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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > VW TDI Discussion Areas > Upgrades (non TDI Engine related)

Upgrades (non TDI Engine related) The place of handling, lighting and other upgrades that do not relate to the performance or economy of the TDI engine. In other words upgrades to your TDI that don't fit into TDI Fuel Economy & TDI Engine Enhancements.Please note the Performance Disclaimer

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Old September 22nd, 2006, 08:25   #31
alphaseinor
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Denton, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fortuna Wolf
uh, I hope that thou knowest how to drive manual
Woops... forgot something...

Actually, I do... I have even gotten in on some "hot heel and toe action" in a previous line of work... Rally... I think I might have even driven a car with a 9lb flywheel on a turbo buick...

Last edited by alphaseinor; September 22nd, 2006 at 09:01.
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Old September 24th, 2006, 15:12   #32
alphaseinor
 
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Okay so my camera is still in the garage. This is really interesting, there was, according to the dealer, no other damage to the transmission... well there is a hole in the side, big enough to put a dime through... only the CV would have been able to do that damage... man I hate incompetence... It's not the freaking price, it's that the job wasn't done right, the first time or on time...

<<<AT THIS POINT THE AXELS LOOK TOTALLY DIFFERENT>>>

Back to the decription of what to do next...

Remove the intercooler tubing between the turbo and the intecooler, including the thing that is bolted on the chassis...

Unbolt the exhaust from the turbo and set aside.

Move the axels off of the spindles.

Put a jack under the engine. and a large box under the transmission.

Unbolt the two stretch bolts from the top of the transmission mount (the ones that hold the mount to the transmission.

Unbolt the last two bolts from the top of the transmission.

Now at this point, I dropped the engine slowly, and just kept going until the trans would clear the subframe. then pryed the puppy off onto the box (which just kinda softens the blow of the transmission falling... you can use a transmission jack if you want...).

Then you will probably need an impact wrench to remove the bolts on the "flywheel", which is just three thin peices of metal. remove the "flywheel" and the tin from the engine.

Install the manual transmission tin. The flywheel (I impacted with an electric impact wrench), the clutch (I hope you have an alignment tool, and then the pressure plate, which uses a 9mm 12 point socket.

Now the fun part... installing the transmission... unfortunately, I haven't gotten mine in just yet... it's a pain in the butt. I'll update this with photos and more details later.

Last edited by alphaseinor; September 24th, 2006 at 15:14.
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Old September 25th, 2006, 17:47   #33
alphaseinor
 
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Kindof a sidestep, I decided just today to get a RC Euro Stage 2... soo... You will still need to remove the TCU from underneith the windsheild. remove the connector by pulling on the tab towards the drivers side. then remove the connector. remove the two nuts holding the TCU bracket on the studs, lift the front of the TCU and then pull it to the front of the car, then it should pull out. I ended up removing the air filter housing for the incoming air to make this easier. After you have pulled this out, then just three screws, and put the bracket back in. you can plainly see the wiring harness, and I guess I'll just work on that tonight... unless I feel like putting the transmission in...
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Old September 25th, 2006, 23:35   #34
alphaseinor
 
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Okay I installed the transmission. the four starter bolts will come in handy...

<<<The Automatic and Manual Axels/CVs are ***NOT*** the same>>>

Remove the axels... I will write up a little later, when I do the reverse... This will help with putting in the transmission greatly, at least do the drivers side...

I removed my pendulum mount from the transmission to facilitate quicker installation.

First get the transmission where it is aligned with the transmission, jack it up (I suppose you can use a transmission jack... I used a floor jack because of space) or use a cherry picker. Then put the starter bolt into one of the corrisponding top holes. then put one on the rear bolt hole that goes from the engine and threads into the transmission. try to get the engine and transmission together, if you are LUCKY like me, the clutch was perfectly aligned, and it will go together with almost no effort, other than clearing everything... Watch for the rear area where the differential is... and where the pendulum mount used to be... also look out for the power steering lines, and A/C lines. If you are not lucky, you will have to turn the engine a little to get the clutch aligned with the splines (you did align the clutch with the tool didn't you???)

Anyways start the bolts when it's together, and put the mount back on.

There's where I am at this time... more later
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Old September 25th, 2006, 23:53   #35
Fortuna Wolf
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Excellent. Nearing completion!
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Old September 26th, 2006, 10:10   #36
alphaseinor
 
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I put the mount back on, and then raised the transmission up to join it with the rest of the mount, you did remember to put new bolts in didn't you?

I then put the turbo downpipe back on, and then connected the bottom part of the pendulum mount (the torsional supporter thingie)

I connected the hydraulic lines to the slave cylinder, make sure you have the metal clip to keep the line on the cylinder. Clip the reservoir where the clutch feed line is, and work quickly to put the clutch line on, you will not need a spring clip or a screw clamp, it'll just slide on. you will need two people to bleed the brakes. first open the valve and have someone push the clutch to the floor, then close the valve, have them lift the clutch until all of the air is out of the system. repeat until all of the air is out of the system, then have them press down on the clutch pedal while you open the valve, and just open it, bleed a bit and close it quickly... that will get the last of the air out. test the clutch by pressing on it, it should <!!SHOCK!!> feel like a clutch!

Removal of the axles:
remove the wheel, the remove the nut on the axle. I used a 30mm 12 point socket to remove the nut. then I just hit the end with a mallet. worked fine. came out with three good hits (but then again mine have been in for only 450 miles). Installation is reverse of removal. BTW an impact wrench will help here.

I get to put in the new axles next... then all of the bolts then the starter, then torque, then connect everything, and wire the puppy up! Then I get to start checking everything... and figure out if I've done it right...

Last edited by alphaseinor; September 26th, 2006 at 21:18.
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Old October 2nd, 2006, 23:04   #37
alphaseinor
 
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Well I got back at it tonight... After yet another dealer screwup...

All axles are in!!! all nuts are tight... even if a few screws are loose...

The starter from the manual transmission ***IS*** different... you can now sell the automatic one on ebay...

The wiring harness will need to be stripped, spliced, and whatnot... you will only need to use two wires for the reverse lights, but you may have to re-order the wires on the VSS harness... but more on that later... I still need to get this bad boy on the ground...

***Mental note, I still need to put in three new bolts on the lower control arm because they were stripped... after vw gets me the retainer part***


Now nappie time... zzzz ZZZZ zzzz
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Old October 3rd, 2006, 05:21   #38
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thanks for this excellent writeup!
this should be added to the how to thread.
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Old October 3rd, 2006, 05:43   #39
owr084
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alphaseinor
All axles are in!!! all nuts are tight... even if a few screws are loose...
Boy, that comment can be interpreted in sooooo many ways...
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Old October 3rd, 2006, 09:42   #40
alphaseinor
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by owr084
Boy, that comment can be interpreted in sooooo many ways...
quadruple entendre?
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Old October 4th, 2006, 15:39   #41
chromeBuddha
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Looking at the hole pattern on the flywheel, it looks asymetric to me...with reference to what we talked about while pulling bulldogger's head...NICHT ENTENDRE!

Let me know if any extra hands are needed, though it seems you have completed all the heavy stuff. Whew, that's a relief...
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Old October 5th, 2006, 13:18   #42
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Quadruple entendres? Pulling heads? Extra hands?

*sound of mind shattering*

I NEED SOME BRAIN BLEACH!

Mike
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Old October 5th, 2006, 16:51   #43
alphaseinor
 
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I went into work and told my boss that I helped a guy in Arlington pull his head off... he gave me the "What country are you from?" look and said "I don't even want to know". I guess next time I should rephrase it...
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Old October 6th, 2006, 16:26   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alphaseinor
I went into work and told my boss that I helped a guy in Arlington pull his head off... he gave me the "What country are you from?" look and said "I don't even want to know". I guess next time I should rephrase it...
BWAHAHAHAHAHA!
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Old October 9th, 2006, 15:08   #45
alphaseinor
 
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Well I opted for a dieselgeek short shifter... Is it legal to go this far before even getting your temp tags??? So far I have swapped the ECU, Transmission, Nozzles, and now a short shifter... and I haven't even registered it in my name yet... I guess I'll do that tomorrow morning...

I pulled out all of the wiring harness for the transmission, I have the pinouts for where everything goes, which i'll post here since it's part of the howto, I am going to figure out the reverse lights and the neutral safey switch/relay thingie sometime this week, but for the most part it's all done...

I broke the alignment pin on the transmission, and now it's stuck in the 1-2 gate, unless you jiggle it out into the 3-4-5 gates. I'll get that figured out as well sometime this week...
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