How can checking the static timing on a TDI pump be "messing" with pump??? It is done in the same manor as with a IDI pump - in fact to find out one can check on presently correctly timed motor to see what indication is - if one shouldn't check the static timing on a TDI pump then one shouldn't check static timing on and IDI pump - they are the same process
heer, these are two separate situations. the IDI pump was made for static timing, using a dial indicator and getting the mark/measurement as per you engine is very strong and accurate for your (that motor)style of timing.
a good dial is +/-0.002mm tolerance. the reading on a dial goes, and your measuring to 0.01mm.
an mTDI pump will be similar in timing. you may need a bigger adapter to fit pumps threads, and the timing measurement isnot a standard. its going to be a ranger rover 3000(?) pump made to fit our/your model. i ve seen timing measurement of about 1.250mm, i think this may be a starting point, and as you feel your set up, up adjust. rather 'wild' to older IDI set-ups.
for our TDI, static pump timing when doing work, or changing belt, is essentially using the pump pin for initial timing. if car, after completing work, starts cold, thats what you want. normally the next step is to warm up the car, use vag-com and final time the pump, while running.
i dont think your really supposed to remove that center bolt, that for older IDI pumps was the timing hole.
if you have a new set up or want a good spot to set up for timing/start. i set the pump about the middle of its movement, have inj lines off, loosen the mount screws, use pin, and set about near its middle.
for cars that wont start in static pump position, or you may well know by now. a lot of pumps need to be bumped up/advanced one belt tooth, as two of mine need to be. in this case, you need to again set up pump, its easiest to, before setting up belt, to have inj lines off, loosen mount nuts/bolts, turn the pump all the way away from engine, this is full retard, as you have the pump ready to bump 1tooth advance, when you turn the pump fully away from motor, bump up toward(forward) some. not too much. i tighten top mount bolt, leaving the 2 nuts inside the pulley loose, not too loose, and remove the lower mount bolt. just until you warm up and make the final adjust.
interesting point, the last two times i bumped off my belt, i didnt have to even adjust the pump after. the last time i put in a new, better camshaft, and lifters. i got an ok febi cam from autohaus, was a good price at $120, and a set of ina lifters, i got from somewhere. the time before, i forget, it may have been a while. i may have found a plastic water pump, the last person who was supposed to take care of the car let get put in, well i swapped in a metal impeller w/p, and some other stuff. anyways i have to bump my pump up one timing tooth. but i set the crank and cam right about on, cam is about 0.00 tight measurement. both times, put belt back on, and set up crank, cam, and pump w/pin. left pump in same spot. timing stayed right on.
