffer VW. It took two hours total to replace, including siphoning and cleanup. Great resource.
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Old November 21st, 2015, 16:07   #51
silvrmax04
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I replaced the module and all is good now. The add fluid wentbawaynin about 3-5 miles. Over 50 miles now and back to normal. I believe the module is actually a pump. If your hose is loose or not on it will leak and you will see the white crystal everywhere. Check all your wiring connections too.
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Old November 23rd, 2015, 11:00   #52
aullein
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So in what way is this new repair kit ( 7L6-198-970a ) superior or better than the old part (561198970)? Just curious if anyone knows if they found the reason why the old one was prone to fail??
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Old December 14th, 2015, 11:30   #53
kconnor123
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Ok my saga is over thank goodness. Turns out when i put the control module back on the new heater assembly i forgot to put the little tiny washer gasket on the smaller nipple thus it would not create a seal and i got the reductant low pressure p20E8 code. I disassembled and reassembled with the gasket and it still wouldn't clear the code and the countdown with low DEF continued.

I ordered a new controller(pump) and replaced it and viola! after about 1 mile of driving all was cleared.

I assume what i did was burn up the controller unit? When i didn't have it sealed with that little gasket. Funny, i was reading so much about the broken nipple problem i spent so much time ensuring i didn't break that i forgot about that gasket and ended up toasting the pump anyhow.

Oh well, ya live and ya learn. I'm about 650$ into it, still cheaper than the 1200$ the dealer wanted.
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Old December 18th, 2015, 06:59   #54
TDI_Brad
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Default How to: Replacing the Adblue Heater & Temp Sensor Module

I will have to give this a try. I have codes P205B and P20EE. Maybe this fix will clear both codes. Anyone else had P20EE for the SCR NOx catalyst bank 1 error?
Would a stage 2 tune deleting out the AdBlue system make this fix not necessary?

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Old December 26th, 2015, 18:17   #55
titleist1
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Angry Stupid plastic nipple

Quote:
Originally Posted by silvrmax04 View Post
Found the problem. I broke the nipple on the control module. Just my luck. I knew it was too easy. Another $365. It didn't buil pressure so it sen the code and the add fluid was due to it all leaked out. At least I know the problem........... It prob happened when I installed it the first time and forgot the foam. Still cheaper than the dealer and I will know next time. And there will be a next time.

I did the exact same thing....I had just replaced the sensor and checked it with vagcom before mounting the tank. Re-installed everything and realized I forgot the styrofoam. I broke it on the re- install with the foam in place.

Thought I was going to get away real cheap with just replacing the $10 thermistor but now I need the control module because of that stupid plastic nipple.
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Old December 29th, 2015, 10:10   #56
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Regarding this issue, my question is this:

Everyone states that if you live in the colder climate states you need to fix this issue to keep the adblue from freezing, what prevents the adblue from freezing when the car is not running, as I assume this is not always heating when the car is not running or on?

Kirk
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Old December 29th, 2015, 10:41   #57
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My guess is there's an time period after cold start that is allowed by regulation to get the emissions systems up to speed. AdBlue would be one of several things that have to warm up, as well as the cat converters and so on.

If I remember correctly, there's a small AdBlue tank near the injector that can likely be warmed quickly and begin injecting the fluid. That would allow more time to thaw out the remainder of the system.
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Old December 31st, 2015, 07:13   #58
titleist1
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"Everyone states that if you live in the colder climate states you need to fix this issue to keep the adblue from freezing, what prevents the adblue from freezing when the car is not running, as I assume this is not always heating when the car is not running or on?"

I had this same thought while reading the initial threads about the heater failure, nothing prevents it from freezing while the car is not running. I imagine the folks up north could have a nice 3-4 gallon block of frozen DEF if their car sat for a few days in the dead of winter. I wonder how long the heater in the tank would take to melt that.

My guess is VW doesn't really care about it not injecting any DEF while it is frozen until the heater kicks in and melts it. I imagine the fault codes generated were there to satisfy the fail safe requirements for the emission system not to ensure proper injection operation.
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Old December 31st, 2015, 12:43   #59
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Ordered the replacement pump from VW Vortex Sat night and it arrived yesterday afternoon. $354 plus shipping. Got it put in at lunch today and all is back together and working. I made sure to put an extra zip tie to hold that tubing pretty securely so it didn't pull on that plastic nipple.

I got about an extra gallon out of the tank too which made it easier to put back up without the fluid sloshing from one end of the tank to the other.

One note on the plastic bumper trim. Mine has three clips underneath across the back that have a torx head screw (smaller torx than the wheel well torx) that tightens & loosens the clip action. It was easier getting them in and out by backing out that screw a little. You don't have to take it all the way out.
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Old January 1st, 2016, 06:04   #60
TheGrove
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r90sKirk View Post
Regarding this issue, my question is this:

Everyone states that if you live in the colder climate states you need to fix this issue to keep the adblue from freezing, what prevents the adblue from freezing when the car is not running, as I assume this is not always heating when the car is not running or on?

Kirk
You don't need the whole tank unfrozen. As I remember the pickup is next to the heater so just a short amount of time will thaw enough to start injecting. As you and others noted it probably doesn't start injecting right away. There is a warmup procedure the car follows that is temperature dependent. I would believe that when it is cold enough extra fuel is injected to reduce the NOx and also get the engine warmed up quicker. Another item if you listen to the car when you shut it off you can her the pump sucking the DEF back into the tank so the lines are clear and nothing is in them to freeze. The lines are also heated so the DEF will flow to the injectors once it is started to be pumped.
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