arniewallace
Well-known member
Gave her a clean.
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Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
What did you do to your MKIV today?
- Thread starter TDIGAZ
- Start date
TDI-WNC
Well-known member
Finally replaced the stock speakers in the rear doors (had done front a while back). Was really surprised to see the sticker on the magnet for the stock rated them at 20 Watts RMS.
The cheap replacements, which sound great, are rated at 180 Watts RMS/ 360 max.
The cheap replacements, which sound great, are rated at 180 Watts RMS/ 360 max.
ItAintRodKnock
Veteran Member
Plug and play, with the oem "head unit" and wiring?
Would be interested in dling this after my next Timing belt, and a new turbo.
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PakProtector
Veteran Member
I think you may be surprised at how little an amp it would take to melt down those 180W rms rated speakers. The Electrovoice EVM-12L is a professional sound reinforcement 12"-er with a 2.5" voice coil, and they are only rated for 200W rms.
cheers,
Douglas
TDI-WNC
Well-known member
Not plug & play, original spakers have a 4 wire plug. Two of the wires (the black and white) are for the tweeter in the door, the other are for the speaker.
Splice them together, and you will have to extend them about 4 inches, and crimp on the correct spade connectors, and run then into the door.
Old speakers are riveted in, you will need to drill the rivets out, then use adapter ring that comes with many speakers and drill mounting holes.
If you have a 18-19 year old car, I can guarantee your speakers are totally toast.
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TDIGAZ
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2008
- Location
- Eastern Ontario, Canada
- TDI
- Current: 2003 Jetta GLS Grey 5 spd. Previous: 2003 Jetta GLS Silver 5 spd (lost in a collision)
Installed my Michelin X-Ice X-I3 winter tires and slid sheets of Coroplast in front of the radiator. Also cleaned and lubed (copper anti-seize) the caliper pins on both rear calipers.
I know it's officially still over 6 weeks away, but let me the first to say "Winter Sucks".
I know it's officially still over 6 weeks away, but let me the first to say "Winter Sucks".
Nero Morg
Top Post Dawg
Been thinking of doing that to my own car. Yeah not as cold here as it is for you, but I still have to drive at least 8 miles before I hit operating temp. And on the highway it dips on occasion.
Dhawk12
Veteran Member
Here's the debate of the day. I've always used antiseize on the caliper pins as well, but I've been hearing lately this is not correct as antiseize is a poor lubricant for this application due to the granules in it, and can actually cause premature wear on components (think wet sanding), and can "dry" up leaving parts seized. Curious to hear others thoughts.
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PakProtector
Veteran Member
That depends on the antisieze. The usual I'd not use for that purpose. I'd want the particles to be moly-disulfide, and the grease holding them together to have a bit of EP and anti-corrosion content. This on top of a base that does not bleed the oil from suspension very fast.
cheers,
Douglas
cheers,
Douglas
DMan1198
Well-known member
Pulled the front bumper, and fender liners, cleaned all the built up dirt, and ripped the foam out. Also pull the cowl to try to figure out the brake light issue I’ve been having. Vcds indicates the ecm is receiving the brake switch signal, and it has voltage to the back if nothing is plugged in, so I suspect I’m looking for a damaged wire. I really hate the tape they used.
PakProtector
Veteran Member
Probe for voltage with a load. A meter is around 10 MOhm input resistance. It is effectively an open circuit at these voltages. Put a 1k resistor across the leads and look for voltage again.
cheers,
Douglas
cheers,
Douglas
DMan1198
Well-known member
With a load voltage drops to ~.3v on one plug, and there’s 7v on the other, but it won’t illuminate the bulb.
PakProtector
Veteran Member
For getting at a wiring harness, get a seam ripper.
cheers,
Douglas
cheers,
Douglas
Rrusse11
Veteran Member
I'd suggest that either the coolant temp sensor is bad, or your thermostat.
For a man of your talents, should be quick and ez. The thermostat fails or
sticks open, leading to slow warmups. The "dips" are likely to it not shutting down. I had similar symptoms. I'm up to temp on the gauge in 10mins.
I will do the pipe foam mod soon, we haven't had a frost yet
but.
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Nero Morg
Top Post Dawg
Already replaced temp sensor, I have an OEM thermostat ready to go in, but lazy. Maybe tomorrow.
Nuje
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2005
- Location
- Island near Vancouver
- TDI
- 2015 Sportwagen; Golf GLS 2002 (swap from 2L gas); 2016 A3 e-tron
I was told to use a synthetic silicone-based lube. Kind to the rubber boots over the slider pins, handles the heat, and doesn't dry out.
Done that on the last couple of brake jobs and everything seems to be good.
ItAintRodKnock
Veteran Member
Do the "grab handle" Sunglass Holders still bring a decent value?
Did a junkyard hop for some connectors to make a link, so my homelink functions in the mk4 golf. Pretty exciting, not that it'll be used much. Got an inexpensive, brand new looking, stubby antenna off a ford Fusion too.
Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
Did a junkyard hop for some connectors to make a link, so my homelink functions in the mk4 golf. Pretty exciting, not that it'll be used much. Got an inexpensive, brand new looking, stubby antenna off a ford Fusion too.
Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
RexNICO
Veteran Member
Not really, maybe $20 shipped.
I finally went for an App based garage control. It ties into the “door button” wires and adds a sensor to let you monitor if the door is open or closed. It also supports geofencing AND does not require a home smart hub system, just WiFi.
PakProtector
Veteran Member
Did my 110k oil change on the BEW Jetta. Ventilated the IC inlet tank with a drill and then an M4 tap. Drained just a few tsp of oil from it. Installed proper bolt to plug the drain hole...
Acquired a T60 bit and began teardown practice on 'spare tdi transmission No.1' in preparation for doing a .717 swap on the BEW Jetta. Need a T40 bit for the yoke bolt...LOL
cheers,
Douglas
Acquired a T60 bit and began teardown practice on 'spare tdi transmission No.1' in preparation for doing a .717 swap on the BEW Jetta. Need a T40 bit for the yoke bolt...LOL
cheers,
Douglas
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gmenounos
Vendor
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2003
- Location
- Watertown, MA, USA
- TDI
- '99.5 Golf GLS, '01 Jetta GLX Wagon (TDI conversion)
Replaced the serpentine belt tensioner and idler pulley in the Golf.
For a while the car had been making a whining sound at 2000+ rpm that sounded like the whine a transmission makes when you drive in reverse. I was thinking the transmission was on its way out but luckily it was coming from one or both of the above parts.
For a while the car had been making a whining sound at 2000+ rpm that sounded like the whine a transmission makes when you drive in reverse. I was thinking the transmission was on its way out but luckily it was coming from one or both of the above parts.
gmenounos
Vendor
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2003
- Location
- Watertown, MA, USA
- TDI
- '99.5 Golf GLS, '01 Jetta GLX Wagon (TDI conversion)
I just had the windshield replaced on the wagon for the same reason. The old windshield was made by Fuyao so probably not OEM. It had been in the car since I bought it 10 years ago. It always had a couple of small cracks that I'd been hoping would grow big enough for insurance to cover the replacement but they never got any bigger. Finally got sick of the glare from the pitting and paid out of pocket. Wish I'd done that years ago. So much easier to see!
romad
Top Post Dawg
Link?
Rrusse11
Veteran Member
Did my yearly safety check and my guru found a bit of play in my left front wheel. In less than an hour I had both sides with new outer tie rod ends, thanks Dwayne & Norm of DR Auto. Watching these guys work is amazing. Parts in stock and they get it done with speed and efficeincy.
No alignment machine unfortunately, so we eyeballed it and 2 days later
I had my other trusted mechanic setting it up with .5 degrees of toe.
The car was sensitive to road conditions, now it's even more attuned. Just enough toe to give straightline stability at speed, sensitive enough to feel every crown and bump in the surface without being in any way jarring or stiff. Road feel is exceptional, the suspension on new OEM bushings is wonderfull, I have no need or desire for "better" polyurethane anywhere.
The catchcan is doing it's job, and the turbo is running smoother than ever. A PD airbox has arrived with the larger diameter MAF and a large metal turbo inlet pipe. Should give more air and better efficiency.
I'll talk to Jeff of RC about programming my spare CCM with a revised tune for the 80mm MAF.
Dropped in to DR Auto this morning to give a report on the front end,
and ended up in a cinch clamp discussion. I've been doing plumbing on my 250yr old house, and have gone with Pex for a repair on the main shutoff valve leading in from the main. One plumbing company's quote of $800 was so over the top, I decided to buy the tools and do it myself.
Turns out my guru has the crimp tool, where it's used in VWs et al. for boots, fuel lines, and the like. Interesting system that has a broader range of applications than I realised when I got the tools, (keeping it on topic {) ).
No alignment machine unfortunately, so we eyeballed it and 2 days later
I had my other trusted mechanic setting it up with .5 degrees of toe.
The car was sensitive to road conditions, now it's even more attuned. Just enough toe to give straightline stability at speed, sensitive enough to feel every crown and bump in the surface without being in any way jarring or stiff. Road feel is exceptional, the suspension on new OEM bushings is wonderfull, I have no need or desire for "better" polyurethane anywhere.
The catchcan is doing it's job, and the turbo is running smoother than ever. A PD airbox has arrived with the larger diameter MAF and a large metal turbo inlet pipe. Should give more air and better efficiency.
I'll talk to Jeff of RC about programming my spare CCM with a revised tune for the 80mm MAF.
Dropped in to DR Auto this morning to give a report on the front end,
and ended up in a cinch clamp discussion. I've been doing plumbing on my 250yr old house, and have gone with Pex for a repair on the main shutoff valve leading in from the main. One plumbing company's quote of $800 was so over the top, I decided to buy the tools and do it myself.
Turns out my guru has the crimp tool, where it's used in VWs et al. for boots, fuel lines, and the like. Interesting system that has a broader range of applications than I realised when I got the tools, (keeping it on topic {
) ).
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PakProtector
Veteran Member
You seem to have discovered the Oetiker Clamp...
cheers,
Douglas
cheers,
Douglas
RexNICO
Veteran Member
I went with the NXG-200, the going rate is about $100.
https://getnexx.com/pages/nexx-gara...MI1t2z7sTk5QIVi5-zCh1m9g1QEAAYASAAEgLeLfD_BwE
One of the keys for me, is that it does not require a “smart home hub”, though it can be connected to one. It does require a strong WiFi signal.
Most reviews, etc. you’ll find are for the NXG-100 (wires sensor & no external WiFi antenna), so keep that in mind. The wireless sensor & external WiFi antenna of then NXG-200 make the installation and function better.
I have not set-up any geofencing features yet, so can’t speak to that feature.
Rrusse11
Veteran Member
You seem to have discovered the Oetiker Clamp...
cheers,
Douglas
That's it! Now I know what to call it, {
)
PakProtector
Veteran Member
Not all are created equal. The ones with a tongue under the clamping bit maintain a much more even sealing pressure. The ones w/o( that have just a single run of clamp strap around) are quite likely to leak just under the clamped bit.That's it! Now I know what to call it, {
cheers,
Douglas
Rrusse11
Veteran Member
Gotcha'. Same difference with the standard hose clamp and "liner" clamps.
Keep on edjercatin' me here and I'll have to send you a pie.