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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW Passat Family (NMS and B7) TDIs (2012+)

VW Passat Family (NMS and B7) TDIs (2012+) Discussion area for the 2012+ Passat TDI (North American and rest of world versions versions). The North American model was previously codenamed NMS (New Midsize Sedan) and the version the rest of the world gets is sometimes referred to as B7.

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Old August 14th, 2014, 07:20   #31
peiphil
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I just done a 2014 Passat using a jumper.
It had a black 645 relay that was in the same position as the green one pictured above.
The jumper goes from top to bottom where pins 3 and 5 on the relay used to plug in
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Old August 14th, 2014, 08:05   #32
pparks1
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So you pulled the relay out, then built a piece of wire with 2 spade connectors and then plugged the spade connectors into where 3 and 5 went. The relay can then sit in your glovebox until you decide you want to remove your mod.

This right?
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Old August 14th, 2014, 09:11   #33
vw_norm
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Your jumper wire should be at least 12 gauge wire to match the fuse rating. Smaller wire can overheat, get hot and become a potential fire hazard due to current flow, depending what you got plugged in. This would be the case if an inverter were used or other high amp draw device. Most car electronics normally have a low amp draw.
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Old August 14th, 2014, 10:33   #34
pparks1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vw_norm View Post
Your jumper wire should be at least 12 gauge wire to match the fuse rating. Smaller wire can overheat, get hot and become a potential fire hazard due to current flow, depending what you got plugged in. This would be the case if an inverter were used or other high amp draw device. Most car electronics normally have a low amp draw.
The only thing I plug into the lighter adapter is my cell phone and the kids portable DVD player.
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Sadly, my 2013 Passat TDI was hit while parked by a driver who fell asleep and it was declared a total loss by insurance. This happened on 8/10/2016, so I didn't see a dollar from VW for either a fix or a buyback, as I was excluded from the settlement. My daily driver is now a 2016 Honda Accord EL-X sedan.
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Old April 5th, 2016, 08:00   #35
PaulB
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Quote:
Your jumper wire should be at least 12 gauge wire to match the fuse rating.
I'd be concerned also about the way the OP handled the problem, by jamming a spade connector inside the relay. High current may cause the "contacts" to oxidize and burn, which eventually will heat things up until the relay melts or burns or starts a fire.

The spade connectors for the jumper should be the same quality and size as the relay's. The wire should be bent to the correct shape before adding the spade connectors, and they should be soldered.

Looks like 14 guage stranded wire should work for a 30 A fuse though.
http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

If you are going to leave something not correct for that current in there, at least change the fuse for a lower current rating.

OK I just took the relay apart and see the OP is using the stock contacts. That is better but I still wonder about making them work with something other than the stock coil. I was not comfortable with modifying this relay.

I tried some spade connectors but had none thick, wide and long enough to make a good solid contact like the relay blades do, so i nixed that also. Back to the stock setup for me (sigh).

The manual states that each plug uses up to 120 watts. I have two of them, so for me anyway that is 20 A. It's unlikely to be drawing that much from both at the same time, so I think a 10A fuse might be a good idea here, if you are going to do these mods.
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Old April 7th, 2016, 12:36   #36
MB2VW
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The other day, I needed to run an ignition switched 12v source to my visor area to support a Dash Cam. I chose to use crimp on spade quick disconnect lugs to tap the fuse block:

I used a male to tap the fuse block:

I came across this thread this AM, and I thought I would suggest that you could achieve the same results by using the same approach.

I didn't execute this, but I did some measurements for confirmation.
1. Pull F42
2. Fabricate two short wires, each having a Male Spade Quick Disconnect Lug , and Female Spade Quick Disconnect Lug. Heat shrink Female side.
3. Attach two wire's females to 30amp fuse pulled out in step #1
4. Insert wire #1 Male into Point #1 (labels for points on diagram are just below actual point, or fuse contact)
5. Insert Wire #2 Male into Point #6 (load side of F42)

The nice thing is that you can quickly undo this mod, if you need to.

For what it's worth!
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Old February 11th, 2017, 21:28   #37
jrm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjclow View Post
Wonder if this would work on the JSW to have the 110v outlet always hot? Be great for camping trips when you need to charge things.
Running the inverter would drain the batt when not in use
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