ESP and ABS lights on together

Hey guys, The other day I drove my 04 Passat for several hours straight, when I parked my car there were no fault lights on my dash, it got really cold that night (-4F) and in the morning I noticed my ESP light was on. I drove it for about an hour, then the next time I turned it on the ESP and ABS lights were on together and have been on non-stop since. The ABS system isn't working at all. Anyone experience this? I'm hoping its just a bad sensor or something and not the ABS pump. Thanks!

Probably a wheel sensor is dirty. Snow/slush or other road sludge fouling. Either the sensor of the tone ring. This is where a vcds would tell you which sensor, narrowing down the possibilities from 4 to 1.

Tdijarhead said:

Probably a wheel sensor is dirty. Snow/slush or other road sludge fouling. Either the sensor of the tone ring. This is where a vcds would tell you which sensor, narrowing down the possibilities from 4 to 1.

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I took it to a couple part stores that said they could read ABS, and neither of them said they were getting any codes. The foreinauto shop wanted $45 just to read the code, so I left.

It would make sense for them to be dirty since Utah's roads are heavily sanded and salted, I had some serious build up behind my wheels around the mudflaps, but its all melted since, but obviously there could be residue on the sensor or tone ring.

If they were dirty, would it be as simple as going to a manual car wash and spraying up under the wheel well real good, or would it require taking off the wheels and going more in-depth?

Thanks!

You need a scan tool to see what DTCs are stored in the ABS. Some generic OBD2 tool is not going to work. It has a DTC. Period. Anything beyond scanning the car with a proper scan tool is just a guess. It could literally be 20 different things wrong. The ABS system, when coupled with ESP like your car has, has not only input from the 4 wheel speed sensors, but also brake pedal switch, accelerator pedal switch, steering angle sensor, as well as all the outputs at the hydraulic body itself. Not to mention it needs to exchange other information across the CAN bus from various other modules, such as the engine and transmission.

Oilhammer, does this for a living, having more experience in one week than the majority of us get in ten years. An autozone or other box store scanner will not read the abs system of a vw. The scanner available to you that will do that is the vcds program available from
Ross-tech.com .

While it could be a wheel sensor that's just dirty, it could also be the wiring leading to the wheel sensor. Vcds will give you an idea if that is the case. Also there are the other sensors that he mentioned that are also involved in the abs/esp system.

If it is a wheel sensor you can monitor each sensor's speed reading in real time with vcds. If one sensor is bad you will be able to see which one it is because it will be reading no speed or intermittently.

FYI, these ABS control module are known to go bad and will do so with the light coming on and off intermittently over time. It will also show one of the sensors being bad. While it could truly be a bad sensor, my experience (after swapping sensors and replacing it with a new one) has been that the circuit in the unit has gone bad. Many places can rebuild them with great results.

Just telling you this to be careful throwing parts at it as it can get expensive and still not fix the problem.

Hopefully it is something simple.

So I met up with TDIclub member Riflesmith and he was able to use his VCDS to read that all my wheel sensors were working fine. The code that did pull was:

00778 - Steering Angle Sensor (G85) 37-00 - Faulty

Has anyone ran into this before? I am unfamiliar with the Steering Angle Sensor, where its located and replacing. The part looks pretty pricey online, around $400. Anyone have any advice or cautions before I wander down the rabbit hole? Thanks!

It might just need to be recalibrated, go to the Ross tech web site there is instructions there on how to do that. If I recall you'll need to have the vcds plugged in to get it started so you may have to go back and see riflesmith.

It's located under the steering wheel.

Just out of curiosity have you had an alignment or other front end work done lately? When you're headed straight down the road is your steering wheel straight or is it canted off to one side or the other?

Tdijarhead said:

It might just need to be recalibrated, go to the Ross tech web site there is instructions there on how to do that. If I recall you'll need to have the vcds plugged in to get it started so you may have to go back and see riflesmith.

It's located under the steering wheel.

Just out of curiosity have you had an alignment or other front end work done lately? When you're headed straight down the road is your steering wheel straight or is it canted off to one side or the other?

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Darn, I wish I would have known that before I left, since its a two hour trip to his place.
I have not done any work on it recently, and the steering wheel is straight.

If it is a bad sensor, would it still need to be calibrated with the vcds? Thanks.

Richey said:

Darn, I wish I would have known that before I left, since its a two hour trip to his place.
I have not done any work on it recently, and the steering wheel is straight.
If it is a bad sensor, would it still need to be calibrated with the vcds? Thanks.

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You can run the calibration without a VCDS http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/VW_Passat_(3C)_Brake_Electronics

I would try recalibration before I replaced it. Follow the intstructions in owr084's link in the post above.

owr084 said:

You can run the calibration without a VCDS http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/VW_Passat_(3C)_Brake_Electronics

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"Sensor for Steering Angle (G85)
Prerequisites:
Start the vehicle.
Drive in a short distance straight line on a level surface at a speed not higher than 20 km/h.
While driving turn the steering wheel one turn to the right and one turn to the left.
When having the steering wheel straight again stop the vehicle with the wheels pointed straight.
Ensure that the steering wheel is not moved again.
Keep the engine running and do not switch off the ignition.
System voltage at least 12.0 V."

When it says "one turn" I assume that would be a 360 degree rotation of the steering wheel to one side, then back to center, then another 360 degree rotation to the other side, then straighten back out. Then if done properly it will turn the lights off. Am I correct there? Seems too easy to be a real fix

Yes it does but that's cheap and easy IF it works. Rather than a new sensor. Yes 1 turn 360*
Give it a shot and cross your fingers.

Just got back from a parking lot test. Nothing new to report. I tried several times, one of which I cranked the wheel all the way instead of just 360*.

Is this a part that I may be able to get away with getting used from a salvage yard?

Well I was hoping you would have had some success. I went and refreshed my memory at the Ross tech website, and it looks like you do need the vcds to complete the calibration.
I should have looked first, you did the correct prerequisite steps, but then you need to finish with the vcds the steps that start out Select and then 03 brake electronics in brackets.

Tdijarhead said:

Well I was hoping you would have had some success. I went and refreshed my memory at the Ross tech website, and it looks like you do need the vcds to complete the calibration.
I should have looked first, you did the correct prerequisite steps, but then you need to finish with the vcds the steps that start out Select and then 03 brake electronics in brackets.

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In your experience, would a angle sensor need calibrating randomly for no good reason, or is it typically due to tampering with components around the steering wheel. I'm just thinking that seeing as how I haven't done anything to it recently that maybe its failed completely, in which case it would be better to get a new (maybe used?) sensor before heading back to Riflesmiths place 1.5hrs away.

There really shouldn't be a reason for a random recalibration. Unless you did some front end work that left your steering wheel off center or something of that nature. And even then its usually more a matter of getting it straightened back up within specs , +-5* I think. Which can be done at the tie rods.

In the old days if you took your car for a front end alignment you might get it back with the steering wheel off to one side or the other. I always liked mine straight, but that was just preference. Now if you get an alignment and the steering wheel is not straight within a few degrees of 0 you get an ABS/ESP error code.

I have a vcds so that's why I suggested a recalibration first, instead of the time, effort and $400 to replace the sensor. However a 1.5 hour drive is another matter.

A used sensor would be an option if it was cheap enough and some junkyards have return policies, though electrical components are treated differently some places.

The only other thing I can think of that might cause an electrical glitch is low voltage on your battery. When that happens it often throws a bunch of codes not just one, but it might be worth checking to be sure. Put a meter on your battery when the car is in the driveway turned off. A healthy battery should read 12.6+. Now start the car and repeat you should now with the car idling get 14+.

Did you have riflesmith clear the code to see if it would come back? Sometimes weird things happen and you clear a code and it doesn't come back.

Richey said:

"Sensor for Steering Angle (G85)
Prerequisites:
Start the vehicle.
Drive in a short distance straight line on a level surface at a speed not higher than 20 km/h.
While driving turn the steering wheel one turn to the right and one turn to the left.
When having the steering wheel straight again stop the vehicle with the wheels pointed straight.
Ensure that the steering wheel is not moved again.
Keep the engine running and do not switch off the ignition.
System voltage at least 12.0 V."

When it says "one turn" I assume that would be a 360 degree rotation of the steering wheel to one side, then back to center, then another 360 degree rotation to the other side, then straighten back out. Then if done properly it will turn the lights off. Am I correct there? Seems too easy to be a real fix

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Those are the prerequisites for steering angle sensor calibration. You then use VCDS andf do the following:

[Select]
[03 - Brake Electronics]
[Security Access - 16]
Enter 40168, to enable the basic setting.
[Do it!]
[Basic Settings - 04]
Group 060
[Go!]
Activate the Basic Setting.
[ON/OFF/Next]
After a successful basic setting, field 2 should say "OK".
[Done, Go Back]
To make sure the basic setting was successful, check the sensor again.
[Measuring Blocks - 08]
Group 004
[Go!]
Check field 1, the value has to be between -1.5 and +1.5 °.
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]

If this does not resolve the problem, you need a new clockspring which also contains the steering angle sensor. These are not cheap and if you find one for $40 its almost guaranteed to be for a vehicle without ESP.

Check the connector before buying anything.

I found a used one on ebay when mine failed. If you have ESP your car will take a square looking clockspring/angle sensor. The number I have written in my little book is 1JO 959 654 BP. You can find the number on yours by taking off your steering wheel. Which of course involves taking off the air bag. There are a couple of you Tube videos that are very helpful.

Make sure if you decide to DIY that you disconnect the battery first you don't want any chance of an air bag explosion. I would recommend the you remove the steering wheel to get the number on your clockspring it will be right there in front of you. Then put the wheel back on so you can drive it and have time to find or order the clockspring/angle sensor.

Keep watch of ebay, I just checked and didn't see one, a few weeks ago someone was looking for one and ebay had 3. Or once you get the part # check with some online VW dealers maybe one will do better than $400. I think I paid around $80 on ebay three years ago for mine. Been working fine since.


Maybe someone remembers but I think you need a 12 point socket to take the center nut off that holds the steering wheel on but I forget which size.

If you have the steering wheel off it would be a good idea to clean the connectors, don't fiddle with the yellow ones they're the airbag system. And make sure to have your steering wheel and tires straight ahead before attempting any surgery. If you remove the clockspring you will note a little window in the upper right corner there is a yellow dot (I think) that should be visible in that window make sure it stays there even if you have to tape the middle part of the clockspring so it won't move after you've removed it.

Also don't turn the ignition to the on position with any part of the airbag system disconnected and your battery still connected or your airbag light on the dash will light. Put everything back together first making sure all the connectors are snapped into place.

johnboy00 said:

Those are the prerequisites for steering angle sensor calibration. You then use VCDS andf do the following:

[Select]
[03 - Brake Electronics]
[Security Access - 16]
Enter 40168, to enable the basic setting.
[Do it!]
[Basic Settings - 04]
Group 060
[Go!]
Activate the Basic Setting.
[ON/OFF/Next]
After a successful basic setting, field 2 should say "OK".
[Done, Go Back]
To make sure the basic setting was successful, check the sensor again.
[Measuring Blocks - 08]
Group 004
[Go!]
Check field 1, the value has to be between -1.5 and +1.5 °.
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]

If this does not resolve the problem, you need a new clockspring which also contains the steering angle sensor. These are not cheap and if you find one for $40 its almost guaranteed to be for a vehicle without ESP.

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I met up with another club member with a vcds. After hooking it up and following the above instructions, we were not able to get past the brakes electronics. When we would go into the brakes and abs section, the access code button was greyed out and unavailable. We tried driving it around and trying the prerequisites several times with no luck. Any idea why? Thanks.

Did you save the scan or print it out? Need to tell us which ABS unit you have. It will say in the upper right corner. This could be 5.3 or 5.7.

Richey said:

I met up with another club member with a vcds. After hooking it up and following the above instructions, we were not able to get past the brakes electronics. When we would go into the brakes and abs section, the access code button was greyed out and unavailable. We tried driving it around and trying the prerequisites several times with no luck. Any idea why? Thanks.

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I've only done this once, and it was on my Jetta. In my case, I removed the clockspring and had it turned 1 revolution off. I could not initially get it calibrate.

What I was able to do was check the last steps to read the steering angle.

[Measuring Blocks - 08]
Group 004
[Go!]
Check field 1, the value has to be between -1.5 and +1.5 °.

In my case it was reading +360. I then knew , that I had to rotate it by 360 degrees. It then calibrated successfully and I read close to zero degrees.

We Tried the VCDS again and it still didnt work. I took pictures of the screen process to help.


Security Access was greyed out, so we went to [Measuring Blocks - 08],


Entered in 40168 to enable basic settings.


[004] was not corresponding with what was explained, it didnt have an "OK" in box 2.


At the bottom of the list was a drop down box so we selected "Steering Angle Sensor Alignment"


After selecting "Steering Angle Sensor Alignment", [001] filled in with information, box 3 said [Not OK]

The "Go" box stayed greyed out and we could never get it to work. We tried the prerequisites first and nothing changed.


Thanks for all the help, This has been very confusing to me, and you all have been a huge help so far.