Am I correct in my analysis - New Turbo needed?

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mikeb95

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2006
Location
Houston, TX
TDI
2006.5 TDI pkg. 2, DSG white/beige
So a little background....2006.5 TDI BRM with 235K miles on it. Had it since day one....maintained to the book. Changed DMF, cam, EGR cooler, other minor things.

So a couple of months ago, car would go into limp mode....no common reason. Turn off car, restart and fine and then at a random time....go back to limp mode. This could happen hours later or 1.5 weeks later. really odd.

So I ran a vag-com on it....something about the MAF....so I changed it. Happened again....so changed the N75 valve. And then the vacuum line.

Still does it but gives a "p0299 control range not reached".......so I'm still thinking vacuum issue. I get a MityVac and test the actuator....does NOT hold pressure at all. I know I could get an actuator but they are close to $400....should I just change out the entire turbo (with actuator) assembly? Again, 235K...all maintenance done. It is my daily driver. So is my analysis correct? $1000 for the likely culprit....let me know your thoughts.

How hard is it? seen posts about top take out but most do it from under. Thanks in advance!
 
N

N.CaTDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2010
Location
NorthBay San Francisco, CA
TDI
2005.5 Jetta
Try the zip tie fix to see if that could help. Also I have heard that people put silicon around the actuator to reseal it. Again just low cost things to try but it does sound you need a new actuator and some people change the whole thing.
 
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narongc73

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 14, 2005
Location
VA/OH
TDI
2006 Jetta TDI
Unless the turbo was abused it should last a long time. Mine is at 263k, still good. Those are not really symptoms of a bad turbo.
 
invader

invader

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2008
Location
santa cruz area, ca
TDI
2006 Jetta TDI
mikeb95 said:
So a little background....2006.5 TDI BRM with 235K miles on it. Had it since day one....maintained to the book. Changed DMF, cam, EGR cooler, other minor things.

So a couple of months ago, car would go into limp mode....no common reason. Turn off car, restart and fine and then at a random time....go back to limp mode. This could happen hours later or 1.5 weeks later. really odd.

So I ran a vag-com on it....something about the MAF....so I changed it. Happened again....so changed the N75 valve. And then the vacuum line.

Still does it but gives a "p0299 control range not reached".......so I'm still thinking vacuum issue. I get a MityVac and test the actuator....does NOT hold pressure at all. I know I could get an actuator but they are close to $400....should I just change out the entire turbo (with actuator) assembly? Again, 235K...all maintenance done. It is my daily driver. So is my analysis correct? $1000 for the likely culprit....let me know your thoughts.

How hard is it? seen posts about top take out but most do it from under. Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
I had the same issue a while back. Random limp mode. Started getting more and more regular. I think in your case you found the culprit. Your actuator needs to be able to hold vacuum. If not, it will not hold position and the computer will see it as a control problem. In my case, there was a boost leak. I would check for boost leaks if I were you as well. I fixed the boost leak and the limp mode was much less often but still happened occasionally. I adjusted the rod length and it cured the problem. Just did it by trial and error. Went one direction and it got worst. Went the other direction and it cured the problem I think shortening the rod is what did it in the end.

And if your comment about top take out is pertaining to the turbo removal, I have never removed it through the bottom. Only though the top. Its an PITA no mater how you do it.

By the way I sent you a PM about your turbo.
 
F

fredjmillard

Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2018
Location
Oxford
TDI
2006 jetta
I would pull apart the engine harness at the first clip near the starter/drivers headlight and looked for chafed wires.

also I have a spare actuator if you are interested.
 
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IndigoBlueWagon

TDIClub Enthusiast, Principal IDParts, Vendor , w/
Joined
Aug 16, 2004
Location
South of Boston
TDI
'97 Passat, '99.5 Golf, '02 Jetta Wagon, '15 GSW
Those links are for the actuator for a common rail TDI. We replace the mounting bracket on that actuator so it can be fitted on the BRM turbo. The OP wouldn't be able to mount the actuator in the links you shared on his turbo.
 
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eddieleephd

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2012
Location
Battle Ground, Wa
TDI
2002 jetta Wagon
IndigoBlueWagon said:
Those links are for the actuator for a common rail TDI. We replace the mounting bracket on that actuator so it can be fitted on the BRM turbo. The OP wouldn't be able to mount the actuator in the links you shared on his turbo.
Click to expand...
Why couldn't the OP change the bracket the same as you do? provided that the bracket presently installed is still in good condition?
Do they function differently? Am I mistaken and BorgWarner isn't the manufacturer of the installed turbo? It was the listed actuator for the vehicle when looked up...
This may belong in TDI101, however, I found it amusing, although it is a BEW https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vauQDvibD94
 
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I

IndigoBlueWagon

TDIClub Enthusiast, Principal IDParts, Vendor , w/
Joined
Aug 16, 2004
Location
South of Boston
TDI
'97 Passat, '99.5 Golf, '02 Jetta Wagon, '15 GSW
The bracket is welded onto the actuator. I don't think you'd be able to remove the bracket from the old actuator intact. Perhaps it's worth a try.

BEW turbo and actuator are completely different from the BRM.
 
E

eddieleephd

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2012
Location
Battle Ground, Wa
TDI
2002 jetta Wagon
IndigoBlueWagon said:
The bracket is welded onto the actuator. I don't think you'd be able to remove the bracket from the old actuator intact. Perhaps it's worth a try.
Click to expand...
Give me a grinder and a vice and that thing will be usable! I'm not trying to remove the bracket here, I'm removing the actuator and who cares what it ends up like.

If the actuator will actually operate the turbo providing it has the correct bracket I would easily save the $200 and pay a guy $10 to make a few welds to make it happen. Definitely something I would do to save $600-$800, Hell a $100 would be more than enough encouragement.


I am guessing the actuator will operate the OP's 2006.5 TDI BRM with 235K miles on it. provided proper bracket, am I wrong?


If the turbo is in good health, which it more than likely is, save your money and repair it! Spend the rest on a tune, or something else nice for the car if you want to spend it on the car. Winter is here what are the tires like?
Read description
https://www.idparts.com/vane-actuator-replacement-kit-a5-brm-p-3218.html
 
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