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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW Passat Family (NMS and B7) TDIs (2012+)

VW Passat Family (NMS and B7) TDIs (2012+) Discussion area for the 2012+ Passat TDI (North American and rest of world versions versions). The North American model was previously codenamed NMS (New Midsize Sedan) and the version the rest of the world gets is sometimes referred to as B7.

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Old September 23rd, 2014, 07:52   #46
psd1
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Originally Posted by danielsza View Post
Sorry, but my google-fu doesn't seem to be very good today.

How does one reset the "Change oil now" service reminder?

I read the owner's manual again today. It was in there.
In case anyone wants to know..

Turn the ignition off.
Press and hold the (0.0/set) button on the right side of the cluster
then press the start/stop button
let go of both buttons

it should says something like "are you sure you want to reset the oil life"
then press ok
And what if you dont have a start/stop button?
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Old September 30th, 2014, 10:29   #47
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How to service/refill the AdBlue reservoir on a 2012-2015 Passat TDI...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r5rXEWIeGCU
Where did you get that fill container?

Thanks.
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Old October 4th, 2014, 15:50   #48
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Cold? Hell no! get it as hot as possible, let that fluid pour out like water! The case will be HOT and the new fluid going in will only take the brief operational steps (SHIFT THROUGH EACH GEAR for 3 Seconds WITH YOUR FOOT ON THE BRAKE). The new fluid will be warmed by the case and in no time at all you will be between 35-45 degrees C and ready to pull the VAS tool, drain the excess over the snorkel and install the plug. I just confirmed that on a NMS 2012 at 40K service. Imagine telling your customer who just drove in, to wait until tomorrow, your tranny has to be COOL. No way!
If you follow the procedure - the fluid temperature must be in a certain range to check the level (I don't have the numbers in front of me so I'll go with the 25-45 you mentioned). The new cold fluid in a hot transmission was out of that range (too hot) to accurately measure. You have two choices - drain hot and wait for the trans to cool (which we did using fans sitting on top of the engine) or drain and fill cold (the only way to do this following the procedure).

You made my point for me - the dealer must not be following the procedure because if you drain hot and fill anywhere within 2 hours, it'll be over the acceptable range - at least that was the case with this Jetta. Another reason to skip the dealer and do it on your own. Just don't rush it.
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Old December 27th, 2014, 15:49   #49
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Default How to remove/install the misfuel adapter 2013+ NMS Passat

After my first fill-up I realized what my first mod had to be. Prior to the Passat, I had a MK IV Golf TDI, and (after performing a ventectomy) I always fueled all the way up the filler neck. This is a difficult task in the new car due to the misfuel adapter. Naturally, someone has already figured out how to remove this annoyance, but since the original how-to is in the MK VI section, I thought I would link to it here. The adapter in our cars (2013+ Passats) is identical to the OP's. Thanks to TDEyes for the original helpful post.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=365920

Here is a link to a youtube video that shows the procedure:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3rnU3Bu1DT8
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Old December 29th, 2014, 08:32   #50
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Just curious how this mod is an advantage, I can easily top off the fuel on my 13.
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Old December 29th, 2014, 12:12   #51
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I see you're from California, so your nozzles are different from most other states. I like to fill up my diesels so that I can actually see the fuel coming up into the filler neck. With the misfuel guide (and flapper door) in place, I can't see how far up the fuel has gotten, leaving the possibility of either underfueling or overflowing, which are both bad. Fully fueling in this way gives me maximum range per fillup, as well as being a consistent marker for calculating mpg.
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Old December 29th, 2014, 13:13   #52
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I can see that, my 01 F350/7.3 is wide open. I thought about doing something. When I got my TDI, but as my wife drove a gasser, I didn't want to have an oops with a mixed filling, but now she also has a TDI, so it might make sense now, but I know that Kalifornia does check the fill cap etc on occasion.. M
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Old December 31st, 2014, 04:59   #53
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I can see that, my 01 F350/7.3 is wide open. I thought about doing something. When I got my TDI, but as my wife drove a gasser, I didn't want to have an oops with a mixed filling, but now she also has a TDI, so it might make sense now, but I know that Kalifornia does check the fill cap etc on occasion.. M
Funny - my 7.3 (99) had the small filler opening while my Jetta has the large one. The misfuel preventer shouldn't be an emissions device so Cali would probably be OK with it. You aren't venting fumes, etc., just allowing the larger nozzle to fit. It's easy enough to reinstall if they complain.

I was just reading through the service manual yesterday and saw the section on removing/installing it. There are 2 versions listed with different procedures.

I've thought about removing it... I don't let anyone fill the car but I've gotten used to dealing with it.
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Old March 8th, 2015, 14:30   #54
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I have a 2015 Passat. Most of you know the filter is now below the car. I just changed my oil for the first time, and wanted to share some pictures of what you will see with the new design. The car went up on a pair of Low profile rhino ramps with no problem. This gave me plenty of room to work with.
1. First take off the belly pan..
2. The filter is located in the front of the engine between the fan and engine block. It had a 1/2" plug in the middle of the cap to let oil drain from the filter.
3. There is a rubber coated alternator electrical wire in the way of removing the cap. I unhooked it from a plastic mount holder and disconnected it. I also had to remove a tie strap that tied it together with another line (?).




4. You then have enough slack in the electrical line to swing it to the side or above to have access to removing the filter cap.
5. I then took the 1/2" plug out of the cap and let drain. About half quart came out. Put cap plug back in.
6. I then drained the main oil pan. It had a 19mm plug.
7. Plugged oil pan back up.
8. Then i took the cap off the oil filter housing using a 32mm (1.25") socket. I used the following socket and oil filter. Part 03N115562 oil filter from idparts and socket


9. Replaced filter/seal and cap 1/2" plug o-rings. Tightened cap back up. Reconnected electrical wires, tie-wrapped back to the other line, and replaced in plastic mount support. Replaced belly pan.
10. Added 4.75 quarts of 5w30 esp mobile 1 formula oil. the manual calls for 4.5qts, but i had to put a little more in to get it to the safe Mark on the dip sick.
Edit 04/13 - Added another quart to bring the oil level up to the top of the cross-hatched area. There's another thread under this section where they discuss the misinformation that VW sent out regarding the 2015 oil level as 4.5qts, and should be 5.8qts. My manual was one of those that reported 4.5qts. Just to clarify, 4.5qts did not even come close to the correct level.

All done. A lesson learned, a 2014 filter will not work, not matter what Amazon says. I've never done a write up like this. So i hope it will help all least one person.

edit - Guess TapaTalk didn't add the pics correctly. will do so this evening. sorry.

Last edited by BKmetz; January 7th, 2017 at 15:13.
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Old March 10th, 2015, 09:38   #55
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Thanks for the detailed post!
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Old April 17th, 2015, 10:46   #56
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Added Replacing the Adblue Heater: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=438458 by docmanny
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Old April 21st, 2015, 10:17   #57
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When replacing the fuel filter on my 2012 Passat TDI, is it alright to fill the canister with pure Power Service diesel additive instead of diesel when replacing the new filter?
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Old April 23rd, 2015, 13:33   #58
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When replacing the fuel filter on my 2012 Passat TDI, is it alright to fill the canister with pure Power Service diesel additive instead of diesel when replacing the new filter?
You dont need to add anything to it if you didnt drain the fuel out. Just put the new one in and crank it up
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Old April 23rd, 2015, 13:39   #59
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I would like the canister to be full with no air when I reassemble. Removing the old filter takes fuel out of the canister since it is saturated. Therefore when putting new filter in air will replace fuel that was removed. Is PS ok to add to get topped off?
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Old April 24th, 2015, 05:02   #60
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I would like the canister to be full with no air when I reassemble. Removing the old filter takes fuel out of the canister since it is saturated. Therefore when putting new filter in air will replace fuel that was removed. Is PS ok to add to get topped off?
You definitely don't want to 'crank it up' empty.... There is a thread already going somewhere here about that exact question. Depending on the year, the fuel pump will cycle with the key (13s, I believe - not your 12). The issue was whether the fuel/PS/etc. poured into the housing gets filtered or not. If I read the threads correctly, the PS would get run through the engine unfiltered.
Of course - VCDS will cycle the pumps for you to purge the air, but it can be done with a jumper in the fuel pump relay instead. There is a how-to posted somewhere if you search for it.
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