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TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines.

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Old August 9th, 2016, 20:53   #31
ToddA1
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It's been over a month since I've worked on the car. Sunday, I cut off the clamping tabs in the engine bay, shot some self etching primer, and airbrushed some single stage.




Last 2 nights were spent prepping the wiring. Working on one connector at a time, cutting all the tape off, cleaning off the tape slime and depinning any wiring that won't be needed. Haven't pulled as much as I expected so far... ABS, fog lights, corner markers, etc.

Cleaned harness gets bundled and tossed to the back once completed. Pulled wire goes to the right and is neatly bundled in case it needs to be put back in or used as a repair wire.

Found plenty of burned areas in the ignition switch harness... need to be revisit this harness.

Printed and laminated a copy of the A2 Resource. Some of the wire colors aren't accurate, but it's still very helpful.

Verifying everything against the Bentley. Wished the diagrams were as easy to read as the old Rabbit's Bentley.




My trusty VAG terminal puller has served me well for the past 5 years.




Tonight, I finally found a need for the smaller tool. Need to make one....

-Todd

Last edited by ToddA1; June 5th, 2018 at 20:15.
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Old August 14th, 2016, 20:17   #32
ToddA1
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I didn't do anything yesterday other than make a "micro" terminal puller. Used a handle from a Harbor Freight pick. Turned out so well, I decided to make another "junior". Not going to retire the OG tool... it still works fine.




It was a little cooler in the garage (only 88), so I set up shop and kept cleaning out harnesses.
Everything hanging from the bungee has been gone through.




Any reason why the seatbelt buzzer goes through the radio harness?

-Todd

Last edited by ToddA1; June 5th, 2018 at 20:16.
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Old August 21st, 2016, 14:52   #33
ToddA1
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I started thinking how I'm going to run the engine harness. Because I plan on running AC, the plenum box in the raintray needs to stay. The wiper motor and linkage consumes a decent amount of space too.

Mounting the ECU in the raintray and keeping it safe from the weather will be very difficult. I decided to mount the ECU in the car. It would be mounted at the right kick panel, where the Jetronic box would be mounted if the car were CIS.

To do this, I needed to de-pin each wire from the ECU plug, pull it through the rubber boot and thread it the opposite way through the firewall grommet. Then reconnect at the ECU.

I didn't want to cut anything, so some of the wires needed to be pulled from the fuse panel connectors, because if the factory splices. I ended up having only one connection (at the N75) fight me and it needed to be spliced.




Where the harness would normally go into the bay and branch to 2 harnesses, it now only has one branch.

Because the ECU was normally in the raintray, some of the wires for the N75, coolant glow plugs, etc are too short. They'll need to be lengthened. I haven't decided how I'm going to run these.




I also started sorting out the rear harness. My original plan was to use as much of the CE2 harness as possible and recreate the Rabbit harness. I'd only splice in the taillight and plate light connections.




Rethinking it, since I'm already splicing, it may be easiest to splice about 3' into the harness where it lays along the rocker. As long as all of the wires/sockets tone out, I should be good. Haven't made up my mind....

-Todd

Last edited by ToddA1; June 5th, 2018 at 20:16.
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Old August 28th, 2016, 16:18   #34
ToddA1
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Finished the rear harness. I decided to use more of the CE2 harness, than the the Rabbit harness. All solder joints were staggered and covered with adhesive lined shrink tube. Not sure if I want to stuff the harness into loom.

Ordered some dry vinyl tape to wrap the harness. To prevent unraveling at the ends, I used silicone self fusing tape. If I was able to pull the pins from the plug, shrink tube was used.






I decided on running the rear harness inside of the quarter, rather than in the hatch, and needed to drill an access hole. I wasn't thinking and didn't protect the outer skin... the hole saw's pilot bit poked the outer skin. Not happy....

Barely noticeable, but I made it worse with the hammer and dolly. Hopefully the PDR guy can get it out.




Decided to try and hide the lighting and engine harnesses... I'll be running them in the fender well. The fender was seam sealed where it meets the apron, so I had to work from inside.

Left fuse panel bracket was cut off (again) and I needed an angle drill for one hole. My old DeWalt batteries won't take a charge and didn't want to buy another angle drill or more batteries.






Used a 1.625" hole saw and opened it up to 45mm with a die grinder and double cut carbide burr. Harness grommets fit perfectly.






Scrap metal was welded to the cut off bracket and a bolt was welded to it. The bolt goes through an existing hole in the body bracket. The bracket is now removable, if I need to mess with the wiring.




I stopped using the retractable drop light years ago, so it became a 3 way outlet. Drop light shield was recycled into a shrink tube attachment for the heat gun.






Seems I did more planning and staring... doesn't seem like a lot of progress....

-Todd

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Old September 1st, 2016, 12:58   #35
ToddA1
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Minor progress.

A while back, I decided to run the A2 CE2 stalks. It seems the stalks with hazard are a bit harder to find since they were only out for 2(?) years.

Took a while to find one with the integral hazard switch and when I did, it was faulty. Second one I found seems decent.

Took it apart, cleaned out the old grease and corrosion and reassembled. I doubt the cruise function would have worked.






FWIW, I found an aftermarket turn stalk with hazard button on Ebay for about $25 shipped. If you have a cruise stalk, simply swap it. I could have gone this route.

I also bought a CE2 A2 headlight switch plug. Less splicing, the better....

I'm going to need to figure out the AC harness and what fans I need to run. Not sure if I want to go fixed displacement on the AC compressor.

-Todd

Last edited by ToddA1; June 5th, 2018 at 20:18.
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Old September 4th, 2016, 16:55   #36
ToddA1
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I spent the day staring and planning... I roughly hung the ECU harness in the car.

The loose wires turned to a tangled mess, when pushed through the new kick panel hole. Spent a decent while, trying to straighten them out.




I needed to get an idea how I was going to run the short wires for the coolant glow plugs, N75, etc.

I decided to place the coolant glow plug controller, N18, N75 and the in the rain tray. The wiring will enter through the existing hole for the speedometer cable.

I used scrap wire pulled from deleted harnesses and lengthened what I needed. All of the solder joints were staggered and covered in adhesive lined shrink tubing.




I estimated everything going into the rain tray would be about 32". Soldered all of the plugs into the lengthened wires then started wrapping the harness.

I was being OCD and depinning plugs to untangle the harness. Got everything as best I could, used the bends in the wiring to guide me how it was originally wrapped, then wrapped the half of the harness that would be in the car.

Everything that will be run in the fender well will need to be lengthened.

I really like this dry vinyl tape. The harness still remains very flexible, since there's no adhesive.








I wasn't thinking and ran the MAF plug into the rain tray.... Looks like I'll be unwrapping and lengthening.

The battery tray was pretty beat up and some of the spot welds failed.... pull it out. Having it out will ease making the holes for harness entry.

I'll need to fix one area, clean up some rust, then treat and spray some color in.




Not sure if the battery will be going back in this location. Thinking about some alternatives.

-Todd

Last edited by ToddA1; June 5th, 2018 at 20:19.
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Old September 8th, 2016, 14:42   #37
ToddA1
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Unwrapped and rewrapped the latest harness to change the MAF plug routing. Luckily, all I needed to lengthen was 1 wire. This plug will somehow enter the rain tray on the passenger side.

Drilled out some spot welds to remove more engine bay brackets. May as well do it now, while engine isn't installed.

Filled the divots with some weld, and fixed the damage at the battery tray. The surface rust and welds got ground down and sprayed with some self etch primer. I'll spray color, later.

Also modified the bracket to mount the ECU.






The nuts are basically spacers. The upper screws were threaded in, so the ECU was a snug, slip fit. The screws were then welded. from behind.... they became mounting posts. I'll spray glue some felt to the bracket to keep the ECU from rattling.

The bracket uses 2 screws at the door jamb to fasten to the body. I planned on using a load of 3M double sided molding tape at the rear plates to fasten to the kick panel. I didn't want screws penetrating into the fender well.

The 2 screws at the bottom are still functional. With the ECU plug installed there's roughly .25" clearance at the top.







The plates should have had 2 nuts as spacers, rather than 1. It seems to work, so I'm unsure if I'll go back and correct.

-Todd

Last edited by ToddA1; June 5th, 2018 at 20:20.
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Old September 13th, 2016, 18:15   #38
GEE-BEE
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: SO CALIF
TDI(s): 1.9 AAZ
Lightbulb Harness / Custom - Plug and Play

http://fastforward.ca/standaloneharness/

mk1 jetta
new mk1 cluster with tach/ harness plugs into gas version cluster
ahu
gtb2265 turbo
rover 300 /giles mod
mk4 pedal
maf delete
erg delete
ecu tune
a/c delete
fan wiring delete
alh computer
colt stage 2
pauter rods
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custom girdle

I wanted plug and play and there pricewas fair
german cloth tape


I sent the complete harness for headlights. euro turn and city lights with it
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Old October 30th, 2016, 13:58   #39
ToddA1
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I'd took advantage of the warm weather and pressure washed the engine and trans. I didn't get a lot of pics...

My MO is blast the grease off with a turbo tip, then scrub everything down with gas. I don't think there's a cheaper or more effective degreaser.




Pulled all of the accessories off, then blasted the block again, to get the grease that was hiding. A lot of the parts that were removed took a bath in the parts washer.

There's a lot of build up in the intake ports, so I decided to pull the head... it got disassembled. It'll get cleaned out properly. I found the end of the cam was broken...






One of the coolant glow plugs broke during removal. I was staring at it for a bit and compared it to an IDI engine glow plug. Did some research and it turns out, it's the same. Coolant glow plug is to the right.




I need to place a parts order and get the head reassembled and back on the block. I want to get the engine in the bay, so I can figure out how much I need to lengthen the engine harness.

-Todd

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Old November 1st, 2016, 18:02   #40
ToddA1
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I pulled the valve stem seals and started scraping the soot out of the intake ports. Pretty impressed with the pile that I got out. I'll follow up with the torch, then port match.






Ive been soaking the intake valves (one at a time) in a can of gas, after scraping them with a razor blade. After 24 hours, I lightly chuck the valve into a drill and spin it against a razor blade, then steel wool soaked with gas. I'll lap the valves upon reassembly.

Placed a decent sized parts order and also ordered an engine stand. It's been a while since I had a stand. They're pretty handy until you're finished your project and tripping over it.

-Todd

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Old November 1st, 2016, 18:23   #41
dieseldorf
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Todd, this is one of the finest write-ups I've seen. Truly amazing! May God give you the will power to finish up this great project !! Good luck.
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Old November 2nd, 2016, 19:46   #42
ToddA1
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That's a pretty humbling comment, with all of the great builds on here... thanks!

Tonight, the head got scrubbed down with gas, then took a bath in the parts washer. I can now touch it without getting black on me.












Any residual soot got torched out. I should have just torched it from the beginning. Came out very clean.




Surprisingly, the intake ports are pretty dead-on gasket matched. The exhaust ports are a different story. Probably wasting my time port matching.






My new trip hazard arrived today.




Need to get some long bolts and get the block mounted by the weekend.

-Todd

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Old November 5th, 2016, 16:14   #43
ToddA1
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Sealed up the head with plastic bags, Gorilla tape and butyl rope caulk. Cleaning aluminum chips and dust out of a head isn't fun.




The carbide burrs left a jeweled finish that I took down with 80 and 120 grit cartridge rolls. On the exhaust side, I probably could have left the jeweled finish.

On the intake side, I only wanted to get the heavy casting line off the sides of each port. I didn't want to disrupt the crazy swirl ramps. Likely wasted my time doing anything in these ports. I doubt I'll get anything from it.

I went into the bowl side very briefly with a 120 grit cartridge roll. There was a hard edge in each valve pocket, I wanted to soften.








I also got raped for bolts, for the engine stand. Want to get the block mounted tomorrow. I'm thinking of blasting the head and block, prior to painting.

-Todd

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Old November 6th, 2016, 07:52   #44
Steve Addy
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Nice work!

Yes, the coolant flange GP's are the same as the old late IDI GP's (or early for that matter). I figured that out years ago when I had one on the Mk3 that needed to be replaced. Bentley suggests for Mk3 they have slip connections like the main engine GP's but I've never seen any out there like that.

Your neighbors give you any odd looks with that engine sitting out at the end of the drive? Where I live now it would be frowned upon, where I lived before no one would / did ever care.

Steve
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Old November 6th, 2016, 13:41   #45
ToddA1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Addy View Post
Your neighbors give you any odd looks with that engine sitting out at the end of the drive? Where I live now it would be frowned upon, where I lived before no one would / did ever care.

My street is somewhat U shaped. Being near the end, there's very little traffic.

Other than my crazy neighbor across the street, people don't seem phased. They've seen me doing this before, and most people just wave as they drive by.

I ported the head on the lawn, next to the Rabbit. I didn't want that mess in the garage. Roughly 4 hours of die grinding and no response from the neighbors.

Took it easy today. Got the engine on the stand, as planned.




Finally finished putting some color in the engine bay. Used an airbrush, so that little bit took some time. Cleaning the airbrush is a 5 minute affair, though.






Ended the day pulling the pan and random hardware off the block. Everything got the gas treatment, then a dip in the parts washer. I've been reusing the same gas and it's pitch black, but still cleans the heavy stuff with ease.

I'll probably let it settle for a few days then run it through a paint strainer.

-Todd
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