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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW Passat Family (NMS and B7) TDIs (2012+)

VW Passat Family (NMS and B7) TDIs (2012+) Discussion area for the 2012+ Passat TDI (North American and rest of world versions versions). The North American model was previously codenamed NMS (New Midsize Sedan) and the version the rest of the world gets is sometimes referred to as B7.

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Old June 17th, 2012, 16:37   #61
Niner
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I may get them installed before month end or before some real night time driving, but being it's so close to summer, and I don't drive much at night, it could be a while until I really get motivated to install and use them. We'll see...
Edit: Well the kit I bought looks identical to the original kit by Coffeemade, sans a decal on the thinline Ballasts, and a wrapper around the bulbs, and it does come with the additional adapters, for about $116 shipped.

I bought them here. http://uspmotorsports.com/product_in...cts_id=632{98} in the 4300K temp range. Will see if I can get around to installing them soon .

Last edited by Niner; June 19th, 2012 at 19:35.
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Old June 19th, 2012, 15:56   #62
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Install was a piece of cake, with a few choice moments where my large hands were doing spaghetti fingers trying to fit the adapter with the HID bulb all aligned properly with the lug where it belongs in the adapter all fitting and locked down inside the headlight housing. Quite a few #@$! and "muthah f$#@!r were leaked from my lips while doing this project, but I got it.



The Kit. It does come with the adapters. Use some super glue to set up the bulbs on the adapters beforehand.







Watch the video that comes with the lights from the place you bought the lights, they don't come with instructions at all.

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/beNlGogfz3E?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


First order of business is pull the caps off then rotate the light backings about 20 degrees counter clockwise, towards fender for the left light, towards engine for the right light.


Next, pull the head light connector. I had to turn on the ignition and headlights switch and pin out which wire was hot, besides the brown ground wire. It was yellow with a blue stripe on the left headlight, and yellow with another color strip, adjacent to the brown wire, on the right headlight, numbers 5 and 6 on the fitting.





Crimp on the connectors provided, like this, for the right light. Hot is yellow with a black stripe on the right and yellow with a blue stripe on the left. Brown is universally Ground on German cars, for the most part.





Cut the black sealer donut, very carefully without nicking wires, off the HID. Do NOT TOUCH the HID bulb with your fingers, you'll destroy it, so handle wires only not the glass bulb.





Attach the ground wire provided with the screw bag to the ballast with the machine screw provided.





Install the HID's with adapters as shown in the video. It all has to be shoved in the back of the headlight very carefully keeping everything aligned with the spade lug of the HID light base staying in alignment with the adapter base.

Take the rubber covers and with dykes, cut a slit for the wires from the headlight bulb to pass through.




Pass the wires through the covers after the bulbs are installed in the housings. Press the covers back in place carefully, all the way around the edges, making sure they are seated fully.

Clean the side of your headlight housings, making sure they are dust free and spotless. Apply the double backed tape to the mini ballast, and attach to the side of the headlight housings with the wiring all facing the firewall.

Plug the male spades into the connectors you crimped on, red from ballast goes to the yellow wires with stripes, black from ballast goes to the brown (ground) wires. Plug the other connectors from the ballast to the wires from the head light.

Attach the black ground wire from the ballast housing via a self drilling /tapping tek screw into a section of the fender lip. On the right there is a ground lug already that exists, I do not know if the ground lug will fit over it.

When it's all plugged in, it should look like this.














Time to go on a Mountain Bike ride and wait for tonight to test them out on the neighbors garage door across the way for the cutoff lines. ;-)

Later on, I will go in with VCDS in the long coding section, and bump the headlight voltage up to 13.8 V to drop the start amperage required of the wiring at start up of the ballasts to arc the lights to get them going.

Last edited by Niner; June 19th, 2012 at 21:15.
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Old June 19th, 2012, 17:10   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Niner View Post
Later on, I will go in with VCDS in the long coding section, and bump the headlight voltage up to 13.8 V to drop the start amperage required of the wiring at start up of the ballasts to arc the lights to get them going.
What? I didn't have to do this, why would you?
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Old June 19th, 2012, 17:20   #64
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What? I didn't have to do this, why would you?
It's not a matter of if you have to do it, it is an option.... HID lights do better with higher voltage and lower amperage, especially at start up, it keeps the start draw down if the voltage is higher. I brought it up with Veedubtdi, and he agreed, and suggested 13.8V is a good point to be at. Just trying to be ahead of the curve, ya know! That, and I've built a few lights for riding my Mtn bike at night, LED's and such with forward voltage, amperage, bucks, PWM for dimming, drivers, etc to calculate. HID's are Old School on mtn bike lights.

Last edited by Niner; June 19th, 2012 at 17:26.
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Old June 19th, 2012, 17:22   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Niner View Post
It's not a matter of if you have to do it, it is an option.... HID lights do better with higher voltage and lower amperage, especially at start up, it keeps the start draw down if the voltage is higher. I brought it up with Veedubtdi, and he agreed, and suggested 13.8V is a good point to be at.
When you do it can you post a how to?
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Old June 19th, 2012, 18:35   #66
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When you do it can you post a how to?
Haha, Compu or Lawson showed me the ropes on how to do it... I'll find it again... it's somewhere in the long coding, I thought was where I found it.
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Old June 19th, 2012, 19:52   #67
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Yeah there's a place in the long coding for adjusting exterior light voltage. I believe it was 12.5V by default, but I don't remember. I'll have Jason post.
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Old June 19th, 2012, 19:54   #68
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It's one of the options in the long coding of the body control module. I forget which bit it is, but you'll know when you have it, you get a drop down list of available voltages.

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Old June 19th, 2012, 20:13   #69
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I believe it was labeled "head light voltage" and I was under the impression that it was turned down to make the Halogen bulbs last longer. Most headlights run on whatever voltage the voltage regulator produces after the alternator, around 13.7V, which is also favorable for charging your lead/acid battery without boiling off or overcharging the battery.

PIAA brand lights, while quite bright, do not last too long, they burn out quickly. by dropping the voltage to them a half a volt or so, they lose a bit of brightness, but will last significantly longer. PIAA bulbs are basically overdriven on voltage for the additional brightness.

Last edited by Niner; June 19th, 2012 at 20:17.
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Old June 19th, 2012, 21:10   #70
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These were shot with my Galaxy S2.






Portait shot. Very happy with these plug and play with the sharp cutoff of the lights with these HID 4300K temp bulbs. Now if we can just mod this old drivers bad habits... I just might be tempted to try 75MPH at night with my old eyes while wide awake.




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Old June 20th, 2012, 10:25   #71
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Niner,

so how do you like dem 4300K bulbs, vs bluish Boy Racer 6000K look ? Toldya the install was a piece of cake
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Old June 20th, 2012, 12:55   #72
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Very impressed with how pure ,crisp, the white light is out the front. Like Psychelidelic Xenon tubed strobe light white from the early 1970's when I had electric shop in Junior High School in 8th grade. Just don't start drinking the beer in the garage/shop until after you have the lights and adapters seated in the headlight housing. That would be too soon to celebrate. This is a good weekday, after work project.

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Old June 20th, 2012, 13:02   #73
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I'm curious as to how will the bulbs last w/ these. In my experience, the light output decreases significantly after 3-4 months.
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Old June 20th, 2012, 13:11   #74
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I'm curious as to how will the bulbs last w/ these. In my experience, the light output decreases significantly after 3-4 months.
Source of your HID kit, where and what company did you buy it from?
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Old June 20th, 2012, 14:05   #75
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6000K is far from "bluish boy racer" blue... you must be confusing that with 8000K and up.

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