Hitch consensus...

So, with so many different threads, questions, and needs being asked to be met/answered, what is the final consensus on which hitch is the best for towing a maximum load? I feel like the Curt hitch (http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Volkswagen/City+Golf/2008/C11066.html?vehicleid=2008203644) may be better(?) because it has 7 drill points compared to the DrawTite (http://www.etrailer.com/hitch-2000_Volkswagen_Golf.htm?style=&furl=-pm-Draw~Tite) which has 5. Both utilize the tow loop. So, what is your experience and what is the heaviest loads you've pulled with either of these installed to your 99.5-2005 TDI's....?

FYI: I ask because I plan on puling a 2000 lb. trailer and keeping the tongue weight less than 200 lbs, and being a SMART driver and driving no more than 55 MPH Max. Also, my trailer has electric brakes. And I plan on lifting the *ss up an inch or two the cheapest way possible. But I guess that's another thread, lol.

Thanks guys!!

Well I'm not sure if there is a consensus although I believe the best hitch is probably the Bosal hitch (also called the eurohitch I believe).

However, I have the Curt hitch and I love it. Significantly cheaper than the Bosal hitch. I haven't TOWED anything with it but I routinely use it with a hitch carrier to haul stuff around and have had 400lb+ on the tongue for 6+ hour drives with no problems. I've had it a little over a year and just checked all the bolts and connections for the first time last week and everything is still rock solid.

Curt gets my vote.

I just got the Bosal trailer and it's fantastic. Rock solid an doesn't lower the car a bit. Rated for 3306lbs of towing! the spare tire foam insert is pre-molded to accept the detachable towbar.

Bosal also now sells a US-sized 2" receiver adapter to fit this too!!

http://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Accessories/Bosal/BSL043964.html

I haven't notice any consensus. I read all I could find and decided the US hitches are a compromise and require drilling holes in my beautiful car. The euro hitches are crazy expensive. So expensive that it's cheaper to build my own custom hitch. So that's what I'm doing.

The Bosal (Euro-type) hitch is fantastic, and far superior than the others. And here's why:

A: it is actually designed for the car, the holes are all already there, Volkswagen made the car to use this type of hitch.

B: it requires essentially NO modifications, just a very minor trim to the bottom of the bumper cover. You can remove it later on and you'll never even know it was there.

C: it is very strong, rated for the actual maximum of the car, about 3300 pounds.

D: the removal part comes out in such a way that once it is slid out, you cannot even tell the car has a hitch, no ugly steel bar hanging down, nothing.

E: the quality is top notch, this isn't something that was welded together in some shop by a guy named Bubba. It actually looks like a genuine VW accessory, because that is what it is... it is even in ETKA.

F: it is also designed to not compromise the safety of the car, since it actually attaches at the same place the inner bumper structure would attach, not sheetmetal in the spare tire well or on the tow hook.


The only downside? It has a metric ball, which is close enough to 2 inches as to not be much of an issue, but you'll find in order for a 2 inch hitch to fit correctly you'll want to put a couple coats of a strong epoxy-type paint on the ball to make it tighter, and even that will require a redo every so often. I have also investigated a process where molten metal is sprayed on to the ball, to increase its diameter slightly, but that involves baking the whole piece, which would damage the lock mechanism's non-metal bits.

I just got the 2" Bosal receiver in today--the build quality is top notch. Bosal's sticker on it rates this for 500lbs tongue weight and 5000lbs trailer weight.

Like I said, Bosal is probably the best but its like comparing a Ferrari to an Corvette. Ya it's better...but is it three times better? Maybe haha.

Still, if you're on a budget, I don't think the Curt will rip your car apart or cause anything shatter and explode. ::knocks on wood::

oilhammer said:

The only downside? It has a metric ball, which is close enough to 2 inches as to not be much of an issue, but you'll find in order for a 2 inch hitch to fit correctly you'll want to put a couple coats of a strong epoxy-type paint on the ball to make it tighter, and even that will require a redo every so often. I have also investigated a process where molten metal is sprayed on to the ball, to increase its diameter slightly, but that involves baking the whole piece, which would damage the lock mechanism's non-metal bits.

Click to expand...

Or you can just adjust the clamping nut on the coupler for better purchase on the Bosal 50mm (1.968") ball.

And that cargo carrier or bike rack attaches to the bosal hitch in what manner?

Or the 1 7/8 inch hitch size on that boat trailer? Ya have to re-configure your trailer tongue?

The bosal may be "better", but maybe not as versatile depending on your application(s).

Rxfire said:

And that cargo carrier or bike rack attaches to the bosal hitch in what manner?

Or the 1 7/8 inch hitch size on that boat trailer? Ya have to re-configure your trailer tongue?

The bosal may be "better", but maybe not as versatile depending on your application(s).

Click to expand...

With this: http://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Accessories/Bosal/BSL043964.html

romad said:

With this: http://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Accessories/Bosal/BSL043964.html

Click to expand...

So what is the total price to have a receiver hitch? $600?

Or less. One person here was able to order a Westphalia hitch from Europe for much less than the Bosal; don't know if the etrailer receiver mount will fit though.

So the adapter in Post #10 is the same price as a Curt/Da'Lan/Uhaul/etc hitch itself?

wow on the price for the adapter. Adapter plus Bosal hitch price? Close to $1000?

And most bike racks are 1.25 inch receiver size, so add another $25-35 for that adapter to fit in the adapter...

OK, if I was hauling a huge trailer, maybe...

Rxfire said:

So the adapter in Post #10 is the same price as a Curt/Da'Lan/Uhaul/etc hitch itself?

wow on the price for the adapter. Adapter plus Bosal hitch price? Close to $1000?

And most bike racks are 1.25 inch receiver size, so add another $25-35 for that adapter to fit in the adapter...

OK, if I was hauling a huge trailer, maybe...

Click to expand...

1. You don't have to drill holes in sheet metal; the Bosal uses holes already in place in "frame" tube. Plus you don't run the risk of hitch tearing out the sheet metal.

2. No, closer to half that.

3. Mere pocket change.

I understand the better design of the Bosal hitch, and was leery of the Curt/Da'Lan/Uhaul/etc hitch, and the way the driver's side attaches with bolts thru the spare tire pan, before I used them.

But they have been surprisingly strong despite my towing all kinds of heavy stuff on trailers, and using the cargo carrier with deer carcasses and full ice chests.

Has anyone witnessed a failure of the Curt/Da'Lan/Uhaul/etc hitches when in use, either with the recommended tongue weight/load weight, or even exceeding those limits?

I have this one... http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Volkswagen/Jetta/2004/24748.html?vehicleid=20046386

It goes up over the left subframe rail above the muffler..

I routinely pull 2000-3000lbs and nothing has ever deformed.. I don't usually count towing cars with the tow Dolly since theres virtually no tongue weight, but I've towed 4000lb cars...

Also, the ball on the swan neck hitch is too high for my motorcycle trailer by about 2".. I would have to re-engineer my trailer to sit level..


Another thing to think of depending on where you are is DOT.. If I'm towing a car that's not mine with a dolly, I have to pull off at DOT stops.. Most of the time they will just wave you through without stopping, but I've been stopped and questioned about the hitch and whatnot.. All of the Euro style hitches aren't DOT approved so you could run into issues with using a non DOT hitch..

Rxfire said:

Has anyone witnessed a failure of the Curt/Da'Lan/Uhaul/etc hitches when in use, either with the recommended tongue weight/load weight, or even exceeding those limits?

Click to expand...

Yes. Torn sheet metal, leaky spare tire pans. And it is very difficult to fix properly. I had an Audi 5000 I had to repair from that, it sucked. Mainly because it got a MINOR bump from behind, and totally tooefed the car's body, because the bumper design was rendered useless by the hitch.

Ouch. I can see that damage happening due to the design "around" the bumper system

I am going out to remove the ball and shaft from the car(s) right now. I sometimes leave them on the car out of laziness, but can see how that could bite me in the ass now.

TDIJetta99 said:

I have this one... http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Volkswagen/Jetta/2004/24748.html?vehicleid=20046386

It goes up over the left subframe rail above the muffler..

I routinely pull 2000-3000lbs and nothing has ever deformed.. I don't usually count towing cars with the tow Dolly since theres virtually no tongue weight, but I've towed 4000lb cars...

Also, the ball on the swan neck hitch is too high for my motorcycle trailer by about 2".. I would have to re-engineer my trailer to sit level..


Another thing to think of depending on where you are is DOT.. If I'm towing a car that's not mine with a dolly, I have to pull off at DOT stops.. Most of the time they will just wave you through without stopping, but I've been stopped and questioned about the hitch and whatnot.. All of the Euro style hitches aren't DOT approved so you could run into issues with using a non DOT hitch..

Click to expand...

Personally I would rather have a hitch rated at 3200 lbs not DOT approved pulling 3200 lbs (or less) then a DOT approved 2000 lb rated hitch pulling 3,000- 4,000 lbs any day! IMHO

TDIJetta99 said:

Also, the ball on the swan neck hitch is too high for my motorcycle trailer by about 2".. I would have to re-engineer my trailer to sit level..

Click to expand...

Or you could use this:
http://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Accessories/Bosal/BSL043964.html

TDIDSG4ME said:

Personally I would rather have a hitch rated at 3200 lbs not DOT approved pulling 3200 lbs (or less) then a DOT approved 2000 lb rated hitch pulling 3,000- 4,000 lbs any day! IMHO

Click to expand...

Doesn't matter what you would rather do... They won't weigh a car when you get stopped on the interstate, but they absolutely will have a problem with a non DOT hitch..

romad said:

Or you could use this:
http://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Accessories/Bosal/BSL043964.html

Click to expand...

Ya.. that costs more than my entire hitch setup.. The Bosal hitch and that adapter will run between 500-600.. That'll buy a lot of heavy duty stel for me to build my own hitch, and take my family out for a really nice dinner, a movie, and have enough money left over to buy a nice waterproof car cover

Well, like I said in a similar thread, not everyone here is a welder and can make their own. When you weld up your own, you usually just count the materials cost. Factor in your time starting when you first start designing and end when you have the vehicle completely reassembled. Even if you use a $10/hr minimum wage, the total cost will probably surprise you.

I'm sure I could do it ALL in one day... The only thing that would toss a wrench in the works is that there's absolutely nowhere local to get the 2" female square for the hitch, so I'd have to get it online and wait for it..

Besides, my hitch works fine.. I have no good reason to do anything different.. In fact, I might just order another of the same one because mine is showing some structural related rust that I'm not too happy about.. That and the receiver has been stuck in there for a few years..

TDIJetta99 said:

I'm sure I could do it ALL in one day... The only thing that would toss a wrench in the works is that there's absolutely nowhere local to get the 2" female square for the hitch, so I'd have to get it online and wait for it..

Besides, my hitch works fine.. I have no good reason to do anything different.. In fact, I might just order another of the same one because mine is showing some structural related rust that I'm not too happy about.. That and the receiver has been stuck in there for a few years..

Click to expand...

And where would you get a homemade hitch DOT approved?

you don't.. That's why mine is DOT approved, bought from a retail store, and bolted to my car..

TDIJetta99 said:

you don't.. That's why mine is DOT approved, bought from a retail store, and bolted to my car..

Click to expand...

I have researched a few and I can see they are quality products at a much better price, too bad they aren't rated higher than 2000 lbs. They could probably easily handle 3500 like the Euro and I person could buy locally and support local business.

Up here in Canada if they saw a 3000 lb plus trailer with a Class 1 2000 lb hitch, you would have big problems. I just can't believe there aren't more options. Another thing bad about the Euro hitch is that you have to buy the adapter if you want to use a load levelling/sway control.