Windage Tray/Baffle Plate

Help me understand this thing - this is a windage tray which is designed to help catch the oil flung off the crankshaft and pistons. It is also advertised as a baffle to help prevent oil starvation during cornering.

How does this baffle work if it is installed above the oil pickup? All the pictures I have seen give me no indication that it would perform any function of acting as an oil baffle. Does it actually work?

The reason I ask is that I have gotten the oil buzzer on long, sweeping, aggressive right turns on my car and I really would prefer not to ruin my engine simply from driving aggressively. I'd like to autocross sometime for sh*ts and giggles but the dreaded oil buzzer is a bit of a deterrent. And yes, before you ask, I have proper oil pressure and the correct oil level.

The only true baffle solution I have seen is this SportTuned baffled oil pan. Does anyone have firsthand experience with this? It's a bit more than I'd prefer to spend but if it does the job then it does the job. But I'd like to try the OEM solution first.

Watch a video on youtube about it. Basically its the movie twister inside that oil pan around that crank. You can weld in your own baffles into the pan you have. I suggest adding some skid protection. Plates too on the outside.
Look up what they do for figure 8 raceing. Old school guys just weld a door hindge at the bottom of the pan on old v8s

It only acts as a windage tray. Your car should have a plastic clip on baffle, already. It does a decent job, but they also break due to age.

As mentioned you can weld baffles into your pan. I did this last summer, for one of my cars. Some sheet metal and a few bucks for a small piano hinge and I have a pan with baffles and trap doors. I’m also using the windage tray.

-Todd

The clip-on oil baffle was conspicuously missing when I last pulled my pan. I am guessing at some point it was removed by the previous owner. I am looking at part 055 115 221B, is this and the windage tray going to be sufficient to prevent oil starvation?

Welding baffles into the pan is an interesting idea but is more work than I really want to do.

Will they be better than the built pan, no. Will they be better than nothing, yes.

I’ll admit, when I built my pan, it wasn’t difficult, but it was time consuming. I had the block on an engine stand... I couldn’t imagine doing it, in the car. There was a lot of test fitting involved and I also cut a pan open to get the initial templates.

Autotech usually runs a Black Friday sale.

-Todd

Ok. I’ll try the OEM parts first and if it’s not enough I’ll spring for the baffled pan. What I’m unclear on now is whether the SportTuned pan replaces or interferes with the OEM windage tray. In essence I am not sure if I can run both at the same time.

I’d guess it replaces. Call and confirm.

-Todd

so, lets go back to your issue.
you have an oil light that comes on when you go around a long sweeping corner???
define this.
I do autocross (did, now i'm working on the swap) and never had issues, nore do others, even at track cross.
I don't think you have to go nuts adding so much to a daily driver. (if you have this issues when daily driving off that long sweeping ramp!)
you still need to pull the pan down. chances are the OEM one has finally let go. replacing it (if its bad) will solve your issues.
its not common that modifying an engine fixes a problem, you need to fix the issue before modifying.
So please define how radical of a turn your taking when this happens please.

Mongler98 said:

so, lets go back to your issue.
you have an oil light that comes on when you go around a long sweeping corner???
define this.
I do autocross (did, now i'm working on the swap) and never had issues, nore do others, even at track cross.
I don't think you have to go nuts adding so much to a daily driver. (if you have this issues when daily driving off that long sweeping ramp!)
you still need to pull the pan down. chances are the OEM one has finally let go. replacing it (if its bad) will solve your issues.
its not common that modifying an engine fixes a problem, you need to fix the issue before modifying.
So please define how radical of a turn your taking when this happens please.

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Yes, so let me explain myself. I've done a little trial and error. In the case when I am going up an incline and aggressively power through a right-hand corner that lasts more than about 5-6 seconds, I will usually get the oil buzzer. It immediately stops if I level back out. The buzzer doesn't doesn't sound on left turns, and I have found that it is more likely to buzz when the oil level is low. I don't get the buzzer under any other scenarios than hard, extended right turns, so I am positive that it is related to oil sloshing around away from the pickup.

I will be removing the pan for a clutch job and rear main seal install in the coming weeks so that prompted me to look into some potential solutions while I'm in there.

The OEM "one" you describe, are you referring to the plastic "oil restrictor"? As I mentioned there was nothing clipped to the pickup the last time I removed my pan, so I will try installing one.

The other question I have relates to the installation of the windage tray - apparently I need to remove the oil pump to get it in place. Do I need to then re-prime the pump upon re-assembly? If I do need to prime it, what is the best way to do so? The last time I had the vacuum pump off, I didn't see anywhere to manipulate the oil pump so as to prime the system, but I have heard folks talk about using a drill to do so. I am just not exactly sure how. Could not find any videos showing how it's done on the G60 engine block.

best way to prime the oil system is to pull the fuel relay or fuse, crank it for 10 seconds. this is the proper way to start cars that have sat for more than a few months on end and definitely a year or more.

on old v8's like chevy 350's and so on, you can pull the distributor and use a shaft that is made for this with a drill, some need a special collar some don't. don't worry about it though as no 4 banger i know of has any option to prime other than dry sump engines like porsche.
yea by the sounds of your driving, that should not be happening. you might have a crack somewhere on the pickup tube, like having a crack in the straw you're sipping your drink from. when you get low enough, sucks up air. probably not, but it has happened before.

Mongler98 said:

yea by the sounds of your driving, that should not be happening. you might have a crack somewhere on the pickup tube, like having a crack in the straw you're sipping your drink from. when you get low enough, sucks up air. probably not, but it has happened before.

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You're telling me you autocrossed your AHU car with the stock configuration and never got the oil buzzer? That's pretty incredible. I can't imagine there would be significant differences in the oiling system between our cars. Maybe I have a fussy pressure switch and my oil pressure is actually fine. But I do strongly doubt there is an issue with the oil pump itself as I have had no other oil pressure related issues other than the buzzer on specific spirited, elongated turns. This is a real head scratcher.

Install the clip on baffle and see if it cures your issue.

You don’t need to prime the system. Do you prime the system after an oil change? This isn’t a fresh rebuild... there will be plenty of oil where it needs to be.

FWIW, you do not need to drop the pan to replace the clutch or rear main seal.

-Todd

Mongler98 said:

don't worry about it though as no 4 banger i know of has any option to prime other than dry sump engines like porsche.

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You must not be familiar with 8v, 4 banger VWs. The vacuum pump and distributor are driven by the oil pump. Been this way since 1975, all the way to the 1Z and AHU.... May be more.

-Todd

ToddA1 said:

Install the clip on baffle and see if it cures your issue.

You don’t need to prime the system. Do you prime the system after an oil change? This isn’t a fresh rebuild... there will be plenty of oil where it needs to be.

FWIW, you do not need to drop the pan to replace the clutch or rear main seal.

-Todd

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Thanks again Todd, I'll give it a shot.

As far as replacing the RMS, yes, it's entirely possible to change without dropping the pan, however I feel it will be easier to get the seal perfectly aligned and on square than fighting with the edge of the pan. I am a little paranoid about getting the teflon seal on right the first time.

ToddA1 said:

You must not be familiar with 8v, 4 banger VWs. The vacuum pump and distributor are driven by the oil pump. Been this way since 1975, all the way to the 1Z and AHU.... May be more.
-Todd

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The work nessasary to prime these engines just means no, there is not . But if your willing to do a annoying amount of work, there is always a way to do whatever you want.
The answere is no, there is no way to prime the pump. Because it will prime its self. But if you want a solution to a problem that does not exist, then sure, prime it however you want.

Mongler98 said:

The work nessasary to prime these engines just means no, there is not . But if your willing to do a annoying amount of work, there is always a way to do whatever you want.
The answere is no, there is no way to prime the pump. Because it will prime its self. But if you want a solution to a problem that does not exist, then sure, prime it however you want.

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Seriously....?

1. Remove the distributor or vacuum pump.
2. Spin the oil pump’s drive tang with a drill. I use the driven side of a 3/8” extension, with the male side chucked in the drill.
3. Reinstall the distributor or vacuum pump, once pressure builds.
4. Clean up.

It’s not a lot of work. The G60 engine is the same configuration.

-Todd

Pulling thebrelay and cranking does the same thing. No need to get messy. That's what I call annoying amount of work. Not that's it's difficult, but its unnessasary

Based on your previous post and what you’re saying now, it seems someone is backpedaling....

Meh.... happy thanksgiving,

-Todd

Mongler98 said:

Pulling thebrelay and cranking does the same thing. No need to get messy. That's what I call annoying amount of work. Not that's it's difficult, but its unnessasary

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Actually no, pulling the relay (or discon the IP solenoid) does not produce the same result.

If you pull the relay (for gas FI) or discon the IP solenoid on the diesel it will throw a code on OBDII cars and may trigger a CEL.

I have done this before to 'prime' an engine that has sat a long while or where the TB has been changed but I don't want to the engine to run yet.

It can also be accomplished by pulling the vacuum pump and spinning the pump driveshaft, as mentioned by Todd. The one benefit to doing it this way on the diesel is that you don't trigger a code in the ECU that later has to be cleared.

Steve

Cranking it will not cause a CEL.

Mongler98 said:

Cranking it will not cause a CEL.

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Pulling the relay will.

On an ahu it wont, never didn't not once to me. Then again this isn't an ahu or is it? The b4 is the alh? Dont it plenty of times' I drive it so infrequently that this is how I prime it's sits for yea or 2 at a time before I have to move it or something. Being parted out and what not. And back when I had issues with the 109 I never once got a cel

Mongler98 said:

On an ahu it wont, never didn't not once to me. Then again this isn't an ahu or is it? The b4 is the alh? Dont it plenty of times'

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Facewipe emoji stat!
According to the OP's signature, this is a 1Z. The B4 is also a 1Z in '96 and an AHU in '97. ALH wasn't until '99,

TDIDaveNH said:

Facewipe emoji stat!

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I just spit out my coffee in laughter!

Mongler98 said:

Cranking it will not cause a CEL.

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I said may cause a CEL, not that it would cause a CEL, but regardless, it will cause a code to be stored in the system from either pulling the relay or disconnecting the IP solenoid.

Steve

Steve Addy said:

I said may cause a CEL, not that it would cause a CEL, but regardless, it will cause a code to be stored in the system from either pulling the relay or disconnecting the IP solenoid.
Steve

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nothing like that from my experience.

Mongler98 said:

nothing like that from my experience.

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It does store a code, I believe for the shutoff solenoid but cranking with IP unplugged does not set the MIL.

For the record, per my dealer the plastic pickup clip-on baffle is no longer available from VW. I will have to revisit the baffled plate option later as it’s just not a huge priority, and for now will be running just the windage tray.

garciapiano said:

It does store a code, I believe for the shutoff solenoid but cranking with IP unplugged does not set the MIL.
For the record, per my dealer the plastic pickup clip-on baffle is no longer available from VW. I will have to revisit the baffled plate option later as it’s just not a huge priority, and for now will be running just the windage tray.

Click to expand...

Storing a code is different from setting (or triggering) a MIL. You can store codes that never trigger a MIL, seen it many times. Both of these situations mentioned above, discon of solenoid and unplugging the IP will both store codes in the ECU, but I've not had it trigger a MIL when I've unhooked the IP solenoid. I've never disconnected the IP (fully) and run the starter motor so I can't say for certain but I would bet that it will store a code.

As for the oil pump pickup tube baffle, they are usually included with new oil pumps or I bet you can find one in the aftermarket. I would not run without one, they control sloshing side to side and you can starve the engine of oil if you corner too hard and all the oil moves too far from the sump pickup.

Find a used one if you have to but get one.

Steve

I’ve purchased a new Febi pump and the clip on baffle was not included. If you meant from the dealer, that’s another story.

FWIW, there were 2 clip on baffles. I believe the later version was more like a clip on windage tray, which never made too much sense to me.

I have a couple of the early style on the shelf, if interested in one.

-Todd

I will be installing the windage tray/gasket and this part which apparently is NLA from VW dealer but available from the OES from some online stores.

The later version (large plastic half-@ass windage tray clip-on) doesn't look like it will work with the proper windage tray in place, so I will not be using that one.

I will be impressed if this simple piece of plastic will get the job done.