Flywheel replacement on a Golf

I just did the Luk Clutch Kit on mine this fall. A lot of the same symptoms that were slowly worsening. Get the 4 inch triple square bits from Amazon. Heads up, when getting the old clutch off, it may be farther gone than you're aware of with other **** also stuck in the way. CV axle hex bolts were stripped on mine and w/o lock plates. Clutch pressure plate was seized off-center and you couldn't access the holes for the 12-point bits without grindering the fingers off. I recommend judicious use of the angle or die grinder as necessary.

What is the LUK "RepSet" clutch that folks are referring to hear?
I was going to go with the 17-050 clutch / flywheel kit on my auto-->5sp. conversion.

When you order all your stuff don't forget a good flywheel locking tool and have a good breaker bar for those TTY flywheel bolts you can thank me later! I used ID parts quiet kit Like it so far, My flywheel had failed so that I had to cut the center ring away to get access to remove the bolts. I have a long piston air hammer that I attempted to use to rotate the ring back to its original position with. No dice I locked the flywheel to attempt that as shocking the crankshaft/timing belt and all the connected parts freaked me out a bit. so I put shopping bags over the inner joints and garbage bag tent around the flywheel bolt pattern area(to contain the mess wear a respirator!) and used a die grinder and a whiz wheel it only took me 15 extra minutes, There are other threads on here that describe this procedure. just plan on a couple days if you do it yourself. I try to be realistic.

Nuje said:

What is the LUK "RepSet" clutch that folks are referring to hear?
I was going to go with the 17-050 clutch / flywheel kit on my auto-->5sp. conversion.

Click to expand...

RepSet is Luk's product branding of flywheel/clutch/pressure plate combo as a bolt-on set. It makes doing the actual clutch replacing easier because they all go on as 1 unit, ignoring a whole bunch of Bentley steps, and then your ready to slap the transmission back on. I was glad for this feature at the time, after doing rear main seal and everything to get to that point. The price drops on those occasionally on Amazon or Ebay too.

That was the Luk part number I installed, 17-050. Some people say that the feel of the Luk is lesser resistance than stock, but I couldn't tell a difference (mine was so broken for so long). Such a great feeling when the job is done though! Note that there's a good chance you'll have to replace the clutch pedal hydraulic components when you realize after the fact that they too are all broken/leaking.

Double check the throw out bearing you receive in your Luk box isn't smashed though!! The RepSet Luk kit is one big unit in a small box and the tiny throw out bearing was smashed from shipping on the first one I got. I didn't notice until it was time to put it on. Whoops...

After stumbling across this thread I’m pretty sure my DMF is going out. I googled VW DMF failure and the videos of that noise is exactly what I’ve been hearing for 2-4 weeks now. I had noticed a noise and just hadn’t got to trying to figure it out...then low and behold I stumbled across this thread.

By accident. In another thread I was asking about engine and trans mounts feeling a vibration (similar to what I did before I replaced the dog bone). A gentlemen mentioned this can happen when the DMF is starting to fail. So when I ran across this thread; it peaked my interest.

Anyway; I’m going to record my car tomorrow and get some opinions; since it’s being talked about here I want to get prepared as to what parts I’ll need. So I’m ready to pull the trigger once I get higher confidence the DMF is the culprit.

Is this all I’ll need:?


Here’s what the kit includes:



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If you do the luk clutch kit you don't have to do any of those alignment steps. Cut/tear off the old one and bolt the whole new clutch/flywheel assembly on. I can almost guarantee you will have to grinder some components off. I used an old grinder with the safety off (wildly dangerous) to fit in there and cut the flywheel and clutch off. There's also a bunch of bolts you will have to replace (Bell housing, mounts, CV axle-trans output, axle nuts, suspension bolts etc). The rear main seal and the clutch slave should be considered for replacement as them leaking could have contributed to broken clutch (oil, brake fluid in Bell housing area) and the rear main can only be done with the clutch off.


P.s.: the shaking is your seized DMF. The conditions you describe sound exactly like what I had.

mandrake slink said:

If you do the luk clutch kit you don't have to do any of those alignment steps. Cut/tear off the old one and bolt the whole new clutch/flywheel assembly on. I can almost guarantee you will have to grinder some components off. I used an old grinder with the safety off (wildly dangerous) to fit in there and cut the flywheel and clutch off. There's also a bunch of bolts you will have to replace (Bell housing, mounts, CV axle-trans output, axle nuts, suspension bolts etc). The rear main seal and the clutch slave should be considered for replacement as them leaking could have contributed to broken clutch (oil, brake fluid in Bell housing area) and the rear main can only be done with the clutch off.


P.s.: the shaking is your seized DMF. The conditions you describe sound exactly like what I had.

Click to expand...

I’ll research into the LUK kit. I’ve liked idparts in the past for making it easy to get all the parts needed by their “add on” option at the bottom of a product page.


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I just put the LUK Repset in my daughters 01 Beetle.


https://www.idparts.com/luk-17-050-clutch-kit-p-740.html