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TDI 101 Got a simple/basic TDI question? Are you a newbie (new to the forums). Feel free to post your question here.

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Old November 10th, 2018, 10:45   #16
GCBUG00
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Frank06,

In fairness to discussions stating a balance value w/o noting the correction radius is like stating tighten to 65 LB. instead of 65 LB/FT.

GCM is a pretty common balance reference.

Gary
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Old November 12th, 2018, 11:28   #17
Franko6
 
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Gary,

Isn't that Ft. lbs.? Really, that becomes semantics.

Seems a rather picky point, as I don't care if it's grams off on a 228 or a 240mm flywheel, or whatever else you might consider in a TDI. Weight is weight. Balance is balance. Circumference and rotational force would increase the dynamic effect in the larger flywheel. If we were talking a Mac Truck, maybe 2.4gr would not be as much a difference, but still, ZERO is ZERO.

1 oz (28gr) on a 396 flywheel we once messed with, equals a mis-balance of 3 lbs at 3,000 rpm. I really don't care where exactly the balance error is, exactly. Wherever the imbalance is, it adversely affects main bearings and will cause unnecessary vibration.

Do you mean Gross Combination Mass (GCM)? That is usually interchangable with GVW, although I don't think that is how you are intending to use it. With flywheels, especially when we are being so specific as a 1.9 TDI, there aren't a lot of choices in flywheel dimensions; maybe weights, but with that consideration, I'm not thinking there is really any difference in total mass deviation, given a lighter weight flywheel and the same imbalance, that is would make equally the same effect. You could make an argument about that, but if taken purely as a swinging weight, that seems to make sense.

So, what is your point?

And it's not Frank-Zero-Six.. It's Frank-Oscar-sixer.
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Old November 12th, 2018, 16:56   #18
BearForceOne
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Well, I've got a new VR6 clutch kit/SMF conversion, clutch fork, pivot, and retaining clip arriving tomorrow from IDParts, I'll post some pictures of what I find in the car and take a peek at all the mounts and whatnot as well.
My plans are to drop the whole engine/trans/suspension cradle, is there a better/faster way of changing a clutch in these cars I'm not aware of?
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Old November 12th, 2018, 19:01   #19
IndigoBlueWagon
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Yes. Just take out the transmission. No reason to drop the engine.
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Old November 12th, 2018, 19:19   #20
eddieleephd
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Just use a 4x4 and a couple wedges with a hole placed for a hook to lift the engine and support it. Then separate the trans dropping it slowly.
The trans is light, but it does help to have a lift for the car. Otherwise, it's easier to pull the front end.
I did mine on a lift and pretty much lifted the trans back into place by hand, it's light comparatively, 96lbs I believe. Used a rope to secure it and align it with the spline shaft and bolts.
I didn't take the radiator out as I would if I didn't have a lift, so that made it easier to lift by hand.


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Old November 13th, 2018, 05:29   #21
JETaah
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Franko6 View Post
Isn't that Ft. lbs.? Really, that becomes semantics.
.

On the other hand, I've never heard the term Meter Newtons.

Lb/ft sounds more logical and correct. But, any Google reference I have found uses ft/lbs.
Anyway...back to the show.
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Last edited by JETaah; November 13th, 2018 at 05:36.
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Old November 15th, 2018, 10:10   #22
Franko6
 
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Only Bergell, Marty would think in Meter Newtons(Wouldn't that be meters Newton?).

The weight of a flywheel makes itself a problem. When we say 'balance 'em', shipping to and from us challenges the original cost of the part. The other problem is you can't hardly tell if it 1) really got balanced and 2) how can you confirm it's really is balanced? At that point, you have to trust. Or just be comfortable in you naivety to trust the Chinaman who balanced it at the factory. We think if you buy from a reputable source, who knows and understands the issue, your chance of getting quality increases dramatically. Unfortunately, that means additional expense and most vendors would rather choose ignorance

It just is sensible, as we see it, to take the part that Sachs has been making in China, now, for over 10 years and check the accuracy of the Chinese workmanship. Unfortunately, they are not all so great. We do not have issue with the casting, only the finish machining and balancing.

I cannot make a blanket statement about any other origin of manufacture of flywheel or clutch kits, but our sourcing information is from a ZF buyer. There have been some claims the flywheel is made in Korea (maybe North Korea?), but that is at best a cover story.

As example, one of the major issues with the recently replaced North American Free Trade Agreement; now USMCA, was nations like Mexico bringing in Chinese parts and then advertising Origin of Manufacture statements like, "Assembled in Mexico". That is code for Made in China. One of USMCA's intents is to close importation portals, like Canada and Mexico.

Since Chinese manufacture is well known in many situations for their 'quality fade', we find it important to double-check workmanship. The buying public are mostly naive about engine balance. To lack the understanding and install questionable parts is to shorten engine life expectancy.

Reference the following:

https://www.forbes.com/2007/07/26/ch...l#7071f6e3462d

In another ongoing issue, cam followers (lifters) are being sold pervasively from a number of vendors, that are 'no name' CRAP. There is one company that are nitriding these lifters to be sold for the Pumpe Duese engines, or as I refer to it; making a silk purse from a sow's ear. The issue is that the lifter tops are thinner and not the proper hardness, as also are the plungers, which directly contact the valve stem. Premature wear at 1/5th life expectancy is the norm for the 'no name' lifters.

It's not always, 'You get what you pay for.', as the pricing is close to the retail cost of properly manufactured units, from reliable manufacturers, who stamp their name and part number onto the cam follower. But there is a very high profitability for the unscrupulous retailer!

When your cylinder head comes my way and my comment is, "Your lifters are worn out because they are 'Chinese Replacement Auto Parts'(CRAP), check your source and then realize, they got you... the cheap part is at least 1/2 the cost of the name-brand part, but the CRAP part lasts 1/5th as long.
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'85A2 NA 375k, '91 A3 290k Always Silver, Always a Jetta
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