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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW Passat Family (NMS and B7) TDIs (2012+)

VW Passat Family (NMS and B7) TDIs (2012+) Discussion area for the 2012+ Passat TDI (North American and rest of world versions versions). The North American model was previously codenamed NMS (New Midsize Sedan) and the version the rest of the world gets is sometimes referred to as B7.

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Old April 18th, 2015, 05:49   #16
dee74
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I finally was able to pick up the car last night. The total repair time was 5 days, the part took four days to arrive. The total cost was about $1050 but I had an extended warranty so it was $100 out of pocket. I truly think this car will be traded for another brand soon. I have had the car less than 3 years and I have needed thousands of dollars in warranty repairs. VW really dropped the ball on this one.
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Old April 18th, 2015, 05:49   #17
dee74
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A great write up if you want to repair yourself http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=438458
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Old April 19th, 2015, 06:55   #18
Lobo55
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Year 2012
Mileage 83500
Warning Light(s) MIL
Code(s) P202a
Any symptoms or problems before diagnosis (Other than MIL, nothing). Tried dealer reset to see if returned, came back on within 100 miles.
Repair Time: dealer popped a fuse so scan would not connect to engine module so four days to fix but worth it to get covered under extended warranty. Part was 561-198-970 $525, $184 of labor. Less labor than the DSG service if you can believe that.
I was worried about using Peak Def starting with 70k service but that did not come up
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Old April 19th, 2015, 07:27   #19
showdown 42
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2012 Treg heater coil failed
32,000mi
covered by VWOA under courtesy even though the yrs were over warranty.
I do have an extended 10yr warranty and wouldn't own this car without it .
The dealer inventories this part, any idea why? Hmmmm.
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Old April 21st, 2015, 17:54   #20
spjackson1
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Default P203B Code

I have a 2013 Passat with 44340 miles and have the P203B code (Reductant Level Sensor Circuit Range/ Performance Stored). Also have code P2196 code ( O2 signal stuck rich bank 1 sensor 1). Dealer stated: Inspected ADBlue level sensor operation and found ADBlue level sensor at times reading incorrect values. Estimate to fix ADBlue level sensor from dealer:$1087.51 for repair kit (part # 561-198-970 and urea). $402.91 for O2 sensor repair.

I haven't noticed any performance issues.
Also getting pretty aggravated with VW for all the stupid little things that keep breaking and cost a fortune to fix.

Side note: I did the 40k service myself and added Peak Blue DEF. I'm half wondering if this brand of DEF is what is causing the problem. Being that the code is intermittent, maybe I should siphon out the Peak and add a different brand.

Any thoughts?

Last edited by spjackson1; April 22nd, 2015 at 08:04. Reason: Additional Info
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Old April 22nd, 2015, 10:17   #21
verylongdrive
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2012.
I have to check the mileage, but it was under warranty - about 20k maybe.
CEL came on, got the relevant failure code, dealer replaced temp sensor. (When making the appointment, and then waiting for the part to arrive, SA said there's no hurry, keep driving. This was in a non-cold season, I believe.)

During the 10k fillup, and more so during the 20k fillup (I wised up and ordered it not to be touched at 30k), they spilled vast amounts of AdBlue, and refused to do anything about that what had soaked the foam around the top of the tank. (They eventually replaced the warped headlight I'd been complaining about since day 1 to shut me up. How to succeed in the US market? I have a an answer of just a few sentences for VW, and the word dealer is in the first one.)

Is there any danger of long-term damage to sensor or heater from urea having gone through the foam?
Should I perhaps just take off the bumper and inspect it all? We're just out of warranty now, but if I at least can prevent latent damage...
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Old April 22nd, 2015, 15:58   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spjackson1 View Post
I have a 2013 Passat with 44340 miles and have the P203B code (Reductant Level Sensor Circuit Range/ Performance Stored). Also have code P2196 code ( O2 signal stuck rich bank 1 sensor 1). Dealer stated: Inspected ADBlue level sensor operation and found ADBlue level sensor at times reading incorrect values. Estimate to fix ADBlue level sensor from dealer:$1087.51 for repair kit (part # 561-198-970 and urea). $402.91 for O2 sensor repair.
I haven't noticed any performance issues.
Also getting pretty aggravated with VW for all the stupid little things that keep breaking and cost a fortune to fix.
Side note: I did the 40k service myself and added Peak Blue DEF. I'm half wondering if this brand of DEF is what is causing the problem. Being that the code is intermittent, maybe I should siphon out the Peak and add a different brand.
Any thoughts?
I highly doubt it's the brand of fluid. More likely an intermittent electrical connection in the brain bundle (also known as the "heater repair kit").
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Old April 23rd, 2015, 06:19   #23
aullein
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I have my failure documented in the other thread but have a '12 Passat that threw a P202B code for the tank heater failure along with the CEL (not blinking). This was back in beginning of February and it has been prob little over 3k miles since and I intend to drive it this way until countdown or something else is triggered. take it for what its worth. if you have a tank heater issue i think you will be fine. If it is a pump or line heater issue maybe a different story. I'm no expert but just my opinion. I do live down in Central FL so maybe that is helping my good luck.
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Old April 23rd, 2015, 06:27   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VeeDubTDI View Post
I highly doubt it's the brand of fluid. More likely an intermittent electrical connection in the brain bundle (also known as the "heater repair kit").

And how convenient that all these adblue heater element failures, FOR THE MOST PART, require that you have to replace the whole unit instead of just the part that is failing. SMH

In the future, if i buy another clean diesel, i will delete and forget about all this nonsense.
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Old April 23rd, 2015, 06:48   #25
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2012 Passat TDI SE
about 41,800 miles
P205B - Reductant Tank Temperature Sensor Circuit Range Performance.


I got MIL two days ago; reset using the app. It was fine for a day and came on again this morning. Hopefully the extended warranty covers it.

It is being taken to the dealership now, I'll post an update when I know more. Like someone said on another thread, all the savings we achieve in fuel is meaningless if we have to shell out big $$$ for service.
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Old April 23rd, 2015, 07:11   #26
docmanny
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2012 TDI SEL
CEL came on around 72k miles
P202B- Reductant tank heating

That's my writeup referenced above.
When the I broke the tip off the control module, I was able to drive it with a low pressure reading. The Countdown came on saying 200 miles of Adblue left. Well, when the nozzle is broken, it pumps Adblue all over the floor of wherever you park. You can prevent total shutdown by adding a little bit of Adblue. Of course this happened to me on a weekend where I had 500 miles to drive.

Got the RED light- engine won't start. Adding adblue is not enough to get rid of it. You need dealer reset or VCDS. The first time this happened, a simple VCDS reset was good enough. That gave me another 35 miles (with a full Adblue tank). The pump had shut down. The second time I got to the red light, I had to dig deeper into the VCDS menus to reset the code. Then I had adblue pumping all over the floor. The new control module arrives today, so I hope all will be normal after this.

Replaced the control module and all is good.

Last edited by docmanny; April 23rd, 2015 at 13:28. Reason: Update
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Old April 23rd, 2015, 11:02   #27
aullein
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docmanny View Post
2012 TDI SEL
CEL came on around 72k miles
P202B- Reductant tank heating

That's my writeup referenced above.
When the I broke the tip off the control module, I was able to drive it with a low pressure reading. The Countdown came on saying 200 miles of Adblue left. Well, when the nozzle is broken, it pumps Adblue all over the floor of wherever you park. You can prevent total shutdown by adding a little bit of Adblue. Of course this happened to me on a weekend where I had 500 miles to drive.

Got the RED light- engine won't start. Adding adblue is not enough to get rid of it. You need dealer reset or VCDS. The first time this happened, a simple VCDS reset was good enough. That gave me another 35 miles (with a full Adblue tank). The pump had shut down. The second time I got to the red light, I had to dig deeper into the VCDS menus to reset the code. Then I had adblue pumping all over the floor. The new control module arrives today, so I hope all will be normal after this.

from what I gather from reading the pdf that covers the adblue system in our cars in deep detail, it seems the tank heater is the third heater to come on out of 3. I think the pump heater and line heaters will activate before the tank heater has too or does. I am not certain or 100% sure of this but after reading over the document i noticed that the hierarchy for lack of better words seems to put the tank heater last as it requires the coldest outside temperature to turn on. The line and pump heaters all required a higher temp to be acitvated. It was somehing like 17* for the tank heater and the others were like 7-10* higher than that I think.

Vdub do you know if all these heaters require a specific temp to activate and turn on or do they run during normal operating regardless of outside temps??
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Old April 23rd, 2015, 12:04   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by showdown 42 View Post
2012 Treg heater coil failed
32,000mi
covered by VWOA under courtesy even though the yrs were over warranty.
I do have an extended 10yr warranty and wouldn't own this car without it .
The dealer inventories this part, any idea why? Hmmmm.
I just replaced mine too this past Monday night on my 2010 Touareg. Kind of a pain to get to with the Touareg as the rear exhaust system / muffler needs to be dropped. I was pretty surprised at just how much the muffler weighs! Once that's out of the way it's easy peasy.

I was getting codes related to the reductant level sensor.

The only thing I noticed comparing the old unit with the new unit is that there is insulation on the wires leading to the heater element. The original unit's wires were unshielded from the heater & approx 2" up.

The heater repair kit part was $323.00 from 1st VW Parts

So far so good.
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Old April 24th, 2015, 06:41   #29
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Sprocket, any pictures of your old sensor unit?

-J
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Quote:
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Maybe I should pay MYSELF to do bad work on my car!
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Old April 24th, 2015, 06:52   #30
Sprocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compu_85 View Post
Sprocket, any pictures of your old sensor unit?

-J
I can take some pics. Anything particular you'd like to see?
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1996
B4V, 2.0L w/ BHW pistons, Rosten Rods, Girdle, 11mm, GTB1756vk, RC6, PP764s, .622 5th, Colt Cam II, Ecodes W/leveling motors & Euro switch, fog lights, Koni Yellow, Cat FF, Whitbread 2.5" DP, exhaust, FMIC
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