Trailer Hitches Prices Going DOWN

sandmansans · Sep 14, 2016

gmcjetpilot said:
Yep PF Jones UK just send some timely emails about billing and a short shipping delay,
and then a few days later followed up with shipping notice on my hitch and electrics order ... Great communication.

Two questions folks;

1) What about tow chain attachment?

2) Still not clear on the cutting of the bumper cover. I assume you cut careful
and try and salvage the removed part to make the cover, or is there a prefab
(and painted) cover you can buy? Seems I am reading both.

Hey so for starters
1. Tow chain attachment. You can either have chain hooks welded on or wrap braided metal and hook it onto that.
2. You're correct.
When you remove the bumper cover you will see a faint outline of a cut out. With a utility lade, carefully score the lines. Be patient while doing this. I was not patient and I boogered the cut out rendering it useless. Not the end of the world as you can't see the cut out on the jetta. Or you can order a blank cut out that comes with retention clips after you've made your opening.

gmcjetpilot said:
Yep PF Jones UK just send some timely emails about billing and a short shipping delay,
and then a few days later followed up with shipping notice on my hitch and electrics order ... Great communication.

Two questions folks;

1) What about tow chain attachment?

2) Still not clear on the cutting of the bumper cover. I assume you cut careful
and try and salvage the removed part to make the cover, or is there a prefab
(and painted) cover you can buy? Seems I am reading both.

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gmcjetpilot · Sep 15, 2016

sandmansans said:
Hey so for starters

Thanks again you the hitch guru.... appreciate it.

sandmansans · Sep 15, 2016

gmcjetpilot said:
Thanks again you the hitch guru.... appreciate it.

Anytime!

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gmcjetpilot · Sep 16, 2016

sandmansans said:
This is the harness I made. Most of my towing is with 4 flat but I can easily change this to 7 if needed. The loom can be purchased at any autopart for like 5 bucks. And the adapter I've already posted in thr thread.

When going from the 13 to the 4 it looks Like I need to combine the TURN and Brake with one of those adapters.... This looks like you did not use an adapter, so the brake and turns are connected to the same bulb.... I am likely to buy one of those small adapters, only $15

sandmansans · Sep 16, 2016

gmcjetpilot said:
When going from the 13 to the 4 it looks Like I need to combine the TURN and Brake with one of those adapters.... This looks like you did not use an adapter, so the brake and turns are connected to the same bulb.... I am likely to buy one of those small adapters, only $15

The adapter that I referenced was the 13 pin male uk plug. You run your wiring direct to that. I'll take more pictures of it tomorrow.

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gmcjetpilot · Sep 17, 2016

sandmansans said:
The adapter that I referenced was the 13 pin male uk plug. You run your wiring direct to that. I'll take more pictures of it tomorrow.

I am pretty good with wiring. I just don't want to run brake and turn to the same bulb. See adapters below....
Can't hurt. It must have diodes in it to keep the brakes or turn from back driving other circuit.

https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Hopkins/HM48915.html
https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-48915-Tail-Light-Converter/dp/B0002Q81XA

https://www.etrailer.com/static/images/pics/H/M/HM48915_4_1000.jpg

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51LkkG8Wt-L._SY450_.jpg

It is fine to run 2 running lights off one wire. However having turn and brake terminating
at same bulb gives me some concern, with this fancy electronic Canbus adapter...
May be the VW adapter has the ability to tolerate this?

Typo in picture should be 7 or 5 for running light.

sandmansans · Sep 17, 2016

gmcjetpilot said:
I am pretty good with wiring. I just don't want to run brake and turn to the same bulb. See adapters below....
Can't hurt. It must have diodes in it to keep the brakes or turn from back driving other circuit.

https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Hopkins/HM48915.html
https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-48915-Tail-Light-Converter/dp/B0002Q81XA

https://www.etrailer.com/static/images/pics/H/M/HM48915_4_1000.jpg

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51LkkG8Wt-L._SY450_.jpg

It is fine to run 2 running lights off one wire. However having turn and brake terminating
at same bulb gives me some concern, with this fancy electronic Canbus adapter...
May be the VW adapter has the ability to tolerate this?

Typo in picture should be 7 or 5 for running light.

4 flat trailers have the brake and turn signals combined. It would be in a 7 pin set up that you would see the turn signals separate from the brake light.

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sandmansans · Sep 17, 2016

sandmansans said:
4 flat trailers have the brake and turn signals combined. It would be in a 7 pin set up that you would see the turn signals separate from the brake light.

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The canbus and bcm handle it just fine. All of my trailering has been with 4 flat connection and haven't had issues. It's the 7 way wiring that has wiring separate for turn signals. Also has feed for electric brakes. You don't get brakes with 4 flat.

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sandmansans · Sep 17, 2016

sandmansans said:
False, you can make your own 13 to 4 or 7 system plug as I have and others.

Buy this adapter
https://www.amazon.com/docooler-Trailer-13-Pole-Connector-Caravan/dp/B00S97S56C
And then buy either a 4 flat or 7 and wire it in accordance to this diagram

Connect to pin 1, 3, 4 and 5 for a 4 flat.

It's that easy

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This is how the flat is connected to my 13 pin uk male adapter.
Pins 1,3,4,5 for the 4 flat.

Here's the lettering on the loom corresponding with the colors and pins.

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gmcjetpilot · Sep 17, 2016

OK I will stop worrying.... All this depends on how the trailer is wired more than the car....

However brake lights are combined on all USA trailers up to 7 terminal according to this.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trailer_connectors_in_North_America

https://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx

Then you want to get really frustrated.... is all the ISO standards.

sandmansans · Sep 17, 2016

gmcjetpilot said:
OK I will stop worrying.... All this depends on how the trailer is wired more than the car....

However brake lights are combined on all USA trailers up to 7 terminal according to this.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trailer_connectors_in_North_America

https://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx

Then you want to get really frustrated.... is all the ISO standards.

Yes that is correct. I was trying to go off of memory but it's been a while since I've seen a 7 wire trailer. But now thinking of it ans confirmed by your link that's correct.

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sandmansans · Sep 17, 2016

gmcjetpilot said:
OK I will stop worrying.... All this depends on how the trailer is wired more than the car....

However brake lights are combined on all USA trailers up to 7 terminal according to this.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trailer_connectors_in_North_America

https://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx

Then you want to get really frustrated.... is all the ISO standards.

Also, if it really bugs you. You could end up rewiring the trailer to separate the turn from the brake. The 13 pin has the proper outputs for it. But a lot of hassle for little gain.

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gmcjetpilot · Sep 18, 2016

sandmansans said:
Also, if it really bugs you. You could end up rewiring the trailer to separate the turn from the brake. The 13 pin has the proper outputs for it. But a lot of hassle for little gain.

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I am most likely at first going to rent U-hauls. They are still cheap. However renting their trucks are stupid expensive, with $0.90 per mile.

I do want my own rig. I fancy a utility/toy hauler There is a trailer maker about 4 hour drive that makes nice utilities and customs. May be a micro camper, tear drop...

No need to fight it, 3 into 2 is the common standard, nothing a few diodes won't fix. As you say the VW trailer box can handle it.

sandmansans · Sep 18, 2016

gmcjetpilot said:
I am most likely at first going to rent U-hauls. They are still cheap. However renting their trucks are stupid expensive, with $0.90 per mile.

I do want my own rig. I fancy a utility/toy hauler There is a trailer maker about 4 hour drive that makes nice utilities and customs. May be a micro camper, tear drop...

No need to fight it, 3 into 2 is the common standard, nothing a few diodes won't fix. As you say the VW trailer box can handle it.

Yea I've rented a few Uhaul trailers. Fyi they are unbelievably heavy unloaded.

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gmcjetpilot · Sep 23, 2016

Well PF Jones... Rocks... Got all my goodies.... Only problem is the VW
wiring is a little more hassle than I care for. You have to route wires to
front of car, remove panels and tap into electrical pin bocks.... Not hard,
just not "plug and play" like I had dreamed of. I knew it would not be that
easy, but I can dream. The pict-o-gram instructions for the wiring takes
some getting use to. I have to get a VW pin tool ...

Putting the hitch on looks very straight forwards.... The only tricky thing
is trimming the bumper cut out and making the door attachment. Lead
foot had a good amount of info on the hitch and cutting access door.

Jedadiah · Sep 23, 2016

I made my pin tool out of a paper clip. It worked just fine for the small number of terminals I needed to move.

If you recode your Westfalia module to NAR, it will combine the brake and turn signals for you. You shouldn't need any type of adapter. Just remove the 13 pin connector and wire up a 4 or 7. US Tiguans use the the Westfalia module and they are pre wired from the module to the trunk for a a US 7 pin, so the module can handle it. There are VW parts for everything post module, it they are pricey.

My module couldn't be coded, so I run and adapter that combines the brake and turn signals. Over the summer I considered adapting my wiring to use a Westfalia module,so I wouldn't need the adapter, but decided against it. I did, however, in my research get a pin out diagram for your module, that I could email you ( or anyone else ) if you'd like. Just PM me with your email address.

I'll use a Westfalia module on my next VW, recode it to NAR, remove the 13 pin connector, and run a US 7 way plug.

sandmansans · Sep 24, 2016

It will be an easy process don't let the wiring overwhelm you.

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gmcjetpilot · Sep 24, 2016

Jedadiah said:
I made my pin tool out of a paper clip. It worked just fine for the small number of terminals I needed to move..

Thanks Jedadiah.... good info

sandmansans said:
It will be an easy process don't let the wiring overwhelm you.

Thanks sandmansans...

I ORDERED a new "tail cover", trailer hitchdoor, VW PN: 1k9-807-397-a-gru
Got the number from a few threads in this and other forums, $42 with shipping.
This one was unpainted. Hope it is the correct one. If not I am out $42. I spend
about an hour hunting it down, assuming I can get it. I ordered it, paid. I hope
it works out. ECS tuning was a source by special order but apparently they don't
sell it anymore (reading a thread).

My initial going in plan is cut the door so carefully so I can reuse it, since it's already
painted. However I don't want to cut it right on trim line to save the door and mess
up the bumper. Typically when cutting, cut inside and file to size. It s not super critical,
not real visable being on the bottom half of the cover.

If this cover is correct, I will trim more conservatively and sacrifice the removed part.
Then you have glue in a bunch of supports on the inside of the bumper to support and
secure the door. Then to make it look factory you have to get it painted.

This simple hitch is turning out to be a real project. However having the flexibility to tow
is like adding a little truck. Frankly for occasional hauling, trailers are better than a small
pickup trucks in my opinion. You can tow enclosed trailers. Trailers are lower and often
have more area than a truck bed, with the truck inner fender humps. Also you are not
having to drive a truck for passenger car purposes, and get the better mileage, handling.

Where are the instructions to program the car... I have a ROSS TECH cable. I
heard some controversy if DIY'er can do it or it's some magic only dealers can
do? I see in the back of the electrical installation instructions some cryptic notes.
It's hard to find since it has 15 language. There is something to be said for having
one common language.

Jedadiah · Sep 24, 2016

You open up the can gateway and add the trailer address (69). Then open up that controller and use the long coding helper to change the module coding to NAR from ROW. That's it. The ABS controller will find it on its own.

When you hook a trailer up, you can use the measuring blocks in the ABS controller to check if it sees the trailer.

The only trying part of the wire install involves unlocking the fuse block. To get to it, I had to take out my gauge cluster and the entire lower left side dash trim. None was too difficult, but by that time you start the wonder how much of the car you'll have to disassemble.

Here's how to use unlock the fuse block. http://www.my-gti.com/601/addition-...olf-jetta-passat-eos-scirocco-rabbit-fuse-box

sandmansans · Sep 24, 2016

gmcjetpilot said:
Well PF Jones... Rocks... Got all my goodies.... Only problem is the VW
wiring is a little more hassle than I care for. You have to route wires to
front of car, remove panels and tap into electrical pin bocks.... Not hard,
just not "plug and play" like I had dreamed of. I knew it would not be that
easy, but I can dream. The pict-o-gram instructions for the wiring takes
some getting use to. I have to get a VW pin tool ...

Putting the hitch on looks very straight forwards.... The only tricky thing
is trimming the bumper cut out and making the door attachment. Lead
foot had a good amount of info on the hitch and cutting access door.

The install really is plug and play. The diagram is unbelievably confusing. What a headache. Just remind yourself to look only at the install for your car. That's part of what makes it confusing is that they have instructions for various vw bcm types. The install itself is pretty easy and straight forward. Most of your work will be the removal of the trim pieces to route the wiring and putting them back on.

Jedadiah said:
I made my pin tool out of a paper clip. It worked just fine for the small number of terminals I needed to move..

Great advice!

Jedadiah said:
If you recode your Westfalia module to NAR, it will combine the brake and turn signals for you. You shouldn't need any type of adapter. Just remove the 13 pin connector and wire up a 4 or 7. US Tiguans use the the Westfalia module and they are pre wired from the module to the trunk for a a US 7 pin, so the module can handle it. There are VW parts for everything post module, it they are pricey.
.

Not true. The adapter that I referred to him costs less than 10 bucks. It's not a vw or westfalia branded adapter. It's simply a male 13 pin that let's you wire in whatever else you want.
Why hack up the westfalia wiring and booger up the job? Doing it the method i suggested is very clean and allows you to retain the 13 pin system. Which btw is a pretty cool plug system. I only referred him that adapter for that purpose as you are correct, the westfalia module combines the signal when you change to NAR without the need of diodes or adapters as is needed with non-westfalia modules

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sandmansans · Sep 24, 2016

gmcjetpilot said:
Thanks Jedadiah.... good info
Thanks sandmansans...

I ORDERED a new "tail cover", trailer hitchdoor, VW PN: 1k9-807-397-a-gru
Got the number from a few threads in this and other forums, $42 with shipping.
This one was unpainted. Hope it is the correct one. If not I am out $42. I spend
about an hour hunting it down, assuming I can get it. I ordered it, paid. I hope
it works out. ECS tuning was a source by special order but apparently they don't
sell it anymore (reading a thread).

My initial going in plan is cut the door so carefully so I can reuse it, since it's already
painted. However I don't want to cut it right on trim line to save the door and mess
up the bumper. Typically when cutting, cut inside and file to size. It s not super critical,
not real visable being on the bottom half of the cover.

If this cover is correct, I will trim more conservatively and sacrifice the removed part.
Then you have glue in a bunch of supports on the inside of the bumper to support and
secure the door. Then to make it look factory you have to get it painted.

This simple hitch is turning out to be a real project. However having the flexibility to tow
is like adding a little truck. Frankly for occasional hauling, trailers are better than a small
pickup trucks in my opinion. You can tow enclosed trailers. Trailers are lower and often
have more area than a truck bed, with the truck inner fender humps. Also you are not
having to drive a truck for passenger car purposes, and get the better mileage, handling.

Where are the instructions to program the car... I have a ROSS TECH cable. I
heard some controversy if DIY'er can do it or it's some magic only dealers can
do? I see in the back of the electrical installation instructions some cryptic notes.
It's hard to find since it has 15 language. There is something to be said for having
one common language.

Lol pretty soon this will be you.
Had to tow my motorcycle and a 250 lb pallet jack to a friend's shop. Total load was roughly 2200lbs. No problems on the hour long drive. !
Btw I see that you're in Memphis. My best friend lives in Jackson and I was planning on driving down to visit in about three weeks. If in case you get stuck and can wait 3 weeks I'll be able to help you then.
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gmcjetpilot · Sep 24, 2016

sandmansans said:
Most of your work will be the removal of the trim pieces to route the wiring and putting them back on.

That is the part I don't like, plastic panels exterior or internal... I struggle with that... always a hassle.

sandmansans said:
.....It's simply a male 13 pin that let's you wire in whatever else you want.
Why hack up the westfalia wiring and booger up the job? Doing it the method i suggested is very clean and allows you to retain the 13 pin system. Which btw is a pretty cool plug system. I only referred him that adapter for that purpose as you are correct, the westfalia module combines the signal when you change to NAR without the need of diodes or adapters as is needed with non-westfalia modules

Yep bought a 13 pin plug and it was $7... I should have bought two, one for 4 pin and one for to 7 pin USA round... Anyway I think most of my tow will be 4 flat.... The adapter I bought I see I don't need. I found some info about programming. No worries there.

Jedadiah said:
You open up the can gateway and add the trailer address (69). Then open up that controller and use the long coding helper to change the module coding to NAR from ROW. That's it. The ABS controller will find it on its own.

Thanks I think I got it now...

Jedadiah said:
The only trying part of the wire install involves unlocking the fuse block. To get to it, I had to take out my gauge cluster and the entire lower left side dash trim. None was too difficult, but by that time you start the wonder how much of the car you'll have to disassemble.

Yep this is the part I don't like. I hate taking plastic trim off, never knowing exactly how it's secured and where.

Jedadiah said:
Here's how to use unlock the fuse block. [URL]http://www.my-gti.com/601/addition-of-extra-circuits-to-the-volkswagen-golf-jetta-passat-eos-scirocco-rabbit-fuse-box[/URL]

Great tip thanks,

sandmansans · Sep 25, 2016

gmcjetpilot said:
That is the part I don't like, plastic panels exterior or internal... I struggle with that... always a hassle.
Yep bought a 13 pin plug and it was $7... I should have bought two, one for 4 pin and one for to 7 pin USA round... Anyway I think most of my tow will be 4 flat....

You can use that single 13 uk and run both a 7 and 4 flat out of it.

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gmcjetpilot · Sep 25, 2016

sandmansans said:
You can use that single 13 uk and run both a 7 and 4 flat out of it.

Thanks sandmansans.... I plan on doing this project when the weather cools a tad. Weather lady promises cool weather next week. We were 96F today. Waiting for bumper door/panel....

I'll first install hitch, bumper cover Mod, route the back part of wiring, 3-4 hrs estimate. Allow 6-8 hours, my estimates are always off. ha ha.

Second session, wiring, another few hours. Cost for hitch, wiring, shipping was very reasonable. Debating welding on a second chain ring. My hitch only came with one.

sandmansans · Sep 25, 2016

gmcjetpilot said:
Thanks sandmansans.... I plan on doing this project when the weather cools a tad. Weather lady promises cool weather next week. We were 96F today. Waiting for bumper door/panel....

I'll first install hitch, bumper cover Mod, route the back part of wiring, 3-4 hrs estimate. Allow 6-8 hours, my estimates are always off. ha ha.

Second session, wiring, another few hours. Cost for hitch, wiring, shipping was very reasonable. Debating welding on a second chain ring. My hitch only came with one.

Are you talking about the swivel eyelet? If so, that's not for chains. That's where you mount the hardware for the 13 pin female.

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gmcjetpilot · Sep 26, 2016

sandmansans said:
Are you talking about the swivel eyelet? If so, that's not for chains. That's where you mount the hardware for the 13 pin female.

No got that, it is a metal oval shaped ring welded to the main socket on one side... Look at my picture above, it's clearly visible and opposite of the 13 pin electrical socket bracket that swings down.

I have seen pictures of this hitch with two rings on, one on both sides. Look at my picture above, At least they have one.

redbarron55 · Sep 27, 2016

The second ring is added to the hitch by welding.
Or at least that is how I mounted mine.
These rings are a little small for the chain hooks and hard to get to.
I added tow of the chain link adapters like this

I suppose you could put two in the one existing ring, but the second welded on gives greater reliability in the event of a separation.
Adding a breakaway switch and secondary battery might be a good thing as well. Many stated require them at some trailer weight. They are not a bad idea in any case.

gmcjetpilot · Sep 27, 2016

redbarron55 said:
The second ring is added to the hitch by welding.
Or at least that is how I mounted mine.
These rings are a little small for the chain hooks and hard to get to.
I added tow of the chain link adapters like this

I suppose you could put two in the one existing ring, but the second
welded on gives greater reliability in the event of a separation.
Adding a breakaway switch and secondary battery might be a good thing
as well. Many stated require them at some trailer weight. They are not a
bad idea in any case.

Thanks Redbaron. I have about 4-5 weeks before I install the hitch to
decide to weld on another ring. Waiting for the bumper cover/door. I like
the idea using the one ring now mounted, with two closed links attached.

I suppose two separate welded rings would be redundant and
better. However I am not worried (unless I see a trailer like mine that I
was towing pass me ...

). I look at trailers going down the road and have
seen some with zero chains connected.

sandmansans · Sep 27, 2016

gmcjetpilot said:
No got that, it is a metal oval shaped ring welded to the main socket on one side... Look at my picture above, it's clearly visible and opposite of the 13 pin electrical socket bracket that swings down.

I have seen pictures of this hitch with two rings on, one on both sides. Look at my picture above, At least they have one.

I missed it the first time. They must have added that to the newer models. Mine did not come with any.

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redbarron55 · Sep 28, 2016

As far as I know none except for some that ID parts modified have them.
I welded the second on on the left side.
I found that the adapter links made it easier to hook up the safety chains and I leave them through the rings on the hitch so they are already there when I need them.
It gets kinda tight with the chain hooks with latches that I use on my trailer.

Trailer Hitches Prices Going DOWN

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