Bought a 2001 jetta project car

164 k been changed from auto to 5 speed , motor mount broke off block rear, timing belt tore up from broke mount, seems to have aftermarket flywheel put a belt on it today and got it started very rough, starts fast not sure on timeing marks on flywheel different from any I have seen lot of spliced and cut wires under the hood, return line blocked off coming out of the pump, return from the injectors is going back to the return at filter, straight exhaust 1 1/2 inch I think , complete egr delete it looks like , its going to take a while , anyone know anything or seen a blocked off return line at the injection pump? more too follow I'm sure,, I guess it was worth $ 300 bucks

The rear motor mount should be fixable with
https://www.dieselgeek.com/collections/broken-vw_block-repair-kits
..if that's the break you're talking about.

"timing belt tore up"? Well, if that happened while running, you'll need to pull the head off and check for damage. Until you verify the motor is good, you're just going to not so slowly kill it for good by running it.
Frank06 here on the forums is The Man when it comes to saving heads:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/member.php?u=31923

People all over send him junked heads. God forbid the day he retires

As for the return line, probably part of some mod or other. Should be easy enough to put back to normal assuming you're able to identify the mods, and you're going for stock.

So, the timing belt was bad and you put one back on but with not being sure about the timing mark on the flywheel (not to mention the other locking locations)??

Perhaps you need to explain the term “timing belt tore up”.

If the belt broke and you just slapped a new belt on it without fixing the head then in a couple thousand miles or so a valve head will break off and drop into a cylinder. Usually that pretty much ends the useful life of an engine.

If the belt just looked bad and things were filthy and you cleaned everything up and installed a complete timing belt kit properly and are now fixing the small stuff that’s a different story altogether.

Here’s what a complete TB kit looks like. Notice it also includes single use stretch bolts.

https://www.idparts.com/alh-timing-belt-kit-038109119m-p-449.html

And if you bought a belt kit off amazon or eBay unless it came from idparts, cascadegerman or metalmanparts all of whom sell on eBay you’ll need to remove what you put on and replace it with a kit from one of those vendors or also adding to that vendor list dieselgeek.

2 motor mount bolts backed out/ broke , I put 2 new bolts in, need to get the fixit thing from diesel geek I guess, the engine had dropped down some and the mount went over against the idler adjustment pulley plus rubbed again the belt damaging it some new belt and pulley from autozone , it wouldn't start but had compression on all cyls it had a aftermarket fly wheel had a hard time finding the mark , pulled injector and got it tdc , mark looked like a drop of solder , started it and it idled very rough , smoother above 1200 rpm, did a lot of reading and tried the hammer mod without a vag com it smoothed out nicely, I put another top on the ip pump to get my return back it was clean inside, engine starts very quickly , occasional light stutter at 900 rpm. I', if it wasn't for finding info on here I would be lost going to try to get a vag com setup I'm sure it will help , I have a timeing belt kit [ tools] for this and a 05 Passat tdi , something to lock the crank would be nice, where should I go for a vag com setup? I may look on the sales section here. someone has wired in switch to some wires near the pump was told it was for timeing advance, straight exhaust, plastic aftermarket coolant pipe on the right side of engine , maybe something to do with the egr deleted , boost gauge on top of the steering colum I keep finding stuff, more to follow.

work in progress

car is running well now with the exception that it goes in to limp mode at sustain mp over about 12 [it has a mp gauge] seems to be getting good fuel mileage but have only ran it about a 150 miles, switch on the dash with wires and resistors going to ip makes a big difference when on. the going into limp mode is a problem because it often does going up a hill.
I think there is a problem with the vacuum lines since the previous owner did the total egr delete. does anyone know if the Chinese cables work with vag com?

The switch is probably an evry mod. It’s essentially an advance/overfuel switch (search for more info). Your probably overboosting because the Switch causes the car to over fuel, and often the boost spikes harder than the old, coked up (from over fueling) vanes can move. Leave the switch off , and see if it overboosts still. If it does check the vaccum lines. The Chinese cables often work with vcds lite but I recommend trying to find a used genuine interface, the full version is much nicer. The paid version of vcds lite, I think $99 does most of what you need for these old cars though. I wouldn’t use the attached stolen, outdated software though, as some have reported virus issues.

thanks , I found a vacuum line diagram on here for one that had the delete used it and it maxs out between 10- 11 psi , great for me will be checking on vcds

no I didn't

jettawreck said:

So, the timing belt was bad and you put one back on but with not being sure about the timing mark on the flywheel (not to mention the other locking locations)??

Click to expand...

babydoll said:

car is running well now with the exception that it goes in to limp mode at sustain mp over about 12 [it has a mp gauge] seems to be getting good fuel mileage but have only ran it about a 150 miles, switch on the dash with wires and resistors going to ip makes a big difference when on. the going into limp mode is a problem because it often does going up a hill.
I think there is a problem with the vacuum lines since the previous owner did the total egr delete. does anyone know if the Chinese cables work with vag com?

Click to expand...

Even if is running good, you need to take head out and do Valve job.
TDI ALH engine do not bent valves , they crash them inside and after 5k miles valve will drop and damage complete engine. Also lifters are 99% cracked and will damage Head.


Search about this, there is many posts here in forum.

new or just discovered problem with this 2000 jetta tdi , oil waqrning system does not work, oil light comes on when key is turned on goes off when engine is started but if engine is killed or dies is does not come on while key is on , I do have 12 v at wire at oil pressure switch, car was deleted and changed from auto to standard before I got it , curious if that entered in to it some way