Correct! Brain fart I guess. My point, though, stands. The entire system needs flushed and it's almost impossible to do without pulling a lot of plumbing on one hand or flushing per my method on the other.
On the subject of an orange coolant tint, this is why I stressed cleaning the reservoir. Even a slightly contaminated and stained reservoir will cause the pink to go slightly to the orange at least to the eye. Best to siphon coolant out of the tank into a clear glass container to have a look.
So once again... Any orange discoloration is an indication that the system is contaminated. This is the reason the car must be driven for a couple of miles while up to operating temp between flushes until only clear water remains in the system. Only then will the coolant be a bright pink color and not take on an orange tint for the final fill.
Given that there is no easy way to disconnect and flush the system from the bottom side of the car and that we're dealing with two distinct systems sharing the same coolant, I tend to favor the topside flush. I tried the bottom flush on one of our cars and about the best I can share is that I wore and tasted a lot of coolant, and that the flush was unsuccessful. It was very frustrating at minimum.
Topside was quick and easy by comparison.
One last point... The vacuum causes more turbulence than merely cycling clean water through the system. It seems to dislodge more contamination than other methods and allows the clean water to suspend these particles for removal. Water will probably be heavily contaminated for the first two cycles. The third will often be clean. The reservoir will become badly stained and will need cleaning after the last cycle of clean water.