A/C fan not working.

A/C works when driving but not when parked.
Air condition fan not working.
I unplugged the fan weather pak plug and with key on and A/C button pushed on I had no 12vdc power at the plug. Fan spins freely by hand also. I checked the green 30A fuse (4th one down) in the side dash panel it was okay. Removed the 384 relay and took it apart. No visible cracks in solder.

Do i just buy another 384 relay and see what happens?
Is there another fuse under the dash on that fuse panel behind the 384 relay?

Is the AC compressor running at idle when stopped, or does it shut off as well?

The 384 Relay is for the A/C compressor.

The Cooling Fan a/c Relay is 373 and is to the left of the 384 Relay.

But there are actually a total of 4 relays for the one cooling fan. Two more 373 relays and a 370. They are there to kick on the fan when the coolant is temp is too high at various fan speeds.


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A/C compressor is fine. It cycles on/off correctly. The A/C fan in front of the radiator is not running. I checked and there is no 12v power reaching the fan (A/C running).

Dang I just ordered the 384 relay! I will buy a 373 relay and see what happens.

Thanks

To save time on ordering the relay, you can try to swap out the a/c 373 relay with the other fan speed control 373 relays found on the smaller relay board or perhaps even use the fuel pump 373 relay. But then again that might cause your engine not to start.


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Never ever seen anything on the B5's electric fan system fail besides the fan motor itself.

I do not think it comes on with the key on and A/C switched on... I think the engine needs to be running.

Easy to check, though, as the plug is up high near the PS reservoir. Brown is ground (always), and the other wire is power when the fan is requested. You can put power straight to that wire and ground the brown one and see if the fan comes on (that is what I do).

There is a resistor block down low on the left (driver) unibody rail, behind the bumper mount, that is responsible for the low speed. These still use the old leftover from the early '90s setup for the cooling fan control. There is no solid state control module, just a couple relays and a resistor.

Beware that the fan's wire harness is LONG, and routes from the top of the fan motor DOWN the middle of the shroud, under the hood latch support bracket, then down below the engine driven fan shroud, then back UP the other side. It is a fiddly job to get it routed correctly but you can do it without taking anything else out aside from the cold air inlet duct behind the grill. There are other wires in the stays, too (for the hood latch switch, refrigerant pressure sensor, compressor clutch, etc.) so be careful to make sure it all gets put back securely so nothing rubs through anywhere.

The fan itself is just twist locked in place, with one small Phillips screw (up top) keeping it from turning. There is also a release tab down low that can be tricky to get at if you've never done one before. Take the screw out, fish the harness out so it is hanging loose out the front of the car, then reach down and pull the tab and rotate the whole fan about 1/2 inch and then it will come right out.

Mine comes on not running with ac on. Shes squeaky!

Brian thank you so much for replying to my thread. Reading what you wrote above I double checked my fan. Two months ago I thought I was checking the A/C fan weather pak connector (the one by the hood catch) WRONG. The plug is in front of the PS reservoir (two wire plug). Engine running A/C on I had 13.8VDC. Fan is getting power. Fan is BAD! Thank you Oilhammer so much.

That is awesome, glad you got it figured out!

Yes, that is great! Thanks for reporting back.