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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW Passat Family (NMS and B7) TDIs (2012+)

VW Passat Family (NMS and B7) TDIs (2012+) Discussion area for the 2012+ Passat TDI (North American and rest of world versions versions). The North American model was previously codenamed NMS (New Midsize Sedan) and the version the rest of the world gets is sometimes referred to as B7.

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Old September 28th, 2015, 06:23   #31
Mark Neil
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It does fit, although with one modification.

The only difference (that I could see) was that one of the two wires (4 colored wires) was too short to make it to the plug where the NMS Passat needs it to be. Easy fix, cut off the old plug from the failed module, and used it to extend the too-short lead on the new module.

No problems at all.
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Old October 21st, 2015, 07:38   #32
TN2002tdi
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I'm I got the CEL at 87K. The dealer quoted me $1,100+. I paid them for the diagnostic and declined the repair.

I was thinking about bypassing the sensor but I found a replacement kit (7L6-198-970a) at expressoemparts.com for $211.79 last week. http://www.expressoemparts.com/oe-volkswagen/7l6198970a I had no issues with wire lengths in this kit. One wire was actually about 1" longer than the original. I also bought a 6L fluid extractor off Amazon for $50 to siphon the adblue from the tank before I removed it. It worked great and I can use it for easier oil changes in the future.

I put the RR of the car up on a jack stand and removed the wheel and the fender liner. The screws are T25 Torx. I decided to remove the bumper cover for easier access. I left the left side of the car on the ground and removed the 5 fender liner screws required to remove the bumper cover. There is one screw that's hard to get to but you can bend the liner back enough to reach it.

To remove the bumper cover you've got to remove the taillights so you can get to 4 additional T-25 screws. You pop out the covers behind the taillights in the trunk and remove the spring-loaded plastic butterfly screw. Then disconnect the wires after you pull the lights out some. You'll then see 2 T25 screws on each side that you need to remove to get the bumper cover off. Then you need to remove 3 plastic T-12 Torx screws on the bottom of the bumper and pull the bottom of the bumper cover down and the plastic clips will pop out. You should be able to pull the bumper cover off after that. It clips on to the body along the top. You can then have an unobstructed view below the adblue tank and easily get to the bolts that hold it in place.

After you remove the 3 bolts under the tank, it will drop down and hang by the wires. With the adblue removed the tank is very light. After I dropped it down and removed the top styrofoam piece I took a photo of the tank so I could see how the wiring was routed for when I re-installed it. I then cut all of the Zip-ties and disconnecting all of the wire connectors. Some of the connectors were tough to get disconnected but you just have to look at how the release works and wiggle them some and they will come off. As stated above the hose that connects to the control module just needs a squeeze at the band holding it to the nipple and it should easily come off. The top of the tank was very dirty/crusty and I cleaned it with water and a toothbrush so it wouldn't fall into the tank when I opened it.

The 3 screws holding the control module on are 4mm Hex. After you remove them the control module will the pull off with a rocking motion. It has 2 plastic nipples w/ o-rings beneath it seated into the lid. After that I used a hammer and a Large screwdriver to tap the lock-ring loose. Then I pried the lid out with the screwdriver. It's helpful to look at the parts in the kit beforehand to see how it's assembled. The kit comes with everything you need, including new zip-ties for the wiring and plugs to keep debris out while your working. I wouldn't leave the tank disassembled long because the adblue will crystallize. I could see this causing problems with the control module. There are 2 o-rings that go between the control module and lid. Make sure they are in place before you seat it. The kit comes with new o-rings.

Putting everything thing back together was pretty simple. The bumper cover was a little fiddly but just take your time and it will pop right back on. The CEL went off after I drove the car about 30 miles the next day.

This was the first CEL I've gotten on my Passat. I've had 0 issues besides this one in over 3 years and 86K. It still looks new inside/out and runs perfectly. I experienced several issues with my old ALH before at the same mileage. It was a great car too though. It had over 260k and was still going strong before my son wrecked it.

Thanks for the write-up Docmanny. I don't think I would have had the confidence to do this job w/out your thread. And thanks to everyone else for the additional info. It was definitely worth 3 hours of my time to save $800.
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Last edited by TN2002tdi; November 2nd, 2015 at 07:26. Reason: Revisions
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Old October 23rd, 2015, 05:55   #33
Mark Neil
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Great . . . glad it worked out for you too! And you didn't even have to lengthen one of the wiring harnesses on the new module like I did.

Great way to save money if you can.
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Old October 26th, 2015, 16:34   #34
CNGVW
 
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I matched up the VW Passat and the Toureg pump and the body that fits in the tank is shorter did you get it to lock in the bottom of the tank???
Or do you just let it sit there??

I too saw the short lead, it is to wrap around the pump so if you go the other way it may plug in.
I think $450 for the Passat is crazy when the Tourag is half the money


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Neil View Post
It does fit, although with one modification.
The only difference (that I could see) was that one of the two wires (4 colored wires) was too short to make it to the plug where the NMS Passat needs it to be. Easy fix, cut off the old plug from the failed module, and used it to extend the too-short lead on the new module.
No problems at all.
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VW and Audi Master Technician and TDI Specialist. Bob has over 35 years of experience in the field, and is listed on TDIclub.com as a trusted TDI Mechanic.
Bob is also known for his CNG conversions and is a consultant for Patrick Racing.
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Old October 28th, 2015, 04:32   #35
Mark Neil
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Hi, the one I bought (part number posted somewhere in the forum!) fit perfectly in the tank, and secured (with the small turn) to the lugs in the bottom of the AdBlue tank. Maybe you got a different one if yours didn't do the same but had to "float free"?

I tried the short lead wrapped around the cap the other direction, but it wouldn't fit (would be stretched WAAY too tight if I tried to hard), so it was easier just to cut off the relevant length from the old heater lead and splice it on.

Several thousand miles now since replace and absolutely no issue. No more CEL or codes (knock on wood).
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Old October 28th, 2015, 05:25   #36
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Thank you Mark
I did not use the Toureg I just benched them to see the placement. I do a lot of them so next time I will try the Toureg and add the splice job.
If you are around drop in some time.
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Old October 28th, 2015, 14:37   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docmanny View Post
I was getting the 202B fault with my Check Engine Light starting at 74k miles. I have a 2012 TDI SEL. Dealer quote was about $1200 to repair, so I figured I'd do it myself.
The part number is 561-198-970. You can get it online for the mid $400 range. I wasn't absolutely confident about my ability to do the job, so I paid a few bucks more for a return policy without a restocking fee. Here's what you get.

You will also need a torx driver and a socket wrench. You also need a hex bit. A siphon is helpful.
First step is to remove the bumper.
In each wheel well, there are 5 screws to remove. I used a torx bit with a 1/4 inch socket wrench to get in the narrow spots. It would be easier if you remove the wheels, but I didn't feel like jacking up the car. This picture was taken after removing the screws and prying the bumper away.

The top-most screw is at a tight angle
Then remove the tail-lights. Unsnap the electrical connector and unscrew the large white plastic screw. The whole assembly comes out easily.

Remove the two torx screws.

Next remove the torx screws from under the back of the bumper.
Then pry the cover off starting from each wheel well. It takes a little elbow grease, but all that's left holding the cover on are plastic clips.
Here's the Adblue tank with the cover off

There are 3 bolts holding the tank on. Two are located at the rear of the tank, and one in the front. Remove those and the tank comes right down.

Remove the foam piece and start disconnecting wires. You'll have to cut some cable ties to disconnect the mess. Don't worry, you can't reconnect the wires incorrectly later. Each clip is shaped differently. The kit comes with new wire clips also.
Now would be a good time to siphon out some of the Adblue fluid. You can use a fish tank vaccum for that (I wouldn't use it in a fish tank again though)

Now remove the three bolts holding the control module on.

Pull upwards. There is an O ring holding the module onto the tank, so you'll get some resistance.

Note the position of the arrow and the two hash marks on the tank. This will be important when putting everything back together.
Unscrew the large ring holding the heater down. Its very tight. I used a hammer and pry bar to loosen the ring. You get a new ring in the kit, so no worries.
Now pry off the top of the heater element. I used a flat head screwdriver. Remove the large O ring.

You have to rotate this piece a few degrees before it comes out.
Now that you have it off, its just the reverse to put it back together again. Beware of the arrow when you reseat the top of the heater. I made the expensive mistake of putting it the wrong place and broke the nipple off the control module ($500 retail, you can find it for $375). It also helps to have an empty Adblue tank, since it makes it lighter to reinstall on the frame.
Whole project should take less than an hour if you know what you're doing.
What about a P202A code? Same issue?
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Old November 2nd, 2015, 07:23   #38
TN2002tdi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CNGVW View Post
I matched up the VW Passat and the Toureg pump and the body that fits in the tank is shorter did you get it to lock in the bottom of the tank???
Or do you just let it sit there??

I too saw the short lead, it is to wrap around the pump so if you go the other way it may plug in.
I think $450 for the Passat is crazy when the Tourag is half the money
Didn't have any problems with the kit I ordered. http://www.expressoemparts.com/oe-volkswagen/7l6198970a
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R.I.P.'02 Jetta GLS TDI, Cool White, Sprint 442, RC2, EGR delete, 5-speed swap, VR6 clutch, TT short shifter.

Last edited by TN2002tdi; November 2nd, 2015 at 07:27.
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Old November 2nd, 2015, 12:13   #39
klinger
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I also ordered this kit: http://www.expressoemparts.com/oe-volkswagen/7l6198970a.
I installed it last Friday and it was a perfect fit without having to splice any wires.
The only comment I would add to this discussion is to disconnect the wire harnessing and the fluid line just in front of the spare tire area. There are two zip ties near there that you will have to cut, but you can use standard zip ties to re-attach the hose and harnesses.
The reason to go about it in this fashion is that then you can lower the tank out and remove it completely before having to cut a number of zip ties and disconnect multiple harness connectors. Also, doing it in this fashion means the tank is never "hanging" on the wires while you are disconnecting everything else.
All in all, this is a straight forward project. Just pay attention to the orientation of everything as everyone else has mentioned already.
Good luck!
Kevin

Last edited by klinger; November 2nd, 2015 at 12:19.
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Old November 5th, 2015, 05:03   #40
CNGVW
 
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I too disconnect the complete harness too.
I have found you can just remove the right rear tire well splash shield and just remove the torque screws that hold the bumper there. And just pull the bumper cover out a bit and
drop the tank
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VW and Audi Master Technician and TDI Specialist. Bob has over 35 years of experience in the field, and is listed on TDIclub.com as a trusted TDI Mechanic.
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Old November 5th, 2015, 10:33   #41
Bluto408tdi
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I got the P205B error last week. Took it to the Dealer today, and VW "goodwill"ed the repair without out even asking. 2012 TDI SE with 59k Miles.

Of note though, this is the THIRD Emission related failure I've had in 10 months. O2 Sensor in Dec 14, SCR Controller in Jan 15, and now the AdBlue tank.
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Old November 9th, 2015, 19:13   #42
c-wagen
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I did the repair today with my brother in law's help. Thanks for the write up. Some comments

1-The pump and heater cup needs to be rotated counterclockwise to unlock it from the tank to be removed (few degrees, as indicated) and the new one needs to be rotated clockwise to lock in position. I followed the recommendation of cutting the cables to remove the top of the old unit, and having good access to the old pump and heater cup to remove it.
2- I was not able to tigten the ring back to the older ring position. I used a hammer and an screwdriver to tighten it, and at some point the screwdriver began to damage the ring side steps.

The kit from expressoemparts was good, but had no instructions/references at all. All cables went back fine (correct lenght). However the new tank breather had no cap. So I used the old tank breather after removing it from the old pump. I saw some plugs to plug the adblue lines while working to avoid cristallizatiion. Used some, but not all (some I could not see were to put them... Maybe this is a multiple car kit?)


I installed it, now I'm waiting to see when the code goes out (if I dont kill it before with Vagcom)

UPDATE: after 28 miles the Check Engine Light went off (yay!). Cost: 233.28$ (Pump and heater), 8.63$ (a small transfer fluid pump from Walmart), and 17$ for 2.5 gal of DEF, Peak brand (it is cheaper in Walmart!). Total less than 260$, and three hours (taking it easy). Thanks again!
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Last edited by c-wagen; November 10th, 2015 at 14:40. Reason: Update
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Old November 11th, 2015, 10:01   #43
Shortydap1mp
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How often do I need add the def fluid? I just got a 13 Passat and found the fluid fill haven't had it long just wondering.
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Old November 11th, 2015, 12:14   #44
TheGrove
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It should last for the 10,000 mile service interval. Mine was supposed to be filled at 180,000 miles and the 1,500 mile countdown just started and I'm 1,800 miles to the next service.

It used to last longer but I've been noticing over the last 10 months or so it seems to be going thru it a bit faster than before.
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Old November 16th, 2015, 14:49   #45
silvrmax04
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I was getting the P202A code. Replaced the heater tank as in this thread. Easy. Straight forward. Erased the code, added 2.5 gal of def fluid and now I get a P20E8 code and I have 150 miles left to add more fluid. What's going on. Any one know?
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