2006 Jetta BRM Fuel injector problems?

TDI817

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I changed the oil & filter and the fuel filter. I noticed the fuel filter housing was very dirty. so I took it out and cleaned it. I didn't see any water in the filter housing. I also ran some "BG Diesel care" I bought a 946ml bottle and used just over half. Took about 40 minuets of idling to run half the bottle. The engine was already warm but after about 15 minuets of the "BD diesel care" diesel purge the rough idle really smoothed out. Still smoking slightly. I also bought a Diesel engine compression tester from Lordco. Its a Wilmar W89731. Unfortunately the pressure release button doesn't work and after 7 or 8 revolutions of the engine there was 420PSI in cylinder #4. So the quick disconnect will not work under pressure. After about 3 hours the pressure dropped to 100psi and I was able to pull the quick disconnect off and the pressure came out. I will not be testing the other cylinders until I get a new tester. The bentley manual talks about a leak down check right after the compression test in the book. It says its should only be done by a qualified technician and requires special tools. I'm a little surprised as this is a repair manual, are they assuming that the average person who owns this book is not competent enough to do a leak down check? The special tool is probably harder to find/easier to make but the principles are simple.

I should also note that if I come to a hard stop there is a puff of smoke once the vehicle stops moving. Also there is a hill in town I have to drive up and down every day. Its just over 1km long and going down hill the compression of the engine while in 3rd gear is enough to limit the car to 65km/h the entire duration of the hill. But once I get back on the throttle at the bottom theres lots of white smoke for a few minuets or until I give it a wide open throttle run threw a gear or two.

I checked oil levels and its right at the max line so I don't think there is too much oil in the car. And this was check on flat ground 15 minuets after the engine was shut down.

On a side note does anyone know where I can buy 3" diameter aluminum tube? Preferably with a wall thickness of 0.50" to .060" I've been looking at http://www.vibrantperformance.ca/ but the MSRP prices are very high and the only local distributor is Lordco and Lordco sells everything at double MSRP or more. I can buy straight sections but my mandrel bender is only good to 1.5" diameter. Mainly used to make hydraulic lines, fuel lines, or brake lines.
 

TDI817

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I'd just vent the CCV to the atmosphere and be done with it.

Currently thats not the problem I am trying to solve. It has been venting to atmosphere, that was one of the first things I did to try and eliminate the engine smoking. Problem with that is its continuously puffing out vapour and its very noticeable. Make's my car look like its broken or over heating. Its unreal the amount of attention it attracts and I really do not like it. Not to mention the oil dripping on the ground is not an acceptable solution.
 

Mako

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You don't have an extra sealing washer under any injectors do you?.
Spray would impinge on a hard surface and make white smoke.
 
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TDI817

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You don't have an extra sealing washer under any injectors do you?.
Spray would impinge on a hard surface and make white smoke.
The injectors were sent to Drive By Wire LLC for mounting and calibrating. All new seals were installed. When JS Performance blew the engine I had the injectors removed and send back to DBW for an inspection & testing. I was told they are in pristine condition and new seals were installed. Since JSP refused to reinstall the injectors I did it myself. I didn't have any smoking issues after installing the injectors but I also had no power. I didn't know at the time but I had a vacuum leak and a boost leak. I had the turbo sent back to Darkside Developments for an inspection, flow test and balance test. Everything was excellent. Thats when I found my vacuum leak and boost leaks. With more tuning and test driving I developed this smoking issue.
 

TDI817

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I think I know the reason why there's so much white smoke. I'm loosing oil very quickly from somewhere. I just did an oil change less than 2 weeks ago and most of that oil is gone. While driving today I got an oil pressure warning light on the dash come up. I've gone less than 300km (186mi) since the oil change.

Very strange considering the same type of oil was in there before the change, and the oil levels never changed much before. These days the smoke doesn't seem to go away once the engine is hot but its still less than it is at start up.

There's no oil in the coolant, the coolant looks good. There is no oil dripping anywhere, no oil covered parts under the car. And there is no sign of oil in the exhaust.

Recently I've noticed a very subtle feeling which feels like the clutch is slipping. Its a Stage 2 Endurance clutch from South bend. Its possible the main rear seal is leaking oil, but that doesn't explain the white smoke. Oil must be getting burned somehow. Compression test is good, so I'm assuming the rings are good. Turbo might be blowing out oil. I did notice a little bit of oil in the boost pipes but I thought it was from the CC Vent. Its been disconnected awhile ago but I haven't taken the boost pipes off since before that.
 

LNXGUY

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If there was that much oil in the bell housing, I can't see the clutch being able to hold anything.. I would guess turbo. I'd probably figure out what's going on before driving it anymore if it's eating that much oil.. If it is the turbo, you've got a very good chance at a runaway.

You could always take the plug out of the top of the tranny and look down the inspection hole...
 

oldpoopie

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If there was that much oil in the bell housing, I can't see the clutch being able to hold anything.. I would guess turbo. I'd probably figure out what's going on before driving it anymore if it's eating that much oil.. If it is the turbo, you've got a very good chance at a runaway.

You could always take the plug out of the top of the tranny and look down the inspection hole...
Agreed stop driving till you diagnose that turbo
 

Spike_africa

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Obvious question here, but I will toss it out. Have you been monitoring coolant levels? Is it eating coolant slowly? That is the easy way to tell if head gasket, or cracked head is going on.
 

TDI817

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Obvious question here, but I will toss it out. Have you been monitoring coolant levels? Is it eating coolant slowly? That is the easy way to tell if head gasket, or cracked head is going on.

I have been keeping an eye on coolant levels, seems to be ok.

I was thinking maybe there is too much back pressure on the CCV? Maybe the CCV needs a vacuum on it? like it would have when its connected to the intake. The catch can I've been working on is nearly complete and it will be reconnected to the intake system.

I assumed that doing a compression test would tell me how healthy the rings are... If my engine tested around 420 psi on all cylinders, then that means there should be very little blow by? new engine limits are 365-450. I'd like to do another compression test to make sure its the same.
 

TDI817

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CCV doesn't need vacuum.
Wouldn't there be some suction on it from being connected to the intake pipe?

Before I think I had white smoke because there was too much oil coming out the CCV into the intake. I thought maybe the turbo has to much suction on the CCV and its drawing oil. When I disconnected the the CCV from the intake the smoke stopped but only temporarily. The current setup right now is I have the CCV vented to under the car. It is possible that there is too much back pressure on the CCV and its causing oil to leak past the valve stem. I really don't know how oil is being burnt. I'll have more time tomorrow to start taking things apart and look for the problem. I'm going to start with the boost pipes to see if maybe the turbo is leaking oil on the boost side.
 

LNXGUY

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There's no back pressure on the CCV. You sure you're turbo isn't the culprit? If your oil level is fine, I'd probably stop worrying so much about it.
 

TDI817

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There's no back pressure on the CCV. You sure you're turbo isn't the culprit? If your oil level is fine, I'd probably stop worrying so much about it.

Maybe I'm not explaining this correctly. I have modified the CCV. I put a 10ft hose on it so it goes half way down the car. I'm concerned there is too much back pressure on my CCV with that added 10ft hose. Maybe its got a kink in the line somewhere.

My oil levels are not ok. 500km after that oil change I have zero oil remaining. No visible leaks anywhere, no drips, no oil stains. no visible sign of oil in the exhaust.

I've been fairly busy lately and haven't spent much time on the car. Its been parked in my garage ever since and I'm not driving it.
 

LNXGUY

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I bet if you pull that DP it will be full of oil as would the rest of the exhaust system. Turbo is a good bet.
 

TDI817

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After parking the car in the garage for a month I finally decided to take a look at whats going on. I removed the boost pipe from the intercooler to the intake manifold and it was dripping wet with oil.
The CCV is disconnected so the only possible way oil has gotten into the boost pipes is through the compressor side of the turbo. I will be removing the turbo and sending it back to Darkside developments.
The turbo has very low mileage since the last time I had Darkside inspect it. Im a little surprised to see that the turbo is the problem. It was just inspected in November 2013. I reinstalled the rebuild turbo in April 2014, and fired up the engine for the first time with the rebuilt turbo on May 4th 2014. I don't know the total distance I've driven since May 4th, but it must be less than 1000km. 20 days after installing the rebuilt turbo I began this thread with the thoughts that the fuel injectors were the problem. I had been experiencing these symptoms awhile before I began this thread. Looking back it seems like almost instantly the turbo was the problem. Hopefully I can work out something with Darkside to rectify the situation.
 

TDI817

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The turbo has been sent to Darkside and has been inspected. There is lots of damage on the shaft.


Darkside does not think the turbo is the cause of the failure. They said looks like lack of oil or bad oil. I can agree on the lack of oil, that's what caused me to park the car and inspect everything. I suspected it was the turbo because my boost pipes are wet with oil and I have no vent connected to the intake.

Darkside recommended I do an oil pressure test. I've read about people doing an oil pressure test by adding a pressure gauge and checking it while the engine is running. However my turbo is at Darkside, and I can't run the engine. I haven't found anything on pressurizing the oil system while the engine is off and blocking off the turbo oil feed & return. If thats even a possibility. I'm concerned if my turbo looks like that what does the rest of the engine look like...
 

oldpoopie

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Darkside does not think the turbo is the cause of the failure. They said looks like lack of oil or bad oil. I can agree on the lack of oil, that's what caused me to park the car and inspect everything. I suspected it was the turbo because my boost pipes are wet with oil and I have no vent connected to the intake.
Darkside recommended I do an oil pressure test. I've read about people doing an oil pressure test by adding a pressure gauge and checking it while the engine is running. However my turbo is at Darkside, and I can't run the engine. I haven't found anything on pressurizing the oil system while the engine is off and blocking off the turbo oil feed & return. If thats even a possibility. I'm concerned if my turbo looks like that what does the rest of the engine look like...
Why not see if you can screw the oil pressure gauge in to the turbo oil feed line port.?
 

TDI817

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Why not see if you can screw the oil pressure gauge in to the turbo oil feed line port.?

I'm not sure if you can just block off the turbo oil feed with a pressure gauge and still have the engine run properly. I'm not sure how the oil system works. I know there is a designated turbo oil feed port coming off the oil filter assembly but is there pressure being sent directly to that line? or is it kind of like a pressurized manifold where the oil will travel the path of least resistance?

My other concern would be the exhaust gasses… I currently don't have an exhaust manifold installed. Should I install the manifold for the oil pressure test and allow the exhaust to just blow straight up out of the manifold? From the research on oil pressure test i've done it seems you need to let the engine run for some time, while monitoring oil pressure at cold and warm engine temps. I hope running for this duration with out a turbo installed and with only an exhaust manifold on that I don't complicate things further.
 

vw monster

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Yes it's possible oil feed line has main oil pressure. see wear it connects to the block you might need to make a fitting . but being you lost that oil in the intake side you will have more work to do like cleaning pipes and inter cooler be very careful doing this - also have thought injectors tested for tip dribble cuzz white smoke on start up is raw fuel. And good luck with your car.
 

TDI817

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It s possible fuel in oil .
Send your oil to lab and see results.
To be honest I haven't pulled the drain plug yet but there might not be anything left… Dipsticks pretty dry when I checked it before pulling out the turbo. I'm not sure how much oil is required for a test. Also I think these type's of tests are very expensive?



Yes it's possible oil feed line has main oil pressure. see wear it connects to the block you might need to make a fitting . but being you lost that oil in the intake side you will have more work to do like cleaning pipes and inter cooler be very careful doing this - also have thought injectors tested for tip dribble cuzz white smoke on start up is raw fuel. And good luck with your car.

I'm not sure if you have a bentley manual but if you do check out Page 17-7 or more specifically drawing number N17-10001. In that drawing Item #6 is the oil feed and Item #11 is the pressure switch. I was considering removing the pressure switch and threading in a pressure gauge. However Darkside suggested just putting a gauge on the turbo oil feed line. I'm sure either way work, but removing the pressure switch would most likely set off a fault code. I'll most likely just use the turbo oil feed line. As for the oil drain line from the turbo I'll probably just cap it off.
 

Lmannyr

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any updates.... Read through both your threads today. Ouch!

For some reason I like to do my own work...
 
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