Carbonizing problem in a NEW TurboCharger

MAXRPM · Mar 22, 2019

Lightflyer1 said:
What a load. Multiple other posts have already said this isn't the way to accomplish what is being discussed. All you need to do is rev the engine, usually in lower gears, like when entering the onramp to the Interstate and other highways. The is no requirement to speed or drive like an idiot with the PD after you. You can hit these rpms in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears easily without going over the speed limit or acting a fool. The car has no requirement to be driven aggressively. Driving this way will cause unneeded wear and tear on the car. If you have excess carbon in 6 months or less there is something else wrong with your car that needs to be addressed. Not driving habits or additives.

It seems that you did not read my post well, I said For members that drive their tdis like a granny they.need to do that, I did not say for members that drive tdis moderately and keep all the digestive trac system in check, how many times I have cracked intercooler pipes from friends to find good amount of oil and turbo with sticking vanes, that really tells what kind of a driver they are.

PakProtector · Mar 23, 2019

Motor oil is fairly easy. This beast of yours needs at least 15W-40 diesel-rated oil. Rotella, Delvac, or a few others. The 5W-40 is synthetic( Mobil 1, Rotella T6, etc ), and will stand up to heat soak in the turbo better, as well as flowing more easily when cold...which will make the car start quicker. Use a good filter too. Mann is one...

they are available from vendors like ID Parts for a very reasonable price.
cheers,
Douglas

Lightflyer1 · Mar 23, 2019

MAXRPM said:
It seems that you did not read my post well, I said For members that drive their tdis like a granny they.need to do that, I did not say for members that drive tdis moderately and keep all the digestive trac system in check, how many times I have cracked intercooler pipes from friends to find good amount of oil and turbo with sticking vanes, that really tells what kind of a driver they are.

Even those who drive like granny's don't need to drive like you suggest.

HowardWalker · Mar 23, 2019

It isn't a cigarette lighter

It is the front 12 volt accessory plug. One in the front, and one in the rear. The rear one works, but the front one doesn't. I pulled and checked fuses #10, #41 and #43 with an ohmmeter. They were good.

Going to get the oil change tomorrow (not at jiffylube) and have the belts replaced.

STDOUBT said:
The rear ACCESSORY socket works but the front one doesn't.
Cigarette (12V outlet) is #41.
But I would say Timing Belt is priority #1.
Trusted Mechanics are a must. Face it, these cars are rare. Not many really know them. Don't tackle it yourself unless you're willing to read this 3 times:
http://pics.tdiclub.com/pdf/a4timingbelt.pdf PDF warning

Lightflyer1 · Mar 23, 2019

Remember it isn't just the belts that need replaced. Check this site out for a kit that can be bought or as a reference for what your chosen mechanic should use. A trusted mechanic is preferred for this job.

https://www.dieselgeek.com/collections/vw-tdi-timing-belt-kits/timing-belt-kit_golf-tdi-1999-5-2003

IndigoBlueWagon · Mar 23, 2019

People are throwing a lot of info out here, some of it good, some not so much. You should get in touch with this guru: http://forums.tdiclub.com/member.php?u=16069 Oliver is a ways from you but he knows these cars cold. It doesn't sound like the shop you're using does, and Jiffy Lube certainly doesn't. If you like the car and want to keep it, it's important to get it in the care of someone who knows what they're doing and also can help you make good decisions about caring for the car looking forward. If someone here knows a good guru that's closer (ninedee_golf_tdi is in Stafford, but it appears he's retired), then perhaps they'll suggest someone.

Although it helps TDIs to run them hard occasionally, if you have to do it to keep a turbo from carboning up (if it actually was) in a few months then something's wrong. Bad hardware, faulty install, car not making boost, clogged cat...the potential items are many. You're not going to get an accurate diagnosis on the internet. See an expert.

Ol'Rattler · Mar 23, 2019

PakProtector said:
Motor oil is fairly easy. This beast of yours needs at least 15W-40 diesel-rated oil. Rotella, Delvac, or a few others. The 5W-40 is synthetic( Mobil 1, Rotella T6, etc ), and will stand up to heat soak in the turbo better, as well as flowing more easily when cold...which will make the car start quicker. Use a good filter too. Mann is one... they are available from vendors like ID Parts for a very reasonable price.
cheers,
Douglas

Why would you put 15W-40 in a TDI? Typo maybe? I'm coming up on 190K miles with 5W-40 with zero issues.

iluvmydiesels · Mar 23, 2019

i think links were posted for you. it may have been lightflyer, i dont know if a belt change for your model was posted for you. you should look up that for full timing belt service.

IndigoBlueWagon said:
Although it helps TDIs to run them hard occasionally, if you have to do it to keep a turbo from carboning up (if it actually was) in a few months then something's wrong. Bad hardware, faulty install, car not making boost, clogged cat...the potential items are many. You're not going to get an accurate diagnosis on the internet. See an expert.

short, around the town slow trips can compound several of his problem.
i brought it up, but had pointed out several other that can compound. wrong oil &filter, not to say a quiki lube oil change.
it could be with the above, wrong oil, service, slow in town driving, perhaps short trips. who knows what else as far as needing the right service. he recently replaced a turbo, may have been oil getting past the seal. these problems can compound, such as deposits in cylinders and/or rings, and more. who knows the condition of the injectors.
that and possibly egr not working right, intake clogging. these are speculation, above seems not.

IndigoBlueWagon · Mar 23, 2019

i think we're agreeing here. There's any number of reasons he could be having this issue. But I don't believe driving habits alone should cause a turbo to need removal and cleaning six months after install.

iluvmydiesels · Mar 23, 2019

IndigoBlueWagon said:
But I don't believe driving habits alone should cause a turbo to need removal and cleaning six months after install.

no it wont, by its self. but how many years has he driven like this? this can compound. not correct service can do as well. how long for this as well? both add up, thats not correct, compound each other and add up. other problems develop.

Franko6 · Mar 24, 2019

Iluv, it was 6 months...O'Rattler, X2.

There is a very good mechanic, in Stafford, VA, as I said before. Depending where in VA you live, probably closer. Last I knew, Oliver lived in Baltimore. I would trust either mechanic with my car.

An engine that is driven below recommended rpm's will cause sooting, but then, if I were the mechanic seeing that, I'd probably have driven the car 'for effect', rather than tear down a turbo. Soot can be burnt out by driving correctly. As example, one of the other local experts from Missouri (OilHammer)will get a car that is running poorly and his 'fix' is to drive the vehicle 40 miles back and forth from his home to work for a week. The the customer gets the car back, they ask "What did you do?!?" His response is, "I drove it." Actually, drove it correctly...I believe the real need for your turbo tear-down was at best, questionable.

Injectors that are not running properly will also cause sooting and show poor fuel economy. That usually can be determined by checking a few blocks in the VAG-COM software.

Last thing, Howard, it's not 'belts', it's a timing belt KIT. Changing out only the timing belt is another recipe for disaster. 3 Rollers, water pump, Tensioner, seals, timing belt and serpentine belt; that is the kit...and someone with the proper tools to do it right.

Questions? I am available and have the reputation to back what I am talking about.

iluvmydiesels · Mar 24, 2019

Franko6 said:
Iluv, it was 6 months.

its been 6months since he changed in a new turbo. thats not even enough time for a second oil change. and hes implied going to jiffy lube, for how long? how many oil changes have they done. id have other questions as to before this.
the main other questions tho, are how long have you owned the car, HW? how long have you been treating it like this?
some of these problem makers may be adding up on each other, like build up in combustion chambers, upper cyls, who knows rings and etc, exhaust, and going back to intake, causing more problems, build up etc. speculation, but may his/part of his problem.
clearing it up,,uuh can be try and see if running it right can help out. some treatments may help, its try and see. but he used that sea foam for a time, a full can in fill ups. other added treatments for 'clearing/cleaning up', id suggest against, due to his using a lot of that stuff.

MAXRPM · Mar 24, 2019

Franko6 said:
Iluv, it was 6 months...O'Rattler, X2.

There is a very good mechanic, in Stafford, VA, as I said before. Depending where in VA you live, probably closer. Last I knew, Oliver lived in Baltimore. I would trust either mechanic with my car.

An engine that is driven below recommended rpm's will cause sooting, but then, if I were the mechanic seeing that, I'd probably have driven the car 'for effect', rather than tear down a turbo. Soot can be burnt out by driving correctly. As example, one of the other local experts from Missouri (OilHammer)will get a car that is running poorly and his 'fix' is to drive the vehicle 40 miles back and forth from his home to work for a week. The the customer gets the car back, they ask "What did you do?!?" His response is, "I drove it." Actually, drove it correctly...I believe the real need for your turbo tear-down was at best, questionable.

Injectors that are not running properly will also cause sooting and show poor fuel economy. That usually can be determined by checking a few blocks in the VAG-COM software.

Last thing, Howard, it's not 'belts', it's a timing belt KIT. Changing out only the timing belt is another recipe for disaster. 3 Rollers, water pump, Tensioner, seals, timing belt and serpentine belt; that is the kit...and someone with the proper tools to do it right.

Questions? I am available and have the reputation to back what I am talking about.

Your comments are Right on target about how to drive a TDI, and I bet you Oilhammer not only cleans the soot from cars but also all that oil that stays in all IC piping and intercooler, i bet you after Oilhammer finishes his italian driving tune up car is alive again.

Rob Mayercik · Mar 25, 2019

Ol'Rattler said:
Why would you put 15W-40 in a TDI? Typo maybe? I'm coming up on 190K miles with 5W-40 with zero issues.

The manual calls for 5w40 full synthetic in a 2002. 15w40 is not the right oil.

For a 2002, you can use Delvac 1, Mobil 1 TDT (Turbo Diesel Truck), or Rotella T6 with confidence that it's the right stuff for your car, just to name a couple that have been mentioned here many times.

Franko6 · Mar 28, 2019

Well, I think we scared him off. No response from Howard in days...

HowardWalker · Mar 30, 2019

That was the problem

BobnOH said:
Possible the car has the wrong oil? Scrapping carbon off the turbo innards after 6 months sounds hokey.

I changed to Shell Rotella 5W-40 and no more black smoke.

HowardWalker · Mar 30, 2019

The timing belt and water pump (they come as a kit) were changed.

As was the serpentine belt.

HowardWalker said:
Around 216,000. I can get the Shell Rolella and the oil filter from AutoZone

Timing belt, huh? It might be a good idea to have it changed, before it breaks. Is the TDI an "interference engine"? If it is, the engine will suffer some serious damage, if the timing belt breaks.

As to the dip stick. VW was crazy to install a yellow plastic sleeve for the dipstick. I had to order 3 different sleeves, to make sure I received the correct one. When I bought the car, I found out (much later) the yellow plastic sleeve was cracked, and the previous owner applied duct tape to it to hold it together

This car had a tough life before I bought it. The repairs, so far: front and rear rotors and pads; front struts and rear shocks; and of course new wipers all around. And the clutch went out. The clutch plate lining SHATTERED. And the replacement only comes as a kit - clutch plate, pressure plate, bearing, and flywheel. No big deal when the clutch plate shattered it scored the pressure plate. Replaced it with a Borg Warner kit. I wish it had been a Schaffer

I am still trying to source the door frame "bulb style" weather stripping. And in another posting, I am trying to find out which fuse goes to the front ACCESSORY socket. This vehicle doesn't have a cigarette lighter. The rear ACCESSORY socket works but the front one doesn't. If no one knows, I'll just get the ohmmeter out and check the likely suspects

And, at some point in time, I will need to replace the battery. The Chilton's manual stated that I have to keep power to the ECM when I change the battery (not difficult), otherwise the ECM will loose its programming, and go into a LIMP mode. Why did VW do this? Every other vehicle that I have ever owned, I could replace the battery, and the ECM ROM chip would reload the factory programming. After driving the vehicle for awhile, the ECM would "relearn" and reprogram itself.

HowardWalker · Mar 30, 2019

I have been reading the posts

I have asked what I believe are pertinent questions, and I just watch and read the posts. I first started driving in 1968. If there was a "gas war" in progress, between competing stations, I could buy gas for 15 cents a gallon.

Franko6 said:
Well, I think we scared him off. No response from Howard in days...

Carbonizing problem in a NEW TurboCharger

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