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TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines.

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Old June 14th, 2019, 15:24   #91
xerootg
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I left off with the transfer case clocked at the stock XJ position, BUT because the transmission adapter pushes the transfer case back so far the front driveshaft interferes with the crossmember. I decided to cut the transmission tunnel up to clock the transfer case up, and out of the way.

Hereís what I started with:





The first step was to cut a big enough hole that everything fits, and test fit with the seat frame.



Then I started filling the hole back in, one jigsaw puzzle piece at a time.



The bottom hump needed to be notched to fit the seat frame.



I ended up with this. I used seam sealer to smooth the edges underneath, along with por15 chassis coat and finally underbody rubberizing spray.





Everything fits like a glove!



Hereís my final clocking:

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Old July 11th, 2019, 16:28   #92
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Iíve been super busy on this Jeep! My list of things to do has got much shorter.

The air to water intercooler is pretty neat, as it really shortens the whole thing. I got a kit from frozen boost, with the bosch pump. The bosch pump fits nicely on the passenger side frame rail. I still need to wire it up, and Iím planning on the pump running in the RUN position.







I finished up the fuel delivery system. I settled on a Stanadyne FM100 with a hand primer. I added a 30psi gauge to the filter outlet. I also used 30R9 for the return and reused the supply side. The 30 gallon tank was plumbed so if the Cummins pump fails, the auxiliary straw from the fuel module can just plug and play without dropping the tank.





I plumbed up the power steering system, and added a cooler to the front. I used Russell Performance PowerFlex for the high pressure hose and ATF rated hose for the rest. I used a BMW reservoir and a hasty mount with a hose clamp above the pump. I am really liking the reusable threaded AN fittings you can buy these days.



I also got the Webasto mounted. Iím still waiting for some fittings for it for the fuel supplu, but its not moving.



I bolted a volvo cooling fan to a Jeep fan shroud for cooling. Should be overkill. Iím also using a temperature switch from a golf, threaded into the factory jeep sensor port. More to come on this when I finalize the wiring.



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Old July 11th, 2019, 16:28   #93
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I finished up the boost track. I used 2 inch aluminum tube and silicone joiners to plumb the whole thing. I also spent a lot of time getting the York sc609 bolted up. I’m looking forward to having this guy for belt driven air.





Next steps:
  • Vacuum lines, reservoir and N75 bracket
  • plumb heater, and build overflow bottle
  • Finish AC (replace condenser, evap, lines, heater core while I’m at it)
  • Finish wiring. Have a plan, just need to do it.
  • Make a non-prototype CAN-CCD gateway. This is sitting on my bench stress testing in breadboard form with actual code running the gauges!
  • Get drivelines built
  • Transmission tunnel cover
  • Transfer case linkage.

I’m pretty excited that the front might stay bolted on this time!

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Old July 12th, 2019, 10:18   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xerootg View Post
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Old August 7th, 2019, 09:00   #95
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I've been working away on this for the last couple weeks as expected, BUT last night I hit a snag. The wiring harness was finally in something resembling running condition, so I put 5 gallons of fuel into the tank, pressurized the fuel system, filled the engine with oil, and tried starting it. No dice.

The engine turns over, and what seems like every other stroke, the engine seems like its hitting, but no start happens. I get a thick grey-black smoke from the exhaust after probably 15-20 seconds of cranking. I have a solid 14lbs of fuel pressure at the fuel filter. I tried a BHW and BEW ECU. Neither ECU has any sort of tune beyond stock, but the BHW has been IMMO off'ed and had the "hot start" fix applied. So... What should I be looking for?
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Old August 7th, 2019, 13:10   #96
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Hello!


Can you post the turbo adapter sizes,or draws i would like to run the same turbo with the same manifold!

Thanks!
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Old August 7th, 2019, 17:20   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xerootg View Post
I've been working away on this for the last couple weeks as expected, BUT last night I hit a snag. The wiring harness was finally in something resembling running condition, so I put 5 gallons of fuel into the tank, pressurized the fuel system, filled the engine with oil, and tried starting it. No dice.

The engine turns over, and what seems like every other stroke, the engine seems like its hitting, but no start happens. I get a thick grey-black smoke from the exhaust after probably 15-20 seconds of cranking. I have a solid 14lbs of fuel pressure at the fuel filter. I tried a BHW and BEW ECU. Neither ECU has any sort of tune beyond stock, but the BHW has been IMMO off'ed and had the "hot start" fix applied. So... What should I be looking for?



Codes?
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Old August 9th, 2019, 11:25   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricsi168 View Post
Can you post the turbo adapter sizes,or draws i would like to run the same turbo with the same manifold!
I'm not convinced that its been worth the effort. I'll post the rhinocad drawing, but its been a serious PITA, and doesn't work properly as of today since the actuator had to be swapped from a gt1749va and a bracket fabricated. I'm working through that now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Motohead1 View Post
Codes?
Oh man, where do I start! No codes to speak of. I have "missing message" codes, but that is due to the fact that most of the rest of the vehicle the ECU is expecting is missing. I had the supply and return reversed. The telltale for me was that the pressure on the supply side never dropped. There's a check valve in the return that prevents the shenanigan I tried pulling from working, and the smoke must have just been residual diesel in the fuel supply galley in the head.



When I realized this, I went home early, swapped the lines, and took the jeep for a drive!

Now... I have a coolant leak at the back of the head once the radiator pressurizes, if I hook the N75 up to the turbo, the turbo makes a horrific squealing, and my choice of a cherry bomb makes for a terrible droning at any speed.

What makes a turbo shreak/squeal when the actuator is at 100% vacuum at idle? Both the gt1749va and the gtc1549vz have pull actuators, have the same actuator stroke, and the actuator was adjusted so that at no vacuum the arm was just above the stop. With no vacuum applied, I get some boost as expected, and no shrieking.
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Old August 11th, 2019, 11:36   #99
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Here's what I'm trying to figure out.

https://youtu.be/XOL6iBZZAy4

Is it just the lack of tune? I can't imagine it is, the n75 map in a CGLC has the duty cycle at 100% at idle which matches my tune. I've never heard a turbo make this noise? Anyone?

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Old August 11th, 2019, 18:58   #100
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Eliminate the possibility of a vac leak making that noise by hooking up a hand vac to the actuator. If it still screaming then its the turbo.
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Old August 11th, 2019, 19:00   #101
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Eliminate the possibility of a vac leak making that noise by hooking up a hand vac to the actuator. If it still screaming then its the turbo.
Yeah I did that right after I posted this, it starts at 16 in hg. So... What's wrong with the turbo? I can pick up another used one cheaply on ebay, but I'd personally just like to know what that sound indicates has failed?

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Old August 11th, 2019, 19:19   #102
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Sounds like thrust bearing is shot. Either the turbin or compressor wheel is hitting the housing. Depending on which way its walking.
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Old September 16th, 2019, 23:06   #103
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It is time for my wiring writeup. Iíve put a lot into the wiring on this Jeep. Iím only going to document the non-obvious parts. For the obvious parts, I used this diagram:



AC Control

The AC is the craziest, so Iíll start there. The AC Circuit is broken into three parts:
  1. AC Request Relay
  2. AC Clutch Control Relay
  3. Fan Request Relay

The Jeep controls ground a wire when AC is selected. This for our purposes is called AC_Request. AC_Request on the VW side is 12v+, so we need to flip that around. Next, we have the ďBidirectional Climate ControlĒ circuit (94/50), which in VW goes to either a climatronic, Relay 378 on the B5ís or a Fan Control Module in the A4 types. This pin is pulled to an internal 1.8v supply when AC is allowed by the ECU. This is worthlessly low to us, so I used a couple off the shelf transistors, resistors, and a diode to convert to 12v to drive yet another relay to control the Compressor Clutch. We also need our cycling switches, so we hook those up to ground and to the other side of the clutch control relay.



To waterproof the transistors, I put them inside of a piece of heavy duty waterproof heatshrink.





The next piece of magic, I used a 2 speed Volvo fan and relay. It switches the fan on based on either the low or high wire being connected to ground. In order to do this but only when the jeep is on, we need yet another relay.



Fan Control

The two speed Volvo fan and relay are a good junkyard snag Ė the fans are very high flow and slim, and the relay is well matched to the draw of the massive fan. I mounted the fan relay between the battery and fender, so the wire can remain short. To switch the relay I snagged a thermal switch out of an A4 platform car, 1J0 959 481 A. It threads right into the jeep radiator. I de-pinned a connector (1J0 973 203) I got at the junkyard and connected it up.





1 - Low
2 - Ground
3 - High

Coolant Glowplugs

The coolant glowplugs in the A4 platform are switched by two relays. One is a 70A Bosch Mini, and the other is a standard 40A. The combined circuits are 50A, so this one is super straight forward. Throughout this, I reused my Jeep relay box, which for space reasons is primarily made up of micro relays with a max rating of 20A. Each coolant glowplug is rated at 17A, so we can easily use three relays instead of 2 and keep everything stock in my relay box!



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Old September 16th, 2019, 23:33   #104
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I threw a belt! As predicted by some, the belt walked into the timing cover and shredded all it was worth. Fortunately, I was sitting in the drivers seat and turned it off before any damage could occur. The fix is to use pullies with flanges. Easier said than done! I read somewhere that the recommended maximum bend radius for a pk6 belt is 90mm, so there just aren’t a lot of pullies to pick from if you need a smaller circle. I already went through this selection process once. I settled on an industrial pully from McMaster-Carr 6235K68 for the smooth side of the belt, and a Gates 38082 for the grooved side. The belt length remained constant but is significantly tighter. The McMaster-Carr pully is for industrial belt and has a 6203RS bearing like everything else so it should hold up just fine. I bought a couple so I can keep one in my glove box.



There have been requests for my turbo adapter design – here it is. Let me be clear, I had Matt Whitbread manufacture mine, I do not know what, if any, changes he made.

I was concerned that the exhaust was a tad close to the firewall, so I wrapped it. All in, wrapping a downpipe is pretty straight forward. I used a DEI basalt based wrap, finished it with stainless zip strips, and sealed it with a silicone exhaust temp. I like how it looks!






Last edited by xerootg; September 18th, 2019 at 09:03. Reason: bad link to adapter
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Old September 16th, 2019, 23:59   #105
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One other thing I’ve spent a lot of time on is the transfer case shifter. I really like the looks of the atlas twin stick cable shifter, so I got one. They are quite pricy, and unbeknownst to me use a non-standard cable length, so there was a lot of fab to make it work.



The simplest modification was the EcoBox bracket. I bought Jon Barlow’s bracket for this expecting everything to bolt up. I ended up shortening and flipping the bracket to work with the shorter throw cable of the atlas shifter.



The more complex one – the NP242 has a very long throw. The shortest of shift levers was still too long of a throw for my cable, so I had to fabricate up a bellcrank to lengthen everything. To make matters worse, the bracket I bought for this was from Dirtbound Offroad, and it was incompatible with the strengthened webbing of the EcoBox. I ended up needing to cut it in half to get its mounting ears into place.



I found a new turbo on ebay, the original was definitely failed. I could not find signs of wear, but the bearings don’t feel too hot. Once the new turbo was bolted up, I got a tune from Malone Tuning, and drove to the gas station to fill up. 30 gallons of diesel ain’t cheap!

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