Turbo bearing going out...

Mehrl38

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Been sometime now but I am back to the TDI club. Long story short, just bought an 03 ALH 5 speed with 272K on it. At idle or holding steady between 1100-1500 rpm the turbo will "flutter" up and down but once rpms are higher 1800 or more the turbo boots steady and the flutter is gone. I can hear the bearing at while at a stop light as well. This all started last week when I was on my commute home and while cruising 80mph the boost would come in and come out and I could not hold any speed while going up a hill. Reminded me of limp mode but the turbo was still spooling, no black smoke or anything so I crossed out the limp mode. Could not find anything that stuck out, broken or damaged while looking it over. Took the car back out and did not lose boost like it did on my commute home. Still flutters though.
My question is what turbo replacements have anyone went with? I do not plan to go the VNT17 because of the mileage on the car and I do not plan to boost. This is my daily driver for work. It seems like there are countless options out there. The frustration comes from a majority of the kits not referencing the correct OE number (I believe is 03G253014R) and I am not sure of what the difference would be as they still state that it will work/direct replacement for 2003 ALH Jetta TDI. Any info helps!
This is one option that I have found for example.
New Turbo Replacement
 

WildChild80

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If you can get a 17 cheaper than a 15 it'll still act like a 15. It's based on what the car wants, the 17 is capable of more power but unless you're tuned for it you'll never notice the difference

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flee

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2002 Jetta GLS wagon
The first issue you describe doesn't sound like a turbo fault and may be vacuum related.
Check the vacuum system and actuator.
If you are hearing the 'bearing' it should get louder as revs increase.
 
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IndigoBlueWagon

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These turbos don't have bearings. The impeller shaft floats on a cushion of oil. If you got debris into the compressor or turbine, the wheel could be touching the housing or the blades could be bent, causing noise. Otherwise I'd look for a boost leak. Fluctuating boost sounds more like a boost control issue than a failing turbo.

I'd run some boost logs and also check actuator action to see if all's good before replacing the turbo.
 
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Mehrl38

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Indigo,Flee,Wildshild and Jokila,

I appreciate the information. I did not think about the actuator nor did I know that was a possibility. I will check that tomorrow! Fingers crossed.

Cheers!
 

wonneber

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You may want to log the boost and N75 action with VCDS as mentioned above.
I wouldn't rule out a vacuum issue or boost leak.
 

Mehrl38

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You may want to log the boost and N75 action with VCDS as mentioned above.
I wouldn't rule out a vacuum issue or boost leak.
I do not have a VCDS or VAG-COM but I had thought about replacing all of the lines anyways to rule out any leaks. With 274K miles on it, I figure it wouldn't be a bad idea anyway. On my previous TDI's I have run into leaks and I hope I do not have to go down that road again.
 

Mehrl38

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VNT Actuator is working properly. Here is the checklist so far / what I have found:
The pressure pump seems to have a leak I would say. Thoughts? Have you ran into this before? Easy fix by replacing a seal? My thoughts are my at low vacuum, if the seal is broke, air seeps by and that is my up and down issue with boost. But when I have higher rpm/boost it is able to hold boost because the tear is small in the seal (i hope). LMK if I am wrong

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photobucket was wigging out so I made a shutterfly album. LMK if that works for you guys or not. It would not post the photos individually.
 
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WildChild80

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Loose nipple is very common and if it's bad enough it may give you some wonky times with the turbo.

There are many how to threads on making the JB weld collar to seal it and I've never heard anyone say that it has failed even after years

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Mehrl38

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Loose nipple is very common and if it's bad enough it may give you some wonky times with the turbo.
There are many how to threads on making the JB weld collar to seal it and I've never heard anyone say that it has failed even after years
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I just saw some posts on the DIY with JB weld and what a great idea for that but I do not think that would be my issue since the oil/gum is on the front side of the pump and not on the rear side where the nipple is...I assume there is a seal/o-ring behind the vacuum pump?
 

Mehrl38

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I take that back....just went out and checked the nipple, she is loose for sure. Got a lot of wobble. Will pull that off tomorrow and do the old JB weld trick!
 

Genesis

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A badly leaking vacuum system will also result in more air out of the PCV system (since the vacuum pump "exhausts" into the valve cover) -- maybe enough to materially increase oil consumption and fouling. Oh, and by the way, that air is basically unfiltered too (which isn't a good thing in volume.)
 

Mehrl38

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Fixed the nipple on the vacuum pump as well as replaced the seal. Still the same issue. Would the N75 make sense?
 

wonneber

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Fixed the nipple on the vacuum pump as well as replaced the seal. Still the same issue. Would the N75 make sense?
Without running a boost log it would be a guess.
It gets expensive really fast playing guess what part. (been there, done that)

There's a list here of users with VCDS in what area that are willing to help. Sorry, don't know exactly where. :(

If you take the actuator off the turbo you can check it for rust (VW bulletin about it), check if it holds vacuum, and work the arm going into the turbo to see if it moves free the full range of motion.
I've read sometimes you can work the arm back & forth for about 5 minutes (or so) and free it up.

When you put the actuator back in tie a piece of thread or dental floss to the clip so if it flies while trying to get it back on it's easier to find. :)
 

Mehrl38

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Without running a boost log it would be a guess.
It gets expensive really fast playing guess what part. (been there, done that)
There's a list here of users with VCDS in what area that are willing to help. Sorry, don't know exactly where. :(
If you take the actuator off the turbo you can check it for rust (VW bulletin about it), check if it holds vacuum, and work the arm going into the turbo to see if it moves free the full range of motion.
I've read sometimes you can work the arm back & forth for about 5 minutes (or so) and free it up.
When you put the actuator back in tie a piece of thread or dental floss to the clip so if it flies while trying to get it back on it's easier to find. :)
wonneber,

I have already done a vacuum test on the turbo actuator and it worked properly, I was hoping that would have been the issue, easy fix, but my luck doesn't work that way lol There are two other MK4 TDI's in the family so I think I am going to pop an N75 off of theirs and plug it into mine to see if that is the issue next. Free that way :p
 

Mehrl38

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swapped an N75 off another tdi and still the same issue...
 

Mehrl38

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https://pix.sfly.com/RxzT7u

Okay so form the looks of this, has to be the turbo going out. stuck my finger up in there and got oil on my finger. I know, or think so, that there will be oil in there for the impeller to ride on but I don't think there should be this much. Also have oil in the bottom of the intercooler. Do not notice it burning the oil off though.
 

Mehrl38

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Apparently not much in the intercooler. The old man said there was and now he said there isn't, I did not see. To short when it is on the lift lol I am going to remove the turbo, check the wiggle of the impeller and clean it up because I have a feeling that the vanes are gummed up with carbon. Also going to replace all of the vacuum lines as well. She has 274K miles on her and 95% of the original lines on her. I noticed 2 were replaced before. Peace of mind too if it has all new lines and I can cross that off the list.
 
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