1Z Tune

Crap or not, but here you can see one well working 350+ 1Z, and still heading over 400hp after having more bigger nozzles ( 5x0.4mm+ ). Engine runs already lean with 0,341mm nozzles and 11mm pump which voltage is already 5V on wot, especially when boost is raised a bit. This pump/nozzle combination is good up to 370-390hp usually depending pump voltage map. With NOS you can have almost that much power that fueling allows, but with this setup there is no benefit from NOS because more fuel is not available any more. But, maybe i´ve done something wrong then when it works...

Though, never expected for long lifetime for this engine, that´s why it´s use is also really cruel to find weakest part. Still no problems after 5000km +. I´ll drive another dyno run on local shop after few time, there is plenty more of inertia to have more better torque curve and numbers from it, and have turbo wake more earlier (on street there´s full boost on 3500-3700 rpm ). Also i´ll raise limiter bit over 6000 for next run.

jsrmonster, can you describe what does "overfuel" really mean in the present case? What injectors, turbo, injection advance and voltage you had on IP? IAT? Did it fail from long WOT? From my opinion, 1Z / AHU piston is more durable especially when they´re modified, than PD or ASV piston, since there´s much more material because of lack of oil channel. There are plenty of cracked PD pistons too, so this is not fully abnormal to see one (though, usually it is consequence from bad injector or tune, on VE or PD, otherwise all engines would fail same way one after another).

On your link, there seem to be early and later 1Z pistons. Piston which is cracked, seem to be later and with wrist pin bushing. As far as i think, my Golf engine must have bushings because it´s durability this far. Also, there is no difference to AHU piston.

Fixed the link for 0-180kmh video, sorry for quality: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c3e5yFjly7U

the differences are clear...

AHU on left, 1Z on the right

Clear difference. Early 1Z pistons looks very weak for sure! I wonder which engines or cars these weak pistons has been used? Maybe they aren´t even exported to europe, since i really haven´t heard major problems on 1Z earlier. Can´t know.

I know at least the early Audi 80 TDI had the weaker 1Z pistons here in Europe.

p0wer: did you measure the turbine wheel on the HX35 Super? I've seen a lot of wrong measurements from that supplier and he propably does it intentionally. 52mm and 58mm are more common turbine exducer sizes on that 65mm inducer size. Looks more like a HX32W that the company gave a new name.

Very good information. 35 Super has 54/77mm compressor and turbine wheel is 55/65mm ( which is from 80/90´s 4,4 liter Valmet tractor engine, same as Holset H1D has ). However, turbine wheel has really massive bolt head which covers turbine wheel area a LOT. This turbo is with #8 housing and I use 38mm external wastegate with screamer pipe.

Same with both HX30 and HY35 turbine wheels, both the same 65mm inducer size and massive bolt head size. Probably just different cuts of the exact same wheel, yours being in the middle (HX30 = 52mm, H1D = 55mm, HY35 = 58mm)

The 54mm compressor you are using flows 54lbs/min, 450bhp on a TDI but turbine will be the limit at some point.

How is boost vs emp behaving now?

That´s true, it really flows that much when looking at the compressor map, so 400hp should not be a trick with bigger nozzles and revs raised up to 6000. EMP is about same as boost ( at this moment about 2.5bar ), below 4000 EMP is bit over 2 bars and more near 6000rpm it raises up with 0.5 bar. I think 2.8 bar of boost will not be a problem, and 400hp could still be reached with this housing and turbine wheel. I was thinking to update this turbine wheel with better one, but i think i go compound if i can have enough fuel. This really spools up quite fine also on daily driving and being such an old wheel, but could be bit more aggressive.

What i didn´t expect, was that this turbo does not surge on any situation, despite compressor should work on surge border regarding map and head flow. Over all, still working very fine. Also we must remember, that 351hp was measured with only 2 or 2.2bar of boost and under 5700rpm, even head and cam is really "budget" style.



There you can have head flow which i have now installed. Not as good as CNC head what i have ready and waiting for "Stage2". But as I said, this is budget one made by a friend.

What intercooler does this car have?

Let me know if you want to try a 11-blade billet compressor wheel with extended tips, plug and play on your turbocharger

Cooler is universal 450x300x76mm with 3" outputs, piping is 2.5". Cooler is enough powerful for this setup. This car has also A/C so there was really lack of space, and time also to install it more cleaner. So, i just decided to make more space. Could be about 50mm lower to install it more cleaner.

Compressor wheel looks sweet, but more i´d like to change turbine. I dont know, how would this compressor wheels change behavior of this turbo.

Extended tips give better compressor efficiency during spoolup due to better surge margin and better compressor efficiency at high boost levels. 11 bladed wheels flow more than 7+7 bladed wheels like the stock one and this one has a slimmer nose and hub for more blade area (much like what you want for the turbine wheel). Wheel is also lighter than stock so willl have better transient response.

I have a few on my spare parts shelf so could ship you one at cost price if you are willing to give it a try. If no gains ship it back and I will send you your money back

p0wer said:

1Z stock pistons seem to be enough good to at least 350hp. Can´t see any issues to use them with 200hp. Mk3 has originally 8bit ECU ( or at least europe models ), so it´s highly recommended to change it to newer 16bit MSA-15 from for example Seat Cordoba 6K TDI. This fits straight to original connector, but it needs to chance 2 wires among from wire harness to have water water glows and glow indicator lamp work properly. 16bit ecu is way more easier to remap too.

You can use stock clutch up to 170-200hp if torq is kept lower than 250-280Nm depending it´s condition. Ofcourse, you can take more torq with good clutch and have more usability.

Click to expand...

So, after a while i got a 16-bit ecu from an ibiza 6k tdi 110hp.
You sad it needs to change 2 wires. If you could help and show me which one i need to change i'd appreciate that

Bringing back to life this post, just to not create another one.

So, the ecu has broken, searching for another 16-bit ecu.

I'm seeing some nozzles to buy from a guy here in portugal.

He announces 0.320mm for ++250cv, but i don't know if is 4 holes or 5.

Install this nozzles before tune !? How will the car run ?

benramalho I can still find the wires for you if you like, but i need to know ecu numbers (and letters) first to be sure.

And on the end of summer it also happened what people was waiting for. After 10 000km and hard work (and really, really heavy pedaling) got it broken!

Anybody want to guess what is the weakest part of tuned 1Z? Please note, AFAIK this ( and all european model 1Z ) engine does not have old model pistons, there are AHU-style pistons instead.

Well, i will need it but first i need to find the ecu, p0wer.

So, our engines have the AHU-style pistons?

Which is the weakest part of 1Z?

Depending on year, the piston is the weakest as it doesn't have a bushing for the wrist pin. Else you're looking at the rods for the weakest point. This is going from what I've been told and read, if memory serves correctly.

Digital Corpus said:

Depending on year, the piston is the weakest as it doesn't have a bushing for the wrist pin. Else you're looking at the rods for the weakest point. This is going from what I've been told and read, if memory serves correctly.

Click to expand...

Mine is from yr 96 EU Model, but i need to repair the block or head, because in 8000km 2L has gone.

I think p0wer had slighty modified the pistons on their place.

but he is the best person to comment about that.

I am quite sure if my engine would have old style pistons without bushings on them, they would be destroyed on this heavy use. Pistons was modified on their place, so can´t say any more from them to be honest.

Engine itself seem to be very robust and I may need to do lots of work to find the weakest part. But injection pumps seem not to tolerate 6000 rpm and tight limiter without modifications. In fact, except ARP head studs it´s only part which is not original 1Z part on this engine, and it does not remain unbroken What i can say, rods arent weak for sure. They tolerate 350hp / 550Nm + without any problems. From my opinion, AHU-style piston aren´t that bad either compared other tdi pistons, fe. PD which has weakening oil channel on it, especially when piston is modified ( maybe some of you have seen some half splitted PD pistons ). Of course i havent driven it 100 000km or 200 000km tuned, so it may be too early to say more. Engine itself, is bit more than 400 000km driven and history is well known.

I installed brand new, stock and genuine Bosch 414 11mm injection pump at summer, and it lasted only 2000km even we reduced max rpm´s to 5600 after first pump failure. Our first pump, used, opened and checked stock 414 11mm pump did last 8000km though also with higher rpm´s used. I must open these pumps soon to see what´s wrong, i think ip head piston is floating on higher rpm´s and on limiter, and springs should be more aggressive or shimmed more tighter.

New pump:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vx4nva5ni278p8g/DSC_000002.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/z2a85nhfvy9jyil/DSC_000001.JPG?dl=0



What 2L is gone in 8000km? If it takes that amount of oil, only worn cylinder head can make it. Usually blocks and pistons does not worn from these engines much without misuse or irregular maintenance.

p0wer said:

I am quite sure if my engine would have old style pistons without bushings on them, they would be destroyed on this heavy use. Pistons was modified on their place, so can´t say any more from them to be honest.

Engine itself seem to be very robust and I may need to do lots of work to find the weakest part. But injection pumps seem not to tolerate 6000 rpm and tight limiter without modifications. In fact, except ARP head studs it´s only part which is not original 1Z part on this engine, and it does not remain unbroken What i can say, rods arent weak for sure. They tolerate 350hp / 550Nm + without any problems. From my opinion, AHU-style piston aren´t that bad either compared other tdi pistons, fe. PD which has weakening oil channel on it, especially when piston is modified ( maybe some of you have seen some half splitted PD pistons ). Of course i havent driven it 100 000km or 200 000km tuned, so it may be too early to say more. Engine itself, is bit more than 400 000km driven and history is well known.

I installed brand new, stock and genuine Bosch 414 11mm injection pump at summer, and it lasted only 2000km even we reduced max rpm´s to 5600 after first pump failure. Our first pump, used, opened and checked stock 414 11mm pump did last 8000km though also with higher rpm´s used. I must open these pumps soon to see what´s wrong, i think ip head piston is floating on higher rpm´s and on limiter, and springs should be more aggressive or shimmed more tighter.

New pump:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vx4nva5ni278p8g/DSC_000002.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/z2a85nhfvy9jyil/DSC_000001.JPG?dl=0



What 2L is gone in 8000km? If it takes that amount of oil, only worn cylinder head can make it. Usually blocks and pistons does not worn from these engines much without misuse or irregular maintenance.

Click to expand...

Sorry, my mistake. Yes, 2L of oil has gone in 8000km. I'm thinking maybe the piston ring, but i don't know. Maybe stem seals need replacement. What do you think?

Do you have any photo for comparison of the pistons before and after you modified them?

I´d guess seals and valve guides more than rings if there haven´t been any unusual damages happened earlier. I can´t predict anything from 20 year old engine which i haven´t even seen or heard! Oil quality also matters. Although, what does small oil consumption matter if there isn´t any other cons from it? Let it burn There isn´t much sense to rebuild this kind of old engine fully from every part when you can find 100% working engines for just some bucks or euros, excluding cylinder head which is the most wearing part of these engines.

I have pictures somewhere. But you must remember this piston modification should be done only after ~300hp to have any benefits from it. Otherwise there are only cons, such as worse start-up from cold and so on. If you need to drop CR, just open bowl bigger. If you need more space for valves, enlarge pockets ( and CR drops again ). That´s about it, what we´ve done for the pistons.

My engine running is like a clock. A bit noisy but i think is because of camshaft lifters. It has 330k km on it. Even in idle i see some smoke white/blue.

Just consuming a bit of oil, i want to repair him before i start to get some power on it.

Guys, anyone has done a remap on 8bit ecu?

I can't find a cheap 16-bit ecu, so i can't afford it right now.

I was thinking about do a remap on my ecu.

How many hp i can get with stock material?
Is it possible to put rev limiter in MSA12?

I think you can find those ecus for 50-100€ on ebay.de. No point in messing around with original 8-bit ecu. It's just so much harder to map and it has limitations so the end result will be better with MSA15 ecu. And it might even be cheaper in the end.

Let's see if i can find some msa15 in good condition to remap my car.

Anyone was tested that adaptador msa12 to msa15 2nd gen vp?