IP will not prime

MadScience

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2002 Golf GLS TDI 5spd; 2002 Golf GL TDI 5psd; 1998 Beetle TDI 5spd (sold); 2001 Jetta TDI 5spd swap
Hi all,

I just replaced the seals on the IP on my 01 Jetta as it was leaking badly. I have done this before and everything seemed to go fine. Now I cannot get the IP to prime. I used my mityvac at first and it wouldn't pull any vacuum at all. I switched to a topside oil extractor and I can hear the pump sucking IN air as fast as I can suck it OUT.

At first I figured it was a head seal issue even though I was every careful and verified the seal of seated correctly. I started from the beginning and installed a new seal again. I verified the head seal was seated with a mirror. Same result.

Any ideas? I am at a loss...
 

burn_your_money

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Spray it with soap water and pressurize the pump. Good seals can handle 70 psi no problem if not higher (I forget the specs off the top of my head).



How far apart did you have the pump?
 

MadScience

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Good idea. I will give that a try

I wound the pump head out the specified amount and had the dieselgeek screw to avoid over doing it. I had the pump 'on cam'
 

MadScience

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Can't see any bubbles but it will only go it 25psi with the air pump running. But it just push air through the fuel lines into the cylinders?
 

MadScience

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I get fuel in the return line to the fuel filter when I apply vacuum but not from the return line from the injectors to the IP. Strange...
 

burn_your_money

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Yeah, depending where the pump is, it will try and push it out the injectors. It'll take more pressure than your compressor can make to pop them off though.



If you only did the head o-ring and nothing else was disturbed, I would think you rolled the o-ring.



When you are pulling vacuum on the pump, you have the return line pinched shut right?
 

WildChild80

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I prime through the return line, leave the small line from the injectors and suck on the biggun

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 

AndyBees

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Southeast Kentucky
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Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
I've re-sealed several IPs on the ALH engine, three in the last 4 months.

I always use my "cheap to make" over-head device to prime the pump. It is easy to set-up and the gravity feed will fill the IP very fast.

Yes, fuel will flow out at least one Injector Port on the Pump Head.

I'd never put Air Pressure on the IP. You risk blowing the seal on the Pump Shaft... that would not be good.

Below is a pic of my set-up. I've never hand one to not start using this method and no jacking around for two hours.. 3 to 5 minutes max. Once I get it started, I let the engine idle for at least a half hour with my favorite formula of additives to lube and clean everything.... notice, it does have a filter on the bottom.



If interested in how I made the device, below is a link with more pics and narrative. Scroll down to post #19

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=5448473#post5448473
 

MadScience

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"When you are pulling vacuum on the pump, you have the return line pinched shut right?"

No, I am not doing that. Didn't know about that.

I replaced the top cover and quantity adjuster seals too. It is possible the seal rolled getting it over the pump head. I am not sure how to avoid that.

May be I just need to keep at it from the fuel filter return line.

AnyBees, that's a cool device you made there!
 

WildChild80

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Take the return line off the IP and draw it through there, no need to clamp anything it you use the return line coming off the IP.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 

MadScience

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Thanks. I will give it another go tomorrow. Does it help to loosen the fuel tank cap?
 

AndyBees

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If you have the return hose off at the filter, loosening the fuel tank cap wouldn't make any difference. When you are pulling fuel from the IP on the return side air will go in at the fuel filter return nipple heading for the tank.

Once you are pretty sure the Injection Pump is full or near full of fuel, reconnect the hose(s), loosen the nuts on the injector pipes at the injectors..... crank the engine over about 5 to 10 seconds, maybe just a bit more. Tighten the nuts and attempt to start.. if no start, repeat the bled process. It will start.

I've ran out of fuel and got the engine going in less than 10 minutes.
 

MadScience

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All good! I pulled vacuum on the fuel filter return line using my oil extractor and left it while we ate dinner. Cracked the injector lines, cranked it and saw fuel....good sign. Nipped them up and it fired right up. After warm up the IP was 5.4 so I knocked it down to 3.2.

No leaks so far...

Thanks for the help fellas!
 

wonneber

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Does it help to loosen the fuel tank cap?
When the cap is on it presses a vent valve and is open.
Look in the fill hole on the left side.

If you fill up and hold the valve open with the nozzle you can get another gallon or two in.
Some pull the valve out to make it easier. :)
 

MadScience

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When the cap is on it presses a vent valve and is open.
Look in the fill hole on the left side.
If you fill up and hold the valve open with the nozzle you can get another gallon or two in.
Some pull the valve out to make it easier. :)
That valve is long gone ;-)
 
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