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TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines.

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Old January 23rd, 2019, 20:16   #91
3L3M3NT
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After the 2 track days at Road Atlanta and seeing the amount of soot built up on the back of the car, I decided to look into ceramic coating my to make cleaning the car after each track day quite a bit easier. I initially thought about going with one of the "over the counter" spray solutions you do yourself. I did some research and wasn't overly impressed with what I read about most of them, so I called around and found a guy in our area that does ceramic coating.
Since we live in a tourism based area, the guy offers off season pricing compared to what he normally would charge in the spring, summer, and fall. After chatting with him about why I wanted my car coated, he came up with an option that should work great and is guaranteed for 3 years and since my car doesn't get driven in the winter or sit outside, the coating could last 4 or 5 years. :thumbup:

So if you're in the North-East Wisconsin area and wanna have your car ceramic coated with IGL products, look Christopher up. https://www.facebook.com/doorcountyautospa/
https://pinnacleautospa.net/
https://iglcoatingsusa.com/

Here are some before and after pics of my car.








Here are the after pics.










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Old January 23rd, 2019, 20:18   #92
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Old May 10th, 2019, 18:47   #93
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It's been a while since I updated my thread, but I've made some progress on the car over the past week to get the car ready for a HPDE at Road America tomorrow.

First thing that got taken care of was getting rid of the ugly yellowed headlights and to replace them with a set of LED headlights from VX Tuning. The reason I went with the LED over a set of HIDs is that on HIDs you have the rear cover protruding to accommodate for the projector and it interferes with the cold air intake on the car. Whereas the LED headlights have an almost factory like back cover.
Like so.


Here are a few other pictures of the headlights. Sadly we didn't take any pictures after the bumper was on because it took more time than we thought it would due to one of the upper bumper bolts seizing and having to be drilled out.






Then it was onto making sure the brakes were up to the task of the high speeds we'll see at Road America. As you can see from the brake pads, they wouldn't make it one lap, let alone (6) 20 minute sessions.








So I went with G-Loc brake pads. I'm going to be running their R12 up front and the R10 in the back. To help those out running the same/similar brake setup as me, the part numbers for the pads are GP460-R12 for the Racing Brake fronts and GP340-R10 for the stock rear caliper on the 04 R32.

Unfortunately no install pics, but I will comment on the poor fitment of the G-Loc brake pads. On all of the front pads the backing plate had to either be filed or a grinder taken to it to get it to fit properly. Otherwise they would have been to tight in the caliper and may not have worked 100% like they're supposed to. The backs weren't quite as bad, but some still needed filing to fit correctly in the caliper.

One thing we noticed at Road Atlanta was an oil slick running from under the car on Saturday when it rained all day. I didn't think much of it at the time with all of the soot that was stuck to the back of the car and possibility of some diesel getting spilled when filling the car up with some 5 gallon diesel jugs.

Then when we dropped the skid plate we noticed a decent amount of oil on the skid plate. My friend cleaned up the underside of the car, so we could determine where the oil was leaking from. My friend started the car and used the lift to get it up in the air, so we could inspect the underside of the car and low and behold, there was oil coming out of the return line for the turbo. Not really thinking much of it I ordered a new return line think it would bolt right up, only to realize that it was about 1/2" to long.
Sadly I didn't get any pictures showing that the factory return line was too long, but I did get a picture of the custom return line that's made from the ends of the old return line and the correct size and length of fuel line that should be able to withstand the temperature and the oil running through it. To hold everything together my friend ended up using universal CV boot clamps that he had laying around and so far so good on not having an oil leak at the return line.


If you've made this far my future plans are to tweak the Malone tune, since we had a few limp mode issues on track, probably due to the gasket that was installed incorrectly between the downpipe and turbine exit. Then down the line, it would be great to get the tubular control arms installed. I'm sure there will be other things that come up as the season goes on.
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Old May 10th, 2019, 21:05   #94
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Looking good Eric! You got all the good out of those brake pads (and maybe a little of the bad too!).

Good luck tomorrow and hope the rain holds off!
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Old May 12th, 2019, 20:01   #95
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Originally Posted by Fix_Until_Broke View Post
Looking good Eric! You got all the good out of those brake pads (and maybe a little of the bad too!).

Good luck tomorrow and hope the rain holds off!
Thanks Matt! Yeah, I definitely got the most out of those brake pads and then like you mentioned, we may have gone a little to far with the fronts, since there was a very small groove on each caliper that luckily went away at the track when the new pads got bed in.

We had a great 1st session out on the track, the car ran amazing the brakes were fully bed in around lap 3 or 4 and man did they do their job at slowing us down. With the car being mostly a track car, I went with a set of G-Loc R12s in front and a set of R10s in the rear(per the suggestion of G-Loc). It was amazing how well the pads performed once they were bed in. I sure was glad that my car is equipped with harnesses, otherwise I would have been kissing the windshield.

Sadly after we pulled off after session one we noticed a slight exhaust leak coming from the manifold. I thought that with the stage 8 hardware installed and a fresh exhaust gasket installed that the exhaust leak wouldn't rear its' ugly head, but apparently it came back to ruin my track day. We tried going out for 2 more sessions, but it only got worse with each session, so I decided it was best to call it a day and live to fight another day.

So if anyone has any suggestions on how to fix a leaking exhaust manifold, I'm all ears. I will say that I plan on taking the manifold to a machine shop to have them shave a couple thousandths off to ensure that the manifold is 100% flat and that it's not warped. I also plan on spraying the new exhaust gasket with some liquid copper gasket or try the paste that comes in a tube.

Anyway, here are some pictures from the track day and a few of my favorites from the Throttlestop that's in downtown Elkhart Lake that every car/motorcycle guy should visit if given the opportunity.











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Old May 12th, 2019, 20:02   #96
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Here are some of my favorites from Throttlestop
















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Old May 16th, 2019, 07:16   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3L3M3NT View Post
So if anyone has any suggestions on how to fix a leaking exhaust manifold, I'm all ears. I will say that I plan on taking the manifold to a machine shop to have them shave a couple thousandths off to ensure that the manifold is 100% flat and that it's not warped. I also plan on spraying the new exhaust gasket with some liquid copper gasket or try the paste that comes in a tube.
fabricated manifolds can be pretty hard to seal up

the thin tubes heat up and expand a lot faster than the thick flange, and since the flange is all connected together it'll stay one length and bow (away from the head in the center) despite what those four M8 bolts on the two center ports have to say

On mine what finally got it to stop blowing out gaskets was to give it a little curve in the opposite direction to start with by hand filing the two outside ports down slightly. Now as it heats up, it goes flat.

ETA: Thinking on it more or it might have been the other way around, when belt-sanding the flange flat it would heat up quicker and bow outwards in the center, making a low spot there. Been a few years... Either way, took some filing on the outer ports (that weren't blowing out) to get the inner gaskets to be under proper tension.

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Old May 16th, 2019, 22:21   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [486] View Post
fabricated manifolds can be pretty hard to seal up

the thin tubes heat up and expand a lot faster than the thick flange, and since the flange is all connected together it'll stay one length and bow (away from the head in the center) despite what those four M8 bolts on the two center ports have to say

On mine what finally got it to stop blowing out gaskets was to give it a little curve in the opposite direction to start with by hand filing the two outside ports down slightly. Now as it heats up, it goes flat.

ETA: Thinking on it more or it might have been the other way around, when belt-sanding the flange flat it would heat up quicker and bow outwards in the center, making a low spot there. Been a few years... Either way, took some filing on the outer ports (that weren't blowing out) to get the inner gaskets to be under proper tension.
Hmmm, that's a new one on me. Now I might have to make a post in the performance section to see what other people have or would suggest.

Thanks for the tip.
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Old June 7th, 2019, 21:32   #99
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We figured out where the exhaust leak was coming from last Sunday when my friend helped drop the engine out of the car, so we could get better access at the turbo, exhaust manifold, intake manifold, and downpipe. There's really no other way to get access to everything with how tight everything is in there with the bevel box and driveshaft for the AWD setup.

After the engine was out of the engine bay, we could see that the exhaust leak was coming from the connection between the exhaust manifold and the turbo. Apparently the idiots at Trudell Performance used the same fiber style gasket as what was used in between the cylinder head and exhaust manifold and to make matters worse the bolts weren't very tight, so as soon as the gasket blew out, the turbo could rock back and forth on the exhaust manifold.

So this time, since I can be more involved with what replacement parts are going to be used, I have a really good feeling that I won't have to deal with anymore exhaust leaks. In case anyone out there ends up finding my thread here are the new metal gaskets that I will be using.
Audi GTB2260VK Gaskets
Metal Exhaust manifold gasket --->https://www.idparts.com/vw-exhaust-m...39d-p-984.html

While the exhaust manifold was out of the car we checked the manifold flange with a straight edge and found that it was slightly warped, so I was able to find a machine shop in Green Bay that was able to machine the flange completely flat again, so this should prevent any issues with the exhaust leaking out between the cylinder head and exhaust manifold.
I then sent the exhaust manifold out to get ceramic coated to hopefully help keep underhood temp down a little bit further and maybe it will help the turbo to spool sooner, since the shop that's doing the ceramic coating does the outside and the inside of exhaust manifolds.
The turbo is getting upgraded from the original GTB2260VK to a GTB2262VKLR to have a faster spooling turbo that will flow a little bit better on the top end.

Here are some pictures of the engine pulled out of the car.










I'll try and get some more pictures along the way when we start putting things back together.
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