Audi 80 1.9 TDI Injectors

Don't know. I do know that the injector with the sensor on it is substantially more expensive than the others.

Don't buy from a dealer if you can avoid it. You should be able to get a much better price from an internet-based VW parts house. Run a WEB search for a European service. (Can anyone help him out here?)

Have you tried a big overdose of injector cleaner? That might do the trick all by itself. I'm not sure whether TDI injectors can be "re-nozzled" or whether you have to replace the entire unit. I suspect the latter. But try a huge blast of diesel injector cleaner first.

As for the turbo: It's hard to say whether it's worth messing with at this point. It could be argued that you should have it overhauled before the imbalance damages it, but it can also be argued that waiting for it to fail won't require the replacement of any parts that don't already need replacing anyway. I think if I planned to keep the car for the long term I'd prefer to stay ahead of the game and fix it now. Better to PLAN for the downtime than to wait for the car to leave you by the side of the road. You can take the opportunity to thoroughly clean and recondition the entire intake system. It's probably pretty filthy by now, especially the intercooler and intake manifold.

-mickey

If can tell me the engine code I can look up the part no’s etc.

I would bet you need to have the injection timing checked. If that's OK I priced the injectors at VW Parts. com and was suprised that the injectors are rather cheap (except #3 $178.00?? 1,2,4 $80.00??) that is if your engine is the same as a VW TDI.

I would leave the turbo alone I am not sure but the amount of play that is allowable is quite suprising. I don't have the figure off the bat but they do allow alot (relativly speaking).

Another thing to check is the MAF. I believe in the older hot wire sensors they went bad over time. The newer ones use a hot film instead and have a much longer life. Let me know I have a new spare in the garage.

DB

#3 incorporates the needle lift sensor. Hence the higher price.

-mickey

Hi

I'm a big Audi TDI fan, my 1994 Audi 80 TDI has covered over 130,000 miles at 50mpg with only regular servicing etc. Recently it's smoking a bit and I'm thinking about getting the injectors checked and possibly re-nozzled. The turbo has a little bit of play on the shaft bearings but clean and boost is still okay. so eventually I'm going to get it overhauled too.

Does any one know the part numbers/cost for genuine/good injectors/nozzles or have any advice on finding a good reconditioner for the T2 turbo as I've been advised not to just fit the bearings and seals kit myself, it also needs rebalancing.

Peter

Peter, I have the 4 injectors for the 90 bhp tdi for sale. I took them out and put the 110 bhp injectors in as a upgrade. They have done 41000 miles. Give me a E mail if interested. thanks Des.

Hi

Re Injectors

I've used millers dieselclean regularly for last 70,000 miles and recently tried different brands of diesel.

Had injectors tested on friday 8/9/00 by injection specialist he removed one and tested it.
He said that it wasn't 100% but not bad considering 130k miles but would recommend replacement as 2 stage injectors couldn't be re-nozzled. I think that no 3 with sensor could be root of problem but will find out when I replace all 4.

Also tried blocking off EGR vacuum pipe this has had little effect. Changed oil & filter, replaced air filter, cleaned air tract and vacuumed flies & leaves from intercooler.


I drive about 150 miles per day to and from work so its not just used for short journeys.

Any other advice welcome.

For a 1Z engine the part no’s are as follows, injectors 1,2&4 = 028130201G whilst injector no 3 is 028130201H

Hi Des

Thanks for the offer.
I'm trying to source new injectors, so far Sooty has kindly given me the VW part numbers and I've found a few sites on the web one of which quoted £32 for bosch injectors 1,2&4 and £69 for nr 3 so if they're the correct injectors they're not quite as expensive as I was originally quoted by VAG at £1000 for replacement.

I plan to keep the car for another 130,000 miles so hopefully this new set will solve the smoking problem or I might start taking a puff myself.

regards

Peter Menzies

Re Smoking TDI

This weekend I removed the air intake hoses, plenum EGR valve assy and intercooler for cleaning.

I cleaned out the hoses with detergent and when dry post treated with re-vitalising silicone spray. The plenum EGR and intake bend assy were cleaned with carb cleaner a bottle brush and Gunk until shiny like new. A lot (total 130,000 miles 60,000 with blocked off EGR) of black tarry goo removed.

The intercooler was removed and after treating to Mr Muscle Oven "Foamy" Cleaner washed out in hot soapy water both internally to remove oily waste and externally to remove flies and grit. Then using a power washer I forced any grit back out of the fins till like new and see through. If I have reason to remove the cylinder head I must de-coke it also.

It appears that what I take to be the MAF with a 4 used connection in a 5 way connector in top of filter airbox outlet. Inside lies a spring loaded alloy flap which would also seem to measure air flow by the angular degree by which it opens alongside is a sensor like a hot wire or thermistor type blob in a black plastic cage. Looks similar to the 2 wire sensor in plastic pipe leading from intercooler to EGR and on to plenum and cylinder head intake ports only this one seems to be a 2 wire potentiometer measuring 27.5 k ohm at about 20 degrees Celsius.

I checked the MAF sensor and alloy flap at the airbox connector and measured what appears to be a steady +5v ref across terminals 3/2 and what I take to be the signal to ECU on terminals 5/4.

I measured across terminals with ignition on, 5/4 V = 3.8V
At 800 RPM 5/4 = 2.8
At 2000 RPM 5/4 = 1.2

It's like a decaying exponent but havent measured it at say 4500 RPM to guage maximum airflow measurement.

Does this sound correct to anyone as I've only Haynes A6 TDI manual -> 1996 and a Haynes A4 1996 - 2000 manual to go on and both show different connections for the 1.9TDI (90BHP)

Driving the car afterwards the smoke so visible before was almost impossibe to spot so I will keep paying attention once the overdose of Millers DieselClean is diluted.

Does anyone has some results of measurements of MAF sensor voltages that I can use to compare in case mine is faulty?

regards

Peter Menzies

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Hello Peter,

I think I can help you out with the values you need to measure on the MAF sensor.
I have a few pages with the methodes to check
the sensors. My car is also a Audi 80 TDI '92. So it's one of the first TDI and it's still running good (125.000km-80.000miles).
The engine is a 1Z engine. I did some measuring myself and have to say that the values can differ a little bit of what is written. With this I mean your pilot voltage for the MAF (should be 5V), mine is 4.5V.
I think it's more important to check resistance of the potentiometer. About the smoke: mine is smoking too when I hit the throttle hard but after driving a while it disappears when hitting the throttle hard again. I once dismounted my catalyse and it was pretty dirty. So driving at a nice illegal speed cleans the cat and engine.
My girlfriend is driving a Beetle TDI and it's also smoking when you hit it hard (only 30.000km). I have read that you disconnected the EGR for 60.000miles? What are your feeling about it? Not temp problem, better performance, MPG, etc...? I'd like to do it too but I'm affraid of damaging my engine. Have you already bought new injectors and what is the result?

Best regards,
Blackbird

Hi Blackbird

Lovely cars!

The EGR can be disabled very easily by pushing a small ball bearing (about 2.5mm dia from a bicycle wheel works) into the short flexi pipe connected to the EGR, then re-fitting the pipe this way the vacuum pipe is blocked and the EGR poppet valve doesnt open, also it looks regular, only close inspection reveals the blocked EGR. This is probably the easiest way to try as it is very easily reversed, however if you want a more permanent solution manufacture a piece of tinplate to fit inbetween the EGR valve assembly and the air inlet to plenum the operation of the valve is effectively disabled.

In my experience the car runs much better especially at lower RPM/part load with the EGR blocked and I havent noticed any problems, no error flags or ECU problems. I just cleaned the plenum (air intake manifold) of gunk and have no desire to do it again soon so my EGR remains firmly closed.

I ordered all 4 genuine Bosch injectors from a company Helptoday (email gary.cheshire@helptoday.co.uk or www.helptoday tel 00 44 15 22 50 00 99) for £198 inc VAT @17.5% and carriage.
One 0986 430 237 Injector, Three 0986 430 238 Injectors.
Fitted them myself yesterday and what an immediate difference. It was easy to fit them, just replaced 1 at a time taking great care to avoid getting dirt into bores or new injectors, used a vac wit a piece of garden hose attached to vac out any loose grit etc.

If you do this remember to ask for 4 new injector sealing washers 13mm OD/ 8mm ID, 2mm thickness approx.

Also recently fitted a new K&N filter, think it makes a difference but still undecided on benefits.

Was it difficult to remove and clean the CAT, its something I've got next on my list but like to weigh up job first.

regards

Peter